A ij m , e !>" A 'S M © m T t # itk , 




QU'KBKC i'rniTi POINT I ,E\'I 
Pa. U49 



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_i_'!i iCfl vy jjniiLcsv^v wmj^"^ s 



\ 



REMARKS, 



MADE 



ON A SHORT TOUR, 



BETWEEN 



HARTFORD AND aUEBEC. 



ly THE 



AUTUMN OF 1819; 



BY THE AUTHOR OP A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN ENGLAND. 
HOLLAND AND SCOTLAND 



• i 



%"••■ 



NEW-HAVEN : 

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY S. CONVERSE. 



1820. 




DISTRICT OF CONNECTICLT, #5. 

KK IT KF.MFMBFREn, That on the twelfth 
day of August, in the foriy-iifth year of the lu- 
ll) leiieiuleiice of the United States of Amcriin, 
, -___-^^^BF.NJAMiN Sii.HMAiV, of the Said District, hath de- 
'<^^'rj0i>^ posited in this OiUco the title of a book, the rigbi 
whereof he claims as Author, in the words following, to wit : — 

" Remarks, made on a short tour, between Hartford and Qiie- 
•' bee. Ml the Autumn of 1819: by the Author of a Journal of 
• Travels in England, Hollaiul and Scotland. ' 

In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, 
entitled, " An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing 
the copies of iMaps, Charts and Books, to the authors and propri- 
etors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned.' 

CHAS. A. INGEReOLL, 
Clerk of the Dhtrht of Connecticut. 

A true copy of Record, examined and sealed by me, 

CHAS. A. LNGERSOIX, 
CJe.rk of the DUtrict of Conncctieut. 






PUEFACE. 



DUlllNG the excursion, which produced this 
iiuill volaiiie, I began, with an intention of sketch- 
ing a series, of short articles, in some degree popu- 
lar and general, in their character, and still of such 
a cast, as would admit of their being thrown occa- 
sionally, into the American Journal of Science. 

Before the close of tlie journey, these remarks, 
although written hastily, in public houses, and in 
steam-boats, became too extensive for the object 
M'st intended. For reasons, with which it is, per- 
laps, unnecessary to trouble the reader, it has since 
.)een thought advisable to print them, after due re- 
vision, in the form in which they now appear. 

The geological notices, are, with few exceptions, 
placed under distinct heads, and may, without in- 
convenience, be omitted, by those to whom they 
are uninteresting. But, the geological features of a 
countr)^ being ])ermanent — being intimately con- 
nected with its scenery, with its leading interests, 
and even w^th the very character of its population, 
have a fair claim, to delineation, in the observa- 
tions of a traveller ; and this course, however un- 
usual with us, is now common in Europe. I regret, 
that my limited time did not admit of more extend- 
ed and complete observations of this nature, and I 
cannot flatter myself that they are always free from 
error. 

The historical remarks and citations have been 
the more extended, from an impression, that less 
has been said by travellers in America, than miglit. 
liave been expected, of scenes and events, wliich, 
to Americans, I conceive, must ever be subjects^ 
of the deepest interest. 



4 PREFACE. 

The friend, in whose company this tour was 
made, having been in the habit, when travelHng, of 
taking hasty outhnes of interesting portions of scene- 
ry, and of finishing them after his return, did, in this 
instance, the same ; and, although when execu- 
ted, they were not intended for pubHcation, the 
drawings, which illustrate some of the scenes in 
this work, were, at my request, furnished by him. 

The engraver, Mr. S. S. Jocelyn, of New-Haven, 
a young man of twenty, almost entirely self-taught, 
evinces talents, deserving of encouragement, and 
which have been highly spoken of, by the first his- 
torical painter in this country. 

This little accidental work does not assume the 
dignity of a book of travels ; it contains no adven- 
ture, and claims to be merely a series of remarks, 
and of statements of facts, respecting some portions 
of this country, and of a neighbouring province. 

BENJAMIN SiLLIMAN. 

Yah College, August llth, 1820. 



90i0i 



ERRATA, 

A few errata, which (although, in an uniraportont raaiiner,) ai- 
fecl the sense; and a few errors in orthography, had been noted, 
but, the rnemorandnm containing tliem, having been mislaid, at 
too advanced a stage of the printing, to allow time for a reperusal 
of the book, these things must nerep-arily go nncorrected. 

The only error of fact, which I have discovered, is, that we ar- 
rived at Burlington, on our return, ai cccning, instead o( insmiiij^j 
?! j?, however, ofna inomcnt. 



CONTENTS, 



PlllNT; 



Page. 
Quebec from Point Levi, (Vignette on title page) 

Description of this print, _ - - 249 
No. 1, Monte Video, from the south rock, (frontispiece) 

2. Approach to the house, facing page - 1() 
Description of No's 1 and 2, - - 10 

3. Lake George, from the village of Caldwell, 

(facing page) - - - - 146 

4. Lake George, from fort George, facing page 148 
Description of iNo.'s 3 and 4, - - 147 

5. Approach to Quebec from the S. W. facing pa. 210 
Description of No. 5, - - - 209 

6. Part o}' Quebec, from the wharf, facing page 214 
Description of No. G, - - - 213 

7- Falls of Montrnorenci, facing page - - 230 
Description of No. 7, - - - 228 

8. Lumber establishment at Montrnorenci, and 

bay of Quebec, facing page - - 234 
Description of No. 8, - - - 234 

9. Quebec, from the mouth of the Chaudiere, 

facing page - - - - 252 

Description of No. 9, _ - - jb. 

^ PRINCIPAL TOPICS. 

Monte \'id('u. near llnrtford ; description of its scenery, 1 

Middle region of Coimeeticut ; its scenery and geology, 17 

Primitive country : its commencement, - - 28 

Churcht-s ; zeal lor building them, - , - 30 

yVmerican liuis ; peculiarities in their manners, - 32 

(iideto Sandisficid, 3't 

Hide to Lenox, ------ 37 

Geology bctwrM n Sandisfield and Lenox, - - 3?> 



8 CONTENTS. 

Pnge. 

iSIontreal ; Geology and mineralogy of its environs, 328 

Mode of building, - - 330 

Beauty of its environs, - - 332 

Race-course, and racing, - - 333 

, Its importance, - - - 335 

JVliscellaneoiis remarks upon it, - 341 

North-West Company, - - 344 

Aborigines, - - - - 34G 

Ploughing match, - - - 348 

Agricultural dinner, - - - 349 

History, Sec. - - - - 353 

Caution to strangers in Canada, - - 356 

Peculiar mode of extracting teeth, - - 357 

Catholic worship, - - - - 358 

French language, ----- 3(32 

Population ; manners ; costume ; villages ; 

political situation, &c. - - 263 

Departure from Canada, - - - 370 

Plattsburgh bay, 374 

Anecdotes, ----- - 376 

Burlington to Hanover, - - - 380 

Geology and mineralogy from Lake Chaniplain, 386 

Hanover, - -" 387 

Dartmouth College, - - . - ib. 

Connecticut river ; ride down its banks, - 389 

Geology, - - - - 391 

Bellows Falls, 392 

Geology and mineralogy, - - - 395 

Brattlcborough, ----- 39G 

Geology. \'c. 399 

Greenfield, 401 

Deerficid, and other towns, to Hartford, - 402^ 



TOUR, ^c. 



llemarks viade^ on a short tour, between Harlford and 
Quebec p in the autumn q/'l819. 

XvELAXATION and health, and the gratification 
of a reasoiuible curiosity, were our immediate mo- 
lives, for undertaking this journey. Quebec, was 
our ultimate destination, but, we were not disposed 
to neglect interesting intervening objects, and as we 
w^ere unincumbered by business, and travelled by 
ourselves, we were masters in a good degree, of 
our own movements. 

On the twenty-first day of September, we left 
Hartford for Albany. A blustering equinoctial, had 
been howling for two «^ays, but without rain, and, 
as a severe drought had long prevailed, clouds of 
dust rose, in incessant eddies, and, driving before a 
violent w^ind, filled the atmosphere, and enveloped 
every object. We were not however prevented by 
the storm of sand and dust from setting out, nor, by 
the rain which soon followed, from proceeding. 
The fine turnpike upon which we commenced our 
journey was, but a few years since, a most rugged 
uncomfortable road ; now we passed it with ease 

2 



iO TOURBLTWEEN IlAllTl; URD AND QUEBEC. 

and rapidity, scarcely perceiving its beautiful undu- 
lations, which, gradually rising, as we receded from 
the Connecticut river, brought us, within little more 
than an hour, to the foot of Talcot mountain, 

MONTE VIDEO. 

After constantly ascending, for nearly three miles, 
we reached the highest ridge of the mountain, from 
which a steep declivity of a few rods, brought us to 
a small rude plain, terminated at a short distance, 
by the western brow, down which the same fine 
turnpike road is continued. From this plain, the 
traveller w4io wishes to visit a spot called Monte 
Video, remarkable for the extraordinary beauty of 
its natural scenery, will turn directly to the north, in- 
to an obscure road, cut through the woods, by the 
proprietor of the place to which it conducts. The 
road is rough, and the view bounded on the east, by 
the ricgo, which, in many places, rises in perpen- 
dicular ciifFs, to more than one hundred feet above 
the general surface of the summit of the mountain. 
On the west, you are so shut in by trees, that it is 
only occasionally, and for a moment, that you per- 
ceive there is a valley immediately below you. 

At the end of a mile and an half, the road ter- 
minates at a tenant's house, built in the Gothic style, 
and through agate of the same description, you en- 
ter the cultivated part of this very singular country 
residence. 

Here the scene is immediately changed. The 
trets no longer intercept your view upon the left. 



TOUR BETWEEN HAUTFORD AND Q,UEBEC.. 11 

and you look almost perpendicularly, into a valley 
of extreme beauty, and great extent, in the highest 
state of cultivation, and which although apparently 
within reach, is six hundred and forty feet below you. 
At the right, the ridge, which has, until now, been 
your boundary, and seemed an impassable barrier, 
suddenly breaks off, and disappears, but rises again 
at the distance of half a mile, in bold grey masses, 
to the height of one hundred and twenty feet, 
crowned by forest trees, above which appears a tow- 
er, of the same colour as the rocks. 

The space or hollow, caused by the absence of 
the ridge, or what may very properly be called the 
hack hone of the mountain, is occupied by a deep 
lake, of the purest water, nearly half a mile in length, 
and somewhat less than half that width. Directly 
before you, to the north, from the cottage or tenant's 
house and extending half a mile, is a scene of culti- 
vation, uninclosed, and interspersed with trees, in 
the centre of which, stands the house. The ground 
is gently undulating, bounded on the west by the 
precipice which overlooks the Farmington valley, 
and inclining gently to the east, where it is termina- 
ted by the fine margin of trees, that skirt the lake. 
After entering the gate, a broad foot-path, leaving 
the carriage road, passes off to the left, and is carri- 
ed along the western brow of the mountain, until 
passing the house, and reaching the northern ex- 
tremity of this little domain, it conducts you, almost 
imperceptibly, round to the foot of the cliffs, on 



12 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

which the Tower stands. It then gradually pass- 
es down to the north extremity of the lake, where 
it unites with other paths, at a white picturesque 
building, overshadowed with trees, standing on the 
edge of the water, commanding a view of the whole 
of it, and open on every side, during the warm 
weather, forming at that season, a dehghtful sum- 
mer house, and in the winter, being closed, it 
serves as a shelter for the boat. There is also an- 
other path which beginning at the gate, but leading 
in a contrary direction, and passing to the right, con- 
ducts you up the ridge, to what is now the summit 
of the south rock, whose top having fallen off, hes 
scattered in huge fragments, and massy ruins, around 
and below you. 

From this place you have a view of the lake, of 
the boat at anchor on its surface, gay with its stream- 
ers, and snowy awning; of the white building at the 
north extremity of the water, and, (rising immedi- 
ately above it,) of forest trees, and bold rocks, in- 
termingled with each other, and surmounted by the 
Tower. 

To the west, the lawn rises gradually from the wa- 
ter, until it reaches the portico of the house, near 
the brow of the mountain, beyond which, the west- 
ern valley is again seen. 

To the east and north, the eye wanders over the 
great valley of Connecticut river, to an almost 
boundless distance, until the scene fades away^ 
among the blue and indistinct mountains of Massa- 
chusetts. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. iJ 

The carriage road, leaving the tvvQ foot-paths, 
(just described,) at the gate, passes the cottage and its 
appendages, inclining at first down towards the wa-- 
ter, and then following the undulations of the ground, 
where the ascent is the easiest, winds gently up to 
the flat on which the house stands. Along this road 
the house, the tower, the lake, Sic. occasionally ap- 
pear and disappear, through the openings in the 
trees; in some parts of it, all these objects are shut 
from your view, and in no part is the distant view 
seen, until passing through the last group of shrub- 
bery near the house, you suddenly find yourself 
within a few yards of the brow of the mountain, and 
the valley with all its distinct minuteness, immedi- 
ately below, where every object is as perfectly visi- 
ble, as if placed upon a map. Through the whole of 
this lovely scene, which appears a perfect garden, 
the Farmington river pursues its course, sometimes 
sparkling through imbowering trees, then stretching 
in a direct line, bordered with shrubbery, blue, and 
still, like a clear canal, or bending in graceful eweeps, 
round white farm houses, or through meadows of 
the deepest green. 

Tlie view from the house towards the east, pre- 
sents nothing but the lake at the foot of the lawn, 
bounded on the north and south by lofty cliffs, and 
on the opposite shore, by a lower barrier of rocks, 
intermixed with forest trees, from amongst which, a 
road is seen to issue, passing to the south along the 
brink of the water, and although perfectly safe, ap- 



14 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

pears to form, from that quarter, a dangerous en- 
trance to this retired spot. 

Every thing in this view, is calculated to make an 
impression of the most entire sechision ; for, be- 
yond the water, and the open ground in the imme- 
diate neighbourhood of the house, rocks and forests 
alone meet the eye, and appear to separate you from 
all the rest of the world. But at the same moment 
that you are contemplating this picture of the deep- 
est solitude, you may without leaving your place, 
merely by changing your position, see through one 
of the long Gothic windows of the same room, 
which reach to a level with the turf, the glowin|| 
western valley, one vast sheet of cultivation, filled 
v/ith inhabitants, and so near, that with the aid only of 
a common spy-glass, you distinguish the motions of 
every individual who is abroad in the neighbouring 
village, even to the frolicks of the children, and the 
active industry of the domestic fowls, seeking their 
food, or watching over, and providing for their 
young. And from the same window, when the 
morning mist, shrouding the world below and 
frequently hiding it completely from view, still 
leaves the summit of the mountain in clear sun- 
shine, you may hear through the dense medium, 
the mingled sounds, occasioned by preparation for 
the rural occupations of the day. 

From the boat vr summer house, several paths 
diverge ; one of which, leading to the northeast, af- 
ter passing through a narrow defile, is divided into 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 16 

two branches ; the first passes round the lake, and • 
generally out of sight of it, for a quarter of a mile, 
until descending a very steep bank, through a grove 
of evergreens, so dark as to be almost impervious to 
the rays of the sun, even at noon day, it brings you 
suddenly and unexpectedly, out, upon the east- 
ern margin of the water, into the same road 
which was seen from the opposite side, and from 
thence along it, to the cottage, beyond the foot 
of the south rock. The other branch of the path, 
after leaving the defile, passes to the east side of the 
northern ridge, and thence you ascend through the 
woods, to its summit, where it terminates at the 
Tower, standing within a few rods of the edge of the 
precipice. The tower is a hexagon, of sixteen feet 
diameter, and fifty five feet high; the ascent, of about 
eighty steps, on the inside, is easy, and from the 
top which is nine hundred and sixty feet above the 
level of Connecticut river, you have at one view, all 
those objects which have been seen separately from 
the different stations below. The diameter of the 
view in two directions, is more than ninety miles, 
extending into the neighbouring states of Massachu- 
setts and New-York, and comprising the spires of 
more than thirty of the nearest towns and villages. 
The little spot of cultivation surrounding the house, 
and the lake at your feet, with its picturesque ap- 
pendages of boat, winding paths, and Gothic build- 
ings, shut in by rocks and forests, compose the fore- 
8:;round of this ^rand Panorama. 



io TOTR BETWEEN' HAKTFORP \VT> QIEBFC. 

Ou the western side, the Farniiiijion valley ap- 
pears, in still greater beauty than even from the low- i 
er brow, and is seen to a greater extent, presenting: j 
many objects which were not visible from any other 
quarter. On the east, is spread before you, the , 
s^reat plain through which the Connecticut river 
winds its course, and up^^^n the borders of which tlie ! 
towns and villages are traced for more than forty i 
miles. The most considerable place within sight. ,1 
is Hanford, where, although at tlie distance of eight « 
miles in a direct line, you see, with tlie aid of a j 
glass, the carriages passing at tlie intersection of the * 
streets, and distinctly trace the motion and position 
of the vessels, as they appear, and vanish, upon the \ 
river, whose broad sweeps are seen like a succession j 
of hikes, extending ilirough the valley. The whole j 
of this magnificent picture, including in its vast ex- i 
tent, cultivated plains and rugged mountains, rivers, i 
towns, and villages, is encircled bv a distant outline j 
of blue mountains, rising in shapes of endless vari- \ 
ety. ! 

The annexed prints, Nos. 1 and 2. will give some i 

ocular Dlustrations of the sceuery on the top of the j 
mountain. They ex'hibit different views of the 

lake, the cuhivated lawn, tlie buildings, the sur- i 

rounding forest, and rocky pinnacles and tower; i 

but still, it must be remembered, that they give only 1 

some parts of the scene on the top of the mountain, ] 

without conveying any adequate idea, of tlie altitude j 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND vlUKBEC. 17 

of the place, and scarcely a glimpse of the remote 
scenery. Indeed, the full illustration of the beauties 
of this mountain, would require a port folio of views, 
and would form a fine subject for the pencil of a 
master. 

As the beauty and grandeur of this place depend 
principally upon certain general facts relative to the 
geological structure and consequent scenery of the 
middle region of Connecticut, it may not be amiss 
to sketch in a very general way what I. believe has 
been nowhere sketched at all. 



Scenery and Geology of the Middle Region of Con- 
necticut. 

Among the objects which most powerfully arrest 
the attention of a traveller, natural scenery gene- 
rally occupies a distinguished place. No person, 
however heedless in observation, or torpid in feel- 
ing, can fail to experience some degree of interest 
in the features drawn upon the face of the earth by 
the hand of the Almighty, or to preserve some 
recollections of them. Even those whose views 
rise not above their immediate occupations, and 
who contemplate the earth only as a place on which 
they may live and act, and as a reservoir from which 



18 TOUll BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (tUEBEC. 

emolument may flow, are still attentive to deep 
sands and rocky defiles, to dangerous bogs and 
marshes, and to mountain chains, \vhen they defeat 
or enhance the toils of cultivation, or oppose for- 
midable obstacles to travelling. National character 
often receives its peculiar cast from natural scenery. 
The hardy mountaineer, at least in the early stages 
of society, instinctively despises and easily subdues 
the soft inhabitant of rich alluvial plains ; and the 
peculiar characteristics of the Scotch Highlander, 
of the Bedouin Arab, and of the Hindu, are derived 
as much from the mountains, the sandy deserts, and 
the luxuriant vallies and plains, which they res- 
pectively inhabit, as from other causes. Natural 
scenery therefore is always worthy of observation, 
and It will be a never-failing source of delight to 
those, who, though perhaps not themselves painters 
or poets, participate in any degree in their faculties 
and perceptions ; and find in mountains, plains, and 
vallies— in streams, lakes, and woods— in cataracts 
and caverns— in cultivated regions, and in untamed 
solitudes— in narrow defiles, and in the boundless 
horizon, ever varying sources of pleasure, and inex- 
haustible topics of admiration and praise. 
^ Neither should it be forgotten, that the peculiar 
leatures of every landscape are not fortuitous. The 
nature of the rocks, which, more or less prominent, 
or buried at a greater or less depth, form the firni 
:5ubstratum of every country, determines also the 
iineaments of the surface ; and although the Arab of 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 19 

the desert, while he looks over his boundless ocean 
of sand, and the Norwegian, while he climbs his 
snowy mountains, is unconscious of this truth, it is 
still an acquisition to every intelligent mind. 

Thus, natural scenery is intimately connected 
with taste, moral feeling, utility, an instruction. 

In no country perhaps, is it more varied than in 
North America, and it constantly bears a close rela- 
tion to the geological structure of the different re- 
«^ions. Even in so limited a country as Connecti- 
cut, there are features so widely different, as hardly 
to escape the observation of the most negligent trav- 
eller. The greater part of this state being compos- 
ed of primhive formations, exhibits the usual aspect 
of such countries, and is, with few exceptions, (and 
those relating principally to the alluvion of rivers 
and of the sea shore,) hilly or mountainous. 

In most parts of Connecticut, the traveller passes 
a succession of hills and hollows, bounded by large 
curves, sometimes sinking deep and rising high, so 
as to create great inequality of surface — ascents and 
descents frequently arduous ; but rarely, except at 
fissures and chasms, exhibiting high naked preci- 
pices of rock. 

But, the hills and mountains are not all similar in 
their outline, and, in one region in particular, the 
physiognomy of the country is very pecuHar. 

At New-Haven, commences the region of se- 
condary trap or greenstone, referred to above. It 
completely intersects the state, and the state of 



20 T0I511 BETWEEN HARTFORD AND iiUEUKC 

Massachusetts, like a belt, and even passes to the 
confines of the states of Vermont and New-Hamp- 
shire. 

Through the whole extent of this district, as in a 
great valley among the ridges, the Connecticut river 
flows, except below Middletown, near which the 
river passes through a barrier of primitive country, 
which continues uninterruptedly to the ocean, a 
distance of twenty-five or thirty miles. 

In the mean time, the trap region passes off in a 
direction south-westerly, and obliquely, w^th respect 
to the Connecticut river, and to the sea coast : it in- 
tersects parts of Durham, Guilford, and Branford, and 
unites again with the primitive in East-Haven, on the 
eastern side of New-Haven harbour. There, near 
the light-house, granite ledges are found contiguous 

to, although not, (as yet,) in absolute contact with the 
trap. 

The other boundaries of this region of second- ^ 
ary trap or greenstone, (as it is more frequently \ 
called,) may be thus stated, with sufficient accuracy. |] 
The primitive forms the western termination of * 
New-Haven harbour, and proceeding northerly, j' 
through parts of the towns of Woodbridge, Chesh- I 
ire, Wolcott, Bristol, Burhngton, Canton, and Gran- 
by, crosses into Massachusetts by South-Hampton, 
Northampton, Hatfield, Deerfield, Greenfield, and [ 
Bernardston, and terminates very nearly at the Ver- 
mont line. Returning, on the eastern side, this re- 
gion is bounded by parts of Northfield, Montague, j 

I 

J 



TOUR BETWEEN BARTEOKD ANli Q,LEBEC. 2\ 

Leveret, Pelliam, Belchertown, Granby, &;c. and 
passing into Connecticut at Somers — it is bounded 
by parts of Ellington, Vernon, Bolton, Glastenbury, 
and Chatham : at this latter place it again strikes 
the Connecticut river a little below Middletown, 
where this sketch commenced.* 

This region is more than one hundred miles long, 
I and varies in breadth from three miles to twenty- 
five. Its basis is composed of stratified rocks, in- 
clined to the east generally at a small angle to the 
j horizon ; sand stone is the most conspicuous of 
' these rocks, and it has every variety, fron\ very 
I fine grained, to coarse; sometimes the rock is a 
I breccia or a pudding stone or a mere conglomerate. 
' Generally, beneath the sand stone we find varieties 
i of slaty rocks, sometimes impressed with vegetables 
I and fish, and containing small veins of jet and coal. 
The most conspicuous feature of this region is 
I composed of the fine ridges of greenstone trap, 
which pervade it, generally in the direction of its 
length, and reach from the sea shore at New-Haven, 
with little interruption, to Greenfield and Gill, in th6 
northern part of Massachusetts. 

These ridges of greenstone repose almost univer- 
sally upon sand stone,t and as this rock is by the 

'lam indebted to Mr Tlitclicock's geological map (see Amer. 
Jour, of Science, vol. 1, p. 109,) for a part of those boundaries. 

! Tiie only exceptions tliat I am acquainted with, are those 
mentioned by Mr. Hitchcock in the American Journal of Science-, 
I vol. l,p. 109. 

I 3 



:;2 TUUR BETWEEN HARXrORD AND (QUEBEC. 

consent of all, regarded as a secondary formation, 
proceeding from the ruins of other rocks, it follows, 
of course, that whatever rock reposes upon it, must 
also be secondary. Hence, these greenstone ranges 
are called secondary. The rock is called green- 
btone, from its having, generally, a dark bottle green 
colour, and trap, from its being often in the form of 
steps or stairs — the word trap, in the Swedish lan- 
guage, from which it is derived, having this signifi- 
cation. The constituents of the greenstone trap 
are, generally, the mineral called hornblende, for 
its basis, with feldspar intimately blended, some- 
times visibly and sometimes in distinct crystals. — 
This rock is not hard, but it is very difficult to break 
— is sonorous — endures the weather very w^ell, and 
forms an excellent material for building. 

But the most striking circumstance to a traveiier, 
is, the peculiar physiognomy imparted to this re- 
gion, by the rocks of which we are speaking. Gen- 
erally, throughout the district whose boundaries 
have been sketched, the greenstone mountains rise 
in bold ridges — stretching often, league after league, 
in a continued line — or with occasional interruptions 
—or in parallel lines — or in spurs and branches. 
One front, (and generally it is that which looks w^est- 
erly,) is in most instances, composed of precipitous 
clifis, of naked frowning rock, hoary with time, 
moss-grow^n, and tarnished by a superficial decom- 
position. This front is a perfect barrier, looking like 
an immense work of art, impassable in most places, 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 23 

composed frequently of ill-formed pillars* standing, 
side by side, and recedins; one behind another, at dif- 
ferent elevations, like rude stairs. These pillars ter- 
minate, at last, in a regular ridge, well defined like 
the top of a parapet, and crowned with trees, which a* 
the elevation of from two or three, to seven or eighf 
hundred feet, form a beautiful verdant fringe, often 
of evergreens, which is finely contrasted with the 
rocky barrier below. Although this is the general 
form of these hills, some of them are conical, or, ol 
irregular shapes ; but, the barrier-form is so com- 
mon, that in many parts of this distilct, the country 
seems divided by stupendous walls, and the eye 
ranges along, league after league, without perceiving 
an avenue, or a place of egress. 

Most of the ridges are parallel, and it is when 
travelling at their feet, that one is most forcibly 
struck with their castellated appearance. In some 
parts of the district it is impracticable for many 
miles, to find a passage for a road, or for a stream ; 
and both, when they cross the direction of the ridg- 
es, are wound through narrow rocky defiles, often 
singularly picturesque and wild, with their lofty im- 
pending cliffs, and with their fallen ruins. Indeed, 
I the immense masses of ruins w^hich, both in this dis- 
trict, and in the similar districts of other countries, 
are collected at the feet of the green stone ridges, 

* In some places, as on the front of mount Holyoke near IN'orlb- 
I ampton, they are regular pillars, IHce those of the giant's can?e- 
' way. 



24 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qUBBEC 

tbrm a very striking object. Often they slope, with 
a very sharp accHvity, half, or two thirds of the way 
lip the mountain, and terminate only at the rocky 
barrier ; the ruins are composed of masses of every 
size, from that of a pebble, which may be thrown 
at a bird, to entire cliff's and pillars, of many tons 
weight, which, from time to time, fall, with fearful 
•concussion, into the vallies. This kind of rocky i 
avalanche is so common amons; the 2;reen stone l 
mountains, that it is often heard, and sometimes, in | 
the stillness of night, by those who live in the vicin- i 
ity. ^ I 

The cause is obvious. The greenstone rocks 1 
arc often composed of contiguous, separate, pillars .'■ 
or portions, connected only by juxta position, and :; 
severed by fissures, both vertical and horizontal : 
into the fvirmer, the rain and snow water filters ; \ 
and when it freezes, the rocks are, bv the well ^\ 
known and irresistible expansion of the congeahng ' 
water, strained asunder, and whenever, either by 
the gradual undermining, produced by the weather, 
or by the stone diggers, who fearlessly work under 
the impending cliffs, their centre of gravity ceases to 
be supported, they come thundering down, like the 
alpine glaciers, and strew their ruins beneath. 

The two bluffs at New-Haven, called the East 
and the West Rock, have been (especially the for- 
mer.) in a great measure despoiled of their ruins, 
and, to some extent, even of their columns, in order 
to supply the demands of architecture ; but in most 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 25 

parts of the greenstone region of Connecticut and 
Massachusetts, the venerable piles are undisturbed, 
and the hoary columns, tempest-beaten for ages,. 
stand, the durable monuments of other times. 

On the side of the greenstone ranges, opposite 
to that which presents a mural front, there is gene- 
rally a gradual slope ; often not of difficult ascent, 
and covered with trees and verdure, so that a trav- 
eller coming first upon the front, or the rear, would, 
if unaccustomed to such mountains, have no correct 
idea of the opposite side. 

Such are the outlines of the scenery, and of the 
rocks upon which it depends, in the middle region 
of Connecticut. 

It enables us to understand the peculiarities of 
the beautiful and grand scenery of Monte Video, 
which makes this villa, with its surrounding ob- 
jects, quite without a parallel in America, and prob- 
ably with few in the world. 

To advert again, brief!}', to a few of its leading pe- 
\ Guliarities. It stands upon the very top of one of the 
highest of the green stone ridges of Connecticut, at 
an elevation of more than one thousand two hundred 
feet above the sea, and of nearly seven hundred 
above the contiguous valley. The villa is almost 
j upon the brow of the precipice ; and a traveller in 
the Farmington valley, sees it, a solitary tenement, 
and in a place apparently both comfortless and inac- 
cessible, standing upon the giddy summit, ready, he 
would almost imagine, to be swept away by the 
3* 



26 TOUR BETWEEN H.ARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

first blast from the mountain. The beautiful crys- 
tal lake is on the top of the same lofty greenstone 
ridge, and within a few yards of the house ; it pours 
its superfluous waters in a limpid stream, down the 
mountain's side, and affords in winter, the rnost pel- 
lucid ice that can be imagined. Arrived on the top 
of the mountain, and confining his attention to the 
scene at his feet, the traveller scarcely realizes that 
he is elevated above the common surface. The 
lake, the Gothic villa, farm house and offices, the 
gardens, orchards, and serpentine walks, conducting 
the stranger through all the varieties of mountain 
shade, and to the most interesting points of view, 
indicate a beautiful but peaceful scene ; but, if he 
lift his eyes, he sees still above him, on the nortl). 
bold precipices of naked rock, frowning like ancient 
battlements, and on one of the highest peaks, the 
tall tower, rising above the trees, and bidding defi- 
ance to the storms. If he ascend to its top, he 
contemplates an extent of country that might con- 
stitute a kingdom — populous and beautiful, with vil- 
lages, turrets and towns ; at one time, he sees the 
massy magnificence of condensed vapour, which re- 
poses, in a vast extent of fog and mist, on the 
Farmington and Connecticut rivers, and defines, 
with perfect exactness, all their windings; at anoth- 
er, the clouds roll below him, in wild grandeur, 
through the contiguous valley, and, should a thun- 
derstorm occur at evening, (an incident which eve- 
ry season presents,) he would view with delight. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 27 

chastened by awe, the illuminated hills, and corres- 
ponding hollows, which every where, fill the great 
vale west of the Talcot Mountain, and altcrnatelv 
appear and disappear wuth the flashes of lightning. 

Descending this mountain to the west, the travel- 
ler is powerfully struck whli the view of the enor- 
mous masses of greenstone rock, which lie in con- 
fusion upon the slope of the mountain. They are 
the largest masses of this kind of rock, that I have 
any where seen. One of them is twenty-five feet 
in diameter. They lie in every form of disorder — 
alone, or piled one on another, and plainly evincino;, 
agreeably to the general fact in every country, 
where greenstone mountains abound, that they, 
jnore than almost any other, cover their decliv- 
ities with fallen ruins; that in some period of anti- 
quity, the contiguous ridges were vastly more ele- 
vated than at present, and that these dissevered 
masses, cleaving off from the ridges to which they 
were attached, were precipitated with irresistible 
violence, down the side of the mountain, till they 
found a resting place in solitudes, then trod only by 
the wild beasts, or by the savage aboriginals. 

Alluvial country succeeds to the Talcot mountain, 
and for miles, we pass over gentle undulations aboun- 
ding with water-worn pebles. 

The red sand stone which every where in Con- 
necticut, as well as in many other countries, forms 
the basis of the greenstone mountains, makes its 
appearance in various places, and constitutes, along 



is TOUR BETWEEN HARTVOiiO AND QUEBEC. 

with this species of trap, the most common building 
stone of the country. 



COMMENCEMENT OF THE PRIMITIVE COUNTRY. 

At the distance of thirteen miles from Hartford, 
we crossed the first ridge of gneiss. This was a part 
of the great barrier of primitive rocks which as I 
have already stated, bounds the secondary region of 
Connecticut on the west, and in a moment, 'changes 
both the geology and the picturesque features of the 
country. 

It is w^orthy of remark, that the primitive coun- 
try, on the eastern side of the Connecticut river, 
comes in at nearly the same distance from Hartford 
as on the western side. As we ascend tlie Bolton 
hill, going towards Norwich, we come to the primi- 
tive rocks, wiiich there, are mica slate, filled with 
garnets and staurotide. I suppose these two bounda- 
ries of the primitive, are therefore about twenty-five 
miles apart. Generally, the boundary of primitive 
which limits the great secondary green stone region 
of Connecticut already described, is distinguished 
by the contour of the hills, which is rounded, and 
they are commonly of greater elevation than the 
ridges of trap or greenstone. Thus it is impos- 
sible, for a traveller to go through the length of 
Connecticut, without traversing its secondary green- 
stone region. As he descends from the iiigh 
rounded primitive hills, on either side, lie will 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 29 

be struck with the distinct ridges of greenstone 
rock, and with the long and often narrow rallies 
between them. iMount Holyoke and mount Tom 
near Northampton and the blue hills of Meriden, are 
parts of these greenstone mountains. The State's 
prison of Connecticut, or Newgate, is in one of these 
ranges, or rather in the sand stone which lies under 
it, and from this prison to New-Haven a distance of 
fifty or sikty miles, one rides almost at the foot of a 
nearly uninterrupted barrier of greenstone, frequent- 
ly from four to seven or eight hundred feet high. It 
is amusing to observe how immediately the materi- 
als of the fences and of the buildings, as far as they 
are constructed of stone, change as soon as the geol- 
ogy of the country changes. For some miles, after 
we left the Talcot mountain, the materials of these 
structures continued to be fragments of greenstone 
and of sand stone ; but, as soon as we crossed the 
line of the primitive, these stones disappeared, and 
gneiss and other primitive rocks began to exhibit 
themselves in the houses and fences. Thus, these 
structures become in some measure, cabinets of the 
geology of a country, for, the people will of course 
collect those stones for use, which are most preva- 
lent, and in many instances, they will be loose frag- 
ments of the most prevailing rocks; or, if the stones 
be obtained by quarrying, then they become still 
siUTV criteria of the nature of the countrv. 



30 TOUR BETWKEN HARTFORD AND q,UEBEC. 



ZEAL FOR CHURCHES. 

In the valley of Northington we passed a beauii- 
ful new meeting house. It is a handsome specimen 
of architecture, and is one of three places of public 
worship, recently erected in this little parish, which, 
a short time since, had only one miserable ruinous 
house, situated in the midst of a forest. 

I once attended public worship there on a pleas- 
ant but warm summer sabbath. The house was al- 
most embowered in ancient forest trees; it was 
smaller than many private dwelling houses — was 
much dilapidated by lime, which had furrowed the 
grey unpainted shingles and clapboards, with many 
water-worn channels, and it seemed as if it would 
soon fall. It was an interesting remnant of prime- 
val New-England manners. The people, evidently 
agricultural, had scarcely departed from the simpli- 
citv of our earlv rural habits : the men were not 
parading in foreign broadcloth, nor the women 
flaunting in foreign silks and muslins ; but they ap- 
peared in domestic fabrics, and both men and wo- 
men were dressed with simplicity. I do not mean 
that there were no exceptions, but this was the general 
aspect of the congregation, and, from tlie smallness 
of the house, although there were pews, it seemed 
rather a domestic than a pujDlic religious meeting. 
The minister corresponded, admirably, with the ap- 
pearance of the house and congregation, as far a? rp- 



TOUH BETWEEN HARTFOKD AND (tUEBEC. 31 

tiquity and primeval simplicity were concerned, but 
he was highly respectable for understanding, and 
sustained, even in these humble circumstances, the 
dignity of his station. He was an old man, with 
hoary locks, and a venerable aspect, a man of God, 
of other times — a patriarchal teacher — not caring 
for much balanced nicety of phrase, but giving 
his flock wholesome food, in sound doctrine, and 
plain speech. His prayers had that detail of peti- 
tion — that specific application, both to public and 
private concerns, and that directness of allusion, to 
ihe momentous political events of the day, and their 
apparent bearing upon this people, which was com- 
mon among our ancestors, and especially among the 
first ministers, who brought with them the fervor of 
the times when they emigrated from England. 

This aged minister is still living, but since the 
destruction of his ancient house, and the division of 
his people, he is without any particular charge ; still, 
however, although oppressed with the infirmhies of 
advanced hfe, he occasionally officiates in public. 
Instead of the ancient house, there have now arisen 
the three pretty, modern churches. 

We are not, however, to infer that increased re- 
sources, nor additional zeal for religion has reared 
these edifices ; it was the effect of local jealousies, 
as to the place, where a new house should be built, 
and how often, in our New-England villages, do we 
see this circumstance produce the same result, ad- 
ding to the beauty, but, perhaps, not always to the 
harmony and piety of the neighbourhood. 



32 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 

It would be easy to give a considerable list of 
towns in Connecticut, where two spires rise instead 
of one, because the people could not agree where 
the one should be placed. Happier would it be, if 
these separations had always been free from animos- 
ity — if they had not sometimes laid the foundation 
of permanent discord, and if there had been no in- 
stance of outrageous violence, and the prostration of 
all law and order, while people were professing only 



to honour their Maker, and to benefit their fellow I 

men. But still, who that is friendly to the best in- \ 

t 

terests of mankind can lail to be gratified, with the ^; 

constant succession of churches and spires which he j 

observes in Connecticut, and who would not prefer -^ 

the active interest that is manifested on this subject, | 



although attended with occasional irregularities — to * 
that apathy which permits a land to remain without 
temples to the living God, and rarely salutes the ear 
with the sound of " the church going bell." 

Passing through a part of Canton, we arrived in ' 
a little clustre of pretty houses, handsomely situated 
on the Farmington River. 



PECLLIARH lES IN THE MANNERS OF AMERICAN INNS. 

This was a part of New-Hartford where we din- 
ed pleasantly ; every thing was good, and neatly and 
well prepared, and we were attended by one of j 
those comely respectable young women, (a daugh- j 
icr of the landlord,) who, so- often, in our pubhc j 

t 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 3i> 

houses, perform these services, without departing 
from the most correct, respectable, and amiable de- 
portment. 

This is a pecuharity in the manners of this coun- 
try which is not at once understood by a foreigner, 
and especially by an Enghshman. Such a person, 
if uninstructed in the genius of the country, almost 
of course presumes, that all those whom he sees in 
public houses are in servile situations. If he adopt 
towards them an imperious and harsh manner, he 
gives offence, and produces coldness, and pos- 
sibly resentment, so that the interview ends it) 
mutual dissatisfaction. If the traveller should 
write a book he, of course, enlarges on the rudeness 
of American manners, and it is very possible that 
even the servants of our inns may give him some 
occasion for such remarks, if they are treated as 
persons of their condition commonly are in Europe. 
Some years since, to an Englishman emigrating to 
America, the obvious causes which often disgust the 
English, and offend the Americans when the former 
are travelling among the latter, and especially in the 
smaller towns and villages, were faithfully pointed 
out. ' It was strongly recommended to him, rather 
to ask as a favour, what he had a right to command 
as a duty — to treat the heads of the public houses, 
with marked respect, and their sons and daughters, 
who might be in attendance, and even the servants, 
with kindness and courtesy, avoiding the use of 
terms and epithets which might imply inferiority 
4 



34 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

and servitude, to make their duties as light as 
possible, to manifest no unpleasant peculiarities, 
and to make no unreasonable demands, with re- 
spect to food, wines and cookery. He was assur- 
ed, that with such a spirit, he would be treated with 
respect and kindness — that he would be cheerfully 
served — that the best the house afforded would be 
promptly obtained for hi-m, and should he ever visit 
the same house again, that he would probably be 
remembered and welcomed with cordiality. He 
must indeed, occasionally, concede something to fa- 
miliarity and curiosity, but with an amiable spirit and 
courteous deportment, he would not meet with 
rudeness or neglect, or have occasion to write an 
angry sentence concerning the Americans; and he 
was told, that even the familiarity and curiosity which 
are sometimes unpleasant, would be commonly re- 
paid, by the communication of valuable local infor- 
mation. 

As the gentleman to whom these remarks were 
addressed was gay, and had been a military man, 
he was cautioned not to presume that any members, 
of the families at the public houses, might be treated 
with levity, for, he would find that fathers and broth- 
ers were at hand, and pecuniary considerations 
would be sacrificed, at once, to the respectability of 
the house. After this gentleman had travelled four- 
teen months in the United States, he came to the 
town, where his adviser resided, and thanked him for 
his cautions. He said that they had been of the 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 35 

greatest service to him, that he liad found the pre- 
dictions fully verified, and himself treated with hos- 
pitality and kindness, while he had seen others of 
his countrymen, pursuing an opposite deportment, 
meet with very unpleasant treatment, and creating 
hoth for themselves and others, perpetual dissatisfac^ 
tion. 



RIDE TO SANDISFIELD. 

In the afternoon, during a ride of sixteen miles, 
which brought us to Sandisfield, in Massachusetts, 
we never left the banks of the Farmington river, 
which, owing to its windings, and our own, we, 
crossed during the day, no fewer than seven times, 
and on as many bridges. We had now left the Al- 
bany turnpike, and the great thoroughfare of popu- 
lation and of business, and purposely deviated into 
one of those wildernesses, which, intersected by 
roads, and sprinkled with solitary houses, afford the 
traveller an interesting variety, and easily transport 
him back in imagination, to the time when the whole 
of this vast empire was a trackless forest. In a very 
hilly and almost m.ountainous region, w^e found a 
delightful road, so level, that our horses hardly ever 
broke their trot ; the road generally followed the 
river, and was laid out, with few exceptions, on the 
alluvial bottom, which the river had formed. We 
passed almost the whole distance, through a vast 
defile, in tlio forest, which every where hung around 



36 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

US in gloomy grandeur, presenting lofty trees, rising 
in verdant ridges, but occasionally scorched and 
blackened by fire, even to their very tops, and 
strongly contrasted with the chfTs and peaks of 
rude rocks, which here and there, rose above the 
almost impervious forest. 

Tliis tract of country had the stillness of a rural 
scene, embosomed in mountains ; there were no 
villages, and the few scattered farm houses were 
scarcely near enough, even for rural neighbourhood. 
Their very graves were solitary : Httle family cem- 
eteries several times occurred, marked by pretty, 
white, marble monuments, and by graves covered 
with the richest verdure, while the gloomy bier 
stood, hard by, in the field, ready again to support 
its melancholy burden. 

It was quite dark before we arrived at Sandis- 
field ; wind, rain and gloomy portentous clouds, 
driving over the dark hills, might have made our ^ 
ride, for a few of the last miles, somewhat anxious, 5 
but, our road was good, and the welcome light of i 
the Inn, at length caught our eyes, and a quiet eve- ^ 
uing, passed with our pens and books, beguiled our 
time till the hour of repose. A tolerable house was 
made comfortable, by the assiduity and kindness of 
its tenants, and our sleep, in a great vacant ball 
room, was not much interrupted by the rain, drop- 
ping on the floor, and by the wind, howling through 
broken panes of glass. 

Sandisfield is thirty-six milea from Hartford. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC 37 

RIDE TO LENOX. 

Our equinoctial still continued, and we set for- 
ward before eight in the morning, in the midst of a 
driving rain. But, as the coachman was wrapped 
in a weather proof great coat of oiled silk, and we 
were completely protected from the rain, we pursu- 
ed our journey, without the slightest inconvenience. 

The war of tlie elements corresponded very well 
with the wild scenery through wdiich we were to 
pass. For ten miles, we again followed the course 
of the Farmington river; our road was one contin- 
ued vista, through an unmterrupted wilderness of 
the most lofty trees ; occasionally, the wide forest- 
crowned ridges caught our eyes, as they shewed 
themselves through the openings of the wood, or 
towered above its top ; but, for the most part, the 
river, now much diminished in size, murmuring 
over a rocky channel, and presenting many a for- 
midable barrier of drift wood, recently accumulated 
by an unexampled deluge of rain, was a principal 
object of contemplation ; while the forest, inter- 
spersed with numerous pine trees, rising to a great 
height, often burnt to their v(?ry summits, and totter- 
ing to their fall, appeared, as if, only recently in- 
vaded by man, and as just beginning to resign its 
solitary dominion, to the axe and to the fire. 

The river, we crossed again and again, till we 
numbered the ninth time, and then, a few miles from 
the confines of Lenox, we traced it to its source, in 

4* 



38 TOUK BKTWEEN HAKTFOllD AND QUEBEC. 

a small, but pretty lake, of probably half a mile or 
more in length. Thus we bade adieu to our little 
river, after having been familiar with it for forty 
miles, and for nearly thirty, we had constantly trav- 
elled upon its banks, finding a smooth road in the 
midst of a rugged country. 

To those who would wish to enjoy an interlude 
of forest scenery, almost in the wildness of nature, 
and little more subdued by man, than is necessary 
to render it comfortable to travel through, this ridcj 
from New-Hartford through Sandisfield, to Lenox, 
may be strongly recommended. Such a tract, in 
the midst of populous arid well cultivated regions, is 
in this country rare, and probably more resembles 
a w^estern wild, than a district in an old and popu- 
lous state. 

Soon after passing this lake, the country began to 

descend, ; another lake of greater magnitude occur- 
red on our left — a river soon succeeded, and w« 
recognized these waters, as the first of those which 
begin to feed the infant Housatonick. 

GEOLOGY. 

The rocks on our ride, were, almost invariably, 
gneiss, frequently intersected by distinct veins of 
granite, in which feldspar generally predominated. 
Not far from Lenox we passed two forges, the iron 
ore for which, we were informed, is dug out of the 
hills in the vicinity of that town. 



TOUfl BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 39 

As we ascended the hills on which Lenox stands, 
white primitive hme stone began to appear, in de- 
tached masses, in spots uncovered by quarrying, 
and in ridges crossing the road ; the strata were 
nearly vertical, and like those in Litchfield County 
in Connecticut, were imbedded in 2;neiss. 



LENOX. 

Lenox, the capital of Berkshire county, is a town 
of uncommon beauty. It is built upon a high hill, 
on two streets, intersecting each other nearly at 
right angles ; it is composed of handsome houses, 
which, with the exception of a few of brick, are 
painted of a brilliant white ; it is ornamented with 
three neat houses of public worship, one of which 
is large and handsome, and stands upon a hill high- 
er than the town, and a little removed from it. It 
has a jail, a woollen manufactory, a furnace for hol- 
low ware, an academy of considerable size, and a 
court house of brick, in a fine style of architecture ; it 
is fronted with pillars, and furnished with convenient 
offices and a spacious court room ; this room is car- 
peted, and what is more important, contains a library 
for the use of the bar. Lenox has fine mountain air, 
iind is surrounded by equally fine mountain scene- 
ry. Indeed, it is one of the prettiest of our inland 
towns, and even in the view of an European travel- 
ler, (who had eyes to see any thing beautiful, in 
v/hat is unhke Europe.) it would appear like a gem 



40 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

among the mountains. I did not count the houses, 
but should think there might be one hundred hou- 
ses and stores Sic. Its population is one thousand 
three hundred and ten.* 

White marble is often the material of their steps, 
foundations and pavements. This country abounds 
with primitive white limestone. 

Our dinner and treatment at the inn, were such as 
a reasonable traveller w^ould have been very w^ell 
satisfied with, at a country tavern in England. Still, 
probably no small town in England is so beautiful as 
Lenox, nor have the Europeans, in general, any ad- 
equate idea of the beauty of the New-England villa- 
ges. — Lenox is fifty eight miles from Hartford. 

RIDE TO NEW-LEBANON. 

As we ascended a mountainous ridge, two miles 
on the road to New-Lebanon, a fine retrospect oc- 
curred. Immediately below, was a spacious and 
deep basin, environed by mountains, which, receding 
one behind another^ presented in one view, brilliant 
forest green, in another, dark hues, almost black, 
and farther off, ridges and summits struggling 
through clouds and mist, and rain, in obscure and 
gloomy grandeur. Beautifully contrasted with 
these, was the bright clustre of buildings in Lenox, 
compact, blended by perspective into one rich group, 
in which turrets, and Gothic pinnacles and Grecian 

* Worcester's Gaz:eteer^ 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 4l 

pillars were conspicuous, and eeemed like a string 
of pearls, upon the brow and declivity of the hill, 
now sunk by comparison, to one of moderate eleva- 
tion. 

It were in vain to attempt to describe all the fine 
alpine scenery, which, with endless variety, was per- 
petually occurring and perpetually changing. Rich 
vallies and basins, were every where, mixed with 
the hills and mountains, on whose declivities and 
summits, cultivation had often spread scenes of fer- 
tility and beauty. 

The lofty Hoosack, with its double summit — the 
highest mountain in this region, appeared at a dis- 
tance on our right ; — on our left, the fertile vales of 
Richmond, a scattered agricultural town, and almost 
before we were aware of it, we wound our way 
down the steep declivity of the mountain, which 
bounds the southeast side of the vale of New-Leb- 
anon. We had already passed upon our right, a 
small village belonging to the people, ludicrously 
called Shakers or Shaking Quakers. 

VILLAGE OF THE SHAKERS. 

We did not deviate into this first settlement, be- 
cause their principal establishment, in this quarter, 
was immediately before us, and we were indeed not 
fully clear of the mountain, before we found our- 
selves in the midst of their singular community. 
Their buildings are thickly planted, along a street of 



42 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

a mile in length. All of them are comfortable, and a 
considerable proportion are large. They are, almost 
without an exception, painted of an ochre yellow, 
and, although plain, they make a handsome appear- 
ance. The utmost neatness is conspicuous in their 
fields, gardens, court yards, out houses, and in the 
very road; not a weed, not a spot of filth, or any 
nuisance is suffered to exist. Their wood is cut 
and piled, in the most exact order; their fences are 
perfect; even their stone walls are constructed with 
great regularity, and of materials so massy, and so 
well arranged, that unless overthrown by force, they 
may stand for centuries ; instead of wooden posts 
for their gates, they have pillars of stone of one solid 
piece, and every thing bears the impress of labour, 
vigilance and skill, with such a share of taste, as is 
consistent with the austerities of their sect. Their 
orchards are beautiful, and probably no part of our 
country presents finer examples of agricultural ex- 
cellence. They are said to possess nearly three 
thousand acres of land, in this vicinity. Such neat- 
ness and order I have not seen any where, on so 
large a scale, except in Holland, where the very 
necessities of existence impose order and neatness 
upon the whole population; but here it is voluntary. 
Besides agriculture, it is well known, that the 
Shakers occupy themselves much, with mechanical 
employments. The productions of their industry 
and skill, sieves, brushes, boxes, pails and other do- 
mestic utensils are every where exposed for sale, and 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 4o 

are distinguished by excellence of workmanship. 
Their garden seeds are celebrated for goodness, and 
find a ready market. They have many gardens, 
but there is a principal one of several acres which 
I am told exhibits superior cultivation. 

Their females are employed in domestic manu- 
factures and house work, and the community is fed 
and clothed by its own productions. 

The property is all in common. The avails of 
the general industry are poured into the treasury of 
the whole ; individual wants are supplied from a 
common magazine, or store house, which is kept for 
each family, and ultimately, the elders invest the 
gains in land and buildings, or sometimes in money, 
or other personal property, which is held for the 
good of the society. 

It seems somewhat paradoxical to speak of a fam- 
ily, where the relation upon v/hich it is founded is 
unknown. But still, the Shakers are assembled in 
what they call families, which consist of little col- 
lections, (more or less numerous according to the 
size of the house) of males and females, who occu- 
py separate apartments, under the same roof, eat at 
separate tables, but mix occasionally for society, la- 
bour, or worship. There is a male and a female 
head to the family, who superintend all their con- 
cerns — give out their provisions — allot their employ- 
ments, and enforce industry and fidelity. 

The numbers in this village, as we were informed 
by onR of the male members, are about five hun- 



44 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEe, 

dred, but there are said to be fifteen hundred, inchi- 
ding other villages in this vicinity. Their numbers 
are sustained by voluntary additions, and by prose- 
lyting. Poor and ignorant people, in the vicinity, 
and on the neighbouring mountains in particular, are 
allured, it is said, by kindness, and presents, to join 
the society; and destitute widows, frequently come 
in, with their children, and unite themselves to this 
community. Where a comfortable subsistence for 
life, a refuge for old age, and for infancy and child- 
hood, the reputation (at least with the order) of pie- 
ty, and the promise of heaven are held out to view, 
it is no wonder that the ignorant, the poor, the be- 
reaved, the deserted, the unhappy, the superstitious, 
the cynical and even the whimsical, should occasion- 
ally swell the numbers of the Shakers. 

Their house of public worship is painted white, 
and is a neat building, which in its external appear- 
ance, would not be disreputable to any sect. 

Their worship, which I did not have an opportu- 
nity of seeing, is said to be less extravagant than 
formerly; their dancing is still practised, but with 
more moderation, and for a good many years, they 
have ceased to dance naked, which was formerly 
practised, and even with persons of different sexes. 
Their elders exercise a very great influence over the 
minds of the young people. The latter believe (as 
I was assured by a respectable inhabitant of New- 
Lebanon, but not a Shaker) that the former hold a 
direct and personal intercourse with Christ and the 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTi ORD AND QUEBEC. 45 

Apostles, and that the elders possess the power 
of inspecting their very thoughts, and their most 
secret actions. Perhaps this will account for the re- 
puted purity of the Shakers, for whatever may be 
imagined, it does not appear that any scandalous of- 
fences do now occur among them, or, at least, that 
they are brought to hght, and it must be allowed 
that if they were frequent, they could not be con- 
cealed. 

They profess, it is said, to believe, that Christ has 
already appeared the second time on the earth, in 
the person of their great leader, mother Ann Lee. 
and that the saints are now judging the world. 

They have no hterature among them, nor do we 
hear that they are ever joined by people of enlighten- 
ed minds. We met a party of children apparently 
coming from school, and I enquired of a Shaker, a 
middle aged man of respectable appearance, wheth- 
er the children belonged to the Society ; he answer- 
ed in the affirmative ; " But," I replied, " how is 
that, since you do not have children of your own.'^" 
Are these children the offspring of parents who 
after becoming such, have joined your society, and 
brought their children with them.^" " Yea," w-as 
the answer, with a very drawling and prolonged ut- 
terance, and at the same time, there was a slight 
faultering of the muscles of his face, as if he were a 
little disposed to smile. The children were dress- 
ed in a plain costume as the whole society are. 

5 



46 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC, 

This singular people took their rise in England, 
nearly half a century ago, and the settlement at 
New-Lehanon, is of more than forty years standing. 

They first emigrated to America in the year 1774, 
under their spiritual mother, Ann Lee, a niece of the 
celebrated General Charles Lee, who made a dis- 
tinguished figure, during the American Revolutiona- 
ry War. 

The order, neatness, comfort and thrift, which are 
conspicuous among them, are readily accountedTor, 
by their industry, economy, self-denial and devotion to 
their leaders, and to the common interest, all of which 
are religious duties among them, and, the very fact 
that they are, for the most part, not burdened with 
the care of children, leaves them greatly at liberty, 
to follow their occupations without interruption.* 

But — where is the warrant, either in reason or in 
scripture, by which whole communities, (not, here 
and there, individuals, peculiarly situated,) withdraw 
themselves from the most interesting and important 
of the social relations — from the tender charities of 
husband and wife — from the delightful assiduities of 
parental love — from that relation, on which society 

* Tbey have another collection of houses in the vicinity, where 
I was told they place offending members, who I)eing under disci- 
pline, are for the time, excluded from the community, and whom 
they style backsliders; they designate them by saying, "they are 
Qid of the gift:' I am told that they are not offended by being 
vailed Shdcers, and do not regard it as an opprobrious epithet. 
Indeed, I have never heard of a milder or more respectable name, 
hy which they cKher are called, or even wish to be 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 47 

Stands, and on which, as on a fruitful stock, is graft- 
ed, every personal and domestic virtue, and every 
hope, both for this world and a better !^ 

By what right are they empowered to recruit their 
ranks, thinned from time to time by death, by draw- 
ing upon the social world, V\'hose obedience to the 
first law of God and nature, they condemn, while 
they are dependant upon it. both for their ow^n exist- 
ence as individuals, and for the continuance of theii 
own unnatural community ; however commend- 
able they may be for their industrious, moral and 
humane deportment; the principle of their associa- 
tion is, in my opinion, deserving of severe reproba- 
tion. But, happily, their example is very little in 
danger of general imitation; mankind will not, gen- 
erally, be persuaded to go on a crusade, or to suffer 
martyrdom, in the cause of celibacy, and I believe 
it will be long ere the world, according to their ex- 

* More 13 not here attributed to the Institution of marriage, thdin 
it deserves, for, to try the question, we must ask, not, what is the 
condition of, here and there, a convent or a monastery, or of a few 
clusters of Shakers, protected as they are by society, founded on 
marriage, and drawing their recruits from the offspring of its vir- 
tuous affections. We must inquire what would be the condition 
of the w'orld, w'ere the institution of marriage cnlirely abolished ! 
It is obvious, that it w'ould soon become the urdversal theatre of 
crimes, of every description, which are now only occasional^ and 
that no one solitary virtue could possibly spring up, or be cherish- 
ed. Piety itself, could it exist in such a state of things, must (if 
such paradoxical language can be admitted,) necessarily become 
exclusively selfish, and indeed, it could find no refuge, except in 
absolute sccliisioa, in the dens and caves of tbc earth. 



48 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

pectation, is all reformed by becoming a generation 
of Shakers, for this they say, will constitute the Mil- 
lenium. Poor human nature — of what is it not ca- 
pable — what absurdity ! — what impiety ! (I had al- 
most said.) is there, which it has not sanctioned 
with tlie name of religion. 

As the Shakers are not now a new people, and as 
their most prominent pecuharities are well known, 
I am not disposed to dwell with much minuteness 
on a subject, in which I confess I have very httle 
complacency: a few particulars more, may howev- 
er, be added. 

They rarely publish any thing respecting their 
own principles and habits, and we are indebted 
chiefly to those who have seceded from their com- 
munity, for the more precise information which we 
possess respecting them. 

Among various publications of this nature — "An 
account of the people called Shakers, their faith, 
doctrines and practice, &;c. by Thomas Brown," 
who was, for several years, a member of their socie- 
ty, is probably one of the best. It has every appear- 
ance of being written with candor and truth, and al- 
though an unpolished performance, exhibits consid- 
able ability. 

If this book be considered as a fair account of the 
Shakers, it is manifest, that notwithstanding all the 
t'-ommendation to which they are entitled, for their 
moral virtues and their habits of order, industry and 
economy, they are the subjects of the wildest fanat- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 49 

icism, and of the most degrading superstition. If it 
be idolatry and blasphemy, to pronounce a woman, 
of at least questionable character, to be the Saviour 
of the world, at his second coming, and thus, in the 
person of this woman, to blend the at,tributes of the 
Son of God, with at least occasional drunkenness, it 
will be very difficult to acquit the Shakers of these 
crimes.* I am aware of the ignorance of many of 
these people, and am not disposed to doubt, that 
there is real piety among them, any more than I am 
to deny that industry, sobriety, economy and occa- 
sional humanity are conspicuous traits of their char- 
acters. They have however, been known to act in 
a very inhuman manner, in separating and alienating 
children from parents, and in severing the other dear- 
est ties of our common nature, for the purpose of 
building up their own sect. 

The conclusion of Mr. Brown's book contains the 
following summary of facts respecting them. Speak- 

* I here allude to Ann Lee. She was born in Manchester about 
the year 1735, and became the wife of Abraham Stanley, a black- 
smith, who proved unkind and intemperate. Having been jieeu- 
liarly unfortunate in the loss of eight infants, owing piincipaily 
to very severe personal sufferings, during a dangerous crisis, 
which, at last, had nearly proved fatal, siie renounced marriage, 
declaring it to have been the great original sin, and thus became 
the leader of the Shakers. They had before practised mai-riage, 
but from this time (1771) they have renouncrd it. Ann Lee, 
(now called mother Ann, because she was considered as the spir- 
itual mother of her disciples,) claimed the gift of lai'guages, of 
healing, of discovering the secrets of the heart, oi' being actua- 
ted by the invisible power of God, of sinless perfection, and of 

5* 



oO TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

ing of their conversion he says: — "After a number 
have believed, the next principal labour of the lea- 
ders is to gather them into a united interest and or- 
der. They assemble every sabbath in their public 
meeting-house. 

They walk to the meeting-house, in order, two 
and two, and leave it in the same order. Men en- 
ter the left hand door of the meeting-house, and 
women the right hand. In each dwelling-house, is a 
room called the meeting-room, in which they assem- 
ble for worship every evening ; the young believers 
assemble morning and evening, and, in the afternoon 
of the sabbath, they all assemble in one of these 
rooms, in their dwelling-house, to which meeting 
spectators, or those who do not belong to the society, 
are not admitted, except friendly visitors. Their 
houses are well calculated and convenient. 

immediat« revelations. Mr. Brown says, however, of mother 
Ann, that she sometimes drank spirituous liquors to intoxication, 
pronouncing them one of God's good creatures. She died at Nis* 
keuna in 17S4. In what estimation she was held by her follow- 
ers, may be learned from the following, (must we not say .') 
bhisphemous lines, taken from different hymns of the Shakers : 

" Christ's second coming was in niotlier Ann-^- 

" We bless our dear mother the chief corner stone 

■" Which God laid in Zion his anointed one ; 

*' Let names and sects and parties 

*♦ Accost my ears no more ; 

" My ever blessed mother, 

*' Forever Hi adore. 

♦* Appointed by kind heavenj 

'- My Saviour to reveal ; 

*' She was the Lord's anointed, 

•'• To shew thfc root of sin, fac. &c. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 51 

In the great house at Lebanon there are near 
one hundred ; the men Hve in their several apart- 
ments on the right, as they enter into the house, 
and the women on the left, commonly four in a 
room. They kneel in the morning by the side of 
the bed, as soon as they arise, and the same before 
they he down ; also before and after every meal. 
The brethren and sisters generally eat at the same 
time at two long tables placed in the kitchen, men 
at one, and women at the other ; during which time, 
they sit on benches and are all silent. They go to 
their meals walking in order, one directly after the 
other ; the head of the family, or elder, takes tli» 
lead of the men, and one called elder sister takes the 
lead of the women. Several women are employ- 
ed in cooking and waiting on the table — they ar(j 
commonly relieved weekly by others. It is contra- 
ry to order for a man or woman to sleep alone, but 
two of the brethren sleep together, and the sisters 
the same. It is contrary to order for a man to be 
alone with a woman, also to touch one another. If 
a man presents any thing to a female, or a female 
to a male, due care must be taken by each one not 
to touch the other. It is contrary to order for a wo- 
man to walk out alone, or to be alone. A man 
and woman are not allowed to converse together, 
except in the presence of some of the brethren and 
sisters. They sometimes have what they call un- 
ion meetings, when several of the brethren and sis- 
ters meet together, sit and converse and smoke their 



52 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qUEBEG. 

pipes. If a man is on the road alone from bomr. i 
in a carriage, it is contrary to order -for him to ad- j 
mit a woman to ride with him on any account what- [ 
ever. It is contrary to order, or the gift as they i 
call it, to leave any bars down, or gates open, or ] 
leave any thing they use, out of its proper place, 
consequently they seldom have any thing lost. It . 
is according to the 2;ift or order, for all to endeav- » 
our to keep all things in order; indolence and care- i 
lessness they say is directly opposite to the gospel [ 
and order of God; cleanliness in every respect is j 
strongly enforced — it is contrary to order even to ' 
spit on tlie floor. A dirty, careless, slovenly or in- 
dolent person they say, cannot travel in the way of ! 
God, or be religious. It is contrary to order to talk : 
loud, to shut doors hard, to rap at a door for admit- .i 
tance, or to make a noise in any respect; even when ' 
walking the floor, they must be careful not to make f 
a noise with their feet. Thev ^o to bed at nine or \\ 
ten o'clock, and rise at four or five ; all that are in i 
health go to work about sun-rise, in-door mechan- j' 
ics, in the winter, work by candlelight: each one j^ 
follows such an employment as the deacon appoints '' 
for him. Every man and woman must be employ- 
ed, and work steadily and moderately. When any 
are sick they have the utmost care and attention 
paid to them. When a man is sick, if there is a wo- ! 
man among the sisters, who was his wife before he r 
beheved, she, if in health, nurses and waits upon i 
him. If anv of them transsjress the rules and or- ^ 



TOUU BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 53 

ders of the church, they are not held in union until 
they confess their transgression, and that often on 
their knees, before the brethren and sisters. 

Each church in the different settlements has a 
house called the office, where all business is trans- 
acted either among themselves or with other peo- 
j pie; each family deposit in the office all that is to 
, be spared for charitable purposes, which is distribu- 
! ted by the deacon to those whom he judges to be 
, proper objects of charity. He never sends the poor 
, and needy empty away. 

I Mr. Browm is of opinion that they will not " soon 
< become extinct." " Their general character" (he 
1 adds,) "of honesty in their temporal concerns, and 
\ their outward deportment and order being such, that 
j many may be induced to join them; and as indus- 
1 try and frugality are two great points in their reli- 
gion, it is likely they will become a rich people." 
I In proof of his opinion he remarks : — " See the once 
uncultivated wilderness waste of Niskeuna, and oth- 
er places now turned into fruitful fields — see their 
neatpubhc edifices towering amidst the surrounding 
elegance and neatness of their more private habita- 
tions — See their ability in their munificent dona- 
tions to the poor in New-York; judging 

of their future prosperity from their present flourish- 
ing state and from their being a much more orderly 
people, (than formerly) it is possible they may in- 
crease in number and acquire a prevailing influence 
in the future destinies of thi? country." 



54 TOUR BJCTWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEt- 

^EW-LEBANON MINERAL SPRING. ^^ 

This is a very remarkable fountain. Unlike most J 
mineral waters, it issues from a high hill ; the wa- 
ter boils up, in a space of ten feet wide, by three 
and a half deep; it is perfectly pellucid, so that a 
pin's head might be seen on the bottom of the 
spring ; gas in abundance, issues from the pebbles, 
and sand, and keeps the water in constant and pleas- 
ing agitation ; the fountain is very copious, more so 
by far than any spring that I have seen, except the 
springs at Bath in England ; the water discharged 
amounts to eighteen barrels in a minute, and not 
only supplies the baths very copiously, simply by 
running down hill to them, but, in the same man- 
ner it feeds several mills, and turns the water wheels 
with suiBcient power. Owing to its high tempera- 
ture it does not congeal in winter which gives it 
a great advantage for moving machinery. The 
quantity of water is constant, and varies not percep- 
tibly in any season — so is its temperature which is 
730 of Fahrenheit. This temperature, so near the 
summer heat, makes it truly e thermal water, and 
causes a copious cloud of condensed vapour to hang 
over the fountain, whenever the air is cold. There 
is no film to be seen upon the water, it apparently 
deposits nothing by standing, but in the course of 
time, there collects in its channel, an earthy or stony 
deposit, which eventually becomes copious and hard. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UI»BEC. 55 

This deposit is rapidly made in the tea kettles, 
which are speedily incrusted, and their throats 
choaked by it; it is of a white colour, and its ori- 
gin can scarcely be a subject of wonder, since the 
fountain issues from a hill of lime stone. 

The water is perfectly tasteless and inodorous — 
very soft — does not curdle soap — is used for all cu- 
linary and domestic purposes — is acceptable to ani- 
mals, which drink at the stream that flows in a rivu- 
let down the hill, and apparently, differs little from 
very pure mountain water, except by its reraakable 
temperature ; that of the contiguous springs in the 
same hill is as low as that of any mountain springs 
— about 50^. 

It is found to be very useful in salt rheums and 
various other cutaneous affections — in some trouble- 
some interna] obstructions &:c. It augments the ap- 
petite and sometimes acts as a cathartic. The bath 
if used, without previously guarding the stomach, by 
a draught of the water, sometimes produces sickness 
at the stomach. 

As to the chemical constitution of this water, 
Professor Griscom, (in ISIO) from the apphcation 
of tests, but without attempting a regular analysis, 
drew certain conclusions, which are stated in 
Bruce's Journal v. 1. pa. 158. 

Dr. William Meade,* from a regular process of 

* See the appendix to Dr. Meade's Experimental Enquiry into > 
*he Chemical Properties and Medicinal Qualities of the Ballston 
and Saratoga Waters. 



1 grain. 


1 3-4 


1 1-2 


3-4 



5G TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD ANJD QUEBEC. 

analysis infers, that the Lebanon Spring contains, 
in two quarts of the water — 

Muriat of Lime, 

Muriat of Soda, 

Sulphat of Lime, - - - 

Carbonat of Lime, 

Total, - - 5 

The aeriform fluids in two quarts of the water, he 
states thus : — 

Azotic gas, (or nitrogen,) 13 cubic inches. 
Atmospheric air, - - 8 do. do. 

21 

Dr. Meade remarks that the Lebanon water is 
purer than most natural waters, and purer than the 
contiguous springs, which flow from the same hill. 
Its temperature appears therefore to be the only pe- 
cuharity to which any medical virtues can be attach- 
ed. It is beyond a doubt, that tepid waters, not 
stronger in mineral ingredients than the Lebanon 
water, do produce salutary effects, as at Bristol and 
Buxton in Lngland. The Buxton water is very 
similar to that at Lebanon ; it is very copious and a 
little warmer. Being there some years since, I was 
forcibly struck with the abundance and purity of the 
v/ater and with the fine atmosphere and features of 
the country. As to picturesque scenery, it is how- 
ever inferior to New-Lebanon, and it is probable 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 57 

that there is not a mineral spring in the world, sur- 
rounded by finer landscapes than this. 

Not expecting, when I left home, to visit any min- 
eral spring, I had to regret that I had no reagents or 
instruments of analysis with me. I brought only 
instruments necessary for mineralogical and geolo- 
gical observations. 

The gas which issues from the spring, is so copi- 
ous, that I could easily collect it in the usual man- 
ner, in bottles filled with the water of the fountain, 
and inverted in it, with funnels in their mouths. 

I ascertained, that the gas readily extinguishes a 
candle—smoke, mingled with it, descends to the bot- 
tom of the vessel, and does not rest upon it, as in car- 
bonic acid ; the gas does not readily run from the 
mouth of an inverted botde, on to a burning can- 
dle, but if the candle be held close to the mouth of 
the bottle, it is extinguished as the gas passes out. 
I am therefore of opinion with Dr. Meade, that the 
gas is azot. Indeed, as he justly remarks, the fact 
ihat the w^ater is not acidulous or sparlding, although 
the gas that rises through it is very abundant ; that 
it does not trouble hme w^ater, and is not at all ab- 
sorbed by it, and that it does not redden litmus pa- 
per, sufficiently proves that the gas contains no car- 
bonic acid." 

* The proprietor of the spring, furnished me witli a quantity of 
the solid matter, deposited by boiling the Mater in tea kettles. 
I find that it dissolves in nitric acid with great rapidity, and with 
a very active effervescence, leaving only a small residuum. The 

6 



5S TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD ASD (QUEBEC. 

Azot probably imparts no virtues to mineral wa- 
ters, as it is insoluble in water. Still it is found in 
many, especially, of the warm springs. Bath water, 
which boils up with great agitation, owes this move- 
ment in part to azot, but, perhaps more to the aque- 
ous vapour, for the w^ater is at the temperature of 
116^ of Fah. when it first emerges, and is probably 
much hotter below. 

We know that this spring has flowed, thus hot, 
more than two thousand years ; what is the cause ? 
There are no relics of volcanoes here, nor other 
marks of subterranean heat, except those aflbrded 
by the water itself. 

SCENERY OF NEW-LEBANON. 

Had this remarkable place been situated in Eu- 
rope, tourists w^ould have pronounced its panegyric, 
and poets would have made it famous, as Windsor 
or Richmond Hill, or as the little Isle in Loch Ka- 
trin. 

Few places have fallen within my observation, 
which combine both the grand and the beautiful, in 

saturated solution is iiileiii^ely l/itter — gives a o?t.cie j recip- 
itate witli fluat of ammonia, anil with suljihuric acid becomep 
?Alid, so that the glass was inverted without droj'ping a particle. 
This residuum from tlie evaporation of tlie water \n the tea ket- 
tles, is tasteless — insoluble in water, and reiuains uRaltered, even 
in a damp air. All tlicse facts show it \£> be principally corbonat 
of lime : the muriats which Dr. Meade found, would of course be 
removed bv the Imilin^ water. — Mnv. i«C!<' 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 59 

a higher degree, than the bashi of New-Lebanon. 
Embosomed in mountains, (at this time capped with 
dark clouds,) which, whh their lofty and apparently 
impassable barriers, seem to shut it out from the rest 
of the v/orld— verdant and beautiful in its slopes, 
and in the plain by which they are terminated, and ex- 
hibiting a village, with a handsome church and steeple 
in the bottom of the basin, it powerfully brought to 
my recollection, the valley of Castleton, in the Peak 
of Derbyshire. Between the two, there is certamly 
a striking resemblance, but with some points of dis- 
parity. 

The Derbyshire mountains are more lofty, and ol 
course, more grand— those of New-Lebanon, while 
they are cultivated, in some places to their summits, 
are also extensively crowned with forests, while the 
Derbyshire mountains are naked as a hillock, shorn 
by the scythe. The New-Lebanon scenery resem- 
bles also, that in the vicinity of the celebrated springs 
of Bath in England. 

At New-Lebanon, the principal lodging house is 
situated on the slope of one of the high hills and 
near its summit. The view from the gallery, in the 
front of this house, is very fine, and much resembles 
that from the Crescent at Bath; from the latter, you 
see a beautiful amphitheatre of hills, highly cultiva- 
ted and verdant, and possessing more wood than is 
common in England, but the view at Bath, althougli 
perhaps more beautiful, from cultivation, is less ex- 
tensive, and less magnificent and grand, than that at 
New-Lebanon. 



GO 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 



On the side of the New-Lebanon basin, opposite 
to the spring, at the distance of two miies and an 
half, upon the declivity of the mountain, and near 
its base, is the Shaker's village, which, with its green 
fields and neat houses, is a pleasing object, in the 
outline of the picture. Nearer still, (as I have al- 
ready remarked,) and in the very bottom of the ba- 
sin, is the handsome village of New-Lebanon, com- 
posed of neat white houses, and a pretty church, 
with a spire; and all around, are the grand slopes of 
mountains which limit the view on every side, and 
present fields, woods and rocks, and bold ridges, up- 
on which the clouds often repose. 

Bristol spring in England is surrounded by the 
fine scenery of the Avon, and the romantic rock of 
St. Vincent impends over it, with a good degree of 
grandeur, but even this scene is very limited com- 
pared with that of New-Lebanon, and when at the 
Bristol spring, the observer is in a deep channel, by 
the side of the river, and shut out completely from 
all prospect. From the top of St. Vincent's rock, 
and from every part of Clifford, and the other emi- 
nences around Bristol, and indeed from the upper 
street of the town itself, there are the finest views. 
^ The famous Springs atBallston and Saratoga, are 
situated in disagreeable low bottoms, with scarcely 
any advantages of scenery, and with no attractions, 
except those presented by the medicinal powers of 
the waters, by good cheer, and by genteel compa- 
ny; the first of these advantages is very great, and 



TOUR BETWEEN HAIITFORD AND (^UEREC. 61 

those springs are, without doubt, one of the greatest 
natural bounties of heaven to this country. The 
other two may be enjoyed at New-Lebanon, where 
we found pleasant company, and a house extremely 
comfortable, in every thing except the beds, which 
were very hard. 

For those who wish to enjoy fine rural scenery, 
bold, picturesque and beautiful, with the best moun- 
tain air, and such advantages to health, as this copi- 
ous fountain presents, nothing can be better in its 
kind than New-Lebanon. Its waters must be ad- 
mirable for bathing. 

New-Lebanon spring is twelve miles from Lenox 
and seventy miles from Hartford. 

It is situated just within the limits of the State of 
New-York, and very near both the states of Massa- 
chusetts and Connecticut. A stone similar to a 
mile stone, denoting the boundary line between the 
states of Massachusetts and New-York, occurs on 
the slope of the mountain, as we descend toward 
the village of the Shakers. 

In the valley of New-Lebanon, there is a family 
vault which struck us on entering the village. It is 
a neat cemetery, covered by a high mound ; a mar- 
ble table lies on the top, and (what constitutes its 
singularity) it has a flag stalf, similar to those in 
forts ; we supposed it must be a mausoleum for 
some military man, but we w^ere informed that it 
was the vault of a private family, of the name of 
6* 



G2 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEr. 

Hand, and that whenever any member of the famijr 
dies, a black flag is hoisted on the flag staff. 

RIDE TO ALBANY. 

The morning after our arrival at the New-Leba- 
non spring, the equinoctial storm, which had never 
deserted us, poured literally floods of rain ; they ran 
in torrents, down the steep hills of New-Lebanon, 
while the black clouds and the clusters of vapour hung 
over the tops and around the sides of the mountains, 
or, driven by the gusts of wind, swept with gloomy 
grandeur, along the frowning ridges. It appeared 
as if we were imprisoned for the day, and we solac- 
ed ourselves with the pleasant society, of the small 
but intelligent party, which w'e found at the Springs. 

About 10 o'clock, the rain so far ceased, that we 
lesumed, and afterwards continued our ride, al- 
ihough rain and sun-shine, and alternate currents of 
liot and cold air, made it a day of singular fluctua- 
tion. 

Stephen-Town, Nassau and Schodack, through 
w'hich w^e passed, presented nothing particularly in- 
teresting. At Greenbush, we observed the exten- 
sive barracks, erected during the late war, for the 
accommodation of the United States' troops ; being 
white, and standing upon elevated ground, they make 
a pleasing appearance — aside from the pensive sen- 
sations, associated with all military spectacles. Near 
the river, we examined an abandoned pit, dug for 



TOUR BETWElEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC, 



63 



coal, and a sulphureous mineral water ; the latter 
has been considerably spoken of, but, on the pres- 
ent occasion, was weak both in taste .and smell, ow- 
ing, I suppose, to the recent heavy rains, and to hs 
being left without any shelter to protect it from the 
weather. Some winters- since, a bottle of it which 
had been brought to me, happened to freeze, and 
broke, when the offensive hepatic gas filled the 
house to the no small annoyance of the family. 

From the barracks, we descended a considerable 
hill, before we reached the bartk of the river ; a horse- 
boat conveyed us over the Hudson, and before night, 
we were safely landed at a very comfortable house 
in the city of Albany. 



GEOLOGY. 



At New-Lebanon, a few miles east of the springs, 
the geology of the country undergoes a great change, 
and the whole tract, thence to Albany, is, without 
doubt, a transition country. Bluish grey transition 
lime stone, in immense strata, traversed by white 
veins of calcareous spar, is found at New-Lebanon. 
Its texture is nearly compact, its structure slaty, and 
its inchnation to the horizon considerable. Grau- 
wacke makes its appearance, about seven miles an 
the road towards Albany, and continues to be abun- 
dant at intervals. Common transition slate and a 
red slaty rock of a very fine, and indeed almost im- 
perceptible grain, apparently between a sand stone 



64 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

and a slate are abundant. The strata on the road 
are in many places, much decomposed. The slate 
thrown out of the pit at Greenbush, where the ex- 
cavation was made for coal, is evidently transition 
slate, having ofte« a tortuous appearance and a glis- 
tening surface, as if covered with a varnish or with 
plumbago. Itjs just such slate as is found in con- 
nection with the anthracite of Rhode-Island. It ap- 
pears therefore, that good bituminous coal is not to 
be expected at Greenbush ; the incombustible coal, 
the anthracite, may indeed be found, but it would 
be much less valuable than the other kind. 

I have several times had occasion to remark, tliat 
the picturesque features of a country depend very 
much on its geolo£;y. This remark is particularly 
verified by the country just spoken of. After leav- 
ing New-Lebanon, we soon lose that bold scenery 
which I have described, and which often so eminent- 
ly characterizes primitive countries. The transition 
lime-stone. I am aware, is occasionally Alpine in 
its appearance, as in the Peak of Derbyshire, and it 
is so in the New-Lebanon basin. 

But, the transition and slaty formation, which im- 
mediately succeeds, presents hills of moderate el- 
ovation, without ridges, peaks, defiles or deep hol- 
lows, and bounded by gentle outlines and large 
curves. It would be too much to say, that this is the 
invariable character of transition countries, but com- 
pared with the primitive in the immediate vicinity, 
I believe they usually possess this appearance. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 



65 



We must not, however, Insist with too much rigor 
upon the apphcatlon of the systematic arrangements 
of other countries to this. Many parts of our prim- 
itive formations, occupy a low level, and some of 
our primitive slaty rocks are not highly inclined in 
relation to the horizon."^ 

The ridges of greenstone trap at Greenfield, m 
Massachusetts, are higher than the granite of North- 
field and Montague, in the same vicinity, and at Lev- 
I crett, the granite is low, and the puddingstone rises 
to the heighth of five or six hundred feet, and far 
ahove the granite. The Sugar-Loaf Mountain, in 
the southern part of Deerfield, is composed of con- 
glomerate, and is five hundred feet high above the 
contiguous plain. Mount Toby, on the opposite 
side of the river in Sunderland, is between eight and 
nine hundred feet high, and these hills are higher 
than the greenstone, granite and other rocks in that 
region.f 

ALBANY. 

Albany contains from ten to twelve thousand in- 
habitants, and is the second city in the State (wc 
might almost say empire,) of New-York. Its lati- 
tude is 42° 38' N. ; it is one hundred and sixty miles 
from New-York, and one hundred sixty-four from 

* This is llie fncl with vast ledges of gneiss on the southern and 
eastern shores of lake Champlain. 

t See Mr. Hitchcock's account of Deerfield, Stc— American 
Journal of Science, ^c. — Vol I 



66 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,rEBEC. 

Boston. It rises, for the most part, rapidly from 
the river, and exhibits a very handsome appearance 
from the Greenbush side. The greater part of the 
population, however, is on the flat ground, immedi- 
ately contiguous to the river, where the Dutch, who 
founded the town, first commenced building, agree- 
ably to their established habits in Holland. In- 
stances are innumerable, where people continue 
from habit, what w^as at first begun from necessity, 
and this seems to have been the fact in the present 
case. The town extends about two miles north 
and south, on the river, and in the widest part, 
nearly one mile east and west. It is perfectly com- 
pact — closely built, and as far as it extends, has the 
appearance of a great city. It has numerous streets, 
lanes, and alleys, and in all of them, there is the 
same closeness of building, and the same city-like 
appearance. 

The principal streets and especially Market, 
State and Pearl streets, are spacious, and the hous- 
es in general, are handsome and commodious ; ma- 
ny are large, and a few are splendid. State-street 
is very wide, and rises rapidly from the river, up a 
considerably steep hill. The Capitol stands at the 
head of it. This is a large and handsome building 
of stone,* furnished with good rooms for the govern- 

*I could not but regret t!)at the tessellated marble pavement of 
the vestibule, otherwise very handsome^was shamefully dirtied by 
tobacco spittle : such a thing would not be suffered in Europe. 
It is however, unfortunately, only a sample of the too general 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEC. G7 

ment and courts of law; in the decorations and furn- 
iture of some of these apartments, there is a good 
degree of elegance, and even some splendor. — 
There is also a State Library, just begun ; it does 
not yet contain one thousand volumes, but they are 
w^ell selected, and a fund of five hundred dollars 
per annum is provided for its increase, besides three 
thousand dollars granted by the legislature to com- 
mence the collection. 

The view from the Balcony of the Capitol is 
rich and magnificent : the mountains of Vermont 
and of the Catskill are the most distant objects, and 
the banks of the river are very beautiful, on account 
of the fine verdure and cultivation, and of the nu- 
merous pretty eminences, w^hich bound its mead- 
ows. 

The Academy of Albany, situated on the Capi- 
tol Hill, is a noble building, of Jersey free stone. 

Although it has (as stated to me by Dr. B ) 

cost ninety thousand dollars, only the lower rooms 
are finished'. Schools are, however, maintained, in 
it, for nearly two hundred children, and it is pros- 
perous, under the able direction of Dr. T. R. Beck, 
and of several assistant teachers. 

This Institution was erected at the expence of 
the city of Albany, and is honourable to its munifi- 
cence, although a plainer building, which, when 

treatment of public buildings, and places in the United States, 
and constitutes no peculiar lojiic of reproach, in this instance ; but 
it is particularly offensive in so fine a building 



68 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC 

completely finished, would have cost much less 
money, would probably have been equally useful, 
and might have left them, out of their ninety thou- 
sand dollars, a handsome fund, in addition to what 
they now possess. 

There is a large and convenient brick building 
fbr a Lancasterian school, but I did not go into it. 

Among the interesting things of Albany is the 
seat of the late General Schuyler, situated quite in 
the country, at the south end of the town. It is 
memorable, principally, from its historical associa- 
tions. It was the seat of vast hospitality and the 
resort of the great men of the revolution. 

Even Gen. Burgoyne, with his principal officers, 
was lodged and entertained there, after his surren- 
der, although he had devastated Gen. Schuyler's 
beautiful estate at Saratoga, and burned his fine 
country seat. 

The house of the late Gen. Schuyler, is spacious 
and in its appearance, venerable; it has, long since, 
passed away from the family, and is now possessed 
by a furrier. 

At the opposite, or northern extremity of Alba- 
ny, and almost equally in the country, is situated 
the seat of the patroon, Gen. Stephen Van Rensse- 
laer. It is well known, that he possesses a vast pat- 
rimonial estate of forty miles square, lying in the 
vicinity of Albany, which has descended, unbroken, 
from his early American ancestors. Such a phe- 
nomenon, in a repubhcan country, is very remarka- 



TtOCR BETWEEN HARTFOIiD AND QUEBEC 69 

ble, and cannot fail, in spite of our early prejudices 
and the strong bias of national feelings, to excite a 
degree of admiration, if not of veneration. We are 
still more disposed to indulge these feelings, when 
we find the hereditary possession of such wealth, 
associated with distinguished excellence, in public 
and private life, with the most amiable and unas- 
suming manners, and with a princely, although dis- 
criminating liberality. 

The house (which was built by the father of the 
present patroon,) is a palace. It stands on the flat 
ground, by the river, and looks down market street, 
which here terminates abruptly. The house has in 
the rear, nothing but green fields and beautiful ru- 
ral scenes. It is embowered in groves, and shrub- 
bery, and reminded me powerfully, of some of the 
fine villas in Holland, to which, both in situation 
and appearance, it bears a strong resemblance. 

Among the gentry and professional and literary 
men of Albany, there are individuals of distinguish- 
ed eminence. But, eminent men, of our own time 
and country, are rather too near, for much minute- 
ness of delineation. Were it not for the restraint 
thus imposed by dehcacy, it would be a task, by no 
means ungrateful, to draw likenesses from the hfc, 
and to exhibit the combined effect of talent, learn- 
ing, and social virtues. An American in Europe, 
is free from this embarrassment, and should he 
there discover a mind of amazing vigor and activi- 
ty — always glowing — always on the wing — replete 

7 



70 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

with various and extensive knowledge, flowing out 
in the most rapid, ardent and impressive eloquence, 
w-hile simplicity and familiarity of manners were as- 
.^ociated with a high minded integrity, and indepen- 
dence, he w^ould fearlessly pronounce the possessor 
of such quahties an original and captivating man. 

Albany is the great thoroughfare and resort of 
the vast western regions of the State ; its streets are 
verv bustlins^ ; it is said that two thousand w^asEons 
sometimes pass up and down State-street in a day ; 
it must hereafter become a great inland city. 

It stands near the head of sloop navigation and 
of tide water : sloops of eighty tons come up to the 
town, besides the steam-boats of vastly greater ton- 
nage, but of a moderate draught of water. 

In addition to the public buildings, that have been 
already mentioned, Albany has a City-Hall, a Jail, 
an Aims-House, a State Arsenal, two Market-Hous- 
es, four Banks, a Museum, eleven houses of public 
worship, and a public Library containing about four 
thousand volumes.* 

The private library of Chancellor Kent, does 
honour to him and to learning. It contains between 
two and three thousand volumes of choice books. 
The collection on jurisprudence, embraces not only 
the Enghsh, but the civil and French law. It con- 
tains Latin, Greek, English and French Classics — 
belles lettres—history— biography—travels, and books 
in most branches of human learning. The numerous 
* Worcester's Gazetteer. 



TOUR BETWEEN^ HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 71 

manusciipt remarks and annotations, on the blank 
ieaves and margins of tho books, evince that they 
are not a mere pageant, and at a future day will form 
some of the most interesting of our literary rehes. 

The situation of Albany is salubrious, and emi- 
nently happy, in relation to the surrounding coun- 
try, which is populous and fertile. No one can 
estimate the importance of the regions west, which, 
in their progressive increase, and aided by the stu- 
pendous canal, now in progress, must pour a great 
part of their treasures through this channel. 

Albany has been memorable in American histo- 
ry. It was the rendezvous, and the point of de- 
parture, for most of those armies, which, whether 
sent by the mother country, or, raised by the colo- 
nies themselves, for the conquest of the Gallo- 
American dominions, and of the savages, so often, 
during the middle periods of the last century, exci- 
ted, and more than once, disappointed the hopes of 
the empire. It was scarcely less conspicuous in the 
same manner, during the war of the revolution and 
during the late war with Great Britain. Few places, 
on this side of the Atlantic, have seen more of mar- 
tial array, or heard more frequently the dreadful 
" note of preparation." Still, (except perhaps in 
some of the early contests, with the Aborigines) it 
has never seen an enemy ; a hostile army has 
never encamped before it ; nor have its women and 
children ever seen " the smokp of an enemy's 
camp.'' 



72 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORT) AND QUEBEC. 

More than once, however, has a foreign enemyt 
after fixing his destination for Albany, been either 
arrested, and turned back in his career, or visited 
the desired spot in captivity and disgrace. 

The French invasions from Canada never came 
nearer than Schenectady.* In 1777, the porten- 
tous advances of the British armies from Quebec, 
and of the British fleets and armies, from New- 
York, threatening a junction at Albany, and filling 
the new States with alarm, and the Cabinet of St. 
James with premature exultation, met a most sig- 
nal discomfiture. 

Albany was the seat of the great convention, held 
in 1754, for the purpose of bringing about a con- 
federation of the Colonies, for their mutual def mce 
and general benefit, and it has been signalized, by 
not a few other meetings, for momentous public 
purposes. 

IVe passed a part of three days in Albany, and 
were not without strong inducements to protract our 
stay. The public houses are excellent, afford- 
ing every accommodation and com.fort, with that 
quiet and retirement, and that prompt civility, so 
commonly found in English Inns, and which, until 
within a few years, were so rare in those of Ameri- 
ca-. Polished and enlightened society, and the 
courtesies of hospitality held out still stronger at- 

* In InOO, Schenectady was suddenly assaulted, in the night, 
by (he Fifiich and Indians, and its miserable inhabitants either 
inassacred, or dragged, in the depth of winter, into captivity. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 73 

tractions, but our allotments of time did not permit 
us to remain any longer, and we hastened to set our 
faces towards the British dominions. 



BANKS OF THE HUDSON, ABOVE ALBANY. 

We determined to go by Whitehall, as we wish- 
ed to avail ourselves, of the rapid and comfortable 
conveyance, to the confines of Canada, now estab- 
lished on Lake Champlain. Being unwilling how- 
ever, to pass rapidly by, or entirely to avoid, all 
the interesting objects on the road, we adopted such 
an arrangement, as might permit us to take the 
banks of the Hudson and Lake George in our 
route. Indeed, from Albany, upon the course pro- 
posed, every part of our way was to be over classic- 
al ground. History sheds a deeper interest over 
no portion of the North American States. He who 
venerates the virtues and the valour, and commis- 
serates the sufferings of our fathers, and he, w^ho 
views, with gratitude and reverence, the deliveran- 
ces which heaven has wrought for this land, will 
tread with awe, on every foot of ground between 
Albany and the northern lakes. 

We w^ere obliged, on this occasion, to deny our- 
selves a vish to Schenectady, and its rising literary 
institution, and to the waters of Ballston and Sara- 
toga. Leaving them therefore to the left, we pro- 
ceeded along the banks of the Hudson, principally 
on the western shore. 



T4 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

This is a charming ride. The road is very good, 
and absokitely without a hill ; the river, often placid 
and smooth, but sometimes disturbed by a rocky 
bottom, is almost constantly in sight, and flows 
through beautiful meadows, which are commonly 
bounded, at small distances from the Hudson, by 
verdant hills, of moderate height, and gentle de- 
clivity. The strata of rocks are, almost invariably, 
the transition slate. They present scarcely any 
variety. The direction of the strata is so nearly 
that of the river, that they form but an inconsidera- 
ble angle with it ; they often protrude their edges 
into view, because they have a very high inclination 
to the horizon, apparently about 45°,^ or, perhaps 
in some instances, a few degrees less. The rock is 
easily broken up, and reduced to small fragments ; 
and therefore forms an excellent material for the 
roads. The banks of the river frequently present a 
natural barrier, formed by the same kind of rock. 
Nearly six miles from Albany, we crossed the river 
into Troy. 

SINGULAR HORSE FERRY-BOAT. 

The ferry-boat is of most singular construction. 
A platform covers a wide flat boat. Underneath 
the platform, there is a large horizontal solid wheel, 
which extends to the sides of the boat ; and there 

* J had DO opportunity to judge, except by the eye, as we vnde 
fclonj; 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. Id 

the platform, or deck, is cut through, and removed, 
so as to afford siifiicient room, for two horses to 
stand on the flat surface of the wheel, one horse on 
each side, and parallel to the gunwale of the boat. 
The horses are harnessed, in the usual manner for 
P teams — the whiffle trees being attached to stout 

iron bars, fixed horizontally, at a proper height, into 
posts, which are a part of the fixed portion of the 
boat. The horses look in opposite directions, one 
to the bow, and the other to the stern ; their feet 
lake hold of channels, or grooves, cut in the wheels, 
in the direction of radii; they press forward, and, al- 
though they advance not, any more than a squirrel, in 
a revolving cage, or than a spit dog at his w^ork, their 
feet cause the horizontal wheel to revolve, in a direc- 
tion opposite to that of their own apparent motion ; this, 
by a connection of cogs, moves two vertical wheels, 
one on each wing of the boat, and these, being con- 
structed hke the paddle wheels of steam-boats, pro- 
duce the same effect, and propel the boat forward. 
The horses are covered by a roof, furnished with 
curtains, to protect them in bad weather; and do 
HOt appear to labour harder than common draft 
horses, with a heavy load. 

The inventor of this boat, is Mr. Langdon, of 
Whitehall, and it claims the important advantages of 
simphcity, cheapness and effect. At first view, 
the labour appears like a hardship upon the horses, 
but, probably this is an illusion, as it seems very im- 
material to their comfort, whether they advance with 



76 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 

their load, or cause the basis, on which they labour, 
to recede. 



TROY, LANSINGBURGH, AND WATERFORD. 

Troy, six miles north of Albany, is a beautiful 
city, handsomely built, and regularly laid out ; its 
appearance is very neat ; it stands principally on 
the flat ground, by the Hudson — contains five thou- 
sand inhabitants — a court-house, jail, market-house, 
and two banks, a public library, a Lancasterian 
school, and five places of public worship. It has 
an intelligent and polished population, and a large 
share of wealth. A number of its gentlemen have 
discovered their attachment to science, by the in- 
stitution of a Lyceum of Natural History, w^hich, 
fostered by the activity, zeal, and intelligence of its 
members, and of its lecturer, Mr. Eaton, promises 
to be a public benefit, and to elevate the character 
of the place. 

Near it, on the opposite side of the river, are ex- 
tensive and beautiful barracks, belonging to the 
United States, with a large park of artillery. Be- 
low the town, are fine mill seats, on which are al- 
ready established, several important manufactures, 
for which kind of employments, Troy appears very 
favourably situated. Small sloops come up to this 
town, which, for size, and importance, is the third, 
or fourth in the state. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 77 

We had to regret that the arrangements of our 
journey did not permit us to pass as much time in 
Troy, as, under other circumstances, would have 
been both useful and agreeable. 

Lansingburgh, through which we passed, three 
miles north of Troy, is inferior to it in the number 
and quality of its buildings. Its population is not 
far from two thousand. It is a large and handsome 
settlement, situated, principally, on one street, and 
has an academy, a bank, and four- places of public 
w^orship. Sloops come up to this place, and it en- 
joys a considerable trade. 

It was formerly more flourishing, than at present. 
Troy has, for a good many years, gained the pre- 
eminence, and seems likely to retain it. 

Waterford is a pretty village, of one thousand in- 
habitants, and stands on the western bank of the 
Hudson, at its confluence with the Mohawk, where 
several islands, producing the appearance of several 
mouths, give diversity to a very beautiful scene. It 
is ten miles north of Albany. From the Lan- 
singburgh side, we crossed into it, over a commodi- 
ous bridge. The name of this place, was formerly 
Half-Moon point. It is memorable, as having been 
the most southern point, to wdiich the American 
army, under General Schuyler, retreated, before 
the then victorious General Burgoyne. In the con- 
tiguous islands, in the mouth of the Mohawk, they 
took their stand, and Avere preparing to form a 
■ Worcester's Gazetteer. 



78 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBFX. 

camp, so strong, that their enemy wouKl not he able 
to force it. This was in August, 1777. On the 19th 
of that month, General Schuyler was superceded in 
command by General Gates. Colonel Morgan's re- 
giment of riflemen, dispatched from the main army 
by General Washington, arrived on the 23d ; and 
on the Sth of September, the army again turned 
northward, and marched to Stillwater, to face Gene- 
ral Burgoyne. From this place, therefore, we are to 
pass over the most interesting scones of that cam- 
paign. 

GENERAL BURGOYNE'S EXPEDITION. 

Of that momentous period, I am not now about 
to- re-write the history, which may be found, per- 
haps, sulficiently detailed, in various authors.* But, 
in travelhng over ground, which has been the scene 
of memorable actions, it is both instructive and in- 
teresting, to advert concisely, to some of the riiost 
prominent events. 

In May, 1775, Ticonderoga, and Crown Point, 
and the small marine force on the lake, had been 
taken by surprise, by the Americans, led by Colonels 
Allen and Arnold, and thus, the command of the 
lakes George and Champlain, had been acquired 

^Ramsay's History of the AiiiPiican Revolution, Gordon's His- 
tory, Marsiiall's Life of Washington, Wilkinson's Memoirs, An- 
nual Register, Burgoyne's State of the EspeditJon from Criip- 
da, &:c. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 79 

without bloodshed, and with comparatively little 
effort. 

This opened the way for the invasion of Canada, 
which was undertaken, in form, in the summer of 
1775, it being supposed that the Canadians were 
disaffected to the British government, and needed 
nothing, but the appearance of an American army, 
to induce a general revolt. 

Accordingly, in September, 1775, General Schuy- 
ler, with General Montgomery, proceeded to the So- 
rcl river, and took post at the Isle-aux-Noix, eight or 
nine miles above St. Johns, and eleven below the 
egress of the river from Lake Champlain. 

General Schuyler falling sick, the command devol- 
ved on General Montgomery, who, in the course of 
afew weeks, reduced the forts of St. Johns and 
Chambly, on the river Sorel, and captured Mon- 
treal, and the towns of Sorel, and the Trois Revie- 
res, on the St. Lawrence. Early in December, he 
formed a junction with General Arnold, who, in No- 
vember, arrived at Point Levi, opposite to Quebec, 
with the little army which he commanded, (having 
traversed the hideous wilderness between the Ken- 
nebec and St. Lawrence rivers,) and the two ar- 
mies united, scarcely equalling one thousand men, 
proceeded, in due form, to invest Quebec. 

The siege, from the want of heavy cannon, prov- 
ing ineffectual, they made a desperate assault, on 
the last day of December. This terminated in the 
death of Montgomery, and the defeat of the enter- 



80 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

prise ; the army, however, kept its ground, in the 
vicinity of Quebec, till spring, and maintained, part- 
ly a siege, and partly a blockade of the place. 

On the return of spring, and the arrival of British 
reinforcements, the American army gradually retir- 
ed up the St. Lawrence ; and, although largely re- 
inforced, from time to time, till it eventually amount- 
ed to eight thousand men, it was not able to retain 
possession of the country ; but, by degrees, after 
various conflicts, more or less important, relinquish- 
ed all that had been gained, by so much elTort and 
blood. 

In June, 1776, the evacuation of Canada was 
complete, and 'the great objects, originally in view, 
of uniting Canada to the states, and of preventing 
invasion from that quarter, were entirely defeated. 
Still, the Americans held the command of the lakes, 
and Sir Guy Carleton, who commanded in Canada, 
made such astonishing efforts to prepare a navy, 
that, by the autumn of 1776, he had a force much 
superior to that of the Americans. 

A desperate conflict ensued, in October of the 
same year ; and General Arnold, who commanded 
the American flotilla, although he did every thing, 
which valour could accomplish, witnessed the com- 
plete destruction of this little navy. 

Thus the principal obstacles, that prevented the 
invasion of the new States, from Canada, were re- 
moved, and the tide of war, with a powerful reflux, 
was soon to roll back from the North. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORli AND (QUEBEC. 81 

The troops, destined for the intended invasion, 
were ah'eady in Canada, and General Burgoyne, their 
future commajider, returned to England in the au- 
tumn of 1776, to digest the plan of the intended 
campaign. By an exertion of arbitrary authority, 
he was made to supercede General Sir Guy Carleton, 
who had commanded, with much ability, during the 
preceding campaign, and whose only fault, in the 
view of the English ministry, was, probably, his 
humanity and clemency to the Americans ; his 
magnanimity, however, led him still to do every 
thing in his power lo forward the service. In the 
spring of 1777, General Burgoyne returned to Cana- 
da, took the command, and the armament proceeded 
on its destination. 

It was led by accomplished and experienced ofti- 
cers ; — it was furnished with a most formidable train 
of brass artillery, and with all the apparatus, stores, 
and equipments, which the nature of the service 
required, and which the art of man had invented. 
Veteran corps of the best troops of Britain and 
Germany, formed almost the whole of this dreaded 
army, while Canadians, and American loyahsts, fur- 
nished it with rangers, scouts, and spies, and a nu- 
merous array of savages, with their own dress, and 
weapons, and with their own characteristic ferocity, 
increased the terrors of its approach. It numbered, ac- 
cording to common estimation, ten thousand strong, 
including every description of force ; an army, which, 
considering the theatre of action, was equal to ten 

8 



82 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QtEBEC. 

limes that miniber in the ordinary wars of Europe. 
ft is probable, however, that this force was some- 
what overrated, by the Americans, as the regular 
troops did not exceed, (according to the statement 
of the British officers,) seven thousand men. Un- 
molested in its progress, from St. John's, up the 
lake, it landed and invested Ticonderoga on the 
lirst and second days of July. 

This post, the key of the North, had not been at- 
tempted by Sir Guy Carleton, after the destruction 
of the American flotilla, in the preceding October. 
It had, in the mean time, been strengthened by ad- 
ditional works, and men, and the command of it 
committed to General St. Clair, an officer of the high- 
est standing. The country looked to him for a vig- 
orous defence, and expected that he would stem the 
tide of invasion, and fix bounds to its proud bil- 
lows. But, that country, little knew" the really fee- 
ble, and ill provided state of the garrison, and its 
utter incompetency, to contend with the formidable 
army by w^hich it was now invested. Had 'it been 
even much stronger than it was, its strength would 
have been rendered unavailing, by the unexpected 
occupancy of Sugar Loaf Hill, or Mount Defiance, 
hitherto deemed inaccessible, and equally neglect- 
ed, by iall previous commanders, whether French, 
British or Americans, and had the latter now 
thought proper to possess it, they could not have 
spared troops for the purpose. From this completely 



TO¥R BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 83 

commanding, and very contiguous position,^ General 
Burgoyne was already prepared, to pour down into 
the garrison, a certain and deadly fire from his ar- 
tillery ; while, not an effective shot could be re- 
turned. 

The Eagle, perched in the covert of the rock, 
was poising -his wings to dart upon the de- 
fenceless prey, that was crouching beneath him, 
and nothing but precipitate flight could save the 
victim. Accordingly, on the night of the fifth of 
July, Ticonderoga was abandoned : the baggage, 
stores, hospital, ordnance and moveable provisions 
were dispatched to Skeensborough, by water, in the 
little American flotilla, while the main body of the 
garrison, having crossed the lake to Fort Indepen- 
dence, defiled to the left, into Vermont. They 
were closely pursued by a detachment of the British, 
under General Frazer, and of the Germans under 
General Reidesel, who, the next day, brought them 
to action, and the obstinate and sanguinary conflicts 
at Hubberton, evinced, that although in retreat, they 
were still very formidable. This little army led by 
General St. Clair, after a circuitous march, reached 
the Hudson, at Batten Kill, and soon joined General 
Schuyler, who, with the main army, was a few 
miles above, at Fort Edward. General Burgoyne, 
with the great body of the British troops, proceed- 

* Only one thousand four liundied yards, from Ticonderoga, 
and one (liousand five hundred from Mount Independence, on 
the opposite shore. — (General Burgoyne.) 



84 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

ed, in pursuit of his enemy, up the lake, to Skeens- 
borough, and destroyed the American flotilla, bag- 
gage and stores, while General Philips with most of 
the stores of General Biirgoyne, went up lake 
George, to Fort George, situated at its head. Gen- 
eral Schuyler's armv continued to retreat, down the 
Hudson, to Saratoga and Stillwater, and, at last. 
to VanShaick's island, in the mouth of the Mohawk, 
where it took post, on the eighteenth of August. 

From Skeensborough, General Burgoyne, with 
extreme difficulty, and after several weeks of severe 
labour, and one considerable battle near fort Anne, 
cleared the passage to Fort Edward ; for General 
Schuyler, in consequence of General Burgoyne's 
halting, nearly three weeks, at Skeensborough, had 
time to throw very formidable obstructions in his 
way. He felled innumerable trees into Wood 
Creek, and across the roads, by Fort Anne; he de- 
molished bridges, and by every other means in his 
power, so impeded his march, that the British army 
did not arrive at Fort Edward, on the Hudson, till 
the 30th of July. A junction was at length formed 
at this place, betw^een the main body, and the divi- 
sion that went by lake George. 

In order to enable General Burgoyne to move 
down the Hudson, it was necessary to transport the 
stores, boats and ammunition, a distance of sixteen 
miles, over a very difficult country, from Fort 
George to Fort Edward. But still on the fifteenth 
of August, there was at Fort Edward, only four days' 
provision in advance. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 85 

On the sixteenth, Colonel Baum, who with his 
Germans, had been detached by Burgoyne, to seize a 
magazine of stores at Bennington, in Vermont, and 
to countenance the loyalists in that quarter, was to- 
tally defeated and slain, by General Stark ; most of 
his detachment were either killed or made prisoners; 
and Colonel Breyman, who had been sent to succour 
Baum, and who arrived on the same ground, a few 
hours after the battle, was also defeated, and with 
extreme difficulty, regained the main army with the 
greater part of his troops. 

In the mean time. Colonel St. Leger, in conse- 
quence of an arrangement, made in England, had 
proceeded, early in August, with an army of British 
and Indians, to attack Fort Stanwix, called also Fort 
Schuyler, on the Mohawk. This was intended to 
operate, as a diversion in favour of Burgoyne; to 
distract the Americans, and, in case of success, to 
bring down a powerful force, upon their flank. 

This expedition was attended with some Guccess, 
in the defeat of Colonel Herkimer, who fell into an 
ambuscade, while advancing with the militia, of the 
vicinity, to relieve the Fort ; he was slain, with ma- 
ny of his party ; but a successful sally from the 
Fort — the reported advance of General Arnold, with 
a force greatly magnified by the artful representations 
of some friendly Indians, and the fears and fickle- 
ness of the savages, in the British army, eventually 
defeated St. Leger's expedition, and caused him to 
retreat, in extreme confusion and distress. 
8* 



86 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

Thus, General Burgoyne was disappointed of any 
collateral aid, from St. Leger, and the signal defeat 
at Bennington, not only deprived him of any supply 
of provisions, from that source, but lost him a sixth 
part of the regular troops in his army, and revealed 
the miportant secret, that regular troops could be 
beaten by mihtia. These events revived the cour- 
age of the Americans, ^ave them time to rally and 
to recruit their armies, and very materially embar- 
rassed and retarded the movements of General Bur- 
goyne. 

To retreat was to abandon the objects of his ex- 
pedition, and to disappoint the expectations of his 
government; to advance, although with increasing 
diriiculties, and dangers, was therefore the only al- 
ternative. Accordingly, on the thirteenth and four- 
teenth of September, he passed the Hudson river, 
on a bridge of boats, not far from Fort Miller,' 
and advanced, without any material opposition, to 
Saratoga and Stillwater, till, on the seventeenth, 
his advanced guard was within four miles of the 
American army, now returning northward. On the 
eighteenth, the ft-onts of the two armies were al- 
most in contact, and some skirmishing ensued, but 
without bringing on a general engagement. 

Thus, we have passed in very rapid review, the 
principal events, ivhich preceded, and induced the 
crisis of General Burgoyne's expedition. The two 
armies were now so situated that the catastrophe 



TOUR BETWEEiN' HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 87 

could not long be averted, and the four succeeding 
weeks, were pregnant with dangers and difficulties, 
and fruitful in the waste of human life. 



We had so arranged our journey, as to lodge at 
Stillwater, and we were even desirous to stay in the 
very house, which in the plans, accompanying Gen- 
eral Burgoyne's " State of the expedition from 
Canada," is called " Swords' house." 

This small house, which is still in tolerable re- 
pair, and is now kept as a tavern, was, for some 
time, the British head quarters, and hospital, and 
was rendered very memorable by the events which 
happened in and near it. 

We arrived, at night fall, in the midst of a hard 
rain ; obtained the refreshments we needed, and 
made ourselves comfortable for the night. Willing 
to arrest the impressions of the moment, I wrote 
down such thoughts as the scene suggested. 

SWORDS' HOUSE AT STILL\YATEK— Ten o'clock at night 

We are now on memorable ground. Here, much 
precious blood was shed, and now, in the silence 
and solitude of a very dark and rainy night — -the 
family asleep, and nothing heard but the rain and 
the Hudson, gently murmuring along, I am writing 
in the very house ; and my table stands, on the very 



88 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

spot in the room where General Frazer breathed 
his last, on the eighth of October, 1777. 

He was mortally wounded in the last of the two 
desperate battles fought on the neighbouring heights, 
and, in the midst of the conflict, was brought to this 
house, by the soldiers. Before me lies one of the 
bullets, shot on that occasion ; they are often found, 
in ploughing the battle field. 

Blood is asserted, by the people of the house, 
to have been visible here, on the floor, till a very 
recent period. 

General Frazer was high in command, in the Brit- 
ish army, and was almost idolized by them : they had 
the utmost confidence in his skill and valour, and 
that the Americans entertained a similar opinion of 
him, is sufiicientiy evinced, by the following anec- 
dote, related to me at Ballston Springs, in 1797, by 
tho Hon. Richard Brent, then a member of Con- 
stress, from Virginia,* who derived the fact from 
General Morgan's own mouth. 

In the battle of October the seventh, the last pitch- 
ed battle, that was fought between the two armies, 
General Frazer, mounted on an iron grey horse, was 
very conspicuous. He was all activity, courage, 
and vigilance, riding from one part of his division 
to another, and animating the troops by his exam- 
ple. Wherever he was present, every thing pros- 
pered, and, when confusion appeared in any part of 

* S'lace deceased 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 89 

the line, order and energy were restored by his ar- 
rival. 

Colonel Morgan,* with his Virginia rifiennen, was 
immediately opposed to Frazer's division of the 
army. 

It had been concerted, before the commence- 
ment of the battle, that while the New-Hampshire 
and the New-York troops, attacked the British left, 
Colonel Morgan with his regiment of Virginia rifle- 
men, should make a circuit so as to come upon the 
British right, and attack them there. In this attempt, 
he was favoured by a woody hill, to the foot of 
which the British right extended. When the at- 
tack commenced on the British left, " true to his 
purpose, Morgan, at this critical moment, poured 
down, like a torrent from the hill, and attacked the 
right of the enemy in front and flank. "f The right 
wing soon made a movement to support the left, 
which was assailed with increased violence, and 
while executing this movement, General Frazer re- 
ceived his mortal wound. ^ 

In the midst of this sanguinary battle. Colonel 
Morgan took a few of his best riflemen aside ; men 
in whose fidelity, and fatal precision of aim, he 
could repose the most perfect confidence, and said 
to them; "that gallant officer is General Frazer; I 

* Afterwards General Morgan — the liiM'o of the battle of the 
Cowpens, and distinguished through the n'hole war, by a series o( 
Ihe most important services. 

f Wilkin'^on's Memoirs, Vol. T. p. 268. 



90 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

admire and respect him, hut it is necessary that he 
should die — take your stations in that wood, and do 
your duty." Within a few moments General Frazer 
fell, mortally wounded.* 

How far, such personal designation is justifiable, 
has often been questioned, but those who vindicate 
war at all, contend, that to shoot a distinguished offi- 
cer, and thus to accelerate the conclusion of a bloody 
battle, operates to save lives, and that it is, morally, 
no worse, to kill an illustrious, than an obscure in- 
dividual ; a Frazer, than a common soldier ; a 
NELS0N,f than a common sailor. But, there is 
something very revolting to humane feelings, in a 
mode of warfare, which converts its ordinary chances 
into a species of military execution. Such instan- 
ces, were, however, frequent, during the campaign of 
General Burgoyne ; and his aid. Sir Francis Clark, 
and many other British officers, w^ere victims of 
American marksmanship. 

The Baroness Reidesel, the lady of Major Gen- 
eral the Baron Reidesel, in some very interesting 
letters of hers, published at Berhn, in 1800, and in 
part republished in translation, in Wilkinson's me- 
moirs, states that she, with her three little children, 
(for she had, with this tender charge, followed the 

* He was supported on his horse by (wo officers; till he reached 
his tent ; he said that he saw the man who shot hira, that he was a 
rifleman, and posted in a tree. 

I jVclson was killed by a sharp shooter from the tops of tV:f 
Sr.ntissima Triaidada 



^ 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 91 

fortunes of her husband, across the Atlantic, and 
through the horrors of the campaign) occupied this 
house, which was the only refuge, within protection 
of the British army. The rooms which it contain- 
ed remain, to this day, as they then were, although 
some other rooms have been since added. 

The house stood at that time, perhaps one hun- 
dred yards from the river, at the foot of the hill ; it 
was afterwards removed to the road side, close by 
the river, where it now stands. 

The Baroness, with her little children, occupied 
the room, in which we took tea, and General Fra- 
zer, when brought in wounded, was laid in the other 
room. In fact, as it was the only shelter that re- 
mained standing, it was scon converted into a hos- 
pital, and many other wounded and dying officers 
were brought to this melancholy refuge. 

Thus a refined and delicate lady, educated in all 
the elegance of affluence and of elevated rank, with 
her little children, was compelled to witness the 
agonies of bleeding and dying men, among whom, 
some of her husband's and of her own particular 
friends, expired before her eyes. She imparted to 
them of her few remaining comforts and soothed 
them by offices of kindness. This distinguished 
lady was not without female companions, who 
shared her distresses, or felt with keenness their 
own misfortunes. Among them was lady Harriet 
Ackland, the wife of Major Ackland, wiio com- 
manded the British grenadiers. Every thing that 



92 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

has been said of the Baroness Reidesel, will apply 
to her. News came, from time to time, from the 
heights, that one officer and another was killed, and 
among the rest that Major Ackland was desperately 
wounded, and a prisoner ^vith the enemy. I^Bl 
Major, (called in General Burgoyne's narrative,^! 
Colonel) Ackland, had been wounded in the battle 
of Hubberton, but had recovered, and resumed the 
command of the Grenadiers. He was wounded, 
the second time, in the battle of October 7, and 
found by General (then Colonel Wilkinson,) who 
gives the following interesting statement of the occur- 
rence :* "with the troops, I pursued the hard 

pressed, flying enemy, passing over killed and woun- 
ded, until I heard one exclaim, 'protect me. Sir, 
against this boy.' Turning my eyes, it was my 
fortune to arrest the purpose of a lad, thirteen or 
fourteen years old, in the act of taking aim at a 
wounded officer, who lay in the angle of a worm 
fence. Inquiring his rank, he answered, ' I had the 
honour to command the Grenadiers ;" of course I 
knew him to be Major Ackland, who had been 
brought from the field to this place, on the back of 
a Captain Shrimpton, of his own corps, under a 
heavy fire, and was deposited here, to save the lives 
of both.^t 

* Memoirs, Vol. I. pa. 271. 

t Anbury relates, (Travels, vol. I. pa/»394,) that after Ackland 
was deposited, by Captain Shriuipton, he offered fifly guineas \o 
the Grenadiers, who were ilying by him, if any one of then), would 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ttUi^BEC. 93 

*'I dismounted, took him by the hand and ex- 
pressed hopes that he was not badly wounded; * not 
badly,' replied this gallant officer, and accomplished 
gentleman, * but very inconveniently, I am shot 
through both legs; will you, Sir, have the good- 
ness, to have me conveyed to your camp ?' I direct- 
ed my servant to alight, and we Hfted Ackland into 
his (the servant's) seat, and ordered him to be con- 
ducted to head quarters." 

Two other ladies, who were in the same house 
with madam Reidesel, received news, the one, that 
her husband was wounded, and the other, that hers 
was slain ; and the Baroness herself, expected, eve- 
ry moment to hear similar tidings; for the Baron's 
duties, as commander in chief, of the German troops, 
required him to be frequently exposed to the most 
imminent perils. 

The Baroness Reidesel, gives, in her narrative, 
the following recital, respecting General Frazer's 
death : — "severe trials, awaited us, and on the 7th of 
October, our misfortunes began ; I was at breakfast, 

convey him into camp; that a very stout Grenadier, undertook 
it, but being overtaken by the Americans, both were made pris- 
oners. Anbury's book, however, although it contains maiiy inter- 
esting occurrences, which so far as they are stated, on his own 
knowledge, are probably related with correctness — is evidently a 
made up work, and what is curious enough, many pages of it, and 
by fur the most important parts, are taken, almost verbatim, from 
General Burgoyne's " State of the Expedition from Canada" — 
although that work was not published, till three years after Anbu- 
ry's letters are dated. 

9 



94 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^y£BEC. 

with my husband, and heard that somethmg was m- 
tended. On the same day, I expected the Gener- 
als Burgoyne, Phihps and Frazer, to dine with us. 
I saw a great movement among the troops ; my hus- 
band told me, it was a mere reconnoissance, which 
gave me no concern, as it often happened. I walk- 
ed out of the house, and met several Indians, in their 
war dresses, with guns in their hands. When I ask- 
ed them where they were going, they cried out War! 
War! (meaning that they were going to battle.) — 
This filled me with apprehensions, and I had scarce- 
ly got home, before I heard reports of cannon and 
musketry, which grew louder by degrees, till at last, 
the noise became excessive. About 4 o'clock in 
the afternoon, instead of the guests, whom I expect- 
ed. General Frazer was brought, on a litter, mortally 
wounded. The table, which was already set, was 
instantly removed, and a bed placed in its stead, for 
the wounded General. I sat trembling in a corner; 
the noise grew louder, and the alarm increased : 
the thought that my husband might, perhaps, be 
brought in, wounded in the same manner, was terri- 
ble to me, and distressed me exceedingly. 

General Frazer said to the surgeon, ' tell me if 
my wound is mortal, do not flatter me.' The ball 
had passed through his body, and unhappily for the 
General, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by 
which the stomach was distended, and the ball, as 
the surgeon said, had passed through it, I heard 
him often exclaim, with a sigh, * O, fatal ambi- 



tour between hartford and (quebec. 95 

tion! Poor General Burgoyne! O, mt poor 
WIFE I' He was asked if he had any request to make^ 
to which he replied, that ' if General Burgoyne 

WOULD PERMIT IT, HE SHOULD LIKE TO BE BURIEB 
AT 6 o'clock in THE EVENING, ON THE TOP OF A 
MOUNTAIN, IN A REDOUBT WHICH HAD BEEN BUILT 

THERE.' Towards evening, I saw my liusband 
coming ; then I forgot all my sorrows, and thanked 
God that he was spared to me." 

The German Baroness spent much of the night 
in comforting lady Harriet xickland, and in taking 
car© of her children, whom she had put to bed. Of 
herself she says — "I could not go to sleep, as I had 
General Frazer and all the other wounded gentle- 
men in my room, and I was sadly afraid, my chil- 
dren would awake, and by their crying, disturb the 
dying man, in his last moments, who often address- 
ed me, and apologised '/or the trouble he gave me,^ 
About 3 o'clock in the morning, I was told, he could 
not hold out much longer ; I had desired to be in- 
formed of the near approach of this sad crisis, and I 
then wrapped up my children in their clothes, and 
went with them into the room below. About eisiht 
o'clock in the morning, he died. After he was laid 
out, and his corpse wrapped up in a sheet, we came 
again into the room, and we had this sorrowful sight 
before us the whole day ; and, to add to the melan- 
choly scene, almost every moment some officer of 
my acquaintance was brought in wounded." 



Vi[) TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UliiBEC 



What a situation for delicate females — a small 
house, (illed with blecdins; and expirini; men — the 
battle roarins; and raging all around — little children 
to be soothed and protected, and female domestics, 
in despair, to be comforted — cordials and aids, such 
as were attainable, to he administered to the vvound- 
pd and dying — ruin impending over the army, and 
they knew not what insults, worse than death, might 
await themselves, from those whom they had been 
taught to consider as base, as well as cowardly. 

Both these illustrious females learned, not long 
after, a ditfcrent lesson. I have already remadied, 
that Major Ackland was wounded and taken pris- 
oner. His lady, with heroic courage, and exempla- 
ry conjugal tenderness, passed down the river, to 
our army, with a letter from General Burgoyne, to 
General Gates, and although somewhat detained on 
the river, because it was night when she arrived, and 
the centinel could not permit her to land, till he had 
received orders from his superior, she was, as soon 
as her errand was made known, received bv the Amer- 
icans, with the utmost respect, kindness, and delica- 
ry. Her husband, many years after the war, even 
lost his life, in a duel, which he fought with an offi- 
cer, who called the Americans cowards. Ackland 
espoused their cause, and vindicated it in this un- 
happy manner. 

General Burgoyne, in his '' State of the expedition 
from Canada," has mentioned, with much respect 
and feeling, the rase of lady Harriet Ackland. Tt- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOED AND Q,UErBEC. 97 

seems she came with her husband to Canada, early 
in the year 1776, and accompanied him through 
that campaign, in all the varieties of travelhng and of 
season, " to attend, in a poor hut, at ChambJy, up- 
on his sick bed." At the opening of the campaign 
of 1777, she, by the positive injunctions of her hus- 
band, remained at Ticonderoga, till, hearing of his 
being wounded at Castleton, she went over to him, 
and, after his recovery, persisted in following his 
fortunes, with no other vehicle, than a little two- 
wheeled tumbril, constructed in the camp on the 
Hudson. She, with the Major, was, on a particular 
occasion, near perishing in the flames, in conse- 
quence of their hut taking fire in the night. As the 
grenadiers, whom Major Ackland commanded, 
were attached to the advanced corps, this lady was 
exposed to all their fatigues, and to many of their 
perils, and was at last obliged, during the battle of 
the 7th of October, to take refuge " among the 
wounded and dying." 

With respect to her proposal, to go over to the 
American camp, to take care of her husband, General 
Burgoyne remarks,* " Though I was ready to be- 
lieve, (for 1 had experienced,) that patience and 
fortitude, in a supreme degree, were to be found, 
as well as every other virtue, under the most tender 
forms, I was astonished at this proposal. After so 
long an agitation of the spirits, exhausted, not only 

^ Slate of the expedition, Stc. page 128. 
9* 



98 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QITKBKC. 

for want of rest, but absolutely want of food, drench- 
ed in rains for twelve hours together, that a woman 
should be capable of delivering herself to the ene- 
my, probably in the night, and uncertain of what 
hands she might first fall into, appeared an eftbrt, 
above human nature. The assistance I was enabled 
to give, was small indeed ; I had not even a cup of 
wine to offer her ; but I was told, she had found 
from some kind and fortunate hand, a little rum and 
dirty water. All I could furnish to her, was an 
open boat, and a few lines, written upon dirty and 
wet paper, to General Gates, recommending her to his 

protection." " It is due to justice, at the 

close of this adventure, to say, that she was receiv- 
ed, and accommodated by General Gates, with all the 
humanity and respect, that her rank, her merits, 
and her fortunes deserved." 

I omit to quote General Burgoyne's statement, that 
lady Harriet Ackland was detained through the 
night in the open boat, because, we are now in- 
formed, on the authority of Generals Wilkinson* and 
Dearborn, that this was a total misrepresentation, 
although, probably, not originating with General Bur- 
goyne. It seems General Dearborn (then a Major,) 
commanded, at the post where the boat was hailed. 
As soon as the character of the lady was known, she 
was immediately provided with a comfortable apart- 
ment, and refreshments, and lire, ind, in the niorc- 

'Memoifs, Vol. I. p. 283. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 99 

Ing, was forwarded on her way to the camp. " Let 
such," adds General Burgoyne, "as are afiectcd by 
these circunristances of alarm, hardship, and danger, 
recollect that the subject of them was a woman, of 
the most tender and delicate frame ; of the gentlest 
manners ; habituated to all the soft elegancies, and 
refined enjoyments, that attend high bix'th and for- 
tune ; and far advanced in a state, in which the ten- 
der ca»es, always due to the sex, become indispen- 
sably necessary. Her mind alone was formed for 
such trials." 

Lady Reidesel, immediately on the surrender of 
the army, received on the spot, from General Schuy- 
ler, (and that spot was his own devastated estate,) 
the most kind and soothing attentions, which she and 
her children so eminently needed, and afterwards, 
in the family of this magnanimous and generous 
man, she experienced from Mrs. Schuyler and her 
daughters, all the attentions and sympathies of 
friendship. 

After the surrender, and the officers had gone 
over to General Gates' army. General Reidesel sent 
a message to his lady, to come to him with her chil- 
dren. She says in her narrative, "I seated myself 
once more, in my dear calash, and then rode 
through the American camp. As I passed on, I 
observed, (and this was a great consolation to me,) 
that no one eyed me with looks of resentment, but 
they all greeted us, and even shewed compassion in 
their countenances, at tlie sight of y- woman with 



100 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

small children. I was, I confess, afraid to go over 
to the enemy, as it was quite a new situation to me. 
When I drew near the tents, a handsome man ap- 
proached and met me, took my children from the 
calash, and hugged and kissed them, ivhich affected 
me almost to tears. " You tremble," said he, ad- 
dressing himself to me, " be not afraid." " No," 1 
answered, " you seem so kind and tender to my 
children, it inspires me with courage." He now 

led me to the tent of General Gates." "All 

the Generals remained to dine with General Gates." 
" The same gentleman who received me so kind- 
ly, now came and said to me, "You will be very 
much embarrassed to eat with all these gentlemen ; 
come with your children to my tent, where I will 
prepare for you a frugal dinner, and give it with a 
free will." I said, "you are certainly a hus- 
band AND A father, you havc shewn me so much 
kindness." 

" I now found that he vvas General Schuyler. He 
treated me with excellent smoked tongue, beef 
steaks, potatoes, and good bread and butter ! Nev- 
er could I have wished to eat a better dinner : I 
was content ; I saw all around me were so like- 
wise ; and what was better than all, my husband 
w^as out of danger! When we had dined, he told mc 
his residence was at Albany, and that General Bur- 
goyne intended to honour him as his guest, and in- 
vited myself and children to do so likewise. I ask- 
ed my husband how I should act ; he told me to 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 101 

accept the invitation." " Some days after 

this, we arrived at Albany, where we so often wish- 
ed ourselves; but, we did not enter it, as we ex- 
pected we shoidd, victors ! We were received by 
the good General Schuyler, his wife, and daughters, 
not as enemies, but kind friends ; and they treated 
us with the most marked attention and politeness, 
as they did General Burgoyne, who had caused 
General Schuyler's beautifully finished house to be 
burnt; in fact, they behaved like persons of exalted 
minds, w^ho determined to bury all recollection of 
their own injuries in the contemplation oi our mis- 
fortunes. General Burgoyne was struck with Gen- 
eral Schuyler's generosity, and said to him, '' You 
shew me great kindness, although I have done you 
much injury." " That was the fate of war " repli- 
ed the brave man, '^ let us say no more about it." 

Thus, not only General Burgoyne, but a number 
of the most distinguished officers of the army, in- 
cluding Baron Reidesel, and Major Ackland, and 
their ladies, wers actually lodged for weeks, and 
most hospitably entertained, in the house of the 
man, whose elegant villa at Saratoga, they had wan- 
tonly* burnt, and whose fine estate there they had 
spoiled. 

■X- •«• -K- -X- ^ ^ ii' 

"^ It wfis asserted, in juslificatioi), that the house was burnt to 
prevent its being a cover for the Amrricans, ard that the estate 
was ravaged in foraging. 



102 TOUR BETWEEN HARTrORD AND QUEBEC. 

Retiring at a late hour to my bed, it will be easi- 
ly perceived, that the tender and heroic ideas, as- 
sociated with this memorable house, would strongly 
possess my mind. The night was mantled in black 
clouds, and impenetrable darkness ; the rain, in- 
creasing, descended in torrents, upon the roof of 
this humble mansion ; the water, urged from the 
heights, poured with loud and incessant rumbling, 
through a neighbouring aqueduct ; and the Hud- 
son, as if conscious that blood had once stained its 
waters, and its banks, rolled along with sullen mur- 
murs ; — the distinguished persons, who, forty-two 
years since, occupied this tenement — the agonized 
females — the terrified imploring children — and the 
gallant chiefs, in all the grandeur of heroic suffering 
and death, were vividly present to my mind — all the 
realities of the night, and the sublime and tender 
images of the past, conspired to give my faculties 
too much activity for sleep, and I will not deny that 
the dawning light was grateful to my eyes ! 

THE BATTLE GROUND. 

The rain having ceased, I was on horseback at 
early dawn, with a veteran guide to conduct me to 
the battle ground. Although he was seventy-five 
years old, he did not detain me a moment ; in con- 
sequence of an appointment the evening before, he 
was waiting my arrival at his house, a mile below 
our inn, and, deeliDing any aid, he mounted a tall 



T©UR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 103 

liorse, from the ground. His name was Ezra Buel,* 
a native of Lebanon, in Connecticut, which place 
he left in his youth, and was settled here, at the 
time of General Burgoyne's invasion. He acted, 
through the whole time, as a guide to the American 
army, and was one of three, who were constantly 
employed in that service. His duty led him to be 
always foremost, and in the post of danger ; and he 
was, therefore, admirably qualified for my purpose. 

The two great battles, which decided the fate of 
Burgoyne's army, were fought, the first on the 19th 
of September, and the last, on the 7th of October, 
on Bemus' heights, and very nearly on the same 
ground, which is about two miles west of the river. 

The river is, in this region, bordered for many 
miles, by a continued meadow, of no great breadth ; 
upon this meadow, there was then, as there is now, 
a good road, close to the river, and parallel to it. 
Upon this road, marched the heavy artillery and 
baggage, constituting the left wing of the British ar- 
my, while the advanced corps of the light troops, 
forming the right wing, kept on the heights which 
bound the meadows. 

The American army was south and west of the 
British, its right wing on the river, and its left rest- 
ing on the heights. We passed over a part of their 
camp a Httle below Stillwater. 

* Called colloquially, in the neighbourhood, Major Bud, a rank 
which he never had in the army, but which was facetiously as- 
signed him, while in the service, by his brother guides. He is 
much respected as a worthy nan. 



104 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

A great part of the battle ground was occupied by 
lofty forest trees, principally pine, with here and 
there a few cleared fields, of which the most con- 
spicuous in these sanguinary scenes, was called 
Freeman's farm, and is so called in General Bur- 
goyne's plans. Such is nearly the present situation 
of these heights, only there is more cleared land ; 
the gigantic trees have been principally felled, but 
a considerable number remain, as witnesses to pos- 
terity ; they still shew the wounds, made in their 
trunks and branches, by the missiles of contending 
armies ; their roots still penetrate the soil, that was 
made fruitful by the blood of the brave, and their 
sombre foliage still murmurs, with the breeze, wdiich 
once sighed, as it bore the departing spirits along. 

My veteran guide, warmed by my curiosity, and 
recalling the feelings of his prime, led me, with 
amazing rapidity, and promptitude, over fences and 
ditches — through water and mire — through ravines 
and defiles — through thick forests, and open fields — 
and up and down very steep hills ; in short, through 
many places, where, alone, I would not have ven- 
tured ; but, it would have been shameful for me 
not to follow, wdiere a man of seventy-five would 
lead, and to reluctate at going, in peace, over the 
ground, which the defenders of their country, and 
their foes, once trod, in steps of blood. 

On our way to Freeman's farm, w^e traced the 
line of the British encampment, still marked by a 
breast work of logs, now rotten, but retaining their 



T.OUR BETWEEN HARTFORT) AND QriiBEC- 105 

forms ; they were, at the time, covered with earth, 
and the barrier between contending armies, is now 
a fence, to mark the peaceful divisions of agricul- 
ture. This breast work, I suppose to be a part of 
the line of encampment, occupied by General Bur- 
goyne, after the battle of the 19th of September, 
and which was stormed on the evening of the 7th of 
October. 

The old man shewed me the exact spot, where 
an accidental skirmish, between advanced parties, of 
the two armies, soon brought on the general and 
bloody battle of September 19. 

This was on Freeman's farm, a field which was 
then cleared, although surrounded by forest. The 
British picket here occupied a small house,"^ when a 
part of Colonel Morgan's corps fell in with, and im- 
mediately drove them from it, leaving the house al- 
most " encircled with their dead." The pursuing 
party almost immediately, and very unexpectedly, 
fell in with the British line, and were in part cap- 
tured, and the rest dispersed. 

This incident occurred at half past twelve o'clock; 
there was then an intermission till one, when the ac- 
tion was sharply renewed ; but it did not become gen- 
oral, till three, from which time it raged with unaba- 
ted fury till night. "The theatre of action" (saysGen- 

* Major Forbes, of llie British army, stales, that the AmericaR 
picket occupied the house : both facts might have been (rue at 
different periods of tlie affair. 

10 



108 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOKD AND (iUEBE*. 

eral Wilkinson,*) was such, that although the com- 
batants changed ground a dozen times, in the course 
of the day, the contest terminated on the spot where 
it began. This may be explained in a few words. 
The British line was formed on an eminence in a 
thin pine wood, having before it Freeman's farm, 
an oblong field, stretching from the centre towards 
its right, the ground in front sloping gently down to 
the verge of this field, which vv^as bordered, on the 
opposite side, by a close wood : the sanguinary 
scene lay in the cleared ground, between the emi- 
nence occupied by the enemy, and the wood just 
described ; the fire of our marksmen from this 
wood, was too deadly to be withstood, by the ene- 
my, in line, and when they gave wa}^ and broke, 
our men rushing from their covert, pursued them to 
the eminence, where, having their flanks protected, 
they rallied, and charging in turn, drove us back into 
the wood, from whence a dreadful fire would again 
force them to fall back ; and in this manner, did 
the battle fluctuate, like waves of a stormy sea, with 
alternate advantages for four hours, without one 
moment's intermission. The British artillery fell 
into our possession, at every charge, but we could 
neither turn the pieces upon the enemy nor bring 
them off; the wood prevented the last, and the 
want of a match the first, as the lintstock was invari- 
ably, carried off, and the rapidity of the transitions 
did not allow us time to provide one ; the slaugh- 
* Memoirs; Vol. I. p. 240. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^UEBPX. i T 

ter of this brigade of artillerists was remarkable, the 
Captain (Jones) and thirty-six men being killed or 
wounded out of forty-eight. It was truly a gallant 
conflict, in which death, by familiarity, lost his ter- 
rors, and certainly a drawn battle, as night alone 
terminated it : the British army keeping its ground 
in rear of the field of action, and our corps, when 
they could no longer distinguish objects, retiring to 
their own camp. Yet General Burgoyne claimed a 
victory." 

It had, however, wiu. respect to him, all the con- 
sequences of a defeat : his loss was between five 
and six hundred, while ours was bat litde more than 
half that number ; his loss was irreparable, ours' 
easily repaired, and in proportion to our entire ar- 
my, as well as absolutely, it was much less than his. 

The stress of the action, as regards the British, 
lay, principally on the twentietli, twenty-first and 
sixty-second regiments ; the latter which was five 
hundred strong, when it left Canada, was reduced 
to less than sixty men, and to four or five officers." 

Greneral Burgoyne states, that there was scarcely 
ever an interval of a minute in the smoke, when 
some British officer was not shot by the American 
riflemen, posted in the trees, in the rear and on the 
flank of their own line. A shot which was meant 
for General Burgoyne, severely wounded Captain 
Green, an Aid of General Phillips : the mistake 
was owing to the Captain's having a rich laced fur- 

* Gordon. 



108 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

niture to his saddle, which caused the marksman to 
mistake him for the General. 

Such was the ardor of the Americans, that, as 
General Wilkinson states, the wounded men, after 
having their wounds dressed, in many instances re- 
turned again into the battle. 

The battle of the seventh of October, w^as fought 
on the same ground, but it was not so stationary ; 
it commenced farther to the right, and extended, in 
its various periods, over more surface, eventually 
occupying not only Freeman's farm, but it was 
urged by the Americans, to the very camp of the 
enemy, which, towards night, was most impetuous- 
ly stormed, and in part carried. 

The interval between the nineteenth of Septem- 
ber, and the seventh of October, was one of great 
anxiety to both armies ; '* *not a night passed, (adds 
General Burgoyne,) without firing, and sometimes 
concerted attacks upon our pickets ; no foraging 
party could be made without great detachments to 
cover it ; it was the plan of the enemy to harrass 
the army, by constant alarms, and their superiority 
of numbers enabled them to attempt it, v/ithout fa- 
tigue to themselves. By being habituated to fire, 
our soldiers became indifferent to it, and were ca- 
pable of eating or sleeping when it was very near 
them ; but I do not believe that either officer or 
soldier ever slept during that Interval, without his 
clothes, or that any general officer or commander 
of a regiment, passed a single night, without being 
* State of the Espeditioa. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AlsD 4,UEBEC. 109 

upon his legs, occasionally, at different hours, and 
constantly, an hour before day light." 

The battle of the seventh was brought on by a 
movement of General Burgoyne, who caused one 
thousand five hundred men, with ten pieces of 
artillery, to march towards the left of the American 
army, for the purpose of discovering whether it was 
possible to force a passage ; or, in case a retreat of the 
royal army should become indispensable, to dislodge 
the Americans from their entrenchments, and also to 
cover a forage, which had now become pressingly 
necessary. It was about the middle of the after- 
noon, that the British were observed advancing, and 
the Americans, with small arms, lost no time in at- 
tacking the British grenadiers and artillery, although 
under a tremendous fire from the latter ; the battle 
soon extended along the whole line : Colonel Mor- 
gan, at the same moment, attacked, with his rifle- 
men, on the right wing; Colonel Ackland, the com- 
mander of the grenadiers, fell, wounded ; the gren- 
adiers were defeated, and most of the artillery ta- 
ken, after great slaughter. 

After a most sanguinary contest, of less than one 
hour, the discomfiture and retreat of the British be- 
came general, and they had scarcely regained their 
earap, before the lines were stormed with the great- 
est fury, and part of lord Balcarras' camp, was for a 
short time in our possession. 

I saw this spot, and also that where the Germans, 
under Colonel Breymen, fornpiing the right reserve 
10* 



110 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, 

of the army, were stormed, in their encampment, 
by General Learned, and Colonel Brooks, now 
Governour Brooks, of Massachusetts. General Ar- 
nold was wounded on this occasion ; Colonel Brey- 
man w^as killed ; and the Germans were ehher cap- 
tured, slain, or forced to retreat in the most precip- 
itate manner, leaving the British encampment on 
(he right, entirely unprotected, and liable to be as- 
sailed the next morning. All the British officers 
bear testimony to the valour and obstinacy of the 
attacks of the Americans. The fact was, the Brit- 
ish were sorely defeated, routed, and vigorously 
pursued to their lines, which, it seems probable, 
v/ould have been entirely carried by assault, had 
not darkness, as in the battle of the 19th, put an end 
to tlie sanguinary contest. It is obvious, from Gen- 
oral Burgoyne's own account, and from the testimo- 
ny of his officers, that this was a severe defeat ; and 
such an one as has rarely been experienced by a 
British army ; tliis arm}^ was reduced by it to the 
greatest distress, and nothing but night saved them 
from destruction. 

I was on the ground where the grenadiers, and 
where the artillery were stationed. " Here, upon 
this hill," (said my hoary guide,) "on the very 
spot w^here we now stand, the dead men lay, thicker 
than you ever saw sheaves on a fruitful harvest 
field." " Were they British, or Americans ?" 
•* Both," he replied, " but principally British." I 
-nppose that it is of this ground, that General Wil- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. Ill 

kinson remarks, it " presented a scene of compli- 
cated horror, and exultation. In the square space 
of twelve or fifteen yards, lay eighteen grenadiers, 
in the agonies of death; and three oflicers, propped 
up against stumps of trees, two of them mortally 
wounded, bleeding, and almost speechless." 

My guide, proceeding with his narrative, said, 
" there stood a British field piece, which had been 
twice taken, and re-taken, and finally remained in 
our possession : I was on the ground, and said to 
an American Colonel, who came up at the mo- 
ment, 'Colonel, we have taken this piece, and now 
we w^ant you to swear it true to America ;' so the 
Colonel swore it true, and we turned it around, and 
fired upon the British, with their own cannon, and 
w\X\\ their own ammunition, still remaining uncon- 
sumed in their boxes." I presume General Wil- 
kinson alludes to the same anecdote, when he says, 
" I found the courageous Colonel Cilley a straddle 
on a brass twelve pounder, and exulting in the cap- 
ture." 

I was solicitous to see the exact spot where Gen- 
eral Frazer, received his mortal w^ound. My old 
guide knew it perfectly well, and pointed it out to 
me. It is in a meadow, just on the right of the 
road, after passing a blacksmith's shop, and going 
south a few rods. The blacksmith's shop is on a 
road, which runs parallel to the Hudson — it stands 
elevated, and overlooks Freeman's farm. 



112 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^UEBEC^ 

The night of October 7th, was a most critical one 
for the royal army ; in the course of it, they aban- 
doned their camp, changed their whole position, and 
retreated to their works upon the heights, contigu- 
ous to the river, and immediately behind the hos- 
pital. 

I saw various places, where the dead were inter- 
red ; a rivulet, or creek, passes through the battle 
ground, and still washes out from its banks, the 
bones of the slain. This rivulet is often mentioned 
in the accounts of these battles, and the deep ravine 
through which it passes ; on our return, we follow- 
ed this ravine, and rividet, through the greater part 
of their course, till they united with the Hudson 
river. 

Farm houses are dispersed, here and there, over 
the field of battle, and the people often find, even 
HOW, gun-barrels and bayonets, cannon balls, grape 
shot, bullets, and human bones. Of the three last. I 
took from one of these people, some painful speci- 
mens ; — some of the bullets were battered and mis- 
shaped, evincing that they had come into collision 
with opposing obstacles. 

Entire skeletons are occasionally found ; a maa 
told me, that, in ploughing, during the late summer, 
he turned one up ; it was not covered more than 
three inches with earth ; it lay on its side, and the 
arms were in the form of a bow ; it was, probably, 
s'ome solhary victim, that never was buried. Such 
are the n^.emorials stili existing, of these great mill- 



I'OUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 113 

tary events ; great, not so much on accoiiDt of the 
numbers of the actors, as from the momentous inter- 
ests at stake, and from tlie magnanimous efforts to 
which they gave origin. 

I would not envy that man his state of feeling, who 
could visit such fields of battle without emotion, or 
who, (being an American,) could fail to indulge admi- 
ration and affection, for the soldiers and martyrs of 
liberty, and respect for the valour of their enemies*. 

GENERAL FRAZER'S GRAVE. 

Having taken my guide home to breakfast, we 
made use of his knowdedge of the country, to iden- 
tify with certainty, the place of General Frazer's 
interment. 

General Burgoyne mentions, tv/o redoubts, that 
were thrown up, on the hills behind his hospital; 
they are both still very distinct, and in one of these, 
which is called the great redoubt, by the officers of 
General Burgoyne's army. General Frazer was bu- 
ried. It is true, it has been disputed, which is the 
redoubt in question, but our guide stated to us, that 
within his knowledge, a British Sergeant, three or 
four years, after the surrender of Burgoyne's army, 
came, and pointed out the grave. We went to the 
spot; it is within the redoubt, on the top of the hill, 
nearest to the house, where the General died, and 
corresponds with the plate in Anbury's travels, tak- 
en from an original drawing, made by Sir Francis 



114 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (iUEBEC. 

Clark, aid to General Burgoyne, and with the state- 
ment of the General in his defence, as well as with 
the account of Madam Reidesel. 

General Frazer, when dying, sent with the ** kind- 
est expression of his affection, for General Burgoyne, 
a request, that he might be carried w^ithout parade^ 
by the soldiers of his corps, to the great redoubt, 
and buried there.'- 

The circumstances of this memorable interment, 
have been often mentioned. 

The body, attended by General Burgoyne, and 
the other principal officers of the army, who could 
not resist the impulse to join the procession, moved 
winding slowly up the hill, within view of the great- 
er part of both armies, while an incessant cannonade 
from the Americans, w^ho observed a collection of 
people, without knowing the occasion, covered the 
procession with dust ; — the clergyman, the Rev. 
Mr. Brudencl, went through the funeral service, 
with perfect composure, and propriety, notwithstan- 
ding the cannonade, and thus the last honors were 
paid one of the chiefs of the British army. 

The Baroness Reidesel, who w-as a spectator, 
speaks of the funeral service, as being " rendered 
unusually solemn and awful, from its being accom- 
panied by constant peals from the enemy's artillery," 
and adds — •' many cannon balls, flew close by me, 
but 1 had my eyes directed to the mountain, where 
my husband was standing amid>t the fire, of tVf »^no- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD ANL> Q,UEBEC. 1X5 

my, and of course, I could not think of mj own 
danger." 

General Burgoyne's eloquent delineation of the 
same scene, although often quoted before by oth- 
ers, is too interesting to be omitted on the pres- 
ent occasion: — "The incessant cannonade, during 
the solemnity ; the steady attitude and unaltered 
voice, with which the clergyman officiated, though 
frequently covered with dust, which the shot threw 
upon all sides of him; the mute but expressive 
mixture of sensibility and indignation, upon every 
countenance; these objects will remain, to the last 
of life, upon the mind of every man who was present. 
The growing duskiness, added to the scenery, and 
the whole marked a character of that juncture, that 
would make one of the finest subjects for the pencil 
of a master, that the field ever exhibited. To the 
canvass and to the page of a more important histo- 
rian, gallant friend ! I consign thy memory. There 
may thy talents, thy manly virtues, their progress 
and their period, find due distinction; and long may 
they survive ; long after the frail record of my pen 
shall be forgotten." 

The place of the interment, was formerly desig- 
Hated, by a little fence, surrounding the grave. I 
was here in 1797, twenty-two years ago, the grave 
was then distinctly visible, but the remains have been 
since dug up, by some English gentlemen, and car- 
ried to England, 



11(5 TOUR BLTWilEN HA11TF0R15 AND QUEBEC, 

The circumstances of the British were now very 
distressing, and they constantly expected a renewed 
attack from the Americans. Speaking of the death 
of General Frazer, General Burgoyne remarks: 
" The whole of the 8th of October was correspond- 
ent to this inauspicious beglnnmg. The hours were 
measured by a succession of immediate cares, in- 
creasing doubts and melancholy objects. The ene- 
my were formed in two lines. Every part of their 
disposition, as well as the repeated attacks on lord 
Balcarras' corps, and the cannonade from the 
plain, kept the troops in momentary expectation of 
a general action. During this suspense, w^oimded 
officers, some upon crutches, and others even carri-^ 
ed upon hand barrows, by their servants, were o<:-« 
casionally ascending the hill, from the hospital 
tents, to take their share in the action, or follow the 
march of the army. The Generals were emploj-ed 
in exhorting the troops." 

That commander, who, in the commencement of 
the campaign, had uttered in his general orders, the 
memorable sentiment — "this army must not re- 
treat," was now compelled to seek his safety by 
stealing away in the night, from his victorious eO^e- 
mv. Numerous fires were lighted — several tei*s 
left standing, and the retreat was ordered to be coji- 
ducted with the greatest secrecy. The army com- 
menced its retrograde motion at nine o'clock on 
the night of the eighth, pursuing the river road, 
through the meadows. It moved all night j but the 



TO¥R BETWEEN HAUTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 11"? 

succeeding day was excessively rainy, and the roads 
so bad, that they did not reach Saratoga, a distance 
of only six miles, till the evening of the ninth. The 
rains had so swelled the Fishkill, that they did not 
pass that rivulet till the morning of the tenth, when, 
finding their enemies already in possession of the 
fords of the Hudson, they took up a strong position 
which proved their final one. 

General Burgoyne left his hospital, containing 
more than three hundred sick and wounded, to the 
mercy of General Gates, who in this, as in all other 
instances, exhibited towards the enemy, the great- 
est humanity and kindness. 

Swords' house, where Mr. W. and myself lodg- 
ed, was the centre of this military hospital, and was 
occupied by the wounded officers, while the com- 
mon soldiers were comfortably accommodated, in 
the vicinity, in tents. 

The researches and observations of the morning 
had detained us till rather a late hour, when, taking 
leave of our venerable guide/' we proceeded north- 
ward on our journc^y, pursuing exactly the roiite of 
the retreating British army. 

■■ I must not, bvovvever, leave him vvilhout rneriiioriiag that he 
was wounded in this campaign: he bared his aged breast, and 
shewed me where a builet had raked along superfjcialiy cutting 
the outer integuments of the thorax, and carrying with it into 
the wound; portio'ns of his clothes. 

11 



i Itt TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD A^D Ht^i^^i-^^- 

THE LAST ENCAMPxMExNT. 

Six days more of anxiety, fatigue and suffering, 
remained foi the British army. They had lost part 
of their provision batteaux, when they abandon- 
ed their hospital, and the rest being exposed to im- 
minent danger, the small stock of provisions re- 
maining was landed under a heavy fire, and hauled 
up the heigths. On these heights, close to the 
meadows bordering on the river, they formed a for- 
tified camp, and strengthened it by artillery. Most 
of the artillery however, w^as on the plain. Gener- 
al Gates' army soon followed that of Burgoyne, and 
.=:tretched along south of the Fishkill, and parallel 
to it; the corps of Colonel Morgan, lay west and 
north of the British army, and General Fellow^s 
with three thousand men, was on the east of the Hud- 
son, ready to dispute the passage. Fort Edward was 
soon after occupied by the Americans — a fortified 
camp was formed on the high ground, between the 
Hudson and Lake George, and parties were stationed 
up and down the river; thus, the desperate resolu- 
tion which had been taken in General Burgoyne's 
camp, of abandoning their artillery and baggage, 
and (with no more provisions than they could carry 
on their backs,) forcing their w^ay by a rapid night 
march, and in this manner gaining one of the lakes, 
was rendered abortive. " 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEO. IIB 

Every part of the camp of the royal army was 
exposed, not only to cannon balls, but to rifle shot ; 
not a single place of safety could be found, not a cor- 
ner where a council could be held, a dinner taken 
in peace, or where the sick, and the wounded, the 
females and the children, could find an asylum. — 
Even the access to the river was rendered very haz- 
ardous by the numerous rifle shot ; and the army 
was soon distressed for want of water. General 
Reidesel, and his lady and children, were often obli- 
ged to drink wine instead of water, and they had no 
way to procure the latter, except that a soldier's wife 
ventured to the river for them, and the Americans, 
out of respect to her sex, did not fire at her. 

To protect his family from shot, General Reide- 
sel, soon after their arrival at Saratoga, directed 
them to take shelter, in a house, not far off*. They 
had scarely reached it, before a terrible cannonade 
was directed against that very house, upon the mis- 
taken idea, thut all the Generals were assembled in 
it. " Alas," adds the Baroness, " it contained none 
but wounded and women ; we were at last obliged 
to resort to the cellar for refuge, and, in one corner 
of this, I remained the whole day, my children 
sleeping on the earth, with their heads in my lap, 
and, in the same situation, I passed a sleepless 
night. Eleven cannon balls passed through the 
house, and we could distinctly hear them roll away. 
One poor soldier, who was lying on a table, for the 
purpose of having his leg amputated, w^as struck by 



J 20 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORB AND ^UEBEi . 

a shc^ which carried away his other ; his comrade.- 
had left him, and when we went to Iiis assistance, 
we found him in a corner of the room, into which 
he had crept, more dead than alive, scarcely breath- 
ing;. My reflections on the danger to which my 
husband was exposed, now agonized me exceed- 
ingly, and tlie thoughts of my children, and the ne- 
cessity of struggling for their preservation, alone 
sustained me." A horse of General Reidcsel was 
in constant readiness for his lady to mount, in case 
of a sudden retreat, and three wounded English of- 
ficers, who lodged in the same house, bad made her 
•I solemn promise, that they would, each of them, 
take one of her children upon a horse, and fly with 
them, when such a measure should become necessa- 
ry. She was in a state of wretchedness on account of 
her husband, who was in constant danger, exposed 
all day to the shot, and never entering his tent to 
sleep, but notwithstanding the great cold, lying down 
whole nights by the watch fires. **In this horrid 
situation," they remained six days, till the cessation 
of hostilities, which ended in a convention, for the 
.surrender of the army ; the treaty was signed on the 
sixteenth, and the army surrendered the next day.* 
On the present occasion, I did not visit tli€ Brit- 
i;>h fortified camp. When I was here, in 1797, I 
examined it particularly. It was then in perfect 
preservation, (I speak of the enca*iipment of the 

Rar^ncs'J RcifJesel'* Narraiiv*^, in WjlkiosenV Memoir? 






TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,LEBEC. 121 

British troops, upon the hill, near the Fii^hkill,) the 
parapet was high, and covered with grass and 
shrubs, and the platforms of earth to support the 
field pieces, were still in good condition. No devas- 
tation, of any consequence, had been committed, ex- 
cept by the credulous, who had made numerous ex- 
cavations in the breast works, and various parts oi 
the encampments, for the purpose of discovering 
■die money, which the officers were supposed to 
have buried, and abandoned. It is scarcely neces- 
sary to add, that they never found any money, for 
private property was made sacred by the conven- 
tion, and even the public military chest was not 
disturbed : the British retained every shilling that 
It contained. Under such circumstances, to have 
buried their money, would have been almost as 
i^reat a folly, as the subsequent search for it. This 
infatuation, has not however gone by, even to tliis 
hour, and still, every year, new pits are excav'ated 
by the insatiable money diggers.^* 

THE FIELD OF SURRENDER. 

We arrived at this interesting spot, in a very fine 
jnorning ; the sun shone, with great splendor, upon 

^ This appears to be a very common popular delusion ;, in niaiiy 
places, on the Hudson, and about the lakes, where armies had 
lain, or moved, we found money-pits dug 5 and, in one place, 
Ihey told us, that a man bought of a poor widow, (he right of 
di.iTging in her ground for the hidden treasure 



.122 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QtEBKC. 

the flowing Hudson, and upon tlie beautiful heights, 
and tlie kixuriant meadows, now smiling in rich vei- 
diire, and exhibiting images of tranquiUty and loveli- 
ness, very opposite to the horrors of war, which were 
once witnessed here. 

The Fishkill, swollen by abundant rains, (as if 
was on the morning of October 10th, 1777, when 
General Burgoync passed it with his ariillery,) now 
poured a turbid torrent along its narrow channel, 
and roaring down the declivity of the hills, hastened 
to mingle its waters with those of the Hudson. 

It was upon the banks of the Fishkill, that the 
British army surrendered. We passed the ground, 
where stood the tents of General Gates, and whero 
he received General Burgoyne, and the principal 
oflicers of his army. General Wilkinson's account 
of this interview is interesting : "Early in the morn- 
ing of the 17th, I visited General Burgoyne in his 
tamp, and accompanied him to the ground, where 
his army was to lay down their arms, from whence 
we rode to the bank of the Hudson's river, which 
he surveyed with attention, and asked me whether 
it was not fordable. ' Certainly, Sir; but do you ob- 
serve the people on the opposite shore ?' ' Yes, (re- 
plied he,) I have seen them too long.' He then 
proposed to be introduced to General Gates, and 
'we crossed the Fishkill, and proceeded to head 
-quarters. General Burgoyne in front, with his adju- 
nmt-General Kingston, and his aids" de camp Cap- 
lain lord Petersham, and Lieutenant Wilford behinti 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORt) AND CtLEEEC. 123^ 

lilm ; then followed Major General Phillips, the 
Baron Reidesel, and the other General officers, and 
their suites, according to rank. General Gates, ad- 
vised ofBurgoyne's approach, met him at the head 
of his camj), Burgoyne in a rich royal uniform, and 
Gates in a plain blue frock ; when they had ap- 
proached nearly within swords' length, they reined 
up, and halted, I then named the gentlemen, and 
General Burgoyne, raising his hat most gracefully, 
said ' The fortune of war. General Gates, has made 
me your prisoner ;' to which the conqueror, return- 
ing a courtly salute, promptly replied, ' I shall al- 
ways be ready to bear testimony, that it has not 
been througli any fault of your excellency.' Major 
General Phillips then advanced, and he, and Gene- 
ral Gates saluted, and shook hands with the famil- 
iarity of old acquaintances. The Baron Reide- 
sel, and the other officers, were introduced in their 
turn." 

We passed the ruins of General Schuyler's house, 
which are still conspicuous, and hastened to the field 
where the British troops grounded their arms. Al- 
though, in 1797, I paced it over with juvenile en- 
thusiasm,* I felt scarcely less interested on the 
present occasion, and again w^alked over the whole 
Tract. It is a beautiful meadow, situated at the in- 
tersection of the Fishkili with the Hudson, and north 
of the former. There is nothing now to distinguish 

* In company with (he Hon. John Elliott, now a Senator fi'om 
Ccorgia, and John Wjon Esq. from the same State. 



12-1: TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND flUEBEC. 

the spot, except the ruins of old Fort Hard}', buih 
durifig the French wars, and the deeply interesting 
historical associations which w^ill cause this place to 
be memorable to the latest generation. Thousands 
and thousands, yet unborn, will visit this spot, with 
feelings of the deepest interest, and it W'ill not be 
forgotten till Thermopyke, and Marathon, and Ban- 
nockburn and Waterloo, shall cease to be remem- 
bered. There, it will be said, were the last en- 
trenchments of a proud invading army; on that spot 
stood their formidable park of artillery — and here, 
on this now peaceful meadow, they piled their arras ! 
their arms, no longer terrible, but now converted 
into a glorious trophy of victory ! 

REFLECTIONS AND REMARKS. 

I have adverted but little to the sufterings of the 
American army, because but little, comparatively, is 
known of what they individually endured. Except- 
ing the inevitable casualties of battle, they must have 
suffered much less than their enemies ; for they soon 
ceased to be the flying, and became the attacking 
and triumphant party. Colonels Colburn, Adams, 
Francis and many other brave oflicers and men, 
gave up their lives, as the price of their country's 
liberty, and very many carried away with them the 
scars produced by honourable wounds. The brave- 
ry of the American army was fuily acknowledged 
by their adversaries. 



TOUR BETWKEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. i25 

** At all times," said Lord Balcarras, " when I 
was opposed to the rebels, they fought with great 
courage and obstinacy." " We were taught by ex- 
perience, that neither their attacks nor resistance 
was to be despised." Speaking of the retreat of the 
Americans, from Ticonderoga, and of their behav- 
iour at the battle of Hubberton, Lord Balcarras 
adds : " circumstanced as the enemy were, as an 
army very hard pressed, in their retreat, they cer- 
tainly behaved with great gallantry ;" of the attack 
on the hnes, on the evening of the 7th of October, 
lie says : " the lines were attacked, and with as 
much fury as the fire of small arms can admit." 

Lord Balcarras, had said, that he never knew the 
Americans to defend their entrenchments, but ad- 
ded : "the reason why they did not defend their en- 
trenchments was, that they always marched out of 
them and attacked us." Captain Money, in an- 
swer to the question, whether on the 19th of Sep- 
tember, the Americans disputed the field with ob- 
stinacy, answered, '' they did, and the fire was 
}iiuch hotter than I ever knew it any where, except 
at the affair of Fort Anne," and speaking of the bat- 
tle of October 7th, and of the moment when the 
Americans, with nothing but small arms, Avere 
marching up to the British artillery, he adds : " I 
was very much astonished, to hear the shot from 
the enemy, fly so thick, after our cannonade had 
lasted a quarter of an hour." General Burgoyne 
gives it as liis opinion, that as rangers, " perhaps 



126 TOUR BETWEEN UARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

there are few better in the world, than the corps of 
V'irginia riflemen which acted under Colonel Mor- 
gan." He says, speaking of the battle of September 
19th, that, "few actions have been characterised by 
more obstinacy, in attack or defence. The British 
bayonet was repeatedly tried ineffectually.'- 

Remarking upon the battle of the 7th of Octo- 
ber, he observes : " if there be any persons who 
continue to doubt that the Americans possess the 
qualiti/ and facuhy of fighting, call it by whatever 
term tliey please, they are of a prejudice, that it 
would be very absurd longer to contend with ;'* he 
says, tliat in this action the British troops " retreat- 
ed hard pressed, but in good order," and that " the 
troops had scarcely entered the camp, when it was 
stormed with great fury, the enemy rushing to the 
lines, under a severe fire of grape shot and small 
arms." 

In a private letter, addres?ed to Lord George 
Germain, after the surrender, he says, " I should 
now hold myself unjustifiable, if I did not confide 
to your Lordship, my opinion, upon a near inspec- 
tion of the rebel troops. The standing corps that 
I have seen, are disciplined. I do not hazard the 
term, but apply it to tlie great fundamental points 
of military institution, sobriety, subordination, regu- 
larity and courage." 

It is very gratifying to even- real American to 
find, that for so great a prize, his countrymen, (their 
enemies themselves bein^ judges,) contended so 



TULIl BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qCEBEC. 12T 

aobly, and that their conduct for bravery, skill and 
humanity, will stand the scrutiny of all future ages. 

From the enemy it becomes us not to withhold 
the commendation that is justly due; all that skill 
and valour could effect, they accomplished, and 
they were overwhehiied at last by complicated dis- 
tresses, and by very superior numbers, amounting 
at the time of the surrender, probably, to three for 
one, although the disparity was much less, in the 
two great battles. 

The vaunting proclamation of General Burgoyne, 
at the commencement of the campaign ; some of 
his boasting letters, written during the progress of 
it, and his devastation of private property reflect no 
honour on his memory. But, in general, he ap- 
pears to have been a humane and honourable man, 
a scholar and a gentleman, a brave soldier and an 
able commander. Some of his sentiments have a 
higher moral tone than is common with men of his 
profession, and have prpbably procured for him 
more respect, than all his battles. Speaking of the 
battle of the 7th, he says, " in the course of the ac- 
tion, a shot had passed through my hat, and another 
had torn my waistcoat. I should be soiry to be 
thought, at any time, insensible to the protecting 
hand of Providence ; but I ever more, particularly 
considered (and I hope not superstitiously) a sol- 
dier's hair breadth escapes as incentives to duty, a 
marked renewal of the trust of being, for the pur- 
poses of a public station ; and under that reflection^ 



128 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

to lose our fortitude, by giving way to our aii'eo 
lions ; to be divested by any possible self-emotion 
from meeting a present exigency, with our best fac- 
ulties, were at once dishonour and impiety/' 

Thus have I adverted, I hope not with too 
much particularity, to some of the leading cir- 
cumstances of the greatest military event which ha? 
ever occurred in America ; but compared with the 
whole extent and diversity of tliat campaign, the 
above notices, however extended, are few and brief. 
I confess, I have reviewed them with a very deep in- 
terest, and have been willing to hear some of the dis- 
tinguished actors speak in their own language. — 
Should the notice of these great even:s tend, in any 
instance, to quench the odious fires of party, and to 
rekindle those of genuine patriotism — should it re- 
vive in any one, a veneration for the virtues of 
those men who faced death, in every form, regard- 
less of their own lives, and bent only on securing to 
posterity, the precious blessings, which we now en- 
joy; and above all, should we thus be led to cher- 
ish a higher sense of gratitude to heaven, for our un- 
unexampled privileges, and to use them more tem- 
perately and wisely, the time occupied in this 
sketch, will not have been spent in vain. History 
presents no struggle for liberty, which has in it 
more of the moral sublime than that o( the Ameri- 
can revolution. It has been, of late years, too 
much forgotten, in the sharp contentions of party, 
and he wlio endeavours to witlidraw the pubijc mind 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (tl'^EBEC. 129 

from those debasing conflicts, and to fix it on the 
grandeur of that great epoch — which, magnificent 
in itself, begins now, to wear the solemn liver}/ of an- 
tiquity, as it is viewed through the deepening twilight 
of almost half a century , certainly performs a meri- 
torious service, and can scarcely need a justification. 
The generation that sustained the conflict, is now al- 
most passed away ; a few hoary heads remain, seam- 
ed with honourable scars — a few experienced guides 
can still attend us to the fields of carnage, and point 
out the places where they and their companions 
fought and bled, and where sleep the bones of the 
slain. But these juen will soon be gone ;* tradi- 
tion and history, will, however, continue to recite 
their deeds, and the latest generations will be taught 
to venerate the defenders of our liberties — to visit 
the battle-grounds, which w^ere moistened with their 
blood, and to thank the mighty God of battles, that the 
arduous conflict, terminated in the entire establish- 
ment of the liberties of this country. 

* I cannot suppress, the expression of the pleasure, with which, 
a few days since, I observed his Excellency Governor Brooks, still 
vigorous and alert, occupying a station of useful and honourable 
eminence, and receiving a voluntary tribute of respect from his 
fellow citizens at Boston, almost forty three years after he so gal- 
lantly carried the camp of Colonel Breyman, on the evening of Oc- 
tober 7, 1777, and contributed, most essentially, (as well as on 
many other occasions) to the happy issue of the campaign,— 
(June, 1620.) 

12 



130 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC 



STILLWATER TO SANDV-HILL. 

This ride of twenty-two miles we took before din- 
ner. After viewing the field of surrender, which is 
seven miles above Stillwater, and thirty-two above 
Albany, w^e passed on two miles farther, to the 
bridge, at Fort Miller, where we crossed to the 
eastern side of the Hudson. 

On coming near the head waters of this river, we 
begin to tread on ground famous, not only in the 
war of the revolution, but, in those numerous and 
bloody campaigns, of a still earlier date, in which 
ihe French and the savages carried fire and slaugh- 
Ter, into the vast frontier of the northern English 
Colonies. The contests then sustained, were dis- 
tinguished by immense sacrifices, efforts and suflfer- 
ings on the part of the English Colonies ; sacrifices, 
efforts and sufferings, which, notwithstanding tlie 
great aids, occasionally received, from the mother 
country, scarcely admitted, for a long course of 
years, of any serious and permanent intermission. 
Fort Miller was one of the posts established in those 
wars, and formed a link in the chain, which con- 
nected the upper waters of the Hudson with those 
of the lakes George and Champlain, and of course, 
with Canada. Fort Miller, is completely levelled, 
and I know not of any particular event, of signal 
importance, connected with its history, except that 
here, or a little way below. General Burgoyne, 



TOril BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 1^1 

when proceeding to Stillwater, on the 13th and 14th 
of September, 1777, passed most of his* army over 
the Hudson. 

From this place we pursued our journey, along 
the left bank of the river, lo Fort Edward, and San- 
dy Hill. 

In the whole distance, from Albany to the latter 
place, (nearly fifty miles.) there is scarcely a hill, 
even of moderate elevation, and the scenery is ex- 
tremely similar to that which, I have already de- 
scribed. 

The river, sprinkled wuth islands, flows through 
beautiful meadows, and apj^ears, in many places, 
smooth and glassy as a mirror, and its motion is 
scarcely perceptible, either to sight or hearing ; 
again, it is agitated, and with ripples and waves, is 
urged over a shallow and rocky bottom, or, dashes 
rapidly, down a more sudden and more rocky de- 
clivity ; but, in every variety of surface, it forms al- 
ways, a pleasing and interesting object, 

GEOLOGY. 

It was not in my power, to make many very pre- 
cise observations on the nature of the hills, by which 
the meadows are bounded. On Bemus' heights, 
the soil and forest, hid almost every rock from 
view ; the solitary projections were, however, gen- 
erally slaty, like the rocks along the river, which, 
with very few exceptions, were slate — of the trarts- 



132 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC*. 

ition class, (as I suppose ;) the direction of the stra- 
ta was, more 2;enerally, hke that of the other great 
rock formations of the north : that is, somewhat to 
the east of north, and to the west of south ; their dip 
appeared extremely variahle, hut I believe the}' 
were never flat, nor vertical, and the structure of the 
><trata was often, oxtremelv confused and tortuous.* 



FOUT EDWARD. 

At this Fort, we first observed the canal, which 
is destined to connect the head waters of Ijake 
Champlain with those of the Hudson. It is now on 
tlie point of being united with this river, and they 
are constructing the walls of the Canal of a very 
handsome hewn stone : it is obtained, as I am in- 
formed, near Fort Anne, and presents to the eye, 
aided by a magnifier, very minute plates and veins, 
which feebly elTervesce, with acids, and appear to 
enclose an extremely, fme black mineral, resem- 
bling hornblende ; the stone is impressed by steel, 
and feebly fires with it ; is it a peculiar kind of cal- 
careous sand stone ? It is of a dark hue, and is 
shaped into handsome blocks, by the tools of the 
workmen. T was gratified to see such firm and 
massy walls constructed of this stone ; indeed, in poini 

* The observntioiis of Mr. Amos Knton, (Index to the Geology 
nf the Northern States, second edition.) of Dr. William Meade, 
^^Ex|1erimental Enquiry, k.c.) and of Ur. John H. Steel, (Analysis 
of the Mineral waters of Saratoga, kc.) maybe advantageously 
consulted as to the fi;eology of tlic rejion* borderinj; on the upper 
waters of (he Und?<»B 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 133 

of solidity and beauty, they would do honour to the 
modern wet docks of Great Britain. 

It is intended to have a lock at this place, where 
there is a considerable descent into the Hudson. 

There is a village at Fort Edward, bearing the 
same name, and I ought to have remarked that 
there are villages, at Stillwater, Saratoga and Fort 
Miller ; but there is nothing particularly interesting 
in either of them. Fort Edward, however, is me- 
morable, on account of its former importance ; It is 
situated near the great bend of the Hudson, and 
formed the immediate connexion with Lake George, 
which is sixteen miles, and with Lake Champlain, 
which is twenty-two miles distant. It was origin- 
ally only an entrenched camp, and was constructed by 
the unfortunate Colonel Williams, afterwards slain, 
in 1755, near Lake George ; but as its situation 
was important, it was soon converted into a regular 
Fort. Its walls, built of earth, were raised thirty 
feet high, with ditches corresponding in depth and 
width, and it was defended by cannon. It stands 
on the brink of the Hudson, and the embankment 
was continued along the river. 

The walls appear to be, in some places, still 
twenty feet high, notwithstanding what time and 
the plough have done to reduce them ; for the in« 
terior of the Fort, and in some places, the parapet 
are now planted with potatoes. 

I know not tliat this Fort was ever beseiged or 
stormed, although it was often threatened. In the 
12* 



134 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

last French war, it was an important station, and in 
General Buigoyne's campaign, it formed the me- 
dium of communication with Lake George, whence 
the provisions were hrought forward for the use of 
tlie British army, which was detained on this ac- 
count, at and near Fort Edward, for six weeks, by 
wliich means, they lost the best part of the season 
for military operations — as they moved down the 
river, they relinquished the connexion with Fort 
Edward and Lake George, and were never able to 
recover it. 



MASSACRE OF MISS M'CREA. 

The story of this unfortunate young lady is well 
known, nor should I mention it now, but for the fact, 
that the place of her murder was pointed out to us, 
near Fort Edward. 

We saw, and conversed with a person, who was 
acquainted with her, and with her family 5 they re- 
sided in the village of Fort Edward. 

It seems, she was betrothed to a Mr. Jones, an 
American refugee, who was with Burgoyne's army, 
and being anxious to obtain possession of his expect- 
ed bride, he dispatched a party of Indians to escort 
her to the British army. Where were his affection 
and his gallantry, that he did not go himself, or at 
least that he did not accompany his savage emissa- 
ries! 



TcOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AiND QUEBEC 1 3 J 

Sorely against the wishes and remonstrances of 
her friends, she committed herself to the care of 
these fiends ; — strange infatuation in her lover, to 
solicit such a confidence — stranger presumption in 
her, to yield to his wishes; what treatment had she 
not a right to expect from such guardians ! 

The party set forward, and she on horseback; 
they had proceeded, not more than half a mile from 
Fort Edward, when they arrived at a spring, and 
halted to drink. The impatient lover had, in the 
mean time, dispatched a second party of Indians, 
on the same errand; they came, at the unfortunate 
moment, to the same spring, and a collision imme- 
diately ensued, as to the promised reward.'*^ 

Both parties w^ere now attacked, by the v/hites, 
and at the end of the conflict, the unhappy young 
woman was found tomahawd^ed, scalped and (as is 
said,) tied fast to a pine tree just by the spring. 
Tradition reports, that the Indians divided the scalp, 
and that each party carried half of it to the agonized 
lover. 

This beautiful spring, which still flow^s limpid 
and cool, from a bank near the road side, and this 
fatal tree w^e saw. The tree which is a large and 
ancient pine, *' fit for the mast of s6me tall ammiraP* 
is w^ounded, in many places, by the balls of the 
whites, fired at the Indians; they have been dug out 
as far as they could be reached, but others still re- 
main in this ancient tree, which seems a striking em- 

^ Which is said to have been a barrel of rum. 



136 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEe. 

blem, of wounded innocence, and the trunk, twist- 
ed off at a considerable elevation, by some vio- 
lent wind, that has left only a few mutilated branch- 
es, is a happy, although painful memorial of the 
fate of Jenne M'Crea.* 

Her name is inscribed on the tree, with the date 
1777, and no traveller passes this spot, without 
spending a plaintive moment in contemplating the 
untimely fate of youth and loveliness. 

The murder of Miss M'Crea, (a deed of such 
atrocity and cruelty as scarcely to admit of aggrava- 
tion,) occurring as it did, at the moment when Gen- 
eral Burgoyne, whose army was then at Fort 
Anne, w as bringing with him to the invasion of the 
American States, hordes of savages, " those hell- 
hounds of war,"f 'whose known and established 
mode of warfare, were those of promiscuous massa- 
cre,! electrified the whole continent, and indeed, 

*^^ General Hoyt of Deerfield, informs me, that the received ac- 
counts of the circumstances attending the murder of Miss M'Crea 
are in some particulars incorrect; he states, that he has ascertain- 
ed that she was not murdered at this spring, but in the road, at a 
little distance from it. 

i Lord Chatham. 

t It is true that Geheral Burgoyne, in his celebrated sj)eech to 
the Indians, at the river Boquet, at the opening of the campaign, 
(June 24, 1777,) reprobated such proceedings, and bound the sav- 
nges, (whom however he called " brothers" and "friends,") down 
to European rules of warfare ; but, who would expect, that a fine 
speech and a few rhetorical flourishes, even if sanctioned by rewards 
and punishments in prospect would restrain the habitual, I had al- 
most said, the innate ferocity of an American barbarian All that 



TOITR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 137 

the civilized world, producing an universal burst of 
horror and indignation. General Gates did not fail 
to profit by the circumstance, and in a severe but, 
too personal remonstrance, v^rhich he addressed to 
General Burgoyne, charged him with the guilt of the 
murder, and with that of many other similar atrocities. 
His real guilt, or that of his government, was, in em- 
ploying the savages at all in the war ; in other res- 
pects he appears to have had no concern with the trans*- 
action; in his reply to General Gates, he thus vindi- 
cates himself: " In regard to Miss M'Crea, her fall 
wanted not the tragic display you have laboured to 
give it, to make it as sincerely lamented and abhor- 
red by me, as it can be by the tenderest of her 
friends. The fact was no premeditated barbarity. 
On the contrary, two chiefs who had brought her 
oif, for the purpose of security, not of violence to 
her person, disputed which should be her guard, 
and in a fit of savage passion, in one, from whose 
hands she was snatched, the unhappy woman be- 
came the victim. Upon the first intelligence of this 
event, I obliged the Indians to deliver the murder- 
er into my hands, and though, to have punished^ 

happened, might therefore have been anticipated, and had Gene- 
ra! Burgoyne's army continued to be successful, the savages,instead 
tjf deserting him, as they did, in the hour <' of his utmost need," 
would have spread murder and desolation every where, in spite 
of speeches, rules or remonstrances. 

The French, the English and the Americans, are however, all 
■hargeable with a common guilt, diflering however in degree, in 
employing the savages, in the various wars on this continent. 



138 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, 

him by our laws, or principles of justice, would have 
been perhaps unprecedented, he certainly should 
have suffered an ignominious death, had I not been 
convinced by my circumstances and observation, be- 
yond the possibility of a doubt, that a pardon under 
the terms which I presented, and they accepted, 
would be more efficacious than an execution, to pre- 
vent similar mischiefs." 



SANDY MILL, AND THE MASSACRE THERE. 

Sandy Hill^ '' is dehghtfully situated just above 
Baker*s fJls — it contains a woollen manufactory, a 
court house, a bank, an academy for young ladies 
and about eighty houses." This pretty, and flour- 
ishing A'illage is regularly laid out, and composed of 
neat and handsome houses, many of which surround 
a beautiful central green. Tiie village of Sandy 
Hill is of recent origin, and the scite on which it 
stands, was formerly the scene of Indian barbari- 
ties. 

From Mr. H. a very respectable inhabitant, I 
learned the following singular piece of history. 

Old Mr. Schoonhoven, recently living in this vi- 
cinity, and probably still surviving, although at the 
great age of more than fourscore, informed Mr. H. 
that during the last French war, he, and six or seven 
other Americans coming through the wilderness, 
from Fort William Henry, at the head of Lake 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 139 

George, to Sandy Hill, had the misfortune to be tft- 
ken prisoners by a party of the savages. They were 
conducted to the spot, which is now the central 
green of Sandy Hill, and ordered to sit down in a 
row, upon a log. Mr. Schoonhoven pointed out to 
Mr. H. the exact place where the log lay ; it was 
nearly in front of the house, w^here we dined. 
The Indians then began, very dehberately, to 
tomahawk their victims, commencing at one end 
of the log, and splitting the skulls of their prison- 
ers, in regular succession; while the survivors, 
compelled to sit still, and to witness the awful fate of 
their companions, awaited their own, in unutterable 
horror. Mr. Schoonhoven was the last but one, up- 
on the end of the log, opposite to where the massa- 
t're commenced ; the work of death had already 
proceeded to him, and the lifted tomahawk was 
ready to descend, when a chief gave a signal to stop 
the butchery. Then approaching Mr. Schoonho- 
ven, he mildly said, *' do you not remember that 
(at such a time) when your young men were danc- 
ing, poor Indians came, and wanted to dance too; 
your young men said "no! — Indians shall not dance 
with us;" but you (for it seems, this chief had re- 
cognized his features only in the critical moment) 
you said, Indians shall dance — nov^^ I will shew you 
that Indians can remember kindness." This chance 
recollection, [promdeniial, we had better call it) 
saved the life of Mr, Schoonhoven^ and of the oth- 
'^r survivor. 



140 TdUR BETWEKN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

Strange mixture of generosity, and cruelty ! Foi 
a trifling affront, they cherished and glutted ven- 
geance, fell as that of infernals, without measure of 
retribution, or discrimination of objects; for a favour 
equally trifliiig, they manifested magnanimity, ex- 
ceeding ail correspondence to the benefit, and capa- 
ble of arresting, the stroke of death, even when fall- 
ing with the rapidity of lightning !* 

EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. 

This interesting region lay to the left of our pro- 
posed route to Lake Champlain ; to visit it, would 
demand nearly twenty miles of additional travelling, 
through very bad roads; Mr. W. was already famil- 
iar with the scene; I therefore took an extra con- 
veyance with which I was furnished at Sandy Hill, 
by the civility of Mr. H. who did me the favour to 

* Considering the moral and intellectual light of the American 
savages, we may, however, well ask whether this act, atrocions 
as it is, manifests more that is abliorrent to every humane — every 
just — every moral — every chri.stian, nay to every truly honour abh 
feeling than the lamentable |)ractice of duelling, that dreadfnl na- 
tional sin of this country ; that foul stain on our character as a 
moral and religious people; tliat sin which ascertains wo iw^n'i 
courage, but demonstrablyproves that man's cowardice, who dares 
not encounter the opinions of fighting n)en, but prefers (he vio- 
lation of the most sacred /««'5 both of God and man; that sin, 
which sends to a premature grave those uho have defended the. 
nation hy their'valonr, and honoured it by their councils, and their 
ivisdom; that sin, for whose victims, thousands of American hearts 
are now bleeding, and for which, all good men mourn, and angels 
ween ! ? 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 141 

accompany me on the excursion, (for there was no 
piibhc vehicle) and leaving i^U\ W. to pursue his 
journey to Fort Anne, where I agreed to meet him,' 
I parted with him four miles above Sandy Hill at 
Glenn's falls. 



OLENN'S FALLS. 

We stopped for a few moments at tliis celebrated 
place. It is not possible that so large a river as the 
Hudson is, even here, at more than two hundred 
miles from its mouth, should be precipitated over 
any declivity, however moderate, without a degree 
of grandeur. Even the various rapids which we 
had passed above Albany, and still more, the falls 
at Fort Miller Bridge, and Baker's falls, at Sandy 
Hill, had powerfully arrested our attention, and pre- 
pared us for the magnificent spectacle now before 
us. I regretted that I could not, more at leisure, 
investigate the geology of this pass, both for its 
own sake, and for its connexion with this fine piece 
of scenery. 

The basis of the country here, is ri black lime 
stone, compact, but presenting spots that are crys- 
tallized, and interspersed, here and there, with the 
organized remains of animals, entombed, in ages 
past, in this mausoleum. The strata are perfectly 
flat, and are piled upon one another, v/ith the ut- 
most regularity, so that a section, perpendicular t* 
the strata, presents almost the exact arrangement of 

13 



142 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND vtL LB£<. . 

hewn stones in a building. Such a section has been 
made by the Hudson, through these calcareous 
strata; not however all at once; a number of lay- 
ers are removed, either through a part of the width 
of the river, or through the whole of it; and, a few 
feet further down the stream, the layers, next below, 
are removed ; and thus, by stairs, or rather by broad 
platforms, not however without frequent irregular- 
ties, and deep channels cut by the water in tlie di- 
rection of the river, tlie way is prepared for tliis fine 
cataract. 

Down these platforms, and through these chan- 
nels, the Hudson, when the river is full, indignantly 
rushes, in one broad expanse ; now, in several sub- 
ordinate rivers, thundering and foaming among the 
black rocks, and at last, dashing their conflicting 
waters, into one tumultuous raging torrent, white 
as the ridge of the tempest wave, shrouded with 
spray, and adorned with the hues of the rainbow. 
Such is the view from the bridge immediately at 
the foot of the falls, and it is finely contrasted with 
the solemn grandeur of the sable ledges below, 
which tower to a great height above the stream. 

I do not know the entire fall of the river here, 
but should think, judging from the eye, that it could 
not be less than fifty feet,* including all its leaps, 
down the different platforms of rock. 

'^ This estimate being made without measuretnent, and as I hav^ 
not ot hand, any authority on the subject of the heiglit of these fali^i 
i wish the conjecture in the text to be regarded a,^ such luei-ely. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 143 

Throiip;h an uninteresting countr}^ partly of pine 
barren, and partly of stony hills, I arrived at night- 
fall, at the head of Lake George, and found a com- 
fortable inn, in the village of Caldwell, on the wes- 
tern shore. 

As we approached Lake George, fragments of 
primitive rocks, began to appear, and I observe-d 
numerous loose masses of granite, on the steep stony 
hills, near the lake. I was much struck with the 
formidable difficulties which General Burgoyne had 
to encounter in transporting his stores, and his boats, 
and part of his artillery, over this rugged country : 
at that time, without doubt, vastly more impractica- 
ble than at present. 

PROSPECT FROM THE HEAD OF LAKE CEORGE 

Sept. 28. — Li the first grey of the morning, I wa:^ 
in the balcony of the Inn, admiring the fme outline 
of the mountains, by which Lake George is envi-^ 
roned, and the masses of pure snowy vapour, whicbj 
unruffled by the slightest breeze, slumbered on it^ 
crystal bosom. During all the preceding days of 
the tour, there had not been a clear morning, but 
now, not a cloud spotted the expanse of the hea- 
vens, and the sky and the lake conspired to exalt 
every feature, of this unrivalled landscape. 

The morning came on with rapid progress; but 
the woody sides of the high mountains, that form 
the eastern barrier, were still obscured, by the lin- 



144 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

gering shadows of night, althoiigli, on their tops, the 
dawn was now fully disclosed, and their outline, by 
contrast with their dark sides, was rendered beau- 
tifully distinct; while, their reversed images, per- 
fectl}^ reflected from the most exquisite of all mir- 
rors, presented mountains pendent in the deep, and 
adhering by their bases, to those, which at the same 
moment, w-ere emulating the heavens. 

A boat had been engaged, the evening before, 
and we now rowed out upon the lake, and hastened 
to old Fort George, whose circular massy walls of 
stone, still twenty feet high, and in pretty good 
preservation, rise upon a hill about a quarter of a 
mile from the southern shore of the lake. I was 
anxious to enjoy, from this propitious spot, the ad- 
vancing glories of the morning, which by the time 
we had reached our station, were glow^ing upon the 
jnountain tops, with an effulgence, that could be 
augmented by nothing but the actual appearance of 
the king of day. 

Now, the opposite mountains — those that form 
the western barrier, were strongly illuminated down 
their entire declivity, while the twin barrier of the 
eastern shore (its ridge excepted) was still in deep 
shadow; the vapour on the lake, which was just suf- 
ficient to form the softened blending of light and 
shade, while it veiled the lake only in spots, and 
]Qft its outline and most of its surface perfectly di?»- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 145 

tinct, began to form itself into winrovvs,* and clouds 
and castles, and to recede from the water, as if con- 
scious that its dominion must now be resicined. 

The retreat of the vapour formed a very beautiful 
part of the scenery ; it was the moveable light 
drapery, which, at first, adorning the bosom of the 
lake, soon after began to retire up the sides of the 
mountains, and to gather itself into delicate curtains 
and festoons. 

At the distance of twelve or fourteen miles, the 
lake turns to the right, and is lost among the moun- 
tains; to the left, is north-west Bay, more remote 
and visible from the fort. 

The promontory, which forms the point of junc- 
tion between the lake and the bay, rises into lofty 
peaks and ridges, and apparently forms the northern 
termination of the lake. 

Up these mountains, which are even more grand 
and lofty, than those on the sides of the lake, the 
vapour, accumulated by a very slight movement of 
the atmosphere from the south, rolled in immense 
masses, every moment changing their form ; now ob- 
scuring the mountains almost entirely, and now 
veiling their sides, but permitting their tops to 
emerge, in unclouded majesty. 

* Tbis, possibly, is an American word, (meaning the rows of 
hay, tbat are raked together, in a meadow, before the hay is 
♦ brown into heaps ;) it exactly describes the vapour, as it appear- 
ed, in some places, on (he lake, and I knew no other word that 
did. 

13* 



146 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBFG. 

Anxious to witness, from the surface of the lake, 
the first appearance of the sun's orb, we regained 
our boat, and, in a few moments, attained the de- 
sired position. Opposite to us, in the direction to- 
wards the rising sun, was a place or notch, lower 
than the general ridge of the mountains, and formed 
by the intersecting curves of two declivities. 

Precisely through this place, were poured upon 
us the first rays, which darted down, as if in lines 
of burnished gold, diverging and distinct, as in a di- 
agram ; tlie ridge of the eastern mountains, was 
fringed with fire, for many a mile ; the numeroujj 
islands, so elegantly sprinkled through the lake, and 
which recently appeared and disappeared, through 
the rolling clouds of mist, now received the direct 
rays of the sun, and formed so many gilded gar- 
dens ; at last came the sun, " rejoicing in his 
strength," and, as he raised the upper edge of his 
burning disk into view, in a circle of celestial fire, 
the sight was too glorious to behold ; — it seemed, 
as the full orb was disclosed, as if he looked down 
with complacency, into one of the most beautiful 
spots in this lower world, and, as if gloriously repre- 
senting his great creator, he pronounced " it all 
very good." I certainly never before saw the sun 
rise with such majesty. I have not exaggerated the 
elTect, and, without doubt, it arises principally from 
the fact, that Lake George is so completely envi- 
roned by a barrier of high mountains, that it is 
'H deep shade, while the world aroiind is in light, 









■^ 



e ^ 




iiiri:iM':iu,;i::i'iiliiiiii!iiii(ii!iiiii 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 147 

and the sun, already risen for some time, does not 
dart a single ray upon this imprisoned lake, till, hav- 
ing gained a considerable elevation, he bursts, all at 
once, over the fiery ridge of the eastern mountains, 
and pours, not a horizontal, but a descending flood 
of light, which, instantly piercing the deep shadows, 
that rest on the lake, and on the w^estern side of the 
eastern barrier, thus produces the finest possible ef- 
fects of contrast. When the sun had attained a lit- 
tle height above the mountain, we observed a curi- 
ous effect ; a perfect cone of light, with its base to- 
wards the sun, lay upon the water, and, from the 
vertex of the cone, which reached half across the 
lake, there shot out a delicate line of parallel rays, 
which reached the western shore, and the whole ve- 
ry perfectly represented a gilded steeple. As this 
effect is opposite to the common form of the sun's 
effulgence, it must probably depend upon some pe- 
culiarities in the shape of the summit? of the moun- 
tains at this place. 



PRINTS, NO. 3 AND 4. 

For some illustrations of the scenery of the south 
end of Lake George, and of the preceding descrip- 
tion of it, reference may be had to the prints, No. 3 
and 4, — for which, as well as for all the similar or- 
naments of this volume, I am indebted to the pencil 
of my friend and fellow traveller. These, two views 



148 TOUR BET^VEEN HARTFeRD AND Q,UEBEC. 

were sketched by him, on a former tour, but are, 
in every respect, as appropriate to the present 
occasion, as to the one on which they were drawn. 

The view. No. 3, being taken from the water's 
edge, in front of the public house, in the village of 
Caldwell, which stands on the very shore of the 
south-western side of the lake, of course leaves 
that village in the rear, and exhibits, as the most 
prominent objects, the mountains, on the eastern 
shore, forming a strong contrast with the peace- 
ful bosom of the lake. Several of the islands are in 
sight, and pleasantly diversify the uniform surface 
of the water, the view of which, to the north, and 
north-west, is, necessarily, limited by the position 
of the observer. 

In print. No. 4, the observer being at Fort George, 
situated, as I have already remarked, at some dis- 
tance from the southern shore of the lake, and in a 
direction, about mid-way between its eastern and 
western sides, contemplates a prospect, considera- 
bly different from that seen in the other position. 
The eastern barrier is now much less in view : the 
promontory, where tlie lake turns off to the right, 
and is lost among the mountains, and where north- 
west bay stretches to the left, and appears bounded 
by very high mountains, is immediately before him, 
at the distance of about twelve miles ; the islands, 
in view, are more numerous, and give greater varie- 
ty to the now more extended surface of the lake ; 
and, immediately at the observer's feet, is the ac- 












f-^ 


^ 


fe 


© 






'^ 




Si 


*jl 


a 


eg 


5C 


fo 


^ 


'-s 


•^ 




I 

11 ! 



"1 



j.">waiiffli!iifflimi!iSitiiiiBliiu 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,UEBEC. 149 

clivity, by which we ascend from the lake, to the 
old fort, upon the walls of which we are supposed 
to stand, and they, of course, are not in view. On 
the very shore, we observe one of the old barracks, 
formerly belonging to the fort, now exhibiting a 
tavern sign, and, till within a few years, constituting 
the only place of accommodation to those who vis- 
ited Lake George. At this place, although princi- 
pally covered by the water, are the ruins of the old 
military quay or pier, formerly extending a good 
way into the lake, and affording important facilities 
to the numerous expeditions, that have sailed upon 
Lake George. 

REMARKS ON LAKE GEORGE AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

Every one has heard of the transparency of the 
waters of Lake George. This transparency is, in- 
deed, very remarkable, and the same, (as we might 
indeed well suppose it would be,) is the fact with 
all the streams that pour into it. After the day 
light became strong, we could see the bottom per- 
fectly, in most places where we rowed, and it is 
said, that in fishing, even in twenty or twenty-five 
feet of v/ater, the angler may select his fish, by 
bringing the hook near the mouth of the one which 
he prefers. 

Bass and trout are among the most celebrated 
fish of the lake ; the latter were now in season, and 
nothing of the kind can be finer ; this beautiful fish, 



150 TOLR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^UEBl^C'. 

elegantly decorated, and gracefully formed, shy of 
observation, rapid in its movements, and delighting, 
above all, in the perfect purity of its element, finds 
in Lake George, a residence, most happily adapted 
to its nature. Here it attains a very uncommon size, 
and exhibits its most perfect beauty and symmetry. 
The delicate carnation of its flesh, is here also most 
remarkable, and its flavour exquisite. 

If the lovers of the sublime and beautiful, visit 
Lake George, for its scenery, and the patriotic, to 
behold the places where their fathers stemmed the 
tide of savage invasion ; the epicure also, will come, 
not to cherish the tender and the heroic, nor to ad- 
mire the picturesque and the grand, but to enjoy 
the native luxuries of the place. 

The lake is about a mile wide near its head, and 
is sometimes wider, sometimes narrower than thisy 
but rarely exceeding two miles, through its length 
of thirty-six miles. It is said to contain as many 
islands, as there are days in the year. 

I had scarcely any opportunities of observing the 
mineralogy and geology of this region. 

The beautiful crystals of quartz, which all stran- 
gers obtain at Lake George, are got on the islands in 
the lake ; one about four miles from its head, (and 
called, of course, the diamond island,) has been 
principally famous for affording them ; there is a 
solitary miserable cottage upon' this island, from 
which we saw the smoke ascending; — a woman, 
who lives in it, is facetiously called " the lady of the 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 151 

lake," but, probably no Malcolm Greme, and Rhod- 
eric Dhu will ever contend on her account. 

Crystals are now obtained from other islands, I 
believe, more than from this, and they are said no 
longer to find the single loose crystals in abundance 
on the shores, but break up the rocks for this pur- 
pose. Poor people occupy themselves in procur- 
ing crystals, which they deposit at the public house, 
for sale. 

The crystals of Lake George, are hardly surpass- 
ed by any in the world, for transparency, and for per- 
fection of form ; they are, as usual, the six-sided 
prism, and frequently terminated at both ends by 
six-sided pyramids. These last must, of course, be 
found loose, or, at least, not adhering to any rock ; 
those which are broken off, have necessarily only 
one pyramid.* I procured specimens of the rocky 
matrix, in which the crystals are formed ; it is of 
quartzoze nature, and contains cavities finely stud- 
ded with crystals. 

The crystals of Lake George frequently contain 
a dark coloured foreign substance, enclosed all 
around, or partially so; its nature, I believe, has not 
been ascertained ; it may be manganese, titanium, 
or iron. 

I had no opportunity to see the rocks, except 
those on which Fort George stand, and which form 

* I b.Rve a crystal from Lake George, obtained by a soldier, and 
presented to tlie late President Dwight, wbicli is between five and 
six inches long,' by three broad, and is perfectly limpid, and well 
^.rysta'.ized. 



152 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

the barrier of the lake, at its head; they are a dove- 
coloured, compact lime-stone, of a very close grain, 
and smooth conchoidal fracture ; they very much 
resemble the marble of Middle bury, (Vermont,) 
and, I suppose, belong to the transition class. I 
could get no view of the rocks of the two lateral 
barriers, but, from what I afterwards saw, I con- 
clude they are primitive, and probably (at least the 
eastern one,) gneiss.* 

The vulgar, about the lake, say, that in some 
places, it has no bottom ; by which, doubtless, 
ought to be understood, that it is in some places so 
deep as not to be fathomed by their hues ; I know 
of no attempts to ascertain its greatest depth. 

The mountains are extensively, or rather almost 
universally in dense forest ; rattle snakes and deer 
abound upon them, and hunting is still pursued here 
with success. 

I was credibly informed, that, a few years since, 
there was a man in this vicinity, who had the sin- 
gular power, and the still stranger temerity, to catch 
living rattle snakes with his naked hands, without 
wounding the snakes, or being wounded by them; 
he used to accumulate numbers of them in this 
manner, for curiosity, or for sale, and, for a long 

♦Dr. Meade (Experimental Enquiry, &,c. p. 6,) remarks, that 
the eastern side of Lake George is composed of transition rocks ; 
the head of this lake appears, indeed, to be transition lime-stone, 
and possibly its bfJ may be the same ; although the quartz from 
the islands, (which I have not visited,) gives a different indica 
tion ; boih barriers are, however, undoubtedly primitive. 



•i;OUR BETWEEN HAKTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 153 

lime, persisted, uninjured, in this audacious prac- 
tice ; but, at last, the awful fate, which all but him- 
self, had expected, overtook him ; he was bitten, 
and died. Surely no motive, except one spring- 
ing from the highest moral duty, could have justifi- 
ed such an exposure. 

In some places, the mountains, contiguous to the 
shores, are rocky and precipitous. Tradition re- 
lates, that a white man, closely pursued, in the win- 
ter season, by two Indians, contrived to reach the 
ice, on the surface of the lake, by letting himself 
down one of these precipices, and, before the In- 
dians could follow, ho was on his skaits, and dart- 
ing, " swift as the winds along," was soon out of 
their reach. 

I am not informed that the height of tlie moun- 
tains, about Lake George, has ever been measured ; 
\hej appeared to my eye, generally, to exceed one 
thousand feet, and probably the highest may be fif- 
teen hundred, or more. 

The wreck of a steam-boat, recently burnt to the 
waters edge, lay near the tavern : it gave great fa- 
cility in going up this beautiful lake to Ticondero- 
ga ; parties and individuals, were much in the habil 
of making this tour; and, were there a good road, 
instead of a v^ery bad one, from Glenn's falls to 
Lake George, and were the steam-boat re-establish- 
ed, it must become as great a resort, as the lakes of 
Westmoreland and Cumberland, or as Lock Ka- 
trin, now immortali^^ed by the muse of Scott. 

14 



lo4 TOUR BETWEKN HARTFORD AND QUKBEC. 

The viUage of Caldwell, built entirely since tlie 
American war, contains five or six hundred inhabit- 
ants, with neat buildings, public and private, and a 
very large coujuiodious public-house, well provided 
and attended, so that strangers, visiting the lake, can 
have every desired accommodation. This village, 1 
am informed, has arisen principally from tlie exer- 
tions of one enterprising individual, from whom it de- 
rives its name, as w oil as its existence. He has lived 
to see his laboui*s crowned w iih success, and a pretty 
village now smiles aj the foot of the western barrier 
of liake George, on ground where the iron i-amparts 
of war are still visible ; for, on this very ground, 
tlie Marquis Montcalm's army was entrenched, a' 
the sies:c of Fort William Heniv, in 1757. 

BATILES OF LAKE GEORGE. 

Ja iiie wars of this country, Lake George has 
long been conspicuous. Its head waters formed the 
shortest, and most convenient coimexion, between 
Canada, and the Hudson, and hence the establish- 
ment of Fort Wilham Henry, in 1755, and, in more 
recent times, of Fort George, in its immediate vi- 
cinity. 

This most beautiful and peaceful lake, environed 
hv mountains, and seeming to claim an exemption 
from the troubles of an agitated world, has often 
bristled with the proud array of war, has wafted its 
:no$t formidable preparations on its b<^som, and has 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND *^UEBEC. ICkO 

repeatedly witnessed both the splendors and the 
havoc of battle. 

Lar2;e armies have been, more than once, embark- 
ed on Lake George, proceeding down it, on their 
way to attack Ticonderoga and Crown Point ; this 
was the fact with the armv of Abercrombie, con- 
sisting of nearly sixteen thousand men, inchiding 
nine thousand troops from the colonies, and a very 
formidable train of artillery, which, on the fifth of 
July, 1758, embarked at the south end of Lake 
George, on board of one hundred twenty-five whale 
boats, and nine hundred batteaux. 

What an armament for that period of this coun- 
try I What a spectacle, on such a narrow quiet lake ! 
It is said by an eye witness, to have been a most 
imposing sight. Little did this proud army imagine, 
that within two days, they would sustain, before Ti- 
conderoga, a most disastrous defeat, with the loss 
of nearly two thousand men, and of lord Howe," 
one of their most beloved and promising leaders, 
and that they would so soon return up the lake, in 
discomfiture and disgrace. In July, of the next 
summer, (1759,) Lake George was again covered 
with an armament, little inferior in numbers, to that 
o( General Abercrombie, but vastly superior in suc- 
cess ; for Ticonderoga and Crown Point, were 
abandoned at its approach, and General Amherst, 

^ Father o\ the Howe, who figured so much during the revolir- 

; omrv war 



156 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC » 

its fortunate leader, obtained an almost bloodle^ii 
victory.* 



FORT WILLIAM HENRY. 

The remains of this old fort are still visible ; they 
are on the verge of the lake, at its head ; the \val]s> 
the gate, and the out-worI;s, can still be complete- 
ly traced ; the ditches have, even now, considera- 
ble depth, and the well that supplied the garrison, 
is there, and afibrds water to this day ; near, and 
in this fort, much blood has been shed. 

In August, IToS, General, afterwards Sir Wil- 
liam Johnson, lay at the head of Lake George, with 
an army, about to proceed to the attack of Crown 
Point ; they were troops raised by the northern 
colonies. 

Baron Dieskau, who commanded the French 
forces in Canada, leaving Ticonderoga, came down 
Lake Champlain, through south bay, and was pro- 
ceeding to the attack of Fort Edward, which con- 
tained not five hundred men, and had been reported 
to Dieskau, to be without cannon. To the succour 
of this fort, GeneralJohnson detached one thousand 
men, and two hundred Indians, under Colonel Wil- 
liams of Deerfield. 

* Colonel Roger Townshend was killed by a cannon shot, while 
reconnoiierinar, on almost the same spot, where lord Howe was 
killed, the year before ; he is said to have resembled him mnch. 
♦= in birth., age, qualifications, and character. "' 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 157 

Dieskau's army, having in the mean time, learn- 
ed, that there were cannon at Fort Edward, and 
being assured that General Johnson's camp was 
w^ithout artillery or entrenchments, importuned their 
General to change his purpose of attacking Fort 
Edward, and to lead them northward, to assail 
Johnson's camp. Dieskau yielded to their wishes, 
and turned his course accordingly. The moun- 
tains, which form the barriers of Lake George, con- 
tinue to the south, after they leave the lake, form- 
ing a rugged, narrow defile, of several miles in 
length, most of which was then, and still is, filled 
with forest trees. 

In this defile, about four miles from General John- 
son's camp. Colonel Williams' party, which left the 
camp, between eight and nine o'clock in the mor- 
ning, of September 6, 1755, very unexpectedly fell 
in with the arioy of Baron Dieskau ; the two armies 
met in the road, front to front; the Indians of 
Dieskau's army were in ambuscade, upon both de- 
clivities of the mountain, and thus it was a complete 
surprise, for Colonel Wilhams had unhappily neg- 
lected to place any scouts upon his wings. A bloody 
battle ensued, a deadly fire was poured in upon both 
flanks. — Colonel Williams* endeavouring to lead 

* I am informed by General Hoyt, of Deerfield, that Colonel 
Williams' remains, (or such as are believed to be his,) have recent- 
ly been found, with (he skull perforated by a ball. 

l( I mistake not, the observation was made by, or under the 
immediate direction of General Hoyt, who has taken much pains, 
bv accurate and minute examinaiions, conducted by himself on 
14* 



153 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^iUEBEC . 

his men against the unseen enemy, was instantly 
shot through the head, and he, and hundreds of his 
party, inchuling old Hendrick, the chief of the Mo- 
hawks, and forty Indians were slain. The remain- 
der of the party, under the command of Colonel 
Whiting, retreated into the camp. They came run- 
ning in, in the utmost confusion and consternation, 
and perhaps owed their safety, in a great measure, 
to anotlier party, which, when the firing was heard, 
and perceived to be growing louder and nearer, was 
sent out to succour tliem. 

Judge Kent informed me, that old Mr. Van Skoik, 
of Kinderhook, has recently related to him that, arri- 
ving the next day, on the ground where the battle was 
fought, he saw three hundred men, dead on the spot, 
and Baron Dieskau lying, mortally wounded, in the 
Ens;lish cauip, on the bed of General Johnson. 
This wound was received in a second, and still 
greater battle, fought the same day. Dieskau, after 
the retreat of Williams' party, marching on with 
spirit, attacked General Johnson's entrenched camp, 

the «pot, to investigate the precise facts, as to the places and cir- 
cumstances of some of our most interesting military events — 
Purely, it is iiigh tiaie that similar efforts were made in all similar 
places; nOer the prescijt generation is gone, original witnesses 
can no loiifi;or he found ; and there are few immediate incentive? 
to patriotism, that are more efTectral, than such exact local hislo- 
rles, of great military events, and particularly, of the catastrophes 
of distinguished men, who have died for their country. 1 trust 
General Hoyt will pardon me for tliis public mention of him, and 
jor the einression of my wish that his interesting researches may 
not be withheld from the public. — June, 1S20. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 159 

and altliougb he fought with long and persevering 
valour, his army, in a great measure deserted by the 
Canadians and Indians, was repulsed with immense 
slaughter. Dicskau, wounded in the leg, and un- 
able to follow his retreating army, was found leaning 
against a tree ; he began to feel for his watch, in 
order to deliver it up to the soldier, who was ap- 
proaching him ; but the soldier supposing him to be 
searching for a pistol, unhappily fired a charge into 
his hips which caused his death. 

Nor did this battle terminate the fighting of this 
bloody day. The remains of Dieskau's army re- 
treated, about four miles, to the ground where Colo- 
nel Williams had been defeated in the morning, and 
the rear of the army were there sitting u^>on the 
ground, had opened their knapsacks, and were re- 
freshing themselves, when Captain McGinnies, \yl\o 
with two hundred men, had been dispatched from Fort 
Kdward, to succour the main body, came up with 
this portion of the French army, thus sitting in se- 
curity, and attacked and totally defeated them, al- 
though he was himself mortally wounded. Thus 
w^ere three battles fought in one day,* and almost 
upon the same ground. This ground I went over. 
Remains of the encampment are still to be found, 
in the woods. The nciglibouring mountain, in 
which the French so suddenly made their appear- 
ance, is, to this day, called French Mountain, and 

■* Sniollel and same other writer? place this last battle on the 
next dxv. 




IGO TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

this name, with the tradition of the fact, will be sent 
down to the latest posterity. I was shewn a rock 
by the road at which a considerable slaughter took 
place. 

THE BLOODY POND. 

Just by the present road, and in the midst of these 
battle grounds, is a circular pond, shaped exactly 
like a bowl ; it may be two hundred feet in diame- 
ter, and was, wiien I saw it, full of ivatei', and cov- 
ered ivith the pond lilJy. Alas ! this pond, now so 
peaceful, was the common sepulchre of the brave ; 
the dead bodies of most of those who were slain 
on this eventful day, were thrown, in undistin- 
guished confusion into this pond ; from that time 
to the prcsen!, it has been called the hloody pond, 
and there is not a child in this region, but will point 
you to the French mountain, and to the bloody 
pond. — I stood with dread, upon its brink, and 
threw a stone into its unconscious waters. After 
these events, a regular fort v/as constructed at the 
head of the lake and called Fort William Henry. 

MASSACRE OF FORT WILLIAM HENRY. 

The three battles of September 6th, were not 
the end of the tragedies of Lake George. The 
Marquis de Montcalm after three ineffectual 
attempts upon Fort William Henry, made great 
efforts to besiege it in form, and in August, 1757, 



X:OUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEB£C. 161 

having landed ten thousand men near the fort, sum- 
moned it to surrender. The place of his landing 
was shewn me, a little north of the public house ; 
the remains of his batteries and other works are 
still visible ; and the graves and bones of the slain 
are occasionally discovered. 

He had a powerful train of artillery, and although 
the fort and works were garrisoned by three thou- 
sand men, and were most gallantly defended by the 
commander, Colonel Monroe, it was obliged to capit- 
ulate ; but the most honourable terms, were granted 
to Colonel Monroe, in consideration of his great gal- 
lantry. The bursting of the great guns, the want of 
ammunition, and above all, the failure of General 
Webb to succour the fort, although he lay idle at 
Fort Edward with four thousand men, were the 
causes of this catastrophe. 

The capitulation was, however, most shamefully 
broken ; the Indians attached to Montcalm's army, 
while the troops were marching out of the gate of 
the fort, dragged the men from the ranks, particu- 
larly the Indians in the English service, and butch- 
ered them in cold blood — they plundered all with- 
out distinction, and murdered women and little 
children, with circumstances of the most aggravated 
barbarity.* The massacre continued all along the 

* Men and women had their throats cut, their bodies ripped 
open, ai)d their bowels, with insult, thrown in their faces. — In- 
fants and children were barbarously taken by the heels, and their 
brains dashed out against stones and trees. The Indians pursued 
the English nearly h^lf the way to I'ort Edward, where th«j 
greatest number of them arrived in a most forlorn condition. 



162 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

1-oad, through the defile of the mountains, and for 
many miles, the miserable prisoners, especially 
those in the rear, were tomahawked and hewn 
down in cold blood ; it might well be called the 
bloody defile, for it was the same ground that was 
the scene of the battles, only two years before, in 
1 755. It is said that efforts were made by the French 
10 restrain the barbarians, but they were not restrain- 
ed, and the miserable remnant of the garrison with 
tlifficulty reached Fort Edward pursued by the In- 
dians, although escorted by a body of French troops. 
I passed over the whole of the ground, upon which 
this tragedy was acted, and the oldest men of the 
country still remember this deed of guilt and infamy. 

Fort WiUiam Henry was levelled by MontcahD, 
and has never been rebuilt. Fort George was 
built as a substitute for it, on a more commanding; 
scite, and although often mentioned in the history 
of subsequent wars, was not I believe the scene of 
any very memorable event. 

It was the depot for the stores of the army of 
General Burgoyne, till that commander relinquish- 
ed his connexion with the lakes, and endeavoured 
to push his fortunes without depending upon his 
magazines in the rear. 

Having occupied a very busy morning in visiting 
iiic memorable places at the head of Lake George, 
and having procured specimens of the mineral pro- 
ductions of this region, I proceeded on my journey 
to Fort Anne. JVIr. H , my obliging •ompan- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 163 

ion, attended me, and we were necessitated to re- 
turn some miles through the gorge of the moun- 
tains, and again to view the bloody pond, the French 
moimtain, and the bloody defile. Rarely, I pre- 
sume, have such scenes of horror been exhibited so 
often, within so narrow a space. We may confi- 
dently trust, that they will never be repeated ; that 
Lake George, traversed no longer by armies, its 
forests and its mountains undisturbed by the roar 
of cannon, and its waters polluted no more \\y 
blood ; but visited in peace, by the lovers of the 
sublime and beautiful, and arrayed in its own gran- 
deur and loveliness, will hereafter exhibit the tra- 
gical history of other times, only to impart a pen- 
sive tenderness and a moral dignity to the charm- 
ing scenes with which the story of these events is 
.associated. 

As we emerged from the defile, and turned to 
the left, around the base of the mountains that form 
the eastern barrier of Lake George, we had many 
opportunities of admiring the grandeur of that bar- 
rier, and of contemplating all that wildness of land- 
scape, which, it may be presumed, has undergone 
little change, since it was traversed by the prowling 
savage, intent on the chase, or on his more beloved 
employment, the destruction of his fellow creatures-. 
In this dreadful occupation he has, however, been 
more than rivalled by'the polished nations of Amer- 
ica and of Europe ; who, if they do not pursue war 
with the atrocity of the savage, seem to have fol- 



1G4 TOUR BETWEEN BARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

lowed it with all his eagerness, and have often iden- 
tified themselves with his most horrid cruelties, by 
calling him in as an ally and a friend, and marching 
by his side to slaughter those who are connected by 
the common, (it ought to be by the sacred) lie of 
Christianity. 

In the progress of our ride, we emerged from 
mountain scenerv, and saw many a^ood farms, and 
much arable and pasture land. The country be- 
came much less rug2;ed, although the roads were 
little improved by art ; for they were common and 
often obscure cross roads. 

We met with no adventure, and the failure of 
one of 01.U' waggon wheels, which obliged us to 
walk, and to sustain the machine for tlie last two 
miles, did not prevent our arriving at the appointed 
hour of dinner at old Fort Anne, w hich ^Ir. Wads- 
worth had already reached before me. 

Fort Anne was another post established in the 
French w-ars. It stood about midway between Fort 
Edward and tlie most southern point of Lake 
Champlain, and at the head of batteaux navigation 
on Wood Creek. I did not go to its scite, the ruins 
of which, I am told, are almost obliterated ; its 
well, however, is still to be seen. There is a con- 
siderable village here, which bears the name of the 
Fort. 



TOrR BFTWELN HARTFORD AND <iUEBEC. 165 

BATTLE ^EAR FORT ANNE 

Leaving Fort Anne we crossed Wooil Creek, 
and our journey to Whitehall was ahiiost constantly 
along its banks, or very near them. 

At a narrow pass between some high rocks and 
the river, we were shewn the place where, on the 
8ih of July, 1777, the 9th British regiment, be- 
longing to General Burgoyne's army, sustained a 
licavy loss, by a conflict with the Americans under 
Colonel Long. 

After the surrender of Ticonderoga, General Bur- 
goyne endeavoured to keep up the alarm, by spread- 
ing his parties over the country. With this view. 
Colonel Hill, at the head of the 9th regiment, was 
dispatched after Colonel Long, who, with four or 
live huildred men, principally the invalids and con- 
\alescents of the army, had taken post at Fort Anne, 
and was directed by General Schuyler to defend it. 
Colonel Long, with his party, did not wait an at- 
tack from the enemy, but boldly advanced to meet 
them. "At half past ten in the morning, (says Ma- 
jor Forbes,* of tlie British regiment,) they attacked 
us in front, with a heavy and well directed fire ; a 
large body of them passed the creek on the left, 
and fired from a thick wood across the creek on 
the left flank of the regiment : they then began to 
recross the^creek and attack us in the rear ; we then 

♦ Burgoyne's state of tbe expedition, i:c. 
15 



i6G TOUR BETWEEN UARTFORD AN© Q.UF.BEC. 

ibuud it necessary to change our ground, to prevent 
the regiment's being surrounded ; we took post on 
the top of a hill to our right. As soon as we had 
taken post, the enemy made a very vigorous attack, 
which continued for upwards of two hours ; and 
they certainly would have forced us, liad it not 
been for some Indians that arrived and gave the 
Indian whoop, which we answered with three 
cheers ; the rebels soon after that gave way." — 
The giving way of the Americans was, however, 
caused, not by the terror of the war whoop, but by 
the failure of their ammunition. The fact was, the 
British regiment was worsted, and would probably 
have been taken or destroyed, had Colonel Lon^ 
been well supplied with ammunition. It was sfiid 
by Captain Money, another British officer, that the 
fire was even heavier than it was in tlie obstinate 
battle of September 19th, on Bemus* heights. The 
scene ol this batde is very correctly described above, 
bv Major Forbes. 

On leaving the street of Fort Anne village, we 
crossed a bridge over Wood Creek, and v\ere now 
on its left bank. Immediately after, we came lo a 
narrow pass, only wide enough for the carriage, and 
cut, in a great measure, out of a rocky ledge, which 
terminates here, exactly at the creek. Tiiis ledge 
is the southern end of a high rocky hill, which con- 
verges tov.ards Wood Creek, ai^d between the two 
is a narrow tract of level ground, which terminates 
at the pass already mentioned. On this ground the 



TOUR BETWEEN UARTFORB *ND (QUEBEC. 16*7 

battle took place, and the wood on the right bank 
of the creek, from which the Americans fired upoia 
the left flank of the British, is still there, and it was 
up this rocky hill that they retreated and took their 
stand. 

General Biirgoyne, as usual, claimed a victory in 
this affair, which is understood to have been a 
bloody contest, as indeed it obviously must have 
been, from the narrowness of the defile, and the 
consequent nearness of tlie contending parties. — 
Captain Montgomery, of Colonel Hill's regiment, 
w^as left wounded on the field, and taken prisoner 
by the Americans, which could not have been the 
fact, had the Royal party been victorious. 

Immediately after leaving this battle ground w«^ 
arrived on the banks of the canal, which they are 
now digging from the Hudson to Lake Champlain. 
Being almost constantly in sight of it, and very of- 
ten as near it as possible, we were seriously incom- 
moded by deep gulhes and heaps of miry clay, 
thrown out by the canal diggers, through which we 
were compelled to drag our way ; and when we were 
not in the mud, we found a road excessively rough 
and uncomfortable, from the united effect of much 
rain and much travelling, with occasional hot sun- 
shine, in a country whose basis is a stifi' clay. We 
rode almost constantly in sight of Wood Creek, as 
well as of the canal. 

The rocks on our ride were immense strata of 
gneiss, often so full of garnets, that the ledges ap- 



168 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <iUEBEC. 

peared, at a great distance, spotted with red and 
brown. These primitive hills have every appear- 
ance of being continued, uninterruptedly, to Lake 
George, and it is evident that its eastern barrier 
must be primitive. 

After a very fatiguing journey from Fort Anne, 
several miles of v/hich I walked, we arrived safely 
at Whitehall, at the head of Lake Champlain, a lit- 
tle before night. 

I am told there are on parts of the road from 
Fort Edward, remains of the causev/ay, which Gen- 
eral Burgoyne, with so much labour, caused to bo 
constructed for the passage of his army, but I did 
not see them. It will be remembered that his 
route w^as from Skeensborough, (now Whitehall) to 
Fort Edward. 

WHITEHALL— THE CANAL. 

The canal terminates twenty-two miles from Fon 
Edward, at Wliitehall, v/here they are now con- 
structine; a lock, with handsome ma??y hewn stone. 
There is a considerable descent to the surface of 
Lake Champlain, and Wood Creek, whose mouth 
and that of the canal are side by side, here rushes 
down a considerable rapid with some grandeur. 
This is the place formerly called the falls of Wood 
Creek at Skeensborough. 

As Wood Creek is really a river, navigable by 
larger boats than those which will probably pas? on 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 160 

ihe canal, and as the canal and river from Fort 
Anne, a distance of about ten or eleven miles, are of- 
ten close together, so that a stone might be thrown 
from the one to the other, a traveller does not at once 
see why the larger natural canal should, with vast 
expense,* be deserted for the smaller artificial one. 
Perhaps the shortening of distance, by avoiding the 
numerous windings of the creek — the obtaining of 
a better horse road for dragging the boats — security 
from the effects of floods and drought, in altering 
the quantity of water — and the securing of a more 
adequate supply of water for that part of the canal 
between Fort Anne and the Hudson, may be among 
the reasons, and, in either case, there must be locks 
at Whitehall. However this may be, I cannot doubt 
that some good reason must have influenced those 
who directed this undertaking, although it may not 
be obvious to a stranger.f 

* The whole expense of tlie canal is said to have been esti- 
mated at 5781,000. — JVorcester's Gazetteer. 

f As I walked along, I intenogated a plain man, (apparently a 
substantial farmer,) through whose possessions the canal passed, 
why they dug the canal by the side of Wood Creek, which ap- 
peared, of itself, to be sufficient. He replied, with a good deal of 
petulant warmth, that it was to cut up people's land, and to ex- 
pend a great deal of money, and thus to buy influence and votes, 
and that this part of the canal was perfectly useless. J mention 
the circumstance, not as entering at all into this man's views, or 
as supposing him the least in the right, but merely to give a spe- 
einien of a species of local irritation, which, I believe is not un- 
common in similar cases, where farms are intersected by canals^ 

16* 



170 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC- 
WHITEHALL PORT. 

This is a well built, and apparently thriving little 
place, situated on both branches of the muddy 
Wood Creek, which on its way to the gulf of St. 
Lawrence, sluggishly flows through the village, 
till it makes its escape, into Lake Champlain ; it 
then tumbles down a steep declivity, over a bed of 
rocks, and foams, and roars, as if in exultation, at 
making its escape from its own Lethean channel. 

Whitehall anciently called Skeensborough,was fa- 
mous in General Burgoyne's campaign. Here he de- 
stroyed the little American flotilla, in July, 1777, and 
the baggage and stores of the American army; and 
here he had his head quarters for some time, while 
preparing to pass his army and heavy artillery over 
land to Fort Edward. 

Whitehall is situated at the bottom of a narrow de- 
file in the mountains, and has the bustle and crowd- 
ed aspect of a port, without the quiet and cleanli- 
ness of a village. Some of the houses are situated 
on elevations and declivities, and some in the bot- 
tom of the vale — some are of wood, and others of 
brick, but I was gratified to see many of them 
handsomely constructed of stone — of the fine 
Gneiss rock which abounds here — the two parts 

or by new turnpike roads, or where these facilities for trans- 
portation give a new direction to travelling, or to trade, or alter 
the estimatpd valae of property. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 171 

of the town are connected by a bridge over Wood 
Creek. The population of this town is between 
two and three thousand, and the village contains a 
Presbyterian meeting-house, four warehouses, ten 
stores, and more than an hundred dwelling houses.* 

The fever and ague is now, very prevalent here, 
and many sallow faces, and feeble frames, are to be 
seen about the streets. 

The country, both up Wood Creek, and down 
the lake, contiguous to the town, looks as if it might 
nourish fever and ague, but the inhabitants deny 
that it is their inheritance, and profess to consider 
the visitation of this summer as fortuitous. I am 
afraid that their canal, with its stagnant waters, will 
not help them to more health. A thick fog prevail- 
ed here, most of the time that we were in the place, 
and rendered it uncomfortable to move out of doors 
till the middle of the forenoon, when it blew away. 

This will probably, become a considerable place, 
situated as it is, at the head of the lake navigation, 
and at the point of communication, between the 
Hudson and Lake Champlain. It derives some 
httle importance, from the small navy maintained on 
the lake, in time of war ; there is a small naval arse- 
nal here and at present there are a few naval offi- 
cers and men at this station. 

^ Worcester's GaecUeer. 



172 TOUR BETWEEN HAllTFORD AND ill'ilBKC 

THE OLO MAN 01-' TMK AGK OF LOUIS XIV. 

Two miles from Wliitt'liall, on the Salom road, 
to All)any, lives HnNfiY Franc rsco, a native of 
France, anil of a plaee wliirh lie pronounced Essex, 
but doubtless this is not the orthography, and the 
place was, prohahly, some obscure village, wliich 
may not be noticed in maps and Gazetteers. 

Having a few hours to spare, before tlie depar- 
ture of the steam boat for St. Jolm's, in Cana- 
da, we rode out to see, (probably,) the oldest man 
in America. He believes himself to be one hun- 
dred and thirty-four years old, and the country 
nround believe him to be of this great age. VVheix 
we arrived at his residence, (a plain farmer's house, 
not painted, rather out of repair, and much open to 
the \vind,) he was^ up stairs, at his daily work, of 
spooling and winding yarn. This occupation is 
auxiliary to that of bis wife, who is a weaver, and 
although more than eighty years old, she weaves six 
yards a day, and the old man can supply her with 
more yarn than she can weave. Supposing he must 
be very feeble, we offered to go up stairs to him, 
but he soon came down, walking somewhat stoop- 
ing, and supported by a staff, but witii less apparent 
inconvenience, than most persons exhibit at eighty- 
five or ninety. His stature is of the middle size, and 
altliough his person is rather delicate and slender, 
he stoops but little, even when unsupported. His 
complexion is very fair and delicate, and his cxpres- 



TOUR BKTWEE?? MAKTKOIlL ASJ^ <4i;rfcEC. 173 

sion bright, chcfirfu), and intcllij^ent; his features arc 
handsome, and considering that they have endured 
llirough one third part of a second century, they 
are regular, cornoly, and, wonderfully undisfigured 
by the hand of time ; his cyps arc of a lively blue ; 
liis profile is Grecian, and very fine ; his head is 
completely covered with the most beautiful and del- 
icate white locks imaginable; they are so long and 
abundant as to fall gracefully from the crown of his 
head, parting regularly from a central point, and 
reaching down to his shoulders ; his hair is perfect- 
ly snow white, except where it is thick in his neck ; 
when parted there, it shews some few dark shades, 
the remnants of a formrii- century. 

He still retains the front teeth of his uppor jaw : 
his mouth is not fallen in, like that of old people 
generally, and his lips, particularly, are like those of 
middle hfe ; his voice is strong and sweet toned, 
although a little tremulous ; his hearing very little 
impaired, so that a voice of usual strength, with dis- 
tinct trticulation, enables hira to understand ; his eye- 
sight is sufficient for his work, and he distinguishes 
large print, such as the title page of the Bible, v, ith- 
out glasses ; his health is good, and has always 
been so, except that he has now a cough and ex- 
j>ecto ration. 

He informed .<-, luat hii father, driven out of 
France, by religious persecution, fleJ to Amster- 
dam; by his account, it must have been on account 
of the persecutions of the French protestants, or 



174 TOrR BF-TWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC* 

Hugoiiot5, in the latter part of tiie reign of liOuis 
XIV. At Amsterdam, his father married his moth- 
er, a Dutch woman, five years before he was born, 
and, before that event, returned with her, into 
France. When he was five vears old, his fatliei* 
again fled on account of ** de rehgion,'' as lie 
expressed it, (for his language, although very intel- 
ligible Enghsh, is marked by French peculiarities.) 
He says, he well remembers their flight, and that it 
was in the winter ; for, he recollects, that, as tliey 
were descending a hill, which was covered with 
snow, he cried out to his fiithor, *' O fader, do go 
back and get my little carriole,"* — (a htile boy'$ 
sliding sledge or sleigh.) 

From these dates we are enabled to fix the time of 
his birth, provided he is correct in the main fact, for 
he says he was present at Queen Anne's coronation, 
and was then sixteen years old, the 31st day of May, 
old style. His father, (as he asserts,) after his re- 
turn from Holland, had again been driven irom 
France, by persecution, and the second time took 
refuge in Holland, and afterwards in England, 
whore he resided, with his family, at the time of the 
coronation of Queen Anne, in 170-2. This makes 
Francisco to have been born in 16S6: to have been 
expelled from France in 1691, and therefore, to have 
comoletod his hundred and thirtv-third vear on the 
eleventh of last June ; of course, he is now more 
than three montlis advanced in his hundred and 
thirty-fourtli year. It is aotorious, that about thi 



k;^ 



laUR BETWEtN HARTFORB ANP ^Ut.Bl:C. 173 

Lmo, multJtiuios of French protestants tied, on ac- 
count of the persecutions of Louis XIV, resuhing 
from the revocation of the edict of Nauiz, which oc- 
curred October 12, 1685, and, notwithstanding the 
guards upon the frontiers, and otiier measures of 
precaution, or rigor, to prevent emigi ation, it is well 
known, that for years, muhiiudes continued to make 
their escape, and that thus Louis lost six hundred 
thousand of his best and most useful subjects. I 
asked Francisco, if he saio Queen Anne crowned ; 
he replied, with great animation, and witli an ele- 
vated voice, " Ah I dai I did, and a fine looking wo- 
iuan she was too, as aiiy you dai will see now a- 
days/'* 

He said he fought in all Queen Anne*s wars, 
lind was at manv battles, and under manv command- 
ers, but his memory fails, and he cannot remember 
their names, except the Duke of Midborough, who 
was one of them. 

He has been much cut up by wounds, which he 
sliewed us, but cannot always give a very distinct 
account of his warfare. 

He came out, with his father, from England, t%> 
New- York, probably early in tlio last century, but 
cannot reme^inber the date. 

He said, patheticuJJv, when pressed for accountij 
of his military experience, '* ^j I ^vas in all Queen 
Anne's wars ; I was at Niagara, at Oswego, on the 

* For^n unlettered man. he l^a^ very few gallic pacuJitrities^ 
«T»J rbo5e the coutsoa ones, ""c** ** d l«r tb, &u:. 



176 TOIR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

Ohio, (in Braddock's defeat, in 1755, where he was 
wounded.) I was carried prisoner to Quebec, (m 
the revolutionary war, when he must have been at 
least ninety years old.) I fight in all sorts of wars, 
all my life ; I see dreadful trouble ; and den to have 
dcm, we touirht our friends, turn tories ; and the 
British too, and ti^ht ajrainst ourselves, O, dat was 
de worst of all." 

He here seemed much afiected, and almost too 
full for utterance. It seems, that, during tlie revo- 
lutionary war, he kept a tavern at Fort Edward, and 
he lamented, in a very animated manner, that the 
tories burnt his house, and barn, and four hundred 
bushels of grain ; this, his wife said, was the same 
year that Miss M'Crea was murdered. 

He has had tw o w ives, and twenty-one children ; 
the youngest child is the daughter, in whose house 
he now hves, and she is fifty-two years old ; of 
course, he w as eighty-two when she was born ; they 
suppose several of the older children are still living, 
at a very advanced age, beyond tlie Ohio, but they 
have not heard of them in several years. The fam- 
ily were neighbours to the family o{ Miss M'Crea, 
and were acquainted with the circumstances of her 
tragical death.. 

They said, that the lover, Mjr. -Jones, at first, vow- 
ed vengeance against the Indians, but, on counting 
the cost, wisely gave it up 

Henry Francisco has bcou, all his life, a very ac- 
tive and energetic, although i^gt a stout framed man. 



TOUR iJi ;T\vi:r.N Hartford and qieufx. HT 

He was formerly tbnd of spirit?, and did, for a cer- 
tain period, drink more than was proper, but tlint 
habit appears to hai e been long abandoned. 

In other respects, he has been remarkably ab- 
•itemiousj eatins; bnt Httle, and partlcuhirly, abstain- 
ing, ahiiost entirely, from animal food ; his favonr- 
lie articles being; tea, bread and bntter, and baked 
apples. His wife said, that, after such a breakfast, 
he would go out and work till noon ; then dine up- 
on the same, if he could get it, and then lake the 
same at night, and particularly, that he always drank 
tea, whenever he could obtain it, three cups at a 
time, three times a day. 

The old man manifested a great deal of feeling, 
nnd even of tenderness, which increased, as we 
treated him with respect and kindness ; he often 
shed tears, and particularly, when, on coming away, 
we gave him money ; he looked up to heaven, and 
tervently thanked God, but did not thank us ; he how- 
ever pressed our hands very warmly, wept, and wish- 
ed us every blessing, and expressed something seri- 
ous with respect to our meeting in another world. He 
appeared to have religious impressions on his mind, 
notwitiistanding his pretty frequent exclamations, 
when animated, of Good God ! O, my God! which 
appeared, however, not to be used in levity, and 
were probably acquired in childhood, from the al- 
most colloquial '•\MonDieu,*'&:c. of the French. The 
oldcbt people in the vicinity, remember Francisco, 
as being always^ from their earliest recollection, 

16 



its TOUR BETWEEN JIARTFORD AN© (^UiiBEC. 

much older than themselves; and a Mr. Fuller, who 1 
recently died here, between eighty and ninety years 
of age, thought Francisco was one hundred and 
forty. 

On the whole, although the evidence, rests, in a 
degree, on his own credibility, still, as many things 
corroborate it, and as his character appears remark- 
ably sincere, guileless, and affectionate, I am inchn- 
ed to believe, that he is as old as he is stated to 
be. He is really a most remarkable and interest- 
ing old man ; there is nothing, either in his person 
or dress, of the negligence and squalidness of ex~ 
treme age, especially when not in elevated circum- 
stances ; on the contrary, he is agreeable and attrac- 
tive, and were he dressed in a superior manner, and 
placed in a handsome and well furnished apartment, 
he would be a most beautiful old man. 

Little could I have expected to converse, and 
shake hands with a man, who has been a soldier in 
most of the wars of this country for one hundred 
years — who, more than a century ago, fought under 
Malborough, in the wars of Queen Anne, and who, 
(already grown up to manhood,) saw her crowned 
one hundred and seventeen years since ; who, one 
hundred and twenty-eight years ago, and in the 
century before the last, was driven from France, by 
the proud, magnificent, and intolerant Louis XIV, 
and who has lived a forty -fourth part of all thetim-^ 
that (he human race have occuined this globe! 



iOIJR BETWEEN RARTFORB AND (QUEBEC. 179 

What an interview ! It is like seeing one come 
back from the dead, to relate the events of centuries, 
BOW svv'allowed up in the abyss of time ! Except his 
cough, which, they told us, had not been of long 
standing, we saw nothing in Francisco's appearance, 
that might indicate a speedy dissolution, and he 
seemed to have sufficient mental and bodily powers^ 
to endure for years yet to come. 

PASSAGE DOWN LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

The carriage and horses w^ere received on board 
the steam-boat at Whitehall, an accommodation 
which we had not expected ; and thus we avoided 
the inconvenience, of having them go around by 
land, to Burlington in Vermont, to wait our return 
from Canada. The steam-boat lay in a wild 
glen, immediately under a high, precipitous, rocky 
hill, and not far from the roaring outlet of Wood 
Creek ; w^e almost drop down upon the port all, on u 
sudden, and it strikes one like an interesting discov- 
ery, in a country, so wild, and so far inland, as to 
present, in other respects, no n-autical images, or 
realities. 

We left Whitehall between two and three o'clock 
in the afternoon, in the Congress, a neat and rapid 
boat, and the only one remaining on the lake, since 
the late awful catastrophe of the Phoenix. 

The lake, for many miles, after it receives Wood 
Creek, is, in (net, nothing more, than a narrow slug- 



180 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

gish river, passing, without apparent motion, amon^ 
high, rocky, and even mountainous ridges, be- 
tween whose feet, and the lake, there is, generally, 
a considerable extent of low, wet, marshy ground, 
of a most unpromising appearance, for any purpose, 
but to produce fever and ague, unless by and by, 
it should, by dykeing and ditching, be rescued, 
like Holland, from the dominion of the water, and 
converted to the purposes of agriculture. 

The channel, through which we passed, is, for 
miles, so narrow, that the steam-boat could scarcely 
put about in it, and there seemed hardly room for 
the passage of the little sloops, which w^e frequently 
met going up to Whitehall. At the very head of this 
natural canal, lie moored, to the bank, stem and 
stern, the flotillas''^ of Macdonough and Downie, 
now, by the catastrophe of battle, united into one. 

As we passed rapidly by, a few seamen shewed 
their heads through the grim port-holes, from 
which, five years ago, the cannon poured fire and 
death, and we caught a glimpse of the decks, that 
were then covered with the mutilated and the slain;, 
and deluged with their generous blood. 

^* It \va? a great [Accn of .seh'-denial to mp, not to go on board 
of this flotilla, but, (a clrcurastanco. which I shonKl uot othervvise 
mention,) I was, all the time we were at Whileliall, and indeed 
all the way to Montreal, in a stcite of severe suffering, from an 
ague in my face and head, wliich obliged me to avoid the damp 
air, and the damp meadow?, where the flotilla lay. moored to (Rife 
natural bank of the creek. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,irEBE<5. 181 

Sparless, black and frowning, these now disman- 
tled ships, look like the coffins of the brave, and 
will remain, as long as worms and rot will allow 
them, sad monuments of the bloody conflict. 

Our passage down the lake presented nothing 
particularly interesting, except the grandeur of the 
double barrier of mountains, which, although much 
inferior in height to those of Lake George, are still 
very bold and commanding. 

It seems as if the lake had been poured into the 
only natural basin, of magnitude, which exists in 
this mountainous region, and as if its boundaries 
were irrevocably fixed, by the impassable barriers 
of rocks and alpine land. 

The mountains, particularly on the eastern side, 
presenting to the eye their naked precipitous clifFsj 
composed of the edges of the strata, were evidently, 
(almost without exception,) gneiss. This was the 
fact also, from Lake George to Lake Champlain, 
and at Whitehall, notwithstanding the assertion of a 
late English traveller,"* that they are lime-stone. 
At Whitehall, the rocks have a very beautiful strati* 
fication ; the hills appear as if cracked in two, and 
one part being removed, we have a fine vertical sec- 
tion; both their horizontal and perpendicular divis- 
ions, resemble a regular piece of masonry, and this 
is the prevailing fact, as we pass down the lake. 

* Lieutenant Hall, whose book is generally a manly and interest- 
ing performance,, but sometimes inaccurate on geological topfts. 
16* 



IS2 TOUll BETWEKN HAllTFOIt© AN© QUi:BLC. 

Tlie dip of these strata of gneiss, which is the east, 
is very moderate, not exceeding a few degrees, and 
this appeared to be the general fact. On our ride 
from Fort Anne to Whitehall, the road passed down 
one of the natural declivities, formed by the dip of 
the rock ; for several hundred feet, to the right and 
left, and in the direction of the road, the carriage 
rattled over this perfectly naked and smooth natu- 
ral pavement. I had, to-day, no opportunity to land, 
to inspect the rocks, hut, as the boat often passed 
very near tlie cliffs, so)netimes within a few yards, I 
was sufficiently satisfied, concerning their general 
nature, and that the country was highly primitive. 

During our passage of twenty-five miles, to Ti- 
condcroga, we had a fine descending sun, shining in 
full strength, upon the bold scenery of the lake, and 
that I might enjoy it, undisturbed by the bustle of 
a crowded deck, I took my seat in the carriage, 
where I was protected equally from the fumes of 
the boat, and the chill of the air, and could, at my 
leisure, catch every variety of images, and all the 
changes of scenery, that were passing before me. 
It was with very great regret, that I found we could 
not stop, even for a moment, at Ticonderoga and 
Crown Point ; and it was not till! had devised and 
dismissed several abortive plans for leaving the boat" 
and getting on afterwards, or in some other way, 
that I submitted to pass these interesting places. 

Tlio sun, setting in splendor, shot his last beams 
over Mount Defiance, as we came in sight of it, and 



TUUll BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEC. 133 

the commencing twilight, softened by the first ap- 
proaches of evening, which was not yet so far ad- 
vanced, as to throw objects into obscurity, cast a 
pensive veil over the scite and ruins of 

TICONDEROGA. 

The remains of this celebrated fortress, once so 
highly important, but no longer, an object either of 
hope or fear, are still considerably conspicuous. As 
we came up with, and, from the narrowness of the 
lake, necessarily passed very near them, I was grat- 
ified, as much as I could be, without landing, by a 
view of their ruins, still imposing in their appear- 
ance, and possessing, with all their associations, a 
high degree of heroic grandeur. 

They stand on a tongue of land, of considerable 
elevation, projecting south, between Lake Cham- 
plain, which winds around and passes on the east^ 
and the passage into Lake George, which is on the 
west. 

The remains of the old works are still conspicu- 
ous, and the old stone barracks, erected by the 
French, are in part standing. 

This fort was built by the French ; and Lord 
Howe, and many other gallant men, lost their lives 
in the attempt to storm it, in 1758. 

From this fortress, issued many of those fero- 
cious incursions of French and Indians, which for- 
merly distressed the English settlements ; and its 



184 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^tlEBKC . 

fall, in 1759, when, on the approach of General 
Amherst with a powerful army, it was abandoned 
by the French, without fighting, filled the northern 
colonies with joy. 

In 1777, great hopes were reposed upon this for- 
tress, as a barrier against invasion } it was regarded 
as being emphatically the strong hold of the North ; 
and when General Burgoyne, with astonishing ef- 
fort, dragged cannon up the precipices of Mount 
Defiance, and shewed them on its summit, Ticonde- 
roga, no longer tenable, was precipitately abandoned. 

Mount Defiance stands on the outlet of Lake 
George, and between that and Lake Champlain, 
and most completely commands Ticonderoga, w^hich 
is far below, and within fair cannon shot. On the 
.slightest glance at the scene, it is a matter of utter 
astonishment, even to one who is not a military 
man, how so important a point came to be over- 
looked by all preceding commanders : probably it 
arose from the belief, which ought not to have been 
admitted till the experiment had been tried, that it 
was impossible to convey cannon to its summit. — 
On the right is Mount Independence, where there 
was a formidable fort at the time of General Bur- 
goyne's invasion. 

The shadows of the night were descending on 
the venerable Ticondcroga, as we left it, and when. 
I looked upon its walls and environs, so long and so 
often clustering with armies — formidable for so great 
a length of time in all the apparatus and prepara- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 186 

.tions of war, and the object of so many campaigns 
and battles ; but now, exhibiting only one solitary 
smoke, curling from a stone chimney in its half- 
fallen barracks, with not one animated being in sight; 
while its massy ruins, and the beautiful green de- 
clivities, sloping on all sides to the water, were still 
and motionless as death, I felt indeed that I w^as be- 
holding a striking emblem of the mutability of power, 
and of the fluctuations of empire. Ticonderoga, no 
longer within the confines of a hostile country — no 
longer a rallying point for ferocious savages and 
for formidable armies — no more a barrier against 
invasion, or an object of seige or assault, has now 
become only a pasture for cattle. 

At Ticonderoga, the lake takes a sudden but 
short turn to the right, and forms a small bay, with 
Mount Defiance on the left. Mount Independence 
on the right, and Ticonderoga in front. This scene 
is very fine, and the whole outline of the spot — the 
mountains near, and the mountains at a distance — 
the shores — the bay — and the ruins, all unite to 
>hake a very grand landscape. 

Night was upon us, before we were up with 
Crown Point, that other scarcely less celebrated, or 
less important fortress. The moon served only to 
enable me dimly to see undefined masses of stone 
and earth, as a bystander observed, " there are the 
ruins of Crown Point !'• 

Almost every thing that has been said historical- 
ly of Ticonderoga, h applicable to Crown Point, 



' ^80 XOUll BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qULEEV'* 

only there has not hc(Mi much bluod slicd before its 
walls. This fortress also, was built by the French; 
it was equally aiuioying to the English (.'oloiiies as 
Ticonderoga ; its reduction was as ardently desired, 
i\nd as ninny campaigns were undertaken for this 
purpose. Like Ticonderoga, it was retained by 
the French till 17.59, when it was quietly abandon- 
ed by them, and Lord Amherst, on taking posses- 
sion of it, built an entire new fortress of stone, and 
made it much jnore formidable than before. 



A NICJIIT ON J.AIvn CMAMl'LAIN. 

The recent loss of the Phaniix, and the tragicol 
events by which it was accompanied, might well 
have caused us some anxiety, in the prospect of a 
night passage on the lake ; but the weather was fine, 
and the water smooth, and we had a good boar, 
furnished with a gentleman's cabin on deck. A^ 
I was, however, scarcely able to sleep at all, I 
passed most of the night in the carriage, both 
as being a pleasant situation, and as affording me 
some opportunity of observing the fire, the man- 
agement of which I was willing enough to see. I 
am sorry to say, that I was disappointed in not ob- 
serving that anxious vigilance, which, after the late 
dreadful occurrence, wc should naturally expect to 
find. Large piles of pine wood, very dry, of 
course, and also very hot, from their being placed 
near the fiu-nace ^\\k\ boilers, occupied the middle 



rOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 187 

6f the vessel. A candle was placed by one of the 
people on a projecting end of a stick of this wood. 
It had burned nearly down, and a fresh north wind 
blew the flame directly towards, and almost against 
the pine slivers, which were very dry and full of 
turpentine,' and thereiore in a condition to catch fire 
with the greatest ease. Happily, from the contig- 
uous carriage window, Mr. W observed this 

threatening candle, and after some importunity with 
the people, (who seemed very indifferent to the 
danger,) succeeded in having it removed. It might, 
?ery naturally, have caused the Congress to share 
the fate of the Phoenix, which was burnt, by a can- 
dle placed in a situation of less apparent danger ; 
that is, near a shelf in a closet, where it communi- 
cated fire to the board.* 

We found one other unpleasant circumstance : 
the boat stopped, several times, at different placco. 
on the two shores of the lake, to deliver and re- 
ceive freight, and our Captain being extremely dil- 
atory, we were delayed one and two hours at a 
place. 

3CENKRY, PLATTSBURGH, he. 

At three o'clock in the morning we stopped at 
Burlington, and left the carriage and horses, with 

*0n our return, we fou-nd the Congress under a new Captain, 
and a much oiore strict police, which left no farther ropna ta 
romplain of negugence. 



18S TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

the young man to take care of them, till our return 
from Canada. It was day light before we left this 
place, and the morning presented a scene so similar 
to Long Island Sound, that we could hardly per- 
suade ourselves that we were on fresh water. Al- 
though the weather was fair, and we could see the 
most distant shores, the high mountains were hardly 
distinguishable, being shrouded in vapour. 

Early in the forenoon we were in Plattsburgh 
Bay, and passed over the scene of Commodore 
Macdonough's brilliant victory ; an event singularly 
decisive in its circumstances, momentous in its re- 
suits, and honourable in the highest degree to that 
able and gallant commander. 

At this memorable place, (the only one since we 
left Ticonderoga and Crown Point, where a long 
delay would have been grateful.) we had time only 
to walk a little way towards the village, and to visit 
one of the batteries, signalized in September, 1814, 
in repelling the enemy from the passage of the Sar- 
anac. Dr. L. Foot- of the army, caused the little 
time we had to spend, to pass both agreeably and 
usefully ; but we were soon again under way, and 
doubling Cumberland Head, round which the brave 
but unfortunate Commodore Downie sailed, to de- 
feat and death, we left the beautiful bay of Platts- 
burgh, with all its grand and interesting associa,- 

tiOHS. 

* A friend, atid for several years a pupil. 



TOUR BETWELN HAKTFUKM AN» Q,UEBEC. 189 

ENTRANCE INTO CANADA. 

Our passage down the remainder of the lake was 
very rapid, and we soon arrived at the American 
Custom-house ; the boat was visited, but our bag- 
gage was not examined, and we were treated with 
the greatest civility. 

This ceremony, (for it was a ceremony, merely,) 
being over, we were very soon abreast of the great 
stone castle, resembling that on Governor's Island, 
at New-York. It was erected by the American 
Government, on Rouse's Point, upon the western 
side of the entrance into the river Sorel or Riche- 
lieu, and was designed to command the communi- 
cation between that river and Lake Champkin. In 
consequence of a late determination that the boun- 
dary line (the 45th degree of latitude,) passes a httle 
south of this castle, it now falls to the British Gov- 
ernment. 

The current favoured our progress, and we 
pushed on very impetuously through the quiet wa- 
ters of this very considerable river, whose smooth 
surface was thrown into waves by our rapid 
course. The country on both sides is the most 
uninteresting that can be well imagined. It is a low 
wet swamp, not redeemed like Holland, but, to a 
considerable extent, too much covered by water to 
admit of immediate cultivation. A few patches of 
clear and dry land, and a few poor hamlets appear 
liere and there., but there is no village worth mea- 

17 



190 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC 

tioning in the whole distance of twenty miles to St. 
John's. The land appears to the eye as if it were 
even lower than the water, and we naturally think 
of fevers and agues, which, however, are said to be 
of rare occurrence, and are probably prevented by 
a temperate climate. At some future day, should 
this country become populous, this low marshy land, 
which is probably fertile, may be rescued from the 
water, by the same means which have caused such 
scenes of richness and beauty to be exhibited in 
Holland. 

The only very interesting object in the river, is 
the Isle aux Noix, eleven miles from the frontier, 
and eight or nine from St. John's. Tlie glitter of 
arms — the splendor of the British uniform — the im- 
posing appearance of ramparts and cannon — the 
beauty of the log barracks of the officers, painted in 
stripes — and the bustle of military activity, of course 
excited a degree of interest, and afforded an agree- 
able relief from the dull scenes of forests and 
swamps. 

The Isle aux Noix is important in time of war, 
as being the frontier British post, and has been many 
times, a point of rendezvous for armies and flotillas, 
not only for the invaders, but for the defenders of 
Canada. 

We both left and received passengers at this Tsl- 
and, but without going ourselves on shore, and less 
than one hour from the time we left it brought us 
to the wharf at St. John's, in Lower Canada : we 



TOLR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (iUEBEC. 19J 

arrived before night on the 30th of September, ten 
days from our leaving Hartford.^ 



ST. JOHN'S, AND DEPARTURE FOR MONTREAL 

St. John^s. — I scarcely saw any thing more of 
this httle town, than what might be observed 
in passing to the Inn, where we found attention 
and kindness, but a house so crowded, that we 
were very wilhng to leave it on our way to Mont- 
real. 

We did not go witli most of our steam boat com- 
panions in the stage, which went on in the night, to 
La Prarie, but the next morning were furnished 
with an extra conveyance, in which we proceeded 
on our journey. There are good stages at St. John's, 
exactly like the most common kind of American 
stage coaches, or rather stage waggons, and they 
are furnished with good horses. Indeed, we were 
informed that these establishments were set up by 
Americans, whose enterprize and activity are re- 
markably contrasted with the unvarying habits of 
the native Canadians. 

The private carriage in which we travelled, was 
an old fashioned hack, such as might have been 
seen in American towns twenty or twenty-five years 
ago; the canvass curtains, (without windows,) were 
torn, had few or no strings to secure them in place, 

* Such is the expedition of the public vehicle^i that this dis- 
tance may be travelled in three dav? 



192 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 



arid flapping in a brisk head wind, they served t% 
let in, rather than to exclude the cold air, and very 
imperfectly screened us from a driving rain. Our 
coachman was a Vermont lad, who had emigrated 
in childhood, along with his parents, but he had not 
caught the Canadian tardiness of movement, for he 
drove us at a great rate, over a road very level, but 
by no means smooth ; we were, however, willing to 
bear pretty severe jolting for the sake of expedi- 
tion. 

We had an interesting ride of twelve miles, on 
the left bank of the Sorel river, which murmured 
along by our side, and were charmed with the pret- 
ty comfortable white cottages, constructed very 
neatly of hewn logs, and forming apparently dry 
•and warm dwelhngs. Almost every moment we 
met the cheerful looking peasants, driving their lit- 
tle carts, (charrettes,) drawn by horses of a diminu- 
tive size. The men were generally standing up in 
the body of the cart, with their lighted pipes in their 
months, and wore red or blue sashes and long conic- 
al woollen caps of various colours. These carts 
were furnished with high rails, and occasionally with 
seats, occupied by females and children : they ap- 
peared, (like our one horse waggons,) to furnish the 
most common accommodation for transporting botli 
commodities and persons. 

We gave our horses a few moments of rest at 
Chambly, but w^ere prevented by the rain from leav- 
ing our Inn. I regretted this, however, the less. 



TOTR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 193 

as we expected to return through the same place, 
and might be more favourably situated. 

We lost no time in resuming our journey, and 
drove in less than three hours to Longueil, through 
a perfectly level country, well cultivated, fertile, 
considerably populous, and furnished with very neat 
and comfortable white houses, constructed of hewn 
logs, like those on the Sorel river. The barns, 
frequently of a large size, were usually built in the 
same manner ; but the want of good frame work 
was very obvious in their frequently distorted ap- 
pearance. 

FIRST GLIMPSE OF MONTREAL. 

At the village of Longueil, or a little before ar- 
riving there, we caught the first view of Montreal. 
The first impression of this city is very pleasing. 
In its turrets and steeples, glittering with tin ; in its 
thickly built streets, stretching between one and two 
miles along the river, and rising gently from it ; in 
its environs, ornamented with country houses and 
green fields ; in the noble expanse of the St. Law- 
rence, sprinkled with islands ; in its foaming and 
noisy rapids ; and in the bold ridge of the moun- 
tain, which forms the back ground of the city, we 
recognize all the features necessary to a rich and 
magnificent landscape, and perceive among these 
indications, decisive proofs of a flourishing inland 
f*mporium. 

17^ 



194 TOUR BETWKKN UAHTtORD ANB ^iUKBEt. 

PASSAGE OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

If we experienced some elevation of feellns; at 
the first view of the St. Lawrence, we were not 
likely to have our pride cherished by the means 
which conveyed us over this mighty river. Two 
Canadian boatmen ferried us over in a canoe, hol- 
lowed out of a single log. Our baggage being duly 
placed, we were desired to sit, lace to face, on 
some clean straw placed on boards which lay across 
the bottom of the boat ; we were situated thus low, 
that our weight might not disturb tlie balance of the 
canoe, and we wore requested to sit perfectly still. 
Our passage was to be nearly three miles obliquely 
up stream, and a part of the way against some pow- 
r?rful rapids. 

Between us and Montreal, considerably up the 
stream, lay the brilliant island of St. Helena. It 
is elevated, con.mands a fine view of the city, is 
strongly marked by entrenchments, is fertile, and 
covered in part wiih fine timber. It is a domain, 
and we were much struck with the beautiful situa- 
ilon of the house on the south. side of the island, be- 
longing to the Baroness Lonqueil. ^^ ith the island 
and river, it would form a fme subject for a pic- 
ture. 

Our boatmen conveyed us, without much ditficul- 
IV, to the southern point of this island, between 
which, and the city, owing to tlie compression of 
the river by the island, a powerful rapid rushes 



TUUtt BETWEEN HARTFORD AND t^UEBEC. 195 

along, with much agitation, and a current, which it 
is very difficult to stem. At the point of the isl- 
and, particularly, ahranch of the river, confined by 
rocks, dashes along, almost with the rapidity of wa- 
ter, bursting from a flood gate. Through this strait, 
it was necessary to pass, and, for some time, the 
boat went back, and even after landing us on the 
island, the canoe was coming around, broadside to 
the current, when we were apprehensive that our 
baggage must be thrown into the river ; but, by 
main strength, they pushed the boat through this 
torrent, and along the shore of the island, till the 
rapid became so moderate, that they ventured again 
I to take us in, and push for the city. It took these 
poor fellows a toilsome hour to convey us over, and 
they demanded but a pittance for their services. 



FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MONTREAL. 

We mounted a steep slippery bank, from the 
river, ani. . .jnd ourselves in one of the principal 
streets of the city. It required no powerful effort 
of the imagination, to conceive that we were arrived 
in Europe. A town, compactly built of stone, 
without w^ood or brick, indicating permanency, and 
even a degree of antiquity, presenting some hand- 
some public and private buildings, an active and 
numerous population, saluting the ear with two lan- 
guages, but principally with the French — every thing 



190 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

seems foreign, and we easily feel that we are a great 
way from home. 

ACCOMMODATIONS OF A PUBLIC HOUSE. 

We were no sooner ushered into the mansioa 
house, a vast building, constructed of hewn stone, 
than we could easily imagine ourselves in one of the 
principal coffee-houses of London. Assiduity, kind- 
ness, quiet, and, in a word, domestic comfort, in ev- 
ery particular, except the absence of the family cir- 
cle, were at once in our possession. 

The master of the house was an Enghshman, 
and, having been brought up in a London coffee- 
house, he very naturally transferred all that it is de- 
sirable and comfortable, in tiie habits of those es- 
tablishments, to his own, in Montreal. 

Being worn out with suffering, from the cause 
which I mentioned at Vv^hitehall, I was obliged to 
betake myself immediately to my room and bed ; 
but, I was not permitted to feel that I was a stran- 
ger ; so kind were the attentions, and so appropri- 
ate the various little comforts and refreshments, that 
were provided and administered. 

The next morning, having obtained complete re- 
lief, from what I had not expected, superior surgic- 
al skill,* I was enabled to begin to enjoy, as well 
as to see the new objects around me. 

*rn a mode snfficieatly curious and original; which I shall men- 
tion furHicr on. 



rOUR BETWEEN HAHTFORD AND QUEBT^C. 197 
MANNERS OF THE GUESTS. 

Dinner here, is at five o'clock ; soup was ready, 
however, at almost any previous hour, and we par- 
took of this refreshment, not having been recently 
accustomed to so late an hour for dinner. We found 
at table, a small party of very respectable men, ap- 
parently Englishmen ; and we were particularly and 
agreeably struck, with the gentlemanly manners of 
every individual at table, where, although the guests 
were strangers to us, and probably most of them to 
each other, all were polite, attentive, and sociable, 
without that selfish indifference, or rude familiarity, 
so common at some public tables, where a correct 
medium seems hardly to be understood. 

The manners of this circle were particularly 
contrasted with those of a certain group, which 
we had encountered during our tour, and from which 
it was impossible, at the time, to make our escape. 
They were noisy, drinking, swearing, card-playing 
gentlemen ; and of all ages, from twenty to sixty, 
but in their manners so alike, that youth and age 
were fitly associated. 

We began, at evening, to receive the calls of 
those to whom w^e had letters, particularly of 
■^ome of our own countrymen, and obtained at 
once, all the local information, which we needed, to 
direct our immediate movements, and to enable u^ 
iO form and mature our plans. 



198 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

EVENING SCENES ON THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

The weather being mild and fine, parlour fires 
were not yet kindled in Canada, but, as we prefer- 
red a fire for ourselves, we retired at candle lighting, 
into a very large and well furnished room, with a 
bow end, and overlooking a terrace, thirty feet wide, 
and one hundred and forty-four long, which is the 
length of the house. This terrace is thirty feet 
above the river, immediately on its brink, and com- 
mands a view of it, for many miles up and down the 
stream, and of the country on the other shore, thus 
presenting a most delightful prospect. This room 
was our parlour, while we remained in the house, 
and we were particularly fond of viewing from its 
windows, and from the terrace below, the fine scenes 
of twilight and evening, on the St. Lawrence. 

We had anticipated some inconvenience, in vis- 
iting Canada, so late in the season, on account of 
the shortness of the days ; but the long and bright 
twilight, both at morning and evening, made us am- 
ple amends, and we found as much light as we left 
behind us, although less of sunshine. At half after 
five, with the sun down, and the moon at the full, in 
the firmament, we sit at the dinner table, apparently 
in broad day light. 

From the moment the sun is down, every thing 
becomes silent on the shore, which our windows 
overlook, and the murmurs of the broad St. Law- 
rence, more than two mile? w^ide, immediately be- 



TGUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 199 

fore us, and a little way to the right, spreading to 
five or six miles in breadth, are, sometimes for an 
hour, the only sounds that arrest our attention. Ev- 
ery evening since we have been here, black clouds 
and splendid moonlight have hung over, and embel- 
lished this tranquil scene ; and, on two of those 
evenings, we have been attracted to the window, by 
tlie plaintive Canadian boat song. In one instance, 
it arose from a solitary voyager, floating in his light 
canoe, which occasionally appeared and disappear- 
ed on the sparkhng river ; and, in its distant course, 
seemed no larger than some sporting insect. In 
another instance, a larger boat, with more nume- 
rous, and less melodious voices, not indeed in per- 
fect harmony, passed nearer to the shore, and gave 
additional life to the scene. A few moments after, 
the moon broke out from a throne of dark clouds, 
and seemed to convert the whole expanse of water 
into one vast sheet of glittering silver, and, in the 
very brightest spot, at the distance of more than a 
mile, again appeared a solitary boat, but too distant 
to admit of our hearing the song, with which the 
boatman" was probably solacing his lonely course. 

DAY SCENES ON THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

The mere contemplation of a river, presenting 
^uch a broad expanse of water, at the distance of 
tire hundred miles from the ocean, is interesting and 
pleasing. At this season it is a tranquil scene, but 



200 TUUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 

the river presents very considerable diversity. On 
our right, it spreads into a broad lake, generally 
smooth, but, in numbers of places, it is ruffled by 
rapids, and broken by ledges of rocks ; on the left, 
it runs with great rapidity, between the island of 
St. Helena and the city, and presents, at all times, 
a lively and magnificent water course. 

Occasionally, sloops, ships, and steam boats are 
seen on the river, either passing rapidly down, or 
struggling against the current, but the most com- 
mon craft of the river, is of every size, from a small 
canoe, to the largest boats that are built without 
decks. 

The margin of the river, adjoining the city, is, at 
most places where there are no wharves, lined with 
floating rafts and separate logs, intended both for 
fuel and for timber. 

A scene of considerable activity is exhibited im- 
mediately before our terrace, by the carts and 
horses, which are driven into the river, as far as is 
necessary, and frequently till the horses can hardly 
keep their feet ; the object is to obtain the wood, 
which is thus conveniently loaded, as the body of 
the cart is as low as the surface of the river ; and 
single sticks, too large for the carts, are drawn out 
seperately by the horses. The carts are also used 
for the conveyance of water casks to supply the 
city ; the horses are driven into the water, and the 
casks are filled, very conveniently, without remov*- 
iug them from the cart. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q^UEBEC. 201 

We frequently observed, on the Sorel river, the 
French women, washing at the river's edge. The 
same employment is seen here before our windows. 
Sometimes the clothes are placed on boards, in the 
jriver, and pounded; and, at other times, the wo- 
men dance on them, dashing the water about like 
ducks, and seemingly as much for frolic as for work. 
All these employments, are attended with much 
vociferation, and contribute to give life and interest 
to the quiet scenes of a great inland water. 

Some of the circumstances which I have just 
mentioned, are, it is true, trivial, but still, they tend 
to characterise the country and its inhabitants. 

PASSAGE TO QUEBEC. 

I purposely omit to make any other remarks on 
Montreal, till our return from Quebec, when we ex- 
pect to pass several days more in this city, and the 
observations of both residences may be so blended, 
as, in a good degree, to avoid repetition. 

We remained in Montreal three days and a half, 
and went on board the steara-boat to lodge, on the 
night of the fourth. We lay quietly at the wharf till 
one o'clock, in the morning of the fifth ; and whea 
day hght was fully disclosed, we had passed many 
miles down the river, and v/ere impelled rapidly 
forward by the united force of steam and current. 
The weather, which, the day before, had been cold. 

18 



202 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QLEBL%, 

became delightful, with a mild soft air, and a bril- 
liant sun. Nothing, for a tame scene, could be 
finer, than the one which surrounded us after sun 
rise. The flat shores are every where studded with 
white-washed cottages, appearing (like those which 
we had seen, when travelling by land,) to be all warm 
and comfortable ; and, at the distance of everj^ two 1 
or three miles, appeared a little snowy village, with 
Its glittering tin spire ; if it included a house, a little 
superior to the cottage, tliat was also covered with 
the same material. 

TOWN OF 50REL. 

Early in the forenoon, we were at the town of 
Sorel, at the mouth of the river of the same name. 
This is the point of communication between Lake 
Champlain, and the St. Lawrence, and is, of course, 
a station very important to the countries on these 
great waters. 

At this place, we were detained an hour to take in 
wood, which is here, as in the United States, dry pine. 
The shore is so bold, that the boat lies at the bank, 
and this is so high, that the wood was thrown down 
upon the deck, with a good deal of violence, so as 
to endanger, and actually to break, some of the 
glass in the skv Ii2:ht5. 

We went on shore, and walked through the prin- 
cipal streets of the town. 



TOL'R BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 20.3 

The town of Sorel, or, (as it is sometimes called,) 
William Henry, stands " on the scite of a fort built 
in the year 1665, by order of Mons. de Tracy ;" 
it was intended as a defence against the incursions 
of the Indians, and received its name of Sorel, from 
a Captain of Engineers, who superintended its con* 
struction. 

The present town was begun about the year 1785, 
by some loyalists and disbanded soldiers, and it 
continues to be the residence of many old military 
pensioners. 

Although the plan of the town occupies about 
one hundred and twenty acres, the number of hous- 
es does not much exceed one hundred and fifty, 
exclusive of stores, barracks, and government build- 
ings. 

The plan is regular, and the streets intersect at 
right angles, leaving a central square of more than 
five hundred feet on a side.* The town is built prin- 
cipally of wood, and the aspect of many of the buil- 
dings is more like that of an Anglo-American town, 
than any thing that we have seen in Canada. The 
population is about fifteen hundred. The churches 
are of stone. We visited that of the Catholics, 
which is somewhat ornamented with pictures, but 
cannot be considered as particularly handsome. We 
found people at their devotions, and a priest in af- 
CBndance. 

*Bouchctte 



204 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QL'EBEC. 

Sorel was occupied by General Thomas in May. 
1776, with the greater part of the American army, 
on their retreat from before Quebec. Here Gene- 
ral Thomas died of the small pox. 

The river Sorei is two hundred and fifty yards 
broad, opposite to the town, but it presents a singu- 
lar example of a river much narrower at its embou- 
chure, than at its origin : it is more than four times 
as wide at St. Johns, as at Sorel, and continues to 
widen all the way up the stream, to the Lake 
Champlain ; from St. Johns, there is also a ship 
navigation into the lake ; but, from the town of So- 
rel, vessels of one hundred and fifty tons, ascend 
only twelve or fourteen miles.* 

From the town of Sore], we proceeded among a 
great many islands, and, after passing a few miles, 
entered that great expanse of the river, which is 
ten miles wide, and twenty miles long, and is called 
the Lake of St. Peter. It has, indeed, a very great 
resemblance to a lake, being smooth, and without 
apparent motion. 

We felt as we had done in Lake Champlain, that 
this must be Long-Island sound, and here indeed, 
the resemblance is much greater, as the water is 
green, like the ocean. The water is, of course, 
shallow, and some caution is necessary, to avoid 
running aground. The shores are very fiat and 
swampy, and, in a hot climate, would probably be 
sickly. 

=• Bouchette 



•JOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEflEC. 205 

At the large town of Three Rivers, where we ar- 
rived by three o'clock in the afternoon, and which 
is halfway between Montreal and Quebec, we stop- 
ped in the stream, a few minutes, to take in passen- 
gers. There were some ships lying at this place, 
but there is no harbour, other than the stream, nor 
did I observe any accommodations for ships, except 
the naked banks of the river. This town is the 
third in the province, but very far behind the other 
two ; it contains about three hundred and twenty 
houses, and two thousand five hundred inhabitants ; 
it extends about one thousand three hundred yards 
along the river, and was founded in 1618.* 

Proceeding down the river, we continued to en-» 
joy a delightful day's sail, with a perfect Indian 

summer. Mr. W and myself had a large state 

room to ourselves, where we could retire in perfect se- 
clusion, whenever we did not choose to be among the 
passengers, who, however, were few and civil, and, 
as the boat was very large, we had none of the in- 
conveniences of a crowd. I occupied a good deal 
of the day in writing, as the scenery had a very great 
degree of sameness, and from the windows I could 
catch a ghmpse of its changes, so as to go seasona- 
bly on deck, and not to lose any important object. 

Towards evening, when we were just above the 
Richelieu Rapids, and the surface of the river ex- 
tremely smooth, the Captain pointed out a large 

*Boucbetfe. 

18* 



208 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

seal, sleeping on the water, at the distance of per- 
haps two or three hundred yards. He fired at it 
five or six times, without effect; we could see the 
balls strike the water, very near the seal, but the ani- 
mal did not even awake, or change its position. 

As tlie rapids of Richelieu, where the river is very 
narrow, and the current rushes tumultuously ovef 
. a rocky bottom, are esteemed dangerous for night 
navigation, and as it was already evening, we cast 
anchor to wait the return of day. This was just 
what we could have wished, for, had we continued 
on our course, we must have arrived at Quebec in 
the night, and thus have lost the noble scenery of 
the approach to this city. We had also the addi- 
tional advantage of a night of perfect quiet and se- 
curity, undisturbed by the jar of the machinery, or 
the trampling of the people. Indeed, had we been 
in motion, we should have felt very secure at night,t 
for the fire and the boiler were as far from us, as 
the whole length of a common European ship, and 
no accident has ever happened in this river. 

In the morning we were again under way, as soon as 
we could see sufficiently to avoid the rocks, which are 
so numerous here, that day light is almost indispen- 
sable to a safe passage. It was a perfect May morning, 
with the finest softest splendor of an Indian summer, 
so that we had every inducement, and every oppor- 
tunity to observe the various interesting objects that 
occurred. By this time we had become famihar^ 
and acquainted v;ith several of our fellow passeu- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC 207 

^ers, among whom, were Englisb military and na- 
val men, Quebec merchants, and a Roman Catholic 
Ecclesiastic. The latter came on board at the 
Three Rivers, and appeared a mild and amiable 
man. From our other companions, to whom we 
made known our country, and our views in travel- 
ling, we received every desired information, and 
the most obhging civilities. The military gentle- 
men particularly, were very courteous, and, as they 
were not only acquainted with Canada, but had seen 
much of other countries, and of foreign military ad- 
ventures, they were very interesting and instruc- 
tive. One of them had witnessed in person, some 
of Wellington's victories, and another, a man of 
most original and attractive character, and appa- 
rently of warm piety, had been not less occupied, in 
the East-Indies, in promoting schemes of benevo- 
lence, than in the pursuits of arms. Having been 
warned that Quebec would burst upon us, all of a 
sudden, and that we were drawing near to it, 
our eyes now gazed in no other direction, and out 
thoughts became entirely fixed upon that object 

APPROACH TO QUEBEC. 

Oct. 6. — This seat of ancient dominion- — now 
hoary with the lapse of more than two centuries — 
formerly the seat of a French empire in the west — 
lost and won by the blood of gallant armies, and 
of illustrious commaaders— throned on a rock, and 



308 TOUR BETWEEN H XRTFORn t \ .^ v^^ -KUrC. 

defended by all the proud defiaiioe of war — who 
could approach such a city without emotion? — Who 
ill America has not lonsred to cast his eves on the 
water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec I 

On approaching this city, about the middle of 
the day, we enjoyed the most propitious circum- 
stances of light and weather. 

From Cape Rouge, on our left, (seven miles 
above Quebec,) there is an uninterrupted range of 
high ground, rising even into hills and precipices. 
Cape Rouge is so called, from its rod colour — the 
precipitous bank being stained, probably, by oxid of 
iron, so as to give it, for miles, a reddish hue. 

The land grew higher and higher ; we passed 
the mouth of the Chaudiere river, six miles from 
Quebec, on our right, where a number of ships 
were waiting to take in timber, and we watched eve- 
ry moment, for the appearance of the great fortress 
of the north, while one of our military acquaintances 
pointed out to us the various interesting objects, as 
we came up with them in succession. At lengili we 
descried the towers of Quebec, standing on a rock 
of three hundred and forty feet in height, measured 
from the river. 

I have already remarked that the banks (espe- 
cially the north one) are for miles above the city, 
very precipitous, and they grow more so the nearer 
we approach. About two miles from Quebec we 
were shewn Sillery river and cove, and within one 
mile, or a mile and a half of tlie city, Wolfe's cove, 



TOIH BETWEEN HARTFORD AND CiUEBEC. ^Od 

now filled witli lumber and ships. This name has 
been derived, from the fiict, that here General 
Wolfe, under cover of night, landed his army, un- 
perceived by the French, and clambering up the 
precipice, gained the heights of Abraham. 

Three round towers of stone, mounted with can- 
non and standing on these heights, in advance of the 
other works of Quebec, are the first objects that 
strike the eye ; then the high walls of stone, cover- 
ed with heavy artillery, and which, as we come 
nearer to the city, we perceive to extend ail along, 
upon the verge of the precipice, of naked 
rock, of more than three hundred feet in height, 
which divides the lower from the upper town. On 
our right, was the ground on the south eastern 
side of the river, called point Levi. This also is a 
precipice of rock, but rather less elevated than 
Cape Diamond, on which the citadel of Quebec is 
built. Point Levi is now covered with brilliant 
white houses. Li the year 1759, General Monck- 
ton, by order of General Wolfe, erected his batteries' 
ihere, to bombard Quebec. 

rniNT NO. 5. 

This sketch, taken by Mr. W , from the 

>tcam boat, was commenced, about three or four 
miles above the city, and when we were passing 
every moment, rapidly along. It was unavoidably 
subjected to the disadvantage of constant change 
' of position : but, as it fortunately happened, tliis cir- 



210 TOm BETWEEN HARTFORB AND QUEBEC. 

ciimstance rather augmented the distinctness, tbar> 
shored the relative position of the principal objects. 

On the right, is exhibited part of tlie promontory 
of Point Levi, witli a ghmpse of a few of the hous- 
es and ships at its foot. In the remote view, down 
the river, are seen some of the highlands, beyond 
the falls of Montmorenci, on tlie left bank of the 
river, and at the distance of from ten to fifteen miles. 
Immediately before the obser\-er, is the smooth ex- 
panse of the river, with some of the numerous ships 
and boats that adorn its surface. 

On the left, and nearest at hand, a beautiful 
€opse of wood, with some buildings at its feet, just 
intercepts the view of Wolfe's cove, which lies be- 
tween this strove and the hi?h bank on which stands 
the nearest round tower ; only the opening of tlie 
cove is seen. Then come the heights, on which 
are the plains of Abraham, and upon them tlie Mar- 
lello towers, two of which only are from this posi- 
tion visible ; the view of two others is cut off by the 
intervening heights. Further on, appears Cape 
Diamond, composed of almost perpendicular pre- 
cipices of naked rock, tliree hundred and tbrty- 
five feet in tlie greatest height. The walls and 
towers of massy stone, pierced and cut down for 
embrasures, and crowned with the flag staff and 
colours tliat appear on this Cape, constitute the 
Citadel of Quebec. Immediately at the foot of 
this precipice, is the commencement ,^' the lower 
town, which is coHtinued around tlie toot of the 




fm 



i^^ 




YGUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 211 

rock ; only a very small part of it, and no portion 
of the houses of the upper town is visible from this 
point of view. 

* * * * * * * 

Arrived in the bay of Quebec, we found it 
swarming with ships, and presenting every appear- 
ance of a great seat of commerce. The bay is a 
beautiful piece of water, looking like a perfect 
lake, with most nobly formed swelling shores.— 
It is bounded by the ground just mentioned — 
by the Isle of Orleans, four miles down the river, 
and by a delightful country, on the north and 
north east, intersected by the Montmorenci and 
St. Charles' rivers, which fall into the bay ; the 
ground slopes v/ith charming declivity to the w^ater^ 
around which it sweeps gracefully like a bow, and 
presents in a long circuit, so many snow white 
cottages — handsome country houses, and fine popu- 
lous villages, that it seems for leagues, almost one 
continued street. The land is finely cultivated, 
and even now, is covered with the deepest verdure 
and sprinkled with dandelions in full bloom. Back 
of this fine amphitheatre of rural beauty, ranges of 
mountains, stretch their shaggy summits and limit 
the view. The harbour is one of the grandest im- 
1 aginable, and the whole scene resembles extremely 
the pictures of the bay of Naples, to which it is said 
by competent judges, to bear a strong resemblance. 



2VZ TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

We had scarcely time to admire this fine scene, be- 
fore we were moored at the dock in the lower town, 
in the midst of all the din of a crowded port. — 
While we were waiting for the necessary arrange- 
ments to land, we had a few moments to contem- 
plate the new scene before iis. Contiguous, was 
the lower town, skirting the upper, and embracing 
the feet of its rocky precipices. It makes a circuit 
of, I should imagine, almost two miles, and is 
crowded in the most compact manner possible, on 
a narrow strip of land, between the precipices and 
the St. Lawrence. The houses are so far below 
tlie walls of the upper town, that a stone could be 
dropped into the chimnies of the nearest, and it 
would in most places fall two or three hundred feet 
in the air before it reached its object. 

One of the most striking objects before our eyes 
was the Castle of St. Louis — the residence of the 
Governor. It is a hundred and sixty-two feet 
long, forty-five broad, and three stories high. It 
stands (almost impending over the lower town) up- 
on the very verge of the giddy precipice of t^vo 
iiundred feet in height, and lofty pillars are built up 
from the rock below to support its gallery, which 
runs the whole length of the building. It is a plain 
yellow structure of stone, and now exhibits no ap- 
pearance of a Castle although it was a fortress un- 
der the French government. 

From the Castle an observer may look down per- 
pendicularly upon the houses of the lower town an(^ 



iOVR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 213 

e all the confusion, even to the motion of a dog ; 
all the offensive as well as agreeable objects of a 
crowded port — the grotesque assemblage of build- 
ings, peculiar (as is said) to an old French town ; 
he may hear the rumbling of carts and drays and 
the jargon of different languages, and he will inhale 
the smoke and gases from a crowd of chimnies, 
rising to the foot of the building on which he stands. 

On the right of the Castle, the massy walls ap- 
pear again, and the black artillery, pointing over 
the parapet, look like beasts of prey, crouching and 
ready to leap upon their victims. 

We soon landed, under the auspices of Captain 

, (our newly acquired military friend) who 

politely shewed us our lodgings, in St. John's street, 
had our baggage conveyed to them, by his own ser- 
vant, and called soon after to enquire for our wel- 
fare. 

PRINT NO. 6. 

This view was taken from the steam boat, while 
still other steam boats and vessels were between it 
and the wharf, and they are the nearest objects 
which we observe at the bottom of the picture.* — 
Then come the buildings in the most crowded and 
bustling psirt of the lower town, which may be con- 
sidered (v/ith a considerable omission of houses fur- 
ther to the left,) as a continuation of the commence- 

* The wall and arched passage, on the nearest part of the shore. 
] are not copied, but are from fancy. 

19 



214 TOUR BKTWKEN HARTVORl^ AND ^rCBt«. 

ment of the lower town, seen at the foot of Cape 
Diamond, in Print No. 5. 

In the present print we see, immediately before 
us, confused piles of houses and stores, built, in 
many instances, in the old French style, with sleep 
high roofs, having; two or more rows of dormant 
windows. 

On the highest poim of the extreme left, is Cape 
Diamond, with a part of the Citadel in view, crgwn- 
ed with the Hag and telegraph. On the right of 
these, are a few of the houses of the upper town, 
and almost immediately before us, the elevated 
Castle of St. Louis, witk its gallery, supported by 
high pillars of stone, springing fix)m the rocks below. 

Still further on the right, we observe other hous- 
es in the upper town, (only the nearest edge of 
which is however visible.) and on tlie exirerae right 
is a spire of one of the Catholic churches. 

ENTRANCE INTO QVEBEC. 

As we passed along the streets of the lower town, 
I could well have thought that we were in the Wap- 
ping of London. A swarming population, among 
whom sailors were conspicuous ; llie cheering 
heigho ! of the latter, working in the ships ; the va- 
rious merehandize, crowded into view, in front ol 
tlie shops and warehouses : the narrow compact 
streets, absolutely full of buildings : the ratding of 
i >-vjmoraMe carts and dray?, and all the jarcon of 



\ 2 




rOUR BETWEEN UAllTFORD AND QUEBEC. 215 

discordant voices and langua2;es, would scarcely 
permit us to believe that we were arrived in a ;t- 
mote corner of the civilized world. 

We did not feel so absolutely like strangers, as 
we should have done, without the countenance 
of the Captain. I have already mentioned, that n 
fortuitous acquaintance whh this gentleman, on 
board the steam boat, and an incidental disclo- 
sure to him of our views in visiting Canada, led to 
a good deal of mutual kindness, and on his part to 
offers of service. He is a Captain of the grena- 
diers ; is still a young man, and being open, frank, 
and friendly in his deportment, he won our confi- 
dence, and did not withhold his own. We learned, 
that he served in the Peninsular war, both under 
Sir John More, and under Wellington ; he was with 
the former when he fell, in the flight of the British 
army from Corunna, and with the latter at St. Se- 
bastian's, at the battle of Vittoria, and on various 
other distinguished occasions. 

His wife, a very fine young woman, who, with 
another lady, had come to the wharf to receive him, 
joined us, and with this pleasant little party, we en- 
tered Quebec. 

The first street of the lower town, along which 
we passed, came to an abrupt termination, the last 
house standing at the foot of the precipice, when, 
turning suddenly to the right, into a street, one of 
whose sides was overhung by the frowning rock, wo 
soon came to a foot passage of stairs, made of plank. 



216 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

very steep and high, nnd furnished with iron rail- 
ings ; tliis passage terminated in Mountain street, as 
it is called, from the steepness of the ascent. It is 
the only passage from this side into the upper town, 
and it was by no means an easy task to ascend it, 
even on a good foot pavement. 

In the mean time, we admired the strength and 
agility of the httle Canadian horses, which, with 
heavily loaded carts at their heels, perseveringly 
scramble up tliis arduous ascent, and with still 
greater care and firmness, sustain their ponderous 
vehicles when descending, and prevent them from 
hurrying themselves and their burdens, headlong, 
down llie steep. 

The Castle of St. Louis, (literally a castle in the 
air,) was now seen immediately above our heads, on 
the left, at the distance of two hu.ndred and fit\y feet. 
It is completely on the edge of the precipice, which 
overhangs the lower town, and from its dangerous 
pre-eminence, appears ready to participate in the 
destruction which it seems threatening to all below. 

We now passed the grand Prescot Gate, under 
ponderous arches of stone, of great thickness and 
weight, and entered the upper town. 

The impression of every thing was completely 
foreign from any thing that we see in the United 
States. Buildings of v.ood, and even of brick, are 
almost entirely unknown. Stone, either rough from 
the q'larry. or covered with wliite cement, or hewn 
Hccordins: to the ta-te and condition of the nroprie- 



TOUR BETWEEN UARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 217 

tor, is almost the only material for buildins; ; roofs, 
ill many instances, and generally on the better sort 
of buildings, giittcring with tin plate, with which 
they are neatly covered ; and turrets and steeples, 
pouring a flood of light from tlie same substance : 
these are among the first things that sLi'ikc the eyes 
of a stranger entering the city of Quebec. 

If from the United States, he sees a new popula- 
tion, and, to a great extent, a completely foreign 
people, with French faces and French costume ; 
the French language salutes his car, as the common 
tongue of the streets and shops ; in short, he per- 
ceives that even in the very capital, tliere is only a 
sprinkling of English population ; it is still a French 
city ; and the Cathedral, the extensive College of 
the Jesuits, now used for barracks, and most of the 
public buildings and private houses, are French. 
He sees troops mingled, here and there, with the 
citizens ; he perceives the British uniform, and the 
German in the British service, which remind him 
that tlie country has masters different from the mass 
of its population, and although the military are, ob- 
viously, not subjects of terror to the citizens, the 
first impression borders on melancholy, when wo 
see these memorials of an empire fallen, and of an 
empire risen in its stead. Sixty years have done 
little towards obliterating the Gallic features of the 
country, and with a pleasure very rarely experien- 
ced, in similar cases, we involuntarily revolve in our 

19* 



218 TOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEHEC. 

minds, here is a country conquered, although not 
oppressed. 

Trumpets, and bugles, and French horns now 
§tartie us with a sudden burst of martial music, and 
we cnn hardly believe that we are not arrived in a 
fortified town of Europe. 

***** -x- ^e 

It was a fine morning, (October 7th,) and, as we 
were about to avail ourselves of this favourable 
weather, to visit some parts of the environs of Que- 
t»ec, I will first describe our carriage, which was 

THE CANADIAN CALASH. 

This is not unlike an American chaise or gig, but 
is built much stouter, and with or without a top; the 
horse is much farther from the body of the carriage, 
and this allows room for a driver, whose seat rests 
on ihe front or foot board, of that part of the vehi- 
cle in which we ride ; this foot board, after sloping, 
in the usual manner, then rises perpendicularly, to 
such a height as to sustain the seat; high sides are 
also furnished to the part where the feet rest in a 
common chaise, and thus children and ba2;2;a2;e are 
secured from falling out. The calash carries two 
grown persons on the seat within, besides the driver, 
who is often a man ; his seat, and the board which sup- 
ports it fall, by means of hinges, when the passengers 
are to get in, and tlie board and seat are then hook- 



TOUR BETWEEN HAKTFORD AKD QUEBEC. 219 

ed up again to their place, when the driver mounts. 
In such a niacliinc, which is the most common vehi- 
cle of the country, and is sometimes, as in the pre- 
sent instance, made clumsily handsome, we made 
our first excursion from Quehec. 

Our driver was Michael Gouvan, a very intelli- 
gent and oblis^ing youna; man, a French Canadian, 
who spoke both English and French; and his horse, 
(an iron grey.) was one of that small, but hardy 
breed, which being, in this country, left in their 
natural state, are extremely stout aud courageous, 
and carry the heavy calash, and three men, appa- 
rently with more ease, than our horses draw our 
chaises, and two grown persons. 

EXCURSION TO BE AUPORT AND MONTMORENCT. 

I have already observed that it was a very fine 
morning ; the temperature was mild, and the skies 
bright, with a balmy softness in the atmosphere, ac- 
companied by a slight haziness ; it is exactly like 
our Indian summer, and indeed, they here call this 
kind of weather by the same name ; we could not 
have had a more acceptable time for our little jour- 
ney of nihe miles, to the fails of Montmorenci. 

We passed out at the gate St. John, on the north 
western side of the town ; it stands at the head of 
the street of the same name, and leads to a very ex- 
tensive and populous suburb, situated entirely with- 
out the walls. This suburb exhibits many new and 



220 TOUR BBTWEKN IlARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

good buildings, and appears modern. We soon 
reached the beautiful meadows, north-east of Que- 
bec, through which flows the river Charles. On 
our left, was an extensive nunnery, quite by itself, 
in the fields; it appears to be the same described by 
Charlevoix, nearly a century ago, under the name 
of the hospital. 

For four miles, we passed through some of the 
most beautiful meadows w4iich I have ever seen ; they 
were neatly divided into small enclosures, by stakes 
driven into the ground, and secured at top, by a 
rail, fastened with withes; the meadows were cover- 
ed with thriv^ing cattle : they were still rich in deep 
verdure, and would have adorned the banks of the 
Connecticut, or of the Thames. The road through 
them, was much cut up by wheels, as this is a great 
thorough-fare into Quebec, and the land is natural- 
ly moist and rich. Houses were scattered here and 
there, upon the meadows, and when we began to 
ascend the rising ground, we entered the extensive 
village of Beauport. 

This village, consisting of sixty or seventy hous- 
es, is built principally on one street, of four or 
five miles in length, and extends quite to the river 
Montmorenci ; it is one of those, which I mention- 
ed as making so brilliant an appearance from the 
bay of Quebec. The farms and garden grounds of 
this village are '* all in a flourishing state, and the 
orchards, and occasional clumps of trees, combine 
to render it one of the pJeasantest roads in the envi- 



TOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 221 

i^ons of Quebec. This village is the residence of 
raany families of respectability."* 

The houses are generally of stone, covered with 
a cennent, and white washed, roof and all ; this gives 
them a very neat appearance, and makes them look 
very brilliant, even at a considerable distance ; com- 
monly they are of one story, sometimes of two, and 
inside they appeared very comfortable. The win- 
dows, as is generally the fact in the French houses, 
are divided, up and down, in the middle, and swing, 
like doors on hinges. 

There is in this village, a large and showy church, 
with three steeples, and, on entering it, we found 
solitary individuals at their private devotions, cross- 
ing themselves with holy water, and silently moving 
their lips. This church contained a number of 
pictures, and they were ornamenting its ceiling with 
golden roses. 

Our driver left his calash, went into the church, 
fell on his knees, and said his prayers with much 
apparent seriousness. 

The Montmorenci is a small, but rapid river, 
rolling tumultuously, over a very rocky bottom, and 
just above the falls, is considerably smaller than the 
Housatonuck, at the falls of Salisbury, in Connecti- 
cut. 

Leaving our calash and driver on the high hill, 
which forms the western bank of the river, we cross- 
ed a bridge, and passed down the eastern side of 
the Montmorenci, which is also very high ground, 

*Boucbette. 



2^ TOUR BETtTEKK HAKTFOHA AND qCJLBEC. 

and, as we approach the St. Lawrence, it rises, so 
as to be even siiil liisiher than the opposite sliore. 
From this ele\~ation, the beautiful island of Orleans, 
which is twenty railes lonsE, and (ive wide., was in 
fyil view before us. h is well cultivated, contains 
about four Uiousand^ inhabits uis, and, next to Mool^ 
real, is ilie most important island in the riven On 
llie side coaticuous to where we were, it slopes to 
the water's eds^e, and terminates in a handsome 
beach of sand. A similar beach, corresfv>nds to 
ilj on the main: the ship ch;\nnel is on tho otIut 
side of the island. 

As we passed along ihrous^h the fields, we fotmd 
a man and boy ploughing. The oxen wer>? yoked* 
not as with us, by the shoulders aud neck, but hjf 
ikt Aonu, A kind of yoke lay upon their necks, 
and was fastened, by leather stn\ps, to the boms ^ 
but no bow, or other contrivani'^% |x^ssed around the 
neck ; thus the oxen draw entirely by their horns ; 
and 1 am told that the French farmers cannot be in- 
duced to adopt our method, although it is obvious 
that the animal is thus sadiy embarrassed, and can 
exert very iiitle power. I saw, however, one yoke 
in ainotlier field, haruess.ed in our way. 

Gr.OI.OOT 

There is very iuiie variety m the Geology be- 
tween Quebec and Montmorenci. AlW Uavin^ 



"le city, die first objects that strike the eye, whore 
the screen slopes of the hills have boon exeau^tod, 
in quarryinaj, are numerous black rocks, very resju- 
liirly straiitied, and lookiuii: almost like Ecreat beds of 
oal. Those rocks, w hich prevail throu£;b the vil- 
ia«:e of Beauport, are black fetid limestone, in stra- 
ta nearly horizontal, and presenting in the section 
of the hills, a remarkivble rcjrularity, almost archi- 
octural. The strata, being; divided by seams, both 
\ony.ontal and vertical, look as if they had been laid 
up by the skill of a mason. The houses in Beau- 
port, are generally built of liiis stone, and the peo« 
L>le burn it into lime at their very doors. Its jjreat 
regularity, and the ease with which it divides, must 
make it an excellent building stone ; while the com- 
bustible substance w hich it contains, will also aid, 
very materially, in burning it into quick lime. — 
Those strata appear to be secondary hme stone. 

The strata, over which the Afontmorenci falls, 
seem to be, (for I could not get near enough to be 
quite certain.) of the same description. I am fa- 
voured by Dr. John I. Bigsby, of the Medical staff 
of the British army in Canada, with the following 
facts, as to iJie ** succession of the strata a few^ yards 
;^bove the bridge, at the falls of Montmorenci, on 
the west side of the river :" 

" The lowest nsible rocks, rising six or eight feet 
from the bed of the river, are dough shaped mounds 
of granite, vertical, with a south-west direction, with 
many irregular quarti veiiis, h«lf a foot tliick. On 



224 TOUR BETWEEN MAKTFOR£) AND QUEBEC. 

it, lies a perfectly horizontal sand stone, so coarse 
as to resemble conglomerate, (I suspect tliis sand 
stone is a coarse grey wacke.) It is four feet tliick, 
and weathered red and white. Upon this rests light 
nair brown, highly crystalline lime-stone, very fetid, 
full of shells, vegetable filaments, massive blende, 
and a mineral, like brown spar. This gradually be- 
comes dull, less crystalline, and at length, at the 
top of the bank, is nearly a common blue lime 
(stone,) with a conchoidal fracture, and still here 
und there containing small crystals of carbonates. 
The whole height here, is perhaps, forty feet." 

As we walked along upon the eastern bank of the 
Montmorenci, and approached the St. Lawrence, 
we found ourselves on the verge of a precipice, of 
three hundred feet in height : this terminates at the 
St. Lawrence, or very near it, in an almost perpen- 
dicular promontory, down which, with some diffi- 
culty, we wound our way to the bed of the great 
river. The strata of rock here, run parallel to the 
St .Lawrence, and at right angles to the Montmo- 
renci ; as these strata are very soft, and easily de- 
composed and disintegrated, the Montmorenci, 
which rolls its rapid and turbulent waters across 
tliem, has evidently, by long continued attrition, 
worn them away, so that in the bed of this small 
river, at the falls, these rocks have receded about 
one sixth of a mile from the St. Lawrence. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBKC. S25 
THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCL 

The destructive action of the river itself, u])oti 
the rocks which form its hed, and its banks, has 
produced in the long course of time, a deep bay, or 
indentation, shaped nearly like a parabola, or a 
horse-shoe magnet ; it recedes from two hundred 
and eighty, to three hundred yards,'^ from the St. 
Lawrence, and its almost perpendicular banks, are 
in different places, from two to three hundred feet 
liigh ; they are composed apparently, of fetid lime 
stone, very much decomposed, which, on the eastern 
side, resembles extremely a tine grained slate, or 
sand stone. The crumbled and broken parts, be- 
come fetid by friction or percussion. At the upper 
end of this bay, the Montmorenci, after a gentle pre- 
vious dechvity, which greatly increases its veloci- 
ty, takes its stupendous leap of tw^o hundred and 

fortyf feet, into a chasm among the rocks, where it 
boils and foams in a natural rocky basin, from which, 
after its force is in some measure exliausted in its 
own whirlpools and eddies, it flows away in a gentle 
stream, towards the St. Lawrence. The fall is near- 

* Houcliette. 
f It is astonisliiiig (hat Cliarlevoix states (he fall of Montmo- 
rctici as beitig thirly fetU wide, and only forty high. I cannot hut 
think (hat there mus( have been a typographical ciinr in (he 
omission of two hundred, before forty, especially, as C'harlevoix. 
states the lieisi;ht of the Niagara falls very nearly us (hoy are now 
estimated. It is not probable that a century has made much dif- 
ference with either. 

20 



226 TOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

]y perpendicular, and appears not to deviate more 
than three or four degrees from it. This deviation 
is caused by the ledges of rock below, and is just 
sufficient to break the water completely into foam 
and spray. The width of the stream, at the mo- 
ment of its fall, is apparently, fifty or sixty feet ; it 
may be seventy when the river is swollen by rains, 
or by the melted snows. 

The effect on the beholder is most delightful. 
The river, at some distance, seems suspended in 
the air, in a sheet of billowy foam,* and, contrast- 
ed, as it is, with the black frowning abyss, into which 
it falls, it is an object of the highest interest. 

As we approached nearer to its foot, the impres- 
sions of grandeur and sublimity were, in the most 
perfect manner imaginable, blended W'ith those of 
extreme beauty. 

This river is of so considerable magnitude, that, 
precipitated as it is, from this amazing height, the 
thundering noise, and mighty rush of waters, and 
the never ceasing wind and rain, produced by the 
fall, powerfully arrest the attention : the spectator 
stands in profound awe, mingled whh delight, espe- 
cially when he contrasts the magnitude of the fall, 
with that of a villa, on the edge of the dark preci- 
pices of frowning rock, which form the western 
bank, and with the casual spectators, looking down 

* It has been compared to a white ribbon, suspended in the air , 
this cor!)parison does justice to the delicacy, but not to the gi-pn 
.tlenr ot this cataract. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 227 

from the same elevation. But, these impressions 
are not sufficient to overpower the dehcate beauty 
of this cataract. The sheet of foam, which break? 
over the ridge, is more and more divided, as it i? 
dashed against the successive layers of rock, which 
it almost completely veils from view ; the spray be- 
comes very dehcate and abundant, from top to bot- 
tom, hanging over, and revolving around the torrent, 
till it becomes Hghter and more evanescent, than 
the whitest fleecy clouds of summer, than the finest 
attenuated web, than the lightest gossamer, consti- 
tuting the most airy and sumptuous drapery, that 
can be imagined. Yet, like the drapery of some of 
the Grecian statues, which, while it veils, exhibits 
more forcibly, the form beneath, this does not hide, 
but exalts the effect produced by this noble cat- 
aract. 

The rain-bow we saw in great perfection ; bow 
within bow, and (what I never saw elsewhere, so 
perfectly,) as I advanced into the spray, the bow 
became complete, myself being a part of its circum- 
ference, and its transcendent glories moving with 
every change of position. This beautiful and splen- 
did sight was to be enjoyed only by advancing quite 
into the shower of spray ;* as if, in the language 
of ancient poetry, and fable, the genii of the place, 
pleased with the beholder's near approach to 
the seat bt their empire, decked the devotee with the 

* Which was vory copious, anH, (if not averted by an umbrti 
la,) would soon wel the observer through his clothes. 



223 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 

appropriate robes of the cataract, the vestal veil of 
fleecy spray, and the heavenly splendors of the bow. 

The falls of Montmorenci have been often de- 
scribed, and we had obtained tolerably definite and 
correct ideas of them, but their entire impression 
on us was beyond our expectations. 

Those who visit this place in the winter, see one 
fine feature added to the scene, although they may 
lose some others. The spray freezes, and forms a 
regular cone, of sometimes one hundred feet in 
height, and standing immediately at the bottom of 
the cataract. It is even said, that some are har- 
dy enough to clamber up this icy tower. Captain 
— - informs us that he has performed this giddy 

f«8.t. 

PRINT, NO. 7. 

In this view, on the right, are seen the rocky stra- 
ta, rising from the St. Lawrence, and presenting 
their broken edges; higher up, the precipice is cov- 
ered with sand, gravel, and ruins of the rocks, and 
with some poor verdure, and stinted shrubs. This 
high bank, here terminating abruptly on the great 
river, is continued around to the fall, forming the 
right side of the great curve, in the center of which, 
appears the cataract. In the picture, the spray is 
but partially represented, and is less copious, and 
rises to a less considerable height, than in the scene 
itself. Just where the river commences hs leap, 
some rocks are seen, breaking the current. 



ii 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 229 

Immediately in front, nearest to the observer, and 
just where some spectators are placed, the fall is 
seen with great advantage ; perhaps, it is more 
beautiful there, than any where else ; the views of 
it are, however, very fine at every position, as we 
advance towards it, (although the impending banks 
of ruinous and decomposed rock, look rather alarm- 
ing, as we pass along.) At the foot of the cataract, 
on the right, we perceive a projection of rock, half 
veiling the bottom of the fall from view ; this rock 
is constantly wet and slippery, with the spray, and 
the observer scrambles up its sides, with some diffi- 
culty, but, when arrived there, he is fully compen- 
sated by the grandeur of the scene ; if he advance 
over the other declivity of the rock, the bow attends 
his every step, and, at some places, two or three 
concentric bows are seen. If w^ilhng to be thor- 
oughly wet, and possessed of a little of the spirit of 
adventure, he may, by persevering in his advances 
even gain a peep behind the cataract. On the left, 
is seen the other side of the bay ; it is composed of 
perpendicular ledges of black stratified rock ; (I 
presume it is the same fetid hme stone, which con- 
stitutes the basis of Beauport,) and, on its summit, 
a little removed from the edge, is a handsome villa. 
Almost exactly on the edge, and resembhng a low 
fence, is seen an aqueduct, which diverts a part of 
the river, just above the fall, and conducts it to a 
saw mill at the bottom of the bank. The tranquil 
basin, below the fall, at low water, presents to view, 
20* 



230 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

portions of the rocky strata, which form its bed, and 
it is then fordable, and also for some time, during 
t-he latter part of the ebb, and the beginning of the 
flow of the tide. 

******* 



SAW MILLS AND LUMBER. 

Just below the falls, on the right bank of the 
Montmorenci, at its confluence with the St. Law- 
rence, is the great establishment of Mr. Patterson, 
for sawing lumber. The mills, which are probably 
as extensive as any in the world, are fed by a 
s^tream, directed (as already mentioned in the de- 
scription of print 7,) from the Montmorenci, just 
ahove the falls. It is conducted along, on the high 
bank, in a large artificial channel, of plank and tim- 
ber, till, rushing down the inclined plane, formed by 
the great natural descent of the hill, it acquires a 
prodigious velocity, and, falling upon the water 
wheels, in the mill, at the bottom of the bank, it 
imparts an impulse, sufficiently powerful, to turn the 
machinery of a vast establishment, and performs a 
very great amount of labour. Nor does it injure 
the cataract, as Lieutenant Hall, in his travels, sup- 
poses it would ; for, it is no more missed from the 
stream of the Montmorenci, than a pebble would 
be from its banks. 

Contiguous to these mills, is a vast deposit of 
lumber ; much of it is afloat, and is guarded from 






r 

S2 



I fs 







TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QTEBEC. 231 

floatins; quite away, by wharves and pillars, and by 
very extensive artificial dams, running out a great 
way into tlie St. Lawrence, and formins; a larse ba- 
sin. I cannot say with confidence, how manv acres 
it appeared to cover ; ray elevation on the contiguous 
bank, was so great, that I might be much deceived ; 
but it served, togetlier with tiie deposits which we 
had seen at the Chaudiere, at Sillery, in Wolfe's 
cove, and other places, to give us a strong impres- 
sion ot'the magnitude of the Canadian lumber trade; 
it is, in fact, die principal business of the country ; 
and the ships waiting to receive it, are very nume- 
rous. A good deal of tliis lumber, as we were as- 
sured, comes from Vermont, and is rafted down 
Lake Champlaiu, and through the rivers Sore! and 
St. Lawrence. 

To us, who had never seen any thing to compare 
witli the exhibition of lumber, on the waters around 
Quebec, this sight, and the other similar ones, ap- 
peared very remarkable. The number, and size of 
the ships, also, tliat are waiting to receive it, far ex- 
ceeded our expectations, and evinced, that, if Great 
Britain cannot supply herself with lumber, on good 
terms, from any other source, this colony must, for 
this reason alooe. be very important to her ; and, 
indeed, it has obviously this great advantage, as a 
source of supply, tliat it is, in a great measure, in- 
dependent of the contingency of war. 

As an article of trade, however. I am aware that 
lumber, from its great bulk, and low value, makes ^ 



232 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

much greater show, than a commerce in many com- 
modities, which, in a much more snug way, may 
imply a vastly greater amount of capital, and of 
profits. 

The lumber rnfts on the St. Lawrence, well de- 
serve to be mentioned among the curiosities of the 
river. We found some of them around us in the 
morning, as we were coming down to Quebec, and 
were amused with the view of these anomalous 
floating communities. Some of them occupied 
thousands of square feet on the water, and exhibit- 
ed an active, grotesque population, busy in steering 
these ponderous misshapen piles, down the current 
of the river ; they erect huts upon them, and con- 
trive to concentrate upon the rafls, the few and 
coarse accommodations, which their frugal habits, 
and their tardy inland voyage may demand. 

We did not expect to find oppressively hot weath- 
er in Canada, so late as the 7th of October, but, in 
clambering the precipices about the falls of Mont- 
morenci, we experienced a degree of heat, like that 
of the middle of July. 

VIEW OF QUEBEC, AND OF ITS ENVIRONS, FROM 
BEAUFORT. 

From the river Montmorenci, the ground gently 
descends towards the St. Lawrence, and towards 
Quebec, but, as the distance is considerable, the el- 
evation is sufficient to afford a good view of that 
"citv . 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND HULBEC. 233 

Approaching it by water, from Montreal, we liave 
only a glimpse of the upper town, but, from the 
Beauport side, we see it perfectly. Most of the 
upper town is built upon a side hill, sloping rapidly 
to the north and east, and the view from Beauport, 
gives the idea of a fine city, of considerable magni- 
tude. 

The roofs and spires, covered with tin, glittered 
to-day, in the bright meridian sun. The towers and 
turretted walls, completely encircle the upper town, 
although they exclude the lower ; and the suburbs, 
now become almost as extensive and handsome, as 
the city itself, are also in full view, with a conside- 
rable part of the lower town, and most of the ships 
in the bay and river. 

The opposite shores of the island of Orleans, and 
of Point Levi, with the numerous farm houses and 
villages, that are conspicuous all around, and thi^ 
luxuriant meadows, intersected by the Charles, ad- 
ded to the beauty of the prospect. 

Indeed, Quebec and its environs, present as mag- 
nificent scenery as can w^ell be imagined. Towers 
and spires — walls and rocks — cascades and precipi- 
ces — swelling hills, and luxuriant vallies, and woody 
mountains — beautiful villages, and numberless sol- 
itary villas, and white cottages — with grand rivers, 
and crowding fleets, are all united to delight the 
spectator. Such scenes would be esteemed very 
fine in any country. 



234 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^UEBE.Cv' 
PRINT, NO. 8. 

This print, although the scene is principally the 
same, does not exhibit exactly the view, from Beau- 
port, which was last described. The observer is 
not in Beauport, but is standing on the eastern side 
of the Montmorenci, on the bank, which is exhibit- 
ed on the right of print 7. Immediately before him, 
is the saw mill of Mr. Patterson, with floating lum- 
ber, and a ship, waiting to receive it. On the right, 
is the high promontory, situated on the western side 
of the Montmorenci, and constituting the counter 
part to that exhibited in the last print ; the ship, 
and saw mill, and two adventurers, on the top of 
the precipice, give some idea of its height. From 
the mill, we see the aqueduct passing along the 
hill ; after it begins to descend from the heights, it 
Is covered on the top, with thick plank, strongly 
bound by timber, to prevent the water from over- 
flowing, for the stream is so copious, as completely 
to fill this hollow box, through which the water is 
hurried with a frightful velocity. On the left, is 
Point Levi, opposite to Quebec, and distant from 
the observer five or six miles ; at the. foot of this 
promontry,we see a little settlement, a port in minia- 
ture, and numbers of ships contiguous. In the ex- 
treme distance, are the hills about the mouth of the 
Chaudiere river, and beyond it ; they are from 
twelve to fifteen, and even twenty miles distant, and 
are situated on the right l>ank of the St. Lawrence. 



u 




u 



TOtJIl BETWEEN HARtFORD AND Q,UEBEC 235 

In the middle of the view, on the right, is the city 
of Quebec, exhibiting a part, both of the upper and 
lower tow^n. This view may be considered as be- 
ing, in this respect, a continuation of that, exhibited 
in prints No. 5 and 6 5 and, as beginning nearJy 
where the latter leaves off. We see the upper town, 
with its crowded show of houses and spires, and with 
the flag and telegraph on Cape Diamond, surround- 
, ed by its military wall, and distant four or five miles ; 
1 the wall passes along upon the very edge of the 
I precipice of naked black rock. Immediately at the 
j foot of this precipice, is a continuation of the lower 
I town, with its wharves, ships, and ware houses, and, 
on its extreme right, we see the steep ascent to the 
I palace gate. The promontory, on the right of the 
j Montmorenci, intercepts the view of Beauport, and 
I of the beautiful slope from it to the St. Lawrence ; 
^ nor do w^e see the declivity of the city of Quebec 
to the north and west; from the highest parts that 
I are in view, it declines very rapidly in that direc- 
I tion, towards the Charles river; and this partis ex- 
tensive and populous, and includes the fine sub- 
urb of St. Johns. 
I In order to understand this print, and No. 5 and 
6, it must be remembered, that the front of the 
town, towards the St. Lawrence, is circular, pre- 
senting its convex side to the rivers, in the form of 
the exterior curve of an amphitheatre. 

* -^f * * * * * 



236 TOUU BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 
BATTLE OF MOiNTMORENCI. 

The roar of the cataract — the beauty of the re- 
volving spray, and the splendors of the rainbow, 
have not always been observed, in tranquility, at 
Montmorenci ; for the flash, and the smoke, and 
the thunder of artillery, have, at a former period, 
overwhelmed these milder beauties, and the banks, 
and the waters of these rivers have, at their conflu- 
ence, been stained with blood. 

On the 27th of June, 1759, General Wolfe, ar- 
riving in the St. Lawrence, with an armament equip- 
ped expressly for the reduction of Quebec, estab- 
lished his army upon the island of Orleans, while 
Admiral Saunders, with the fleet, occupied the chan- 
nels and the bay of Quebec. On the 29th, General 
Wolfe detached General Monckton, with four bat- 
talions, to drive the French force from Point Levi, 
the promontory opposite to Quebec, and to occupy 
that place, a service which was successfully execu- 
ted. The French soon after, passed over from Que- 
bec, with one thousand six hundred men, to attack 
General Monckton, but fell into confusion — fired on 
one another, and retreated back to the city.* Gen- 
eral Monckton severely cannonaded and bombard- 
ed the city, from this point, and although his fire 
was quite destructive to the lower town, and very 
injurious to the buildings in the upper it made no 
serious impression on its defences, and left the place 

* General Wolfe's dis^iatch to hi* government. 



TO&R BETWEEN HARTFORD AND 

nearly as tenable as ever. Indeed, it is o 
from mere inspection, that were the works of Que- 
bec, on the side next to Point Levi, all destroyed, 
rftill it would be of little avail, towards an escalade 
of the precipices of naked rock, in some places more 
than three hundred feet high, on which the walls and 
towers are built. For many miles above the city, 
the left bank of the river is a mere precipice, or ad- 
mits of easy and effectual defence, by a small num- 
ber of troops, judiciously stationed. The only ac- 
cessible ground, in the immediate vicinity of Que- 
bec, is the graceful declivity between the river St. 
Charles, which washes the north eastern part of the 
city, and the Montmorenci. This is the fine natur- 
al slope, tliat appeared so bcauliful as we entered 
the bay of Quebec, and stretches four or five miles, 
along the river, from Beauport to the St. Lawrence. 
Near Montmorenci, this declivity becomes very 
steep and of arduous ascent. This ground v;ould, 
of course, invite a landing, but the Marquis de Mont- 
calm, had occupied every part of it, with an en- 
trenched camp ; batteries of cannon were placed at 
every accessible point, and his rear was defended 
by a thick forest. 

Still, General Wolfe, seeing no prospect of re- 
ducing Quebec, except by first defeating the army 
by which it was defended, and perceiving no possi- 
bility of attacking that army, except by occupying 
this ground, took measures to effect that object. 

24. 



rWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

the night of July 9th, he passed his army 
over the north channel, between the island of Or- 
leans and the promontory represented on the right 
of print 7. He wished next to pass the Montmoren- 
ci above the falls, and to attack the enemy in the jj 
rear, but, there was no ford nearer than three miles 
up the river, and the opposite bank was entrenched, 
and so steep and v/oody, that it could not be suc- 
cessfully attacked. 

He had occupied with cannon, the precipice be- 
low the fails, which forms the right of the curve, in 
print 7 ; it is higher than the opposite side, to which 
the left of the French camp extended, and the vigor 
of the fire from this battery, under the direction of 
General Townsend, prevented the French from 
erecting a corresponding battery, near the place 
where the aqueduct is represented, in the left of the 
picture ; this battery was therefore unopposed, and 
considerably annoyed the French camp, 

We saw the remains of the English battery ; they 
are still distinctly visible on the heights, north-east 
of the bay, below the falls ; the bank has now crum- 
bled so much, that the entrenchments are close to 
the edge of the precipice, and the observer, on ac- 
count of the frail support below, should be on his 
guard in approaching the brink. 

It has been already mentioned, in the description 
of print 7, that the bay below the falls is fordable, 
ocar, and at low water. General Wolfe determined 
= nvailhimself of this facility, and to attack the en- 



TOUR BETWEEN HAHTFOKD AMJ ^ULBLC. 23*j 

emy in front, in their entrenchments ; to enfilade 
and batter these, a great quantity of artillery was 
placed upon the eminence, and was served with 
much effect. 

It became necessary to pass the ford on the rocks j 
and then to go around the point by the 'saw mill ; 
which is exhibited on the right of print 8. The 
promontory there represented, immediately above 
the saw mill, cuts off, in a great measure, the view 
of the ground occupied by the French camp, and 
also the view of the beach where the English troops 
were to form. 

It w^as on the morning of the 31st of July, that 
the grenadiers, in the boats of the squadron, sup- 
ported by a part of General Monckton's corps from 
Point Levi, who were also in boats, proceeded for 
the shore ; they were thrown into some confusion, 
and detained a good while by accidentally ground- 
ing, so that it was late in the afternoon, before they 
effected a landing on the beach, above the saw mill. 
The enemy had precipitately abandoned a redoubt, 
close to the shore; the corps of Generals Townsend 
and Murray) vrhich were to ford the Montmorenci, 
and come round to the beach, to unite in the attack, 
were on their way, and in good order, but the corps 
of General Monckton were not yet landed. 

The grenadiers, consisting of thirteen companies, 
aided by two hundred royal Americans, had orders 
to form in four distinct bodies, and to proceed to 
the attack as soon as they could be supported by 



240 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,lTEBEC. 

Monckton's corps, and aided by the troops from the 
ford of the Montrnorenci. 

But, before Monckton's corps were landed, and 
before the other troops were at hand to support 
ihem, and, without waiting to form, they rushed im- 
petuously forward, running towards the " enemy's 
entrenchments, in the utmost disorder and confu- 
sion."* Their courage proved their ruin ; they 
were cut down in great numbers, by a very hot and 
well directed fire, and, being unable to form, they 
retreated behind the redoubt, which the French had 
abandoned, leaving their dead to be plundered, and 
numbers of their wounded to be murdered and 
scalped by the savages. General Wolfe now drewofF 
his grenadiers, to form them behind General Monck- 
ton's corps, which was by this time drawn up on the 
beach in " extreme good order." But it was now 
near night — a sudden thunder storm came on — the tide 
Ibegan to make — and the attack was abandoned, after 
the loss of between five and six hundred brave men, 
of the flower of the army, and, Wolfe, fearing that, if 
he persisted any longer, his retreat might be cut off, 
quietly retreated again to his camp, across the 
Montmorenci. This attack has often been censur- 
ed as rash, and, after viewing the ground, I presume 
most persons would pronounce that judgment to be 
correct. General Wolfe himself, sjiys : " The ene- 
my were indeed posted upon a commanding emi- 
nence. The beach, upon whjch the troops were 

" Wolfe's Irflf »• to Mr. Pitt 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, 241 

drawn up, was of a deep mud, with holes, and cut 
by several gulHes. The hill to be ascended, very 
steep, and not every wiicre practicable. The ene- 
my numerous in their entrenchments, and their fire 
hot. If the attack had succeeded, our loss must 
certainly have been great, and theirs inconsiderable, 
from the shelter which the neighbouring woodg af- 
forded them. The river of St. Charles still remain- 
ed to be passed, before the town was invested. All 
these circumstances I considered ; but, the desire 
to act in conformity to the king's intentions, induced 
me to make this trial, persuaded that a victorious 
army finds no difficulties."* 

General Wolfe expected, (had he succeeded,) to 
have penetrated the left of the French camp, where 
his artillery, from the opposite heights, had made 
an impression. Without claiming to have any mili- 
tary knowledge, I may perhaps, be allowed to say, 
that, after toiling up this hill, on foot, and finding it an 
arduous undertaking to one entirely unmolested, it ap- 
pears next to madness, to lead columns of men up 
a long and steep ascent, where, especially in a hot 
summer's day, they could not, for many minutes, 
proceed upon the run, without being put out of 
^.breath, and where the well directed fire of deeply 
entrenched troops, aided by artillery, must speedily 
cut down, (as it actually did,) one half of those who 
made the rash attempt, while they, in turn, could do 
their enemy little or no harm. 

» Wolfe'3 letter to Mr. Pitt. 
21^ 



242 TOUK BETWtKN HARTFORD AND Q,LI.Bi:c 

(t was an affair, extremely like Bunker's hill, in al- 
most all its circumstances, except that the French pos- 
.^essed regular entrenchments, abundance of cannon, 
and experienced commanders and troops, while tht- 
Americans, at Bunker's Hill, had nothing more than 
a small redoubt, and a very imperfect breast work, 
throjvn up in one night, and made, to some extent, 
of rail fence and hay, and were almost without can- 
non, and with commanders and troops, most of 
whom had never been in battle before. Had they 
been situated at Bunker's Hill, as the French were, 
at Montmorenci, they would, without doubt, have 
finally repulsed the assailants. If General Wolfe 
nad lived, and ultimately failed in the campaign, he 
would probably have been censured, with much 
more severity, especially had he been frustrated in 
the attempt to gain the plains of Abraham, which he 
certainly would have been, had the French com- 
mander been as much on his guard there, as at 
Montmorenci. 

la the recital of the horrors of war, we view them 
with wonderful apathy, for the very reason, that 
ought to excite the deepest interest, because the re- 
sults are given by hundreds and by tkou^ajids. In 
this vast aggregate of human woe, we forget the par- 
liculav sufferings, and are much less affected, (a** 
has often been remarked by moral writers,) by the 
accounts of the slaughter of armies, than we should 
be by the detailed exhibition, of the sufferings of a 
sinsle soklif i But we ©usht to' remember that ev- 



iOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 24 



<y 



cry wounded and dying man has his own individual 
agony, and tliat it is not greater for a AVolfe, than 
tbr every private soldier. 

The following anecdote* contains an account of the 
dangers and sufferings of two individuals, in this very 
battle, and the event happened on tlie very ground 
which we w^alked over, in this day's excursion. I 
presume that, notwithstanding its length, I shall be 
excused for its introduction : — 

*' Captain Ochterlony, and Ensign Peyton, be- 
ionged to the re2;inient of Brigadier-General Monck- 
ton. They were nearly of an age, which did not 
exceed thirty ; the first was a North-Briton, the 
other a native of Ireland. Both were agreeable in 
person, and unblemished in character, and connect- 
ed together by the ties of mutual friendship and es- 
teem. On the day that preceded the battle. Cap- 
tain Ochterlony had been obliged to fight a duel 
with a German officer, in which, though he wound- 
(?d and disarmed his antagonist, yet he himself re- 
ceived a dangerous hurt under the right arm, in 
consequence of which his friends insisted on his re- 
maining in camp during the action of next day; but 
his spirit was too great to comply with this remon- 
strance. He declared it should never be said that 
a scratch, received in a private rencounter, had pre- 
vented him from doing his duly, when his country 
required his service ; and he took the field with a 

-r,,.,';,3t .. Tr..fr.;.i- r^( Tngland, Vol. V. page 49. 



244 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

fusil in his hand, though he was hardly able to car- 
ry his arms. In leading up his men to the enemy's 
entrenchment, he was shot through the lungs with a 
musket ball, an accident which obliged him to part 
with his fusil, but he still continued advancing, un- 
til, by loss of blood, he became too weak to proceed 
further. About the same time, Mr. Peyton was 
lamed by a shot, which shattered the small bone of 
his left leg. The soldiers, in their retreat, earnest- 
ly begged, with tears in their eyes, that Captain 
Ochterlony would allow them to carry him and the 
ensisrn off the field. But he was so big:otted to a 
severe point of honour, that he would not quit the 
ground, though he desired they would take care of 
his Ensign. Mr. Peyton, with a generous disdain, 
r^ected their good offices, declaring that he would 
not leave his Captain in such a situation ; and, in a 
little time, they remained sole survivors on that part 
of the field. 

" Captain Ochterlony sat down by his friend, 
and, as they expected nothing but immediate death, 
they took leave of each other ; yet they were not 
altogether abandoned by the hope of being protect- 
ed as prisoners ; for the Captain seeing a French 
soldier, with two Indians, approach, started up, and 
accosting them in the French language, which he 
spoke perfectly well, expressed his expectation that 
they would treat him and his companion as officers, 
prisoners, and gentlemen. The two Indians seem- 
ed to be entirely under the conduct of the French- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 245 

man, who, coming up to Mr. Peyton, as he sat on 
the ground, snatched his laced hat from his head, 
and robbed the Captain of his watch and money. 
This outrasie was a sisinal to the Indians for murder 
and pillage. One of them, clubbing his firelock, 
struck at him behind, with a view to knock him 
down, but the blow missing his head, took place 
upon his shoulder. At the same instant, the other 
Indian poured his shot into the breast of this unfor- 
tunate young gentleman, who cried out, * O Pey- 
ton ! the villain has shot me.' Not yet satiated 
with cruelty, the barbarian sprung upon him, and 
stabbed him in the belly with his scalping knife. 
The Captain having parted with his fusil, had no 
weapon for his defence, as none of the officers wore 
swords in the action. The three ruffians finding 
him still alive, endeavoured to strangle him with his 
own sash ; and he was now upon his knees, strug- 
gling against them with surprising exertion. Mr. 
Peyton, at this juncture, having a double-barrelled 
musket in his hand, and seeing the distress of his 
friend, fired at one of the Indians, who dropped 
dead on the spot. The other, thinking the ensign 
would now be an easy prey, advanced towards him, 
and Mr. Peyton, having taken good aim, at the dis- 
tance of four yards, discharged his piece the second 
time, but it seemed to take no effect. The savage 
fired in his turn, and wounded the ensign in the 
shoulder ; then rushing upon him, thrust his bayo- 
net through his body ; he repea,ted the blow, which 



il4Q TOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC . 

Mr. Peyton attempting to parry, received another 
wound in his left hand ; nevertheless, he seized the 
Indian's musket with the same hand, pulled him 
forwards, and, with his right, drawing a dagger 
wliich hung by his side, plunged it in the barbari- 
an's side. A violent struggle ensued ; but at length, 
Mr. Peyton was uppermost, and, with repeated 
strokes of his dagger, killed his antagonist outright. 
Here he was seized with an unaccountable emotion 
of curiosity, to know whether or not his shot had 
taken place on the body of the Indian ; he accor- 
dingly turned him up, and stripping ofFhis blanker, 
perceived that the ball had penetrated quite through 
the cavity of the breast. Having thus obtained a 
dear bought victory, he started up on one leg, and 
saw Captain Ochterlony standing at the distance of 
sixty yards, close by the enemy's breast-work, with 
the French soldier attending him. Mr. Peyton then 
called aloud, 'Captain Ochterlony, I am glad to see 
you have at last got under protection. Beware of 
that villain, who is more barbarous than the sava- 
ges. God bless you, my dear Captain. I see a par- 
ty of Indians coming this way, and expect to be 
murdered immediately.' A number of those barba- 
rians had for some time been employed on the left, 
in scalping and pillaging the dying and the dead that 
were left upon the field of battle ; and above thirty 
of them were in full march to destroy Mr. Peyton. 
This gentleman knew he had no mercy to expect ; 
for, should his life be spared for the present, they 



TOUR BETWEEN HAKTFOilD AJND ttUEBKi;. 247 

would have afterwards insisted upon sacnficing him 
to the manes of their brethren whom he had slain ; 
and in that case he would have been put to death 
by the most excruciating tortures. Full of this idea, 
he snatched up his musket, and, notwithstanding his 
broken leg, ran above forty yards without halting ; 
and feeling himself now totally disabled, and inca- 
pable of proceeding one step further, he loaded his 
piece, and presented it to the two foremost Indians- 
who stood aloof, waiting to be joined by their fel- 
lows : while the French, from their breast-works, 
kept up a continual fire of cannon and small arms 
upon this poor, solitary, maimed gentleman. In this 
uncomfortable situation he stood, when ho discerned 
at a distance, a Highland officer, with a party of his 
men, skirting the plain towards the field of battle. 
He forthwith waved his hand in signal of distress, 
and being perceived by the officer, he detached 
three of his men to his assistance. These brave 
fellows hastened to him through the midst of a ter- 
rible fire, and one of them bore him off on his 
shoulders. The Highland officer was Captain Mac- 
donald, of Colonel Frazer's battalion ; who, under- 
standing that a young gentleman, his kinsman, had 
dropped on the field of battle, had put himself at the 
head of this party, with which he penetrated to the 
middle of the field, drove a considerable number of 
the French and Indians before him, and finding hfs 
relation still unscalped, carried him off in triumph. 
Poor Captain Ocbterlony was conveyed to Quebec, 



248 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^UEBCC 

where, in a few days, he died of liis wounds. After 
ihe reduction of that place, tlie French surgeons 
who attended him, declared, that, in all probability, 
he would have recovered of the two shots he had 
received in his breast, had he not been mortally 
wounded in the belly by the Indian's scalping 
knife. 

" As this very remarkable scene was acted in 
^ight of both armies, General Townshend, in the 
sequel, expostulated with the French officers upon 
the inhumanity of keeping up such a severe lire 
against two wounded gentlemen, who were disa- 
bled, and destitute of all hope of escaping. They 
answered, that the fire was not made by the regu- 
lars, but by the Canadians and savages, whom it 
was not in the power of discipline to restrain." 

EXCURSION TO THE FALLS OF CHAUDIITRE 

Oct. S. — With our faithful Gouvan, and our com- 
fortable calash, we crossed the St. Lawrence about 
the middle of the day. We had come down to the 
wharf much earlier, and waited two hours for the 
boat, which was detained on the other side, at the 
command of a party of the ofiicers of justice, who 
had gone over to whip a culprit ; at length, a great 
company of them returned in the boat, with their 
badges, and bringing with them the miserable man. 
As usual elsewhere, in such cases, it excited and 
gratified the mob, but the disgraced and chastised 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 249 

offender, wore an aspect very different from the 
consequential air of the constables, or from the grin- 
ning insolence of the populace. 

Arrived on the opposite shore, we soon ascend- 
ed the steep heights of Point Levi— saw where 
General Monckton erected his batteries, to bom- 
bard the city, previous to the unsuccessful battle at 
Montmorenci — and enjoyed a brilliant and new 
view of Quebec, and of its environs — the fortifica- 
tions and precipices appearing particularly grand 
from this elevation. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE VIGNETTE. — [See title J) age.) 

VIEW OF QUEBEC FROM POINT LEVI. 

No position, in which we were placed, afforded 
us so impressive a view of the rock of Quebec, and 
particularly of its castellated appearance, as this from 
the summit of Point Levi. After the prints that 
have been already described, this will be readily in- 
telligible. The distance is about one mile. On the 
extreme left, is a glimpse of the heights and plains of 
Abraham — on the extreme right, the hills about 
Beauport and Montmorenci. Immediately before 
us, is the rock of Quebec 3 and the extent of the 
part that is seen, is about one mile : nearly the whole 
of it is, literally, a naked rocky precipice, of a very 
dark hue, almost black, and composed of enormous 
strata of slate and lime stone, very rude, both on 
account of their natural contortions, and the eiRecH 

22 



250 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOUD AND QUEBEC. 

of blasting, and of other forms of violence upon 
them. On the summit of the rock, on the left, 
where it is three hundred antl forty-five feet high, is 
the citadel, standing on Cape Diamond; some way 
to the right of this, where the rock declines consid- 
erably in height, appears the castle of St. Louis, 
(more distinctly exhibited in print 6.) Still further 
to the right, and scarcely distinguishable among the 
buildings, is the Prescot gate, at the top of mountain 
street, which comes obliquely up from the lower 
town, and affords the only communication on this 
side of the rock. Beyond the gate, on the left, is 
seen the English Episcopal cathedral, and, to the 
right, the Roman Catholic cathedral, the parhament 
house, the seminary, &ic. and, in front of these last, 
is the wall of the city, with embrasures and cannon, 
forming the grand battery, which occupies a lower 
level, or natural platform of the rock, which is here 
about two hundred and thirty feet high. 

At the foot of the rock, is the lower town, and, if 
we add to it, that part exhibited from Montmoren- 
ci, (print 8,) w^e have then very nearly the whole of 
the lower town ; it may be added, that print 8, and 
this vignette, in connexion, exhibit nearly the whole 
of the rock of Quebec. Nearly on the extreme left 
of the rock, at the foot of Cape Diamond, in the 
lower town, is the place where General Montgome- 
ry was slain on the morning of December 31, 1775; 
and, on the ri2;hl, at tlie foot of the rock, or grand 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 25J 

battery, is the street where General Arnold's party 
were defeated and captured, on the same occasion. 
This vignette is the only print in this volume, that 
is not original. It is common at Quebec, on bank 

bills, and, Mr. W , finding it so very exact a 

representation of the fine scene, which we contem- 
plated, from Point Levi, adopted, and copied it, with 
some slight variations. The engraver has given it 
still greater precision, by reference to the view of 
Quebec, on Colonel Bouchette's topographical map 
of Lower Canada. 

* * * 4f * ^ * 

The villages through which we passed, were not 
so well built as Beauport ; a larger proportion of the 
houses were constructed of logs, and the people ap- 
peared not in so good circumstances, but still they 
were comfortable. 

The road to Montmorenci was rough ; that over 
which we were now passing, vvas smooth, and, com- 
pared with any other roads that we had seen in 
Canada, it was very fine. We passed through a 
large settlement, sustained principally by the great 
lumber establishment of Mr. Caldwell, and soon ar- 
rived at the mouth of the Chaudiere river, over 
which we were ferried. 

During our whole ride from Point Levi, we had 
been gratified by a succession of fine views : the 
river — the opposite shores, precipitous in almost 
every direction — the heights of Abraham — Cape 



252 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

Diamond, and the upper and lower towns — the 
slopes of Beauport, and the heights of Montmoren- 
ci — the Isle of Orleans, and the bosom of the riv- 
«r — some of these features were constantly, either in 
prospect, or in retrospect ; and we saw many scenes 
whicli would have been well worthy of the pencil. 

Among these, one was selected, of which the an- 
nexed print is a representation. 

PRTXT, NO. 9. 

This scene, which we thought not to be exceed- 
ed in beauty by any thing that we saw in Canada, 
was sketched from the left bank of the Chaudiere 
river, at its mouth. Our road from Point Levi, 
conducted us to the foot of the precipice of rock, 
which is seen on the opposite side of tlie Chaudi- 
ere ; and, while a larger boat was getting ready to 
convey over carriages and horses, Mr. W. had the 
good fortune to cross first, in a small boat, and occu- 
pied the few moments, before the rest of us arrived, 
in securing the outlines of this grand and beautiful 
prospect. 

It was seen by the mildest, softest light, of an In- 
dian summer afternoon — not more than two hours 
before sun-setting ; and there was a mellowness in 
the tints, especially of the remoter objects, which, 
notwithstanding the grandeur of some of the fea- 
tures of the landscape, excited still stronger percep- 
tions of beauty. These impressions were heighten- 
(»d by contrast, with the deep black gulf, immediate- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 253 

ly below the observer, and a little to the right. — 
This is the mouth of a very considerable river, the 
Chaudiere, which here, comiug from the south- 
east, pours its black waters into the deep green St. 
Lawrence, and is so imprisoned, between very ab- 
rupt precipitous shores, principally of rock,* but 
overhung in part by forest, tliat, from the high bank 
where the view was taken, only a part of the river 
is seen. Some idea of the height of these banks 
will be gained, by comparison with the ships, which 
here lie securely anchored in the mouth of the Chau- 
diere ; they are European ships, in quest of lumber, 
and appeared to be generally of between two and 
three hundred tons burthen. 

On the right, at tlie distance of six or seven miles, 
we see Point Levi ; in the middle of the extreme 
distance, are the hills about Montmorenci. distant 
about twelve miles ; on the smooth expanse of the 
river between, numberless ships are seen to repose, 
surrounded and tinged, by the peculiaily attemper- 
ed light, of what I presume painte?'s would call a 
perfect Claude Lorrain sky. On the left, is Que- 
bec, with its citadel, built on Cape Diamond, and 
nearer, a glimpse of a part of the plains of Abraham, 
with some of the Martello towers. The distance is 
about six miles, and the bearing nearly north-easi 
by north ; the distance by the road, is nine miles. 

* The rock on the opposite shore, is extremely well character 
hed,greificacke, (the grey wacke of Weroer.) 
22* 



254 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AKT) qtJEBEC, 
****** 4f 

After crossing the Chaudiere, our road became 
more rough, and was evidently much less frequent- 
ed. In mounting the bank from the Chaudiere, it 
was so steep, that it was with difficulty the horse 
dragged up the empty calash. 

Somewhat less than two miles from the falls, we 
turned into the fields, and, at a farm-house, obtain- 
ed a French Canadian to act as our guide through 
scenes, which, we were assured, would, to stran- 
gers, soon become quite a labyrinth. It was not 
long, before we were obliged to leave our calash, 
and proceed on foot, when, crossing a small river, 
we entered a forest, where an obscure cart path, 
soon dwindled into a foot path, which we pursued 
over a rugged and unpleasant variety of surface. 

The afternoon was very hot, and we were much 
fatigued, but our journey was rendered less irksome, 

by the society of Mr. H d, an interesting young 

Hibernian, who had accompanied us from Quebec. 

Owing to our detention at the ferry, it was near- 
ly sun-down when we arrived at the falls, and we 
were too much hurried, to enjoy the Chaudiere 
quite at our leisure, as we yesterday did the Montmo- 
renci. 

The Chaudiere is a river of considerable magni- 
tude, but, owing to its numerous rapids, falls, and 
various obstructions, it is scarcely navigable, even 



TOLR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 255 

tor canoes. It rises from the Lake Megantic, near 
the American territory : its general width is from 
four hundred to six hundred yards, and its course is 
more than one hundred miles long. The banks 
are, in general, high, rocky, and steep, " the bed 
rugged, and much contracted by rocks, jutting from 
the sides, that occasion violent rapids."* 

Among the falls in this river, those which we had 
come to visit, are the most considerable. 

Salient points of rock, narrow the river so much, 
that its breadth does not exceed four hundred feet, 
and the descent is estimated at one hundred and 
thirty.* Enormous masses of rock lie on the shore, 
contiguous to the falls, and by similar masses, the 
cataract is divided into three parts, which reunite, 
before they plunge into the abyss at the bottom. 

Ledges of clay slate, alternating with grey wacke 
slate, and red slate, here form the natural dam, over 
which the water is precipitated. I saw no granite, 
as Lieutenant Hall mentions in his travels ; and, as 
the region is a transition one, I doubt whether he 
has not fallen into a mistake on this point. 

We emerged from the deep gloom of the forest, 
exactly at the place where the cataract becomes vis- 
ible, although the sound produced by it, (at a dis- 
tance scarcely audible,) had been for some time 
rapidly increasing on the ear. 

This cataract is grand, and wild, and turbulent, 
roaring, and dashing, and foaming over its irregular 

" Bouchette. 



256 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

barrier current encountering current, and all 

plunging into a restless whirlpool, boiling with in- 
cessant agitation ; thence, undoubtedly, its French 
name, of the Pot, or boiling Cauldron. 

Colonel Bouchette has given the following accu- 
rate sketch of these falls : — " The continual action 
of the water, has worn the rock into deep excava- 
tions, that give a globular figure to the revolving bod- 
ies of white foam, as they descend, and greatly in- 
crease the beautiful effect of the fall; the spray 
thrown up, being quickly spread by the w^ind, pro- 
duces in the sun shine, a most splendid variety of 
prismatic colours. The dark hued foliage of the 
woods, that on each side, press close upon the mar- 
gin of the river, forms a striking contrast with the 
snow-like effulgence of the falling torrent ; the hur- 
ried motion of the flood, agitated among the rocks 
and hollows, as it forces its way towards the St 
Lawrence, and the incessant sound, occasioned by 
the cataract itself, form a combination, that strikes 
forcibly upon the senses, and amply gratifies the cu- 
riosity of the admiring spectator." 

The falls of the Chaudiere are, by many, consid- 
ered as superior to those of the Montmorenci; but, 
although vastly grander on account of their width, 
and the great quantity of water, they did not strike 
us, as having such peculiar beauties, and as differ- 
ing so much from common cataracts ; that of Mont- 
morenci, is probably without a parallel in North 
America. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 257 



******* 

The Chaudiere is interesting, from its connexion 
with a projected road* to the United States. The 
Canadian settlements on ihe river du Loup, are 
seventy miles from the nearest American settle- 
ments on the Kennebec, and only twenty from the 
American line. A mountainous ridge intervenes — 
it is quite wdld, but is intersected by numerous riv- 
ers and streams, and would, without doubt, aiFord 
practicable passes for roads. A mutual good un- 
derstanding betv/een the contiguous countries, would 
soon effect the object ; indeed, Massachusetts, be- 
fore the late war, appointed commissioners for the 
purpose of making a road to the height of land : This 
will probably be effected at a future, and not very 
distant period, and will bring Quebec within a dis- 
tance of no more than two hundred miles by land, 
from Hallowel, on the Kennebec; and thence to 
the ocean, the communication is uninterrupted. 
By this road, it will be only three hundred and sev- 
enty miles to Boston. From Quebec, there is al- 
ready an excellent road for fifty miles up the Chau- 
diere, and a tolerable one to the settlements on the 
river du Loup.f 

******* 

* It was by this route, that General Arnold's party, in 1775, pen- 
f hated to Quebec. 

t Bouchelte. 



iil58 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

It was eight o'clock, and quite dark, before, on 
our return, we reached the ferry, at Point Levi ; the 
steam boat had stopped for the niglit, and no per- 
suasions or temptations of ours could induce the 
boatmen to put out again. Fortunately for us, a 
party arrived soon after, who appeared to be per- 
sons of influence, belonging to Quebec, and they 
induced the boatmen to go ; we fell into the train, 
and thus they did us good, probably without intend- 
ing it. 

Our late arrival gave lis the pleasure of enjoying 
a night view of Quebec, from a position, where, 
otherwise we should not have seen it. The few 
lights that were visible, in the upper town, served 
merely to mark its outline. The lower town look- 
ed like the illuminated foot of a gloomy mountain. 
It was so dark, when we landed, that the dirt of 
the lower town could not be seen, and we wound 
ourvvay lip through the steep and intricate passages, 
rendered faindy visible, by a few lamps, which shed 
just light enough to exhibit the antique fashion of 
the houses, and to render us sensible of the gloom 

of its narrow crowded streets. Mr. W rode, 

but I walked with Mr. H d, and just as we 

passed through the perfectly dark arch of the Pres- 
cot gate, and issued into the city, a flash, like light- 
ning, illuminated the upper town, and was instantly 
followed by the thunder of the evening gun. It 
needed but httle help from imagination to make us 
believe that we were entering a fortress of the dark 



TOITR BJlTVVEEN HARTFORD AND qUKBEC 25J5 

ages, and the grand flourish of martial music, which 
immediately burst upon our ears, with the full swell 
and deep intonation of bugle-horns, clarionets, and 
trumpets, and other wind instruments, was well 
adapted to increase the illusion. The imperfect 
light served to magnify the size of the place d'armes, 
or military parade, in which we were arrived, and 
we hastened to the opposite side of it, contiguous 
to the barracks, (formerly the College of the Jesu- 
its.) Here we found the band, consisting of about 
twenty Germans, who continued to play, for some- 
time, and seemed as much gratified with their own 
music as if il had possessed, for them, the charm of 
novelty. 

PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 

I have several times had occasion to mention that 
the weather has been very fine, since we have been 
ia Canada. It has been particularly so since our 
arrival at Quebec, and the thermometer has been 
at summer heat, or even above, so that our excur- 
sions up and down the streets of this mountainous 
city, and over its environs, has been sometimes 
very fatiguing. 

On one of the fine mornings, we drove out 
through the magnificent gate of St. Louis, to the 
celebrated plains of Abraham, for no one would 
leave Quebec, without visiting the ground on which 
was fought the battle, that decided the fate of Can- 



260 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

ada, and ultimately terminated the empire of the 
French in North America. 

There are probably few scenes of warfare, which 
are more intelligible than those in this vicinity. It 
is very obvious, (after becoming acquainted with 
the peculiarities of the place,) that any army that 
is to act against Quebec, must encounter very un- 
common difficulties. We have already had occasion 
to advert to some of them, while speaking of the 
scenes that occurred at Montmorenci. 

The unsuccessfid termination of that affair, 
evinced, that nothing w^as to be hoped from any ad- 
ditional efforts in that quarter. The season was 
already far advanced — the expected co-operation 
from General Amherst, by the way of lake Cham- 
plain, and from General Johnson, through lake On- 
tario had not been realized, and it became absolute- 
ly necessary to attempt something decisive, as the 
season would soon compel the English to abandon 
the campaign. The camp at Montmorenci was 
therefore broken up, and on the sixth of Septem- 
ber, the troops were embarked and transported up 
the river ; they were landed, for a season at Point 
Levi, and refreshed on the southern shore, .l?ut after 
some days, again went on board, and were convey- 
ed three leagues above the city. General Mont- 
calm dispatched a corps of observation after them, 
consisting of one thousand five hundred men, under 
General Bougainville, but still maintained his station 
with the main army, at Beauport. 



TpUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ttUEBEC. 2G 1 

On the twelfth of September, one hour af- 
ter midnight, General Wolfe, with his army, leav- 
ing the ships, embarked in boais, and .sileyitlv 
dropped down with the current, intending to land ;i 
league above Cape Diamond, and thus to gain liie 
heights of Abraham. But, owing to the rapidity of 
the current, they fell below their intended place, 
and disembarked at what is now called Wolfe's 
cove, a mile, or a mile and a half, above the city. 
The operation was a most critical one — they had 
to navigate in silence, down a rapid stream—to hit 
upon the right place for a landing, which in the 
dark, might be easily mistaken — the shore was 
shelving, and the bank to be ascended was steep 
and lofty, and scarcely practicable, even without 
opposition. Doubtless, it was this combination of 
circumstances, \vhich lulled the vijrilance of the 
vv^ary and discerning Montcalm : he thought such 
an enterprise absolutely impracticable, and there- 
fore had stationed only sentinels and picket guards 
along this precipitous shore. 

Indeed, the attempt was, in the greatest danger 
oi being defeated by an occurrence, which is very 
Interesting, as marking much more emphatically, 
than dry official accounts can do, the very preai 
delicacy of the transaction. 

One of the French sentinels, posted along the shore, 
challenged the Enghsh boats in the customary mili- 
tary language of the French, " (^ui vii,'^ who goes 
'here, towliich a Captain of Frazer's regiment, wk0 

23 



262 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

had served in Holland, and was familiar with the 
French language and customs, promptly replied, "Z« 
France,'''* The next question was much more embar- 
rassing, for the sentinel demanded ^^aquel regimentT' 
^* to what regiment." The Captain who happened 
to know the name of one of the regiments which was 
up the river, w^ith Bougainville, promptly rejoined, 
''' de la Reine^^^ — " the Queen's." The soldier im- 
mediately replied, ^^passe,^^ for he concluded at 
once, that this was a French convoy of provisions, 
which, as the English had learned, from some de- 
serters, was expected to pass dow^n the river to 
Quebec. The other sentinels were deceived in a 
similar manner; but, one, less credulous than the 
rest, running down to the water's edge, called out, 
"' Pourquoi est ce que vous ne parlez plus haut f" 
'' Why dont you speak louder r" The same Cap- 
tain, with perfect self-command, replied, "Tai toi, 
nous serons entendues !" '' Hush, we shall be over- 
heard and discovered."* The sentry satisfied with 
this caution retired. The Brhish boats were on 
the point of being fired into, by the Captain of one 
of their own transport ships, who, ignorant of what 
was going on, took them for French; but General 
Wolfe perceiving a commotion on board, row^ed 
along side in person, and prevented the firing which 
would have alarmed the town, and frustrated the 
enterprize. General Wolfe, although greatly re- 
duced by a fever, to which a dysentery was super- 

^ SmoJlct, Vol. v.p. 56. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 263 

added, was nevertheless the first man to leap 
ashore. The rugged precipices, full of projections 
of rocks and of trees, and shrubs growing every 
where among the cliffs, into which the bank was 
broken, presented a most forbidding appearance, 
and General Wolfe familiarly speaking to an officer 
who stood by, said, " 1 don't believe there is any 
possibihty of getting up, but you must do your en- 
deavour." There was only a narrow path, leading 
obhquely up the hill ; this had been rendered by 
the enemy impassable, in consequence of being 
broken up by cross ditches, and there was besides 
an entrenchment at the top, defended by a Captain's 
guard.* This guard was easily dispersed, and the 
troops then pulled themselves up by taking hold of 
the boughs and stumps of the trees and of the pro- 
jections of the rocks. 

This precipice (which may be in different places, 
from one hundred fifty to two hundred feet high,) 
is still very rude and rugged, but probably much 
less so than in 1759 ; it can now be surmounted, 
without very great difficulty, by men who are un- 
molested. 

Wolfe staked all, upon a very hazardous advcii- 
ture ; had he been discovered prematurely, through 
a spy, a deserter, or an alarmed sentry, his army 

* I was assured, by nn officer of the British army, at Quebec, 
that this very French Captain, who commanded the guard at this 
place, is still living on the river Sorel, and more than one hun- 
dred years old. I saw, at Montreal, an old officer, who was with 
Wolfe, on this occasion; he was over fonr score. 



264 TOUR BETWEKN HARTFORD AND qUEBFX\ 

would Lave been inevitably lost ; but having gained 
the heights, he formed his troops, and met the ene- 
my in good order. 

The plains of Abraham lie South and West of 
Quebec, and commence the moment you leave the 
walls of the city. They are a ver}^ elevated tract 
of ground ; this must of course be the fact, as they 
are on the summit of the heights which terminate at 
the river; they are nearly level — free from trees and 
all other obstacles, and I presume Vvcre nearly so* at 
the time of the battle. Our military friend, Cap- 

i^'m , with true professional feeling, remarked, 

fhat it was " a fine place for a baitle.^^ I went to 
the brink of the precipice, where my guide assured 
me that Wolfe and the army came up ; a foot path, 
much trodden, leads through low bushes to the spot. 
I presume, that five hundred men, posted on this 
edge, would have repelled the wdiole army. 

It was about an hour before the dawn, that the 
army began to ascend the precipice, and by day 
light, they w^ere formed and in perfect preparation, 
^,0 meet the enemy. 

The Marquis de Montcalm, was no sooner in- 
formed, that the English troops were in possession 
of the heights of Abraham, than he prepared to 
fight them, and for this purpose marched his army 
across the Charles, from his entrenchments at 
Beauport, and between nine and ten o'clock the two 
armies met, face to face. Montcalm's numbers 
were nearly the same as those of the English army, 
"^ Except ppi'liaps on their confines. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 2Qo 

but nearly half of his troops were Indians and Ca^ 
nadians, while the whole of Wolfe's were disciplin- 
ed corps of the best description. The French 
General could not now, as at Montmorenci, avail 
himself of the cover of entrenchments, behind 
which undisciplined troops, especially if skilled in 
marksmanship, have often repelled the assaults of 
veterans. 

Montcalm made however the best possible dis- 
position of his troops — apportioning his regulars, in 
such distinct bodies, along the hne, as to support the 
irregulars, in the most effectual manner. In front, 
among the cornfields and bushes, he placed one 
thousand five hundred of his best marksmen, prin- 
cipally Indians and Canadians, whose destructive 
fire was patiently borne by the British line,* but they 
reserved their own till the enemy, whose main 
body they perceived rapidly advancing, was within 
forty yards, when it was poured in upon the French, 
and continued with such deadly effect, that it could 
not be withstood. The French fought bravely, but 
they were broken, and notwithstanding one or two 
efforts to make a stand, and renew the attack, they 
were so successfully pushed by the British bayonet, 
and hewn down by the highland broad sword, that 
their discomfiture was complete. The battle was 
particularly severe on the French left, and the Eng- 
lish right. This ground is very near the St. Law- 

""■- The advanced guards bad exchanged shots for some hours be- 
fore- 

23* 



266 TOUii B£TVVEExN ilAHTFOKD AND CiLJhlJBEC. 

reiice, and but a little distance in front of the citadel, 
and all the events that passed there, must have been 
distinctly seen by those on the walls of Quebec. It 
must have been a most interesting spectacle, and we 
can easily enter into the feelings of the American 
French, who viewed their country and their city, 
and their firesides, and homes, as involved in the 
issue of this battle. With what emotions then, must 
they have seen their defenders, not only falling in 
the ranks, but driven by the furious onset of the 
enemy to the walls of the city, where they were 
slaughtered by the bayonet and broad sword, on the 
very glacis, and in the ditches, immediately under 
their eyes. About one thousand of the French 
were killed ond wounded, arid more than half that 
number of the English, and it is thought that the 
French army would have been totally destroyed, if 
the city had not opened its gates, to receive a part, 
and if another part had not taken refuge in the works 
over the St. Charles. 

Montcalm was on the French left, and Wolfe on 
tiie English right, and here they both fell, in the 
critical moment that decided the victory. Wolfe, 
f.arly in the action, received a bullet in his wrist, but 
he bound it around with his handkerchief, and con- 
{inued to encourage his troops : soon after, another 
hall penetrated his groin, but this wound, although 
much more severe, he concealed, and persevered 
till a third bullet pierced his breast. It was not till 
that moment, that he submitted to be carried into 



TOUK BETWEEN HAPuTFORl) AND (QUEBEC. 26/ 

the rear of the line : he was no lon2;er able to stand, 
and leaned his head upon the shoulder of a lieuten- 
ant who sat down for that purpose — when being 
aroused by the " distant sound of they fly — they 
fly," he eagerly asked, " who fly?'' awd being told 
it was the French, he replied, then " I die happy.'* 
He asked to be sustained on his feet, that he might 
once more behold the field, but his eyes were al- 
ready swimming in death, his vision was gone, and 
he expired on the spot. This death has furnished 
I grand and pathetic subject for the painter, the 
poet, and the historian, and undoubtedly (consider- 
ed as a specimen of mere military glory,) it is one of 
the most sublime that the annals of war afford. 
From my earliest childhood, I had ardently wished 
to see the plains of Abraham, and to stand on the 
place where Wolfe expired. To-day I enjoyed that 
pensive satisfaction, and easily passed in imagina- 
tion from tlie quiet and security in which we saw 
these beautiful plains, to the tremendous collision of 
ten thousand men in arms. 

A round stone of red granite, four or five feet, by 
two or three in diameter — not a fixed rock, but a 
loose stone, marks the spot where Wolfe expired 
in the moment of victory. This stone was placed 
here thirty"^ years after the battle — and is one of the 
four stones arranged in a meridian line by the sur- 
veyor general of Canada, in 1790, for the purpose 
of adjusting the instruments used in the public sur- 
* Bouchette. 



26S TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

veys of land. This stone lias been so much 
rounded, by having portions detached by visitors, 
that it was with the utmost difficulty, I could knock 
off a small piece as relic. Fortunately the entire 
stone is too large to be carried away and it cannot be 
broken to pieces except by gun powder. 

A fine monument to Lord Nelson, graces the 
market place in Montreal — but there is no monu- 
ment to Wolfe, even on the spot where he fell. 

When I expressed to an English officer, my sur- 
prise, at this omission, he reminded me, (what in- 
deed might have been very obvious upon a little re- 
flection,) that the feelings of a French population 
were not to be forgotten, and, that such a monu- 
ment might be offensive to them.* 

The victorious hero has engrossed the plaudits of 
the world, but Montcalm deserved as much com- 
mendation as Wolfe. Except the massacre at Fort 
William Henry, (which, however, it is said he ex- 
erted himself, although unsuccessfully, to prevent,) 
I know^ of no other imputation on his memory ; and 
in talent, military skill, and personal courage, and 
devotion to his king and country, he was in no way 
inferior to his rival. He survived long enough to 
write a letter, with his own hand, to the English 

* Nearly opposite to our lodgings in St. Joliii-street, is the only 
monjnjent to Wolfe, which we saw in Quebec. It is a statue, I 
believe, of wood, handsomely carved, and about as large as life; 
it is in the military costume of that day, and is said to he a good 
likeness of Wolfe. It stands in a niche, ia the an^le of a house, 
or shop, and exposed to the weather. 



TOtril BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 269 

General, recommending the 'French prisoners to 
his humanity, and, when informed that his wound 
was mortal, he expressed great satisfaction that he 
should not live to see the fall of Quebec, which ca- 
pitulated five days after. Montcalm's second in 
command. General Senezergus, also died of his 
wounds. 

Had Montcalm succeeded in preserving Canada 
from conquest, and, had Quebec been successfully 
defended by his valour, his fame would have been 
'.'Xtolled, as much as that of Wolfe now is. 

This victory was, in its consequences, of im- 
mense importance. It eventually terminated a long 
course of bloody v/ars ; it gave permanent peace 
and security to the English colonies, rescued their 
vast frontier from all the horrors of savage vv^arfare, 
and even contributed largely to the general pacifi- 
(^•ation of Europe. It is one of the great epochs of 
Vmerican history. The French dominion in Amer- 
ica, utterly incompatible with the repose, or safety 
of the English settlements, and, after enduring one 
luuidred and fifty years, was soon to be finally ter- 
minated. Thus a providence, probably at the 
time, unseen and unobserved, by any of the parties, 
was preparing the way for American independence. 

No American can, therefore, contemplate with 
indifference, the spot where Wolfe fell, and so much 
gallant blood was spilt. 

The French had still a powerful army, and some 
naval force above the city. and. in the ensuinji; 



270 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

spring, Monsieur Levi approached it from Mont- 
real, for the purpose of recovering it from the Eng- 
lish. General Murray, who commanded in Que- 
bec, marched out to meet him, and, on the 28th of 
April, 1760, a bloody battle occurred, three miles 
above the city, at Sillery ; the English army, very 
much inferior in numbers, to the French, was se- 
verely defeated, w^ith the loss of one thousand men, 
and the French, it is said, suffered still more. The 
English retreated into Quebec, to which the French 
now laid siege, and, very possibly, would have re- 
duced it, but for the arrival of an English squadron, 
with reinforcements, when they abandoned the 
siege, and retired up the river. 

How large a portion of the history of modern 
Europe is occupied by the wars of England and 
France ! What rivers of each others blood, as v»"ell 
as of the blood of other nations, have not these rival 
empires shed ! Heroic, enlightened, refined, learn- 
ed, enterprising, both claiming the name of chris- 
tian; had their efforts been equally directed to 
promote the welfare of their own respective domin- 
ions, of each other, and of the world, by cultivating 
the arts of peace, and the virtues of civil life, what 
good might they not have done ! But, hke fero- 
cious beasts of prey, they have hunted each other 
out of every niche and corner of the globe; every 
colony, every little cluster of traders, or of agricul- 
turalists — every wandering bark,-if belonging to the 
rival power, has been exposed to these cruel as- 
saults. 



I 



TOlTR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 271 

In which quarter of the world, on what ocean or 
sea, in what country, on what island, or on what 
coast, of remotest India or America, have they not 
opened each others veins, till the earth cries out up- 
on them, for blood unrighteously shed ! 



FORTIFICATIONS OF QUEBEC. 

The strongest town in America, and one of the 
strongest in the world, demands a brief notice in 
this respect, although it will be such, as one unskil- 
led in military affairs, can give. 

It is quite obvious, from what has been said, that 
Quebec is possessed of great natural advantages. 
The lofty perpendicular precipices of naked rock, 
which, on the south and east, seperate a great part 
of the lower town from the upper, constitute, in 
themselves, on those sides, an insurmountable barrier; 
the river Charles, with its shallow waters, and low 
fiats, of sand and mud, drained almost dry, by the 
retiring of the tide, forms an insuperable impedi- 
ment to the erection of commanding works, or to 
the location of ships on the east and north, not to 
mention that all this ground is perfectly commanded, 
by the guns from the upper town. The only vul- 
nerable point is on the west and south, from the 
plains of Abraham. Cape Diamond, the highest 
point of the town, it is true, is rather more elevated 
than any part of the plains,* but the highest ground 

* Only ten or fifteen feet. Boucbette. 



272 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (iUEEEC, 

on the plains of Abraham, (the place which is called 
Ferguson's house,) " commands most of the works 
on this side of the town ;" besides, there is no bar- 
rier of rock, no river, ravine, marsh, or other natu- j 
lal obstacle, to hinder an approach upon this side ; 
this is the vulnerable side of Quebec, and here, 
therefore, it is fortified with the most anxious care. 

" The distance across the peninsula, from one riv- 
er to the other, in front of the line of fortification, i< 
one thousand eight hundred thirty-seven yards,"* or 
very nearly one mile — the circuit within the walls, 
is two miles and three quarters — immediately w^ith- 
out, it is probably three miles, and the average di- 
ameter is one thousand five hundred yards, or very 
nearly six-sevenths of a mile. 

A complete wall of massy stone, hewn, and laid 
up with elegance, as well as strength, completely 
encircles the town, and is furnished with strong 
massy arches and gates, and with deep ditches. 

It reminded me, much more than any thing that 
I have seen, either in England, or in my own coun- 
try, of the strong places of the Netherlands, particu- 
larly of Breda and of Bergen op Zoom. 

The walls of Quebec vary much, in different 
parts, in height and thickness. Every where, how- 
ever, they are high enough to render escalade very 
uifiicult, and ,a breach almost hopeless. In the 
strongest parts, next to the plains of Abrahau). they 

' Eoufthetle. 



TOUR BETWEEN HAIiTFORD AND Q.UEfiEC. 273 

appeared to me forty or fifty feet thick, and equally 
high. Even the lofty precipices of naked rock, are 
surmounted with a stone wall, and with cannon, and 
the highest points are crowned with towers, and dis- 
tinct batteries. In general, the curtains of the wall 
are looped for musketry, and projecting bastions 
present their artillery towards the assailants, in every 
direction, and, of course, so as to rake the ditches. 
A military man at Quebec, remarked to me, that, in 
storming a place, they preferred attacking the batte- 
ry or bastion, rather than the curtain, because the 
cross fire cuts down so many in the ditches. 

When we visited the plains of Abraham, we drove 
out and in by the gate St. Loli>s, where the wall ap- 
peared to be fifty feet thick, and nearly as high ; 
this was the judgment we formed, without inquiry — 
I need not say, without measurement.^' A deep 
ditch succeeds, and then there is an exterior, but 
lower wall, and another ditch, both of which must 
be scaled, before the main wall can be approach- 
ed. A storming party would be dreadfully ex- 
posed, while moujiting this exterior wall. The 
avenue to the gate, is bounded on both sides, by a 
high wall, and makes several turns, in zig zag. At 
every turn, cannon point directly, at the approach- 
es; and generally, dov/n every ditch, and in every 
possible direction, where the w alls can be approach- 
ed, great guns are ready to cut down the assailants.- 

* We were afterwards irjformed by a Briti.sk officer, that adual 
measurement gave this result. 

24 



274 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEU. 

I have several times remarked, that the promon- 
torv of rock, which constitutes the loftiest point of 
the upper town, is called Cape Diamond, and that, 
upon this, is erected the famous citadel of Quebec. 
This is not, as one might suppose, a building, or cas- 
tle, covered with a roof; it is open to the heavens, 
and differs from the rest of the works, only in being 
more elevated, stronger, and therefore more com- 
manding. 

The highest part of the citadel, is Brock's batte- 
ry, w'hich is a mound, artificially raised, higher than 
every thing else, and mounted with cannon, pointing 
towards the plains of Abraham. It was named after 
General Brock, who fell at Queenstown, and was 
erected during the late war, about the time that 
Montreal was threatened, by Generals "Wilkinson 
and Hampton. This commands every part of the 
works on that side, and is intended, I presume, be- 
sides the general objects of defence, to operate, in 
the last resort, on an enemy who may scale all the 
other walls. The citadel is forbidden ground, and, 
by rule, no person, not belonging to the military, or 
the supreme government, is admitted into it. 

By special iavor, however, we enjoyed this grati- 
fication ; the sentry, at first, refused to let us pass, al- 
though under patronage, which commanded his re- 
spect, but at length, with much reluctance, he yield- 
ed. 

This course of conduct is usual in such places, 
and may be judicious here, as preventing numerous 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 275 

and troublesome visits, but it appears very unneces- 
sary in a military point of view, for, the more the 
strength of the citadel is made known, the less dis- 
posed, I am persuaded, will any enemy be to attack 
it. Commodore Bainbridge, during his recent vis- 
it here, (I understand,) was freely shewn the citadel, 
and every part of the fortifications; and I heard a 
British officer say, that^ in his view, it was quite ri- 
diculous to pursue any other course, and to pretend 
to any secrecy about the thing. Still, however, I 
suppose the officers have orders from their superiors, 
not to introduce persons here, for the day after we had 
b(;en in the citadel, I was with two British military 
men. of considerable personal and official influence, 
and, while they were shewing me some apartments, 
contiguous to the citadel, I hinted a wish to see it, 
if it could be permitted, but was answered politely ^ 
although decidedly, that it could not. I did not tell 
them that I had already seen it. 

Every other part of the fortifications maybe free- 
ly visited by every body, but, on the side next to 
the St. Charles river, the sentry refused to permit 
me to approach the embrasui'e ; I wished to see how 
high the wall was at that place. 

From the citadel, the view of the river, of the town, 
and of the surrounding country, is, of course, extreme- 
ly grand and beautiful, but, in this instance, the rapid 
advance of evening, rendered the distant objects indis- 
tinct. We were, however, very forcibly struck with the 
formidable preparations, which seem on all sides. 



276 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 

to render an attack upon the place a hopeless enter- 
prise. Within the walls, are numerous magazines, 
furnished with every implement and preparation, 
and more or less proof against the various missiles 
of war. Piles of cannon balls are every where to 
be seen, and, I presume there are some hundreds of 
heavy cannon mounted on the walls, and in the va- 
rious defences. About forty acres of ground, with- 
in Cape Diamond, are reserved for military works.* 

Beyond the walls, on the plains of Abraham, are 
the four Martello towns, already mentioned ; they 
are solidly constructed of stone, and appear to be 
forty feet high, and, at the base, have probably a 
diameter not much inferior ; as they have cannon 
on their tops, they, of course, sweep the whole 
plain, and effectually command it; the particular 
object of their construction, was to prevent an ene- 
my from occupying the high ground, on the plains 
of Abraham. These towers are very strong, on 
the side farthest from the town, and weaker on the 
side next to it, that they may be battered from it, 
should an enemy obtain possession of them. 

On the whole, as long as the river is in possession 
of those who defend the town, and as long as the latter 
is sufficiently furnished with men, and other means 
necessary to render its fortifications efficient, there 
appears little hope of taking it at all, and certainly 
not without such an expense of blood, as it is very 
painful to contemplate. 

* Bouchetle. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,tJEBEC. 277 

An officer of the garrison informed us, that it 
took him one horn' and a half, merely to visit all the 
sentinels on duty, upon the various stations on the 
walls ; this appeai*s' to evince, that the walls cannot 
be much less than three miles in circuit ; and the 
same military man gave it as his opinion, that it 
would require at least ten thousand men for a com- 
petent garrison. 

The cold is so intense in the winter nights, par- 
ticularly on Cape Diamond, that the sentinels can- 
not stand it more than one hour, and are reheved at 
the expiration of that time. 

It is in vain to attempt to conceal, that the Cana- 
dians, and the government, in their various defen- 
ces, (and it is said that still more expensive works 
are in contemplation,^*) have reference to danger 
from only one source. 

It is to be hoped that the attempt to take Quebec 
by force, will never again be made, for, if it has al- 
ready cost so much blood, with defences compara- 
tively weak, what would it not cost now ?f 

* We are recently informed, by the newspapers, that these new 
works are going on very rapidly. July, 1820. 

t Going into a book-store in Quebec, I observed in one of the 
Gazettes of the city, a paragraph, copied from a recent American 
paper, to this effect, thai, if it should be ever desirable to take Que- 
bec, it could, at arty time, be easily done, in two nrionlhs, aithc 'point 
of the bayonet. Surely such a remark i? indecent, with respect to a 
people, with whom we are now in amity ; and, to any one who 
has ev«r seen Quebec, it appears superlatively ridiculous, and on- 
ly exposes us to contempt : an effort to take the moon ai the 
jpoini of the buyonel, would be almost equally ratiormi, 

24* 



278 TOF2 BETWi^HS HJL&TrOK.D A«il> qCE^£.C« 



GEOLOGICAL RUMARkS. 

The limited opportunities which I have eojoyed, 
of examinine the cec^ogy of this ricinity, hare led, 
rather to isokted, than to connected obsenrations. 
It has not been in my power to ascertain the bear- 
log and relations of these &cts, and thb I regret the 
more, as it is probable diat interesting results would 
be obtained, by a more extended and connected 
surrev. 

In s[>eakin«c of the oMHitb of the Chaadiere rirer, 
I have ah^ady observed, that greywacke forms the 
di^ on the eastern side. It has nerer before faCefi 
to my loi, to observe this rock on so great a scale . 
It occurs in a schistose form, at the £dls of the 
Chaadiere, and constitutes the principal part of the 
barrier, orer which the torrent is precipitated. 

On the road from Point Leri to the Chaadiere 
river, and for several miles before we arrire at the 
kner, vast ledsres of common srevwacke, rise above 
the surface of the ground, and form a coolinued 
chain of rocks, of a ver}- peculiar physiognomy, and 
very different £rom those rocks, with which I have 
been most familiar. This greywacke is of a most 
indubitable character, and varies from coarse to fine 
grained ; in the coarsest kind, the individual por* 
tioas are not larger than peas« and I have observed 
a very fine grained kind, with which they pave some 
i^f the stre€t^ in Quebec : its gfain is so smalk as to 



TOCm •ETWEES RiL«TrOmi> AXD qCXBEC. 27S 

be tkiK>>t trapei>cepubie. I did not leani wiience 
k is broQ^t. 

At PoiDl Levi. i::e r?ii ? : ::;::. .: :> 
Ac rirer's dice, is ciii \v~ii. -■ 

difi of slate, rery ''~'£' ' — 

ed, aad contmiaiBs; i 

peired to me like that of tbe tnxiatioB das^; ^ut 
mv examinaidQa was reiy hasrr and slight. 

Ii is vefy proMile tfaat this fomutioo exttSMb 
■Bda* ihe bed of the nrer , aod subsUntiaOj up- 
peais ^sin m tbe precipioes of Qoebec, whidi I 
ibiBid an ojpportiiintj to esanuBe with sone atten- 

tXMI. 

TIk oaaie of Cape IHtmoao, is deciTed 6001 
ibe htit, that vhat the coauofm pe<^le ef^enr where 
caD dimmomds^ or, ia other wonls rock ciysials are 
^Msid in this rock and at its foot. 

I Tcalked around these precipices, with mj hant- 
«eff in my hand, and ohscnred the c^^als in dieir 
phces ; they occjt in reins, in ai^fllke or slate, 
a^oo* with crysnlized carbooat of lime. I passed 
thnmgh the Hope saie, ee the nor& east, and de- 
scended the ol^que road, which leads to the loirer 
viWB ; this street is, in a manner^ est oat of tbe 
101^ strata, and I had Tery good f^poitonaies 
to ohsenre them; I continoed ray e^Laminalioo 
aBOond at the foot of the precipices beyond Cape 
DiaoKMid, and ahnost to the plans of AbiahaB. 

Tbe lbrti6catioBS of Qoebec^ stand pnndpa}- 
ly upon, and are composed chie£j of slaie roci 



280 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

and of the fetid limestone ; the slate is high- 
ly inclined, and is sometimes remarkably twis- 
ted and irregular in its arrangement ; the colour is 
dark — almost black, and it is often fetid when 
struck. This is explained by its association with 
compact fetid limestone, which abounds in many 
parts of these ledges, and is replete with veins of 
w^hite or slightly coloured calcareous spar — some- 
times fibrous in its structure and sometimes distinct- 
ly crystalized. I observed the same rocks appear- 
ing in the upper town, in various places, and espe- 
cially where they were cutting a drarn near the 
prison. Dr. Wright, the Inspector General of 
Hospitals at Quebec, was kind enough to shew me 
a collection, which he is forming, of the rocks and 
minerals of the country, and among them were a 
good many specimens from Upper Canada. I was 
much gratified to see such a beginning in Quebec, 
and from the zeal and intelligence of Dr. Wright 
and of Dr. Bigsby* of the same department — may 
we not hope that w^e shall become much more ex- 
tensively informed than now, as to the mineralogy 
and geology of the Canadas ? 

The very highly inclined position, sometimes al- 
most vertical, and the contorted structure of the 
slate of Quebec — with the abundance of perfectly 
limpid quartz crystals, occasionally an inch in 
length, that are sprinkled between the layers of 

•♦ This summer acting with the commissioners of boundaries on 
the great lakes. 



« 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND H^EBEC 281 

slate, giving it often an elegant appearance, seem to 
forbid our regarding it as secondary, notwithstand- 
ing its association with the black, compact, fetid 
limestone, and its being itself (occasionally at least) 
fetid, on percussion. I am told, that both the slate 
and the limestone, as well as strata of wacke, (grey- 
wacke ?) are subordinate to gneiss mountains, which 
run east south-east, and east north-east, dipping 
southerly at a very elevated angle. On the whole, 
as the slate is the prevailing rock and as the region 
on the other side of the St. Lawrence, is decidedly 
a transition formation, I am inclined to refer the 
rock of Quebec to the same class. The crystals 
of quartz were formerly more abundant, and proba- 
bly, more beautiful, than at present. 

I found numbers however, that were not only 
transparent and beautiful, but crystalized all around. 
As I was hammering upon a rock, to which I had 
climbed, so far up one of the precipices, that I was 
above the chimnies of the houses, in the contiguous 
parts of the lower town, a man came running out, 
and w^ith a French accent, and much vehement ges- 
ture and expostulation-, conjured me to desist, un- 
less I meant to bury him and his house in ruins, by 
causing the rocks to fail. I saw no danger, as the 
rocks appeared tolerably firm, but of course desist- 
ed, and came down. Indeed, so large a number of 
the houses in the lower town are built against the 
foot of the precipice, or very near it, that the rocks 
k)ok as if they might at any time fall and crush 



282 TCrUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC, 

them ; it would seem as if they must of course do 
so, should any of them give way. We were in- 
formed that a great mass fell, recently, and much 
endangered many houses, hut happily missed them ; 
,^ne house is said to have been crushed last winter, 
but I did not hear that any life was lost. 

I examined the rocks on the plains of Abraham, 
and particularly near where General Wolfe died, 
for there was an open quarry at that place ; they 
were slate of the same description with the preci- 
pices, at Cape Diamond, and I observed no other 
on the plains, and none in the rocks of the town, 
hut slate and the fetid limestone ; these two stones 
are almost exclusively employed in building, and 
the walls, as already observed, are constructed prin- 
cipally of them. 

DEATH OF GENERAL MONTGOIVIERY. 

Every American, on visiting Quebec, of course, 
inquires for the place, where Montgomery and his 
associates fell. This question I proposed many 
times, without being able to obtain a satisfactory an- 
swer, till, in my miner-alogical visit to the lower 
town, in which I knew that the event occurred, I 
repeated my inquiries, till I ascertained the street, 
which, as described by historians, passes at the 
foot of Cape Diamond. 

Many persons in Quebec, know little or nothing 
»f the event, and many more feel no interest in the 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 283 

topic. I inquired in vain, at several houses and 
shops, within a few hundred yards of the place, till 
at last, I was so happy as to find an individual, who 
appeared to be perfectly acquainted with the whole 
transaction, and from the precision and distinctness of 
his story, and the clear views he had of the ground, 
and of the event, I have no doubt that his informa- 
tion, as to the place, was correct. He was confident 
that he shewed me the exact spot where the barrier 
stood, from which the fatal shot was fired, and the 
precise place where Montgomery and his companions 
were cut down. The place is immediately under Cape 
Diamond, and was, at thai time, as it is now, a very 
narrow pass, between the foot of the impending pre- 
cipice, and the shore ; vessels then weve moored to 
rings fixed in the rock, some of which rings still re- 
main, although wharves have been since constructed 
at the water's edge ; now there is a road just wide 
enough for a cart ; it has been cut out of the solid 
rock. The American camp was on the plains of 
Abraham. Four points of attack were agreed on — 
two feints against the walls of the upper town, one 
at St. John's gate, and the other near the citadel^ 
w'hile two real assaults, were to be directed against 
two other points, both in the lower town, but situ- 
ated on opposite sides. 

General Arnold led a party from the plains of 
Abraham, around by the river Charles, and assault- 
ed the lower town on that side. In the mean time, 
General Montgomery, approached under Cape 
Diamond. 



2S4 TOTR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

The pass at the foot of Cape Diamond, was 
probably, then much narrower and more difficult 
than at present. The attempt was made at five 
o'clock, on the morning of Dec. 31, 1775, in the 
midst of a Canadian winter, and of a violent snow 
storm, and of darkness. The path, narrow and dif- 
ficult at best, was then so much obstructed by enor- 
mous masses of ice, piled on each other, as 
to render the %vay almost impassable.^ Mont- 
gomery's party were therefore obliged to proceed 
in a narrow file, till they reached a picketted block 
house, which formed the first barrier. The Gene- 
ral assisted with his own hands, in cutting down 
and removing the pickets, and the Canadian guard, 
stationed for its defence, having thrown away their 
arms, fled, after a harmless random fire. The 
next barrier was much more formidable ; it was a 
small battery, whose cannon were loaded with grape 
shot, and as General Montgomery, with Captains 
Cheesman and ?vIacpherson, the latter of whom was 
his aid, and others of the bravest of his party, were 
pressing forward towards this barrier — a dis- 
charge of grape shot killed the General, and most of 
those near his person, and terminated the assault on 
that side of the town. It is said that this second 
barrier had also been abandoned, but that one or 
two persons returning to it, seized a slow match, 
and applied it to the gun, when the advancing par- 
ty were not more than forty yards from it. This 

* Marshall. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOHD AND QUEBEC. 265 

occurrence has been sometimes difFereiitiy related. 
Some American gentlemen who were at Quebec 
about sixteen years since, saw a man, who asserted 
*hat he was the person who touched off the cannon, 
and what is very remarkable, he was a New-Eng- 
lander. He related, that the barrier w^as abandon- 
ed, and the party who had been stailoned at it, 
were in full flight ; but as it occurred to him, that 
there was a loaded cannon, he turned, and discharg- 
ed it at random, and then ran. This anecdote I 
had from one of the gentlemen who conversed with 
this man. 

That there was some such occurrence, appears 
probable, and the following circumstances, having a 
similar bearing, were related to me by the person 
who shewed me this fatal ground. The spot may 
be known at the present moment, by its being some- 
what farther up the river, than the naval depot, where 
great numbers of heavy cannon are now lying. 
The battery stood on the first gentle declivity, be- 
yond this pile of cannon, and the deaths happened 
on the level ground, about forty yards still farther on. 
My informant stated, that the people in the block 
house, as he called it, loaded their cannon over 
night, and retired to rest. It so happened, (and it 
was perfectly accidental) that a Captain of a vessel 
in the port, lodged in the block house that night. 
He was an intemperate man, half delirious even 
wlien most sober, and never minded any one, or 
'vaa much listened to by others. Early on the fatal 

25 



286 TOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

mornjng, before it was light, he exclaimed, all of a 

sudden — " they are coming, I s r they are 

coming !" no one regarded him, but he got the iron 
rods, which they used to touch off the cannon, 
heated them, and fired the pieces. 

Immediately, rockets were seen to fly into the 
air, which were signals to the party of Arnold, that 
all was lost. When light returned. General Mont- 
gomery, his aids, and many others, in the whole, 
twenty-seven, (as he stated,) were found either" 
dead or grievously wounded. 

Thus, I have had the melancholy satisfaction of 
seeing both where Wolfe and Montgomery fell. 
Had the latter succeeded, his enterprise would have 
been regarded as more gallant than even that of 
Wolfe. 

Probably the situation of the defences was very 
different then from w^hat it is now ; at present, such 
an attempt would be perfectly desperate, and could 
deserve no name but rashness. 

The memory of the transaction appears, in a great 
measure, to have passed by, at Quebec, and I can 
even conceive that in twenty years more, it may 
be difficult to have the place, accurately desig- 
nated. It would be easy now, with permission of 
the government, to have an inscription, cut upon 
the neighbouring precipice of rock, which is not 
six feet from the place, and I presume, were the 
request properly preferred, no objection would be 
made^ 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 287 

*' Ail eiimity to Montgomery expired with his 
life, and the respect to his private character pre- 
vailed over all other considerations ; his dead body 
received every possible mark of distinction from 
the victors, and was interred in Quebec, with all the 

military honom-s due to a brave soldier." " The 

most powerful speakers in the British Parliament, 
displayed their eloquence in praising his virtues and 
lamenting his fate. A great orator and veteran fel- 
low soldier of his, in the late war, shed abundance 
of tears, whilst he expatiated on their past friend- 
ship and participation of service in that season of 
enterprise and glory. Even the minister extolled 
his virtues."* 

During our visit to the citadel, the place of his 
interment was pointed out to us. His bones (as is 
well known) were recently transferred to New- 
York, more than forty years after their original in- 
terment, and now lie buried, contiguous to the mon- 
umen., erected by Congress, in front of St. Paul's 
Church. 

GENERAL ARNOLD'S PARTY 

In the existing accounts of the attack made by 
General Arnold's division, it is not easy for a person 
who is unacquainted with Quebec, to understand, 
precisely where the scene of operations lies, nor 
how there was to be a co-operation with General 
Montgomery. Perhaps the following remarks may 
* Annual Register, for 1776. 



288 TOUa BETWEEN HAHTFORD.AND QUEBEC. 

have a tendency to render this scene intelh'gible, 
■and especially to those who may seek for informa- 
tion on the spot. 

General Arnold's party entered through the suburb 
of St. Rooh. which lies on the river St. Charles, north 
west of Quebec, without the walls, and is an appen- 
dage of the lower town. Having been obliged to 
abandon the only cannon which they had, they pass- 
ed, through the street St. Roch, which leads in a 
south west direction, towards the wall, and then 
turning to the left, by the Intendant's Palace, pro- 
jeeeded on, towards the St. Lawrence, parallel to 
the city wall, and at a small distance from it. Here 
it was, that during a march of nearly half a mile, 
the party, with very little injury, sustained the 
6re on their right flank, from the walls. With" 
out regarding this heavy fire, they pressed on 
towards the enemy's first barrier, which was in 
the street called Saint des Matelots.* This street 
commences in the lower town on the St. Law-* 
vence, a few hundred yards from the passage 
up mountain street ; passing down that street, and 
turning to the left or north, we come to that of the 
Matelots, (or sailors, this being the part of the 
town which they frequent) this street runs in a 
strait direction, for some way, and then turns sud- 
denly, by a very narrow path, only twelve feet 
v/ide, and cut out of the rock, around that angle of 

• See Colonet Boiichette's plan of Quebec, in his tnpocrrnphical 
itiap oT T./>vvei Canada. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 289 

the precipice, and of the grand battery, which looks 
down the bay of Quebec ; it then proceeds west 
without turning. At the time of the attack, this 
passage, around the foot of the precipice, was 
exceedingly narrow, and much obstructed by 
cakes of ice. Coming from the suburb of St.. 
Roch, the first barrier occurred, before arriving at 
the angle of the street, and of the precipice ; the 
second after passing it. Arnold being severely 
wounded, in the approach to the first barrier, it was 
stormed and carried, by Captain Morgan of the 
Virginia riflemen, although it was defended by two 
twelve pounders, loaded with grape shot ; one of 
these pieces was discharged, but killed only a single 
man, and before th-e second was fired, the barrier was 
passed, by scaling ladders, and its defenders fled. It 
was still dark — a violent snow storm prevailed, and 
Morgan and the other officers, being ignorant of the 
streets and of their defences, did not attempt the oth- 
er barrier, till the day dawned. They then turned the 
angle of the street, which brought them in front of the 
St. Lawrence and of the next barrier, which last was 
entirely invisible till they had made this turn, when, 
they were instantly exposed lo a tremendous fire of 
musketry from the barrier, and from the houses on 
both sides of the street ; a few of the bravest mount- 
ed the barrier with ladders, but saw on the other 
side, double rows of soldiers, with their guns fixed 
on the ground, and presenting nothing but points of 
bayonets to receive them, should they leap to the 

25 * 



290 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

ground. Their retreat was in the meantime cut off, 
by a party of two hundred men, who, with several 
field pieces, issued from the palace gate, in their 
rear, and thus they were completely surrounded — 
the unconquered barrier was in front — the city wall 
and precipice on one side, and the St. Lawrence 
and St. Charles on the other. 

It was a most daring attack. 

I passed several times through the street of the 
Matelots, and wonder that any of the party should 
have escaped death. 

We can now understand, how the party of Mont- 
gomery and that of Arnold, would, if successful, 
have co-operated. At the time of their repulse, 
they were making directly towards one another, and 
but for that event, would have met in mountain 
street, and probably have attempted the Pres- 
cot gate in concert ; or possibly, being in pos- 
session of the lower town, they might have assail- 
ed the Palace gate which Arnold had passed, 
after leaving the suburb of St. Roch, At pres- 
ent, either of these attempts would appear prepos- 
terous, and it would seem that they could scarcely 
have proved succesful then, unless the enemy had 
been taken by surprise. Judge Marshall's inter- 
esting account* of this assault will be perfectly in- 
telligible, if it be remembered that the scenes of 
both tragedies are in the lower town, and the catas- 
trophes of both in front of the precipice, bordering 
on the St. Lawrence. Montgomery fell on the ex- 

* Life of Washington, Vol. ii, p. 332. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 291 

treme left, as represented in the vignette — the 
repulse of Arnold's division was on the extreme right, 
and none of either party entered the upper town, 
till Arnold's troops, having, (after they were sur- 
rounded, and all hope of escape was at an end,) 
fought for three hours, finally surrendered. Rarely 
has more personal hravery been displayed, than in 
this transaction. 



CASTLE OF ST. LOUIS AND THE LATE DUKE OF 
RICHMOND. 

The situation, and dimensions of this building, 
have been already mentioned, (page 212.) On its 
scite, and on the contiguous ground, the French 
had a fortress, called St. Louis ; it covered four 
acres, and formed nearly a parallelogram. The 
present castle is a part of the curtain, connecting 
two of the bastions of the fort, or, at least, it is 
in the same place, for, I am not certain that it has 
not been rebuilt, since the destruction of the ancient 
fortress. 

This castle had been suffered to go to decay, 
but, in 1808, seven thousand pounds were voted for 
its repair and embellishment, and an additional sura 
at a subsequent period. Sir James Craig first oc- 
cupied it, after this resuscitation. 

The entire establishment forms a square, of which 
the present castle is the front, and the other parts 
are occupied by public offices, ball rooms, he. and 



292 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 

there are stables, a guard-house, and a riding room, 
besides extensive gardens.'^ 

Without introduction, we went to the castle of St. 
Louis, and, as strangers, preferred our request to 
see the interior. The sentinel, and the servants, 
gave us a ready admission. We were civilly con- 
ducted through its various apartments. They are 
numerous, but generally plain ; some are large and 
handsome, but they are inferior, in elegance, to the 
rooms in many private houses. The furniture, with 
some exceptions, is far from being splendid. Some 
articles are rich, but many are hardly worthy of the 
distinguished place which they occupy. 

Among the curiosities of the place, is a famous 
round table, or rather half of a round table, with a 
circular place cut in the middle. This, it seems, is 
occupied by the host, when he drinks wine with 
his friends, who are arranged around him. That 
there may be no impediment to conviviality, not 
even the usual trouble of circulating the bottle, 
there is an ingenious machine of brass, shaped 
a little like a sextant, which can, at pleasure, be 
attached to the table, or removed ; the center 
embraces a pivot, on which it moves, and the peri- 
phery of the circle, sustains the bottle ; the ma- 
chine revolves in the plane of a horizontal circle, 
in other words, on the circular table ; this is effected 
merely by touching a spring ; the contrivance is cer- 
tainly as important as it is original. 

"^ Boachette. 



TOUR BETWEEN MAJRTFORD AND QUEBEC. 293 

I am not certain, however, to whom the honor of 
the invention belongs, lor we were assured in the 
castle, that the furniture descends, not as public, 
but as private property, and is paid for by each suc- 
cessive governor. This, (if correctly stated,) does 
not correspond with the usual munificence and dig- 
nity of the British government. 

The duke of Richmond, the late Governor-Gene- 
ral of the Canadas, is stated not to have been rich ; 
indeed, in Canada, the remark is made on all hands, 
that he was poor. Still, we were repeatedly assured, 
that the duke's plate, which was lately sent back to 
England, was insured at forty thousand pounds, a 
snug fortune in itself, for a private man, if not for a 
nobleman. 

We were introduced into the duke's private study 
and library ; the latter was not extensive, although 
the books were good ; we saw also his bed room 
and bed, and, in short, all the apartments of the 
family. 

We asked for some personal relic of the duke, 
and they presented to us a thermometrical register, 
kept by him, during the first seven months of the 
present year, and the first half of August, ending 
with the time, (I presume,) when he set forward on 
the journey, during which he died. The register is 
said to be in his own hand writing. As it is not of- 
ten that we obtain a document respecting Canadian 
temperature, and, as this is interesting, on account of 
its origin, I will present an abstract of it, in the form 
of results. 



294 TOUll BETWKEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 



Average tempera- 
A. D. ttire at 

1819. noon,. 

Jan. 17° ab. o'jan. 14 



Coldest day! Hottest day 

at noon, i at noon. 

6^ bel. OlJan. 23 4lCab.O 



Feb. 25 
3Iarch 25 
April 43 
May 
June 
July 
Ano^. 
(first 15 
days) 78 



5h 
66 
75 



.a 



jFeb. 24 13 
iMarch 6 2 
April S 32 
May 25 36 
June 1 52 
July 28 65 



The average of 
the three 



Aug. 8 72 

' winter, ^ 
spring, S- 
summer, \ 



ab. 

a 

(( 
a 
a 



a 



I Feb 9 42 
iMarch 21 37 
'April 29 64 
72 
90 
84 



May 4 
June G 

jjuly 24 

Aug. 7 
and 10 



86 



months 



C2i 
^51 



22^ above 
js <; 55 " 
(To 



In January, the thermometer, at noon, on the 5th^ 
^th, and 29th, was 4^ below 0. 

I have thrown away fractions of a degree. 

The thermometers, with which the observation? 
were made, still hung in the room. 

It is well known that the duke died of hydropho- 
bia ; and, it seems impossible to obtain in Canada, 
nay, even in Quebec, and in the palace itself, a cor- 
rect account of the circumstances that attended the 
calamity. As the subject, being of very recent oc- 
currence, has been much spoken of in our presence, 
and in all circles, I trust it will not be indelicate 
w^ith respect to the friends of the deceased, or to 
the people recently under his government, if I pro- 
ceed to repeat some of the statements which we 
havo heard. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 295 

The person who shewed us the castle, and who, 
as we were informed, belonged to the duke's house- 
hold, gave us the following account. It seem? 
•hat the duke had a little dog, to which he was im- 
moderately attached ; the dog's name was Blucher, 
and Blucher, we were told, was caressed with 
such fondness, that he slept with his master, and 
•as affectionately addressed, by the appellation of 
• ray dear Blucher." 

This idolized animal was bitten in the neck 
oy another dog, afterwards ascertained to be mad — 
ijie rencounter took place in the coml-yard of 
the palace, and the duke, in whose presence it 
occurred, full of compassion for his poor dog, 
caught him up in his arras, and applied his own hps 
to the part bitten ; others, as well as this man, have 
xuformed us, that it was thus the duke imbibed the 
poison, some say through a cut in his lip, made by 
his razor, or through an accidental crack. The 
duke continued to sleep with the dog, which had not 
then, however, exhibited signs of madness. 

There are other persons, and, among them, some 
highly respectable men, attached to the army, v.ho 
deny the above, and say that the duke was bitten 
by a rabid fox, on board the steam-boat ; the fox 
and dog, it is said, were quarrelling, and the duke 
interfered, to part them. Others assert, that the 
duke put his hand into the cage, where the fox was 
confined ; and all who impute the event to the fox, 
declare that tlie hurt, which was on a finger, was so 



296 TOWR BETWEEN HARTFOKD AND Q,UEBEC. 

extremely slight, as not to be noticed at the time, 
nor thought of afterwards, till the hydrophobia came 
on. 

* At the mansion house in Montreal, where the 
duke always lodged, when in that, city, we were 
assured by a respectable person in the house, 
that the duke certainly got his poison from his 
own dog ; that this story was told him by the 
servants of the duke, when they returned with 
the dead body ; and, what is more, that he saw the 
letter which the duke wrote to his ow^n daughter, 
the lady Mary, after his symptoms, had manifested 
themselves, and when he w^as in immediate expec- 
tation of death. In this letter, the duke reminded 
his daughter of the incident which was related to us 
at the palace. Which ever story is true, it would 
appear that the duke came by his death in conse- 
quence of his attachment to his dog, and, surely 
never was a valuable life more unhappily sacrifi- 
ced.* 

The duke was up the country, near the Ottawa 
river, when the fatal symptoms appeared, but he 
persevered in his expedition — travelled thirty miles 
on foot, the day before he died — concealed his com- 
plaiat, and opposed it as long as possible — wrote 

* I have never had it in my power lo see (he official arcouiils of 
the duke's death, as published in England. I am (old they differ 
in some measure, fiom ilie preceding statements, but I cannot (ell 
in vvliaf particulars. AH 1 can say, is, thai I give the reports as I 
beard 'hern 



TOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,UEBEC;. 297 

his final farewell to the lady Mary, and the other 
children, in a long letter, which contained particular 
directions as to the disposition of the family — and 
met death, we must say, at least, like a soldier, for 
a soldier he had been the greater part of his life. 

His complaint manifested itself, in the first in- 
stance, by an uneasiness at being upon the water, in 
the tour which he was taking into the interior, and 
they were obliged to land him. A glass of wine, 
presented to him, produced his spasms, although it 
is said, that, by covering his eyes with one hand, 
and holding the glass with the other, he succeeded 
in swallowing the wine ; but afterwards, he could 
bear no hquids, and even the lather used in shaving, 
distressed him. 

In the intervals of his spasms, he was wonderfully 
cool and collected — gave every necessary order to 
his servants, and to the officers of his suite — oppos- 
ed the sending for a physician, from Montreal, be- 
cause, he said, the distance from it to Richmond, 
where he died, being eighty miles, he should be a 
dead man, before the physician could arrive, and 
seemed to contemplate the dreadful fate before him, 
with the heroism, at least, of a Martyr. 

In his turns of delirium, instead of barking and 

raving, as such patients are said usually to do, he 

employed himself in arranging his imaginary troops, 

forming a line of battle, (for he had been present at 

26 



2t9S TOUK between HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

many battles, and, last of all, at Waterloo"^ itself,) 
and gave particular commands to a Captain in the 
navy, who was not present, but whom he called by 
name, to fire — and the command was often, and ve- 
hemently repeated. In a soliloquy, overheard but 
a few minutes before his death, he said, " Charles 
Lenox, duke of Richmond ! — die like a man ! — 
Shall it be said, that Richmond w^as afraid to meet 
death — no, never !" 

I know not what were his grace's views on top- 
ics, more i)nportant at such a crisis, than what our 
fellow men will think of us ; but, there was a degree 
of grandeur, of the heroic kind, in finding a military 
nobleman, cool and forecasting, in contemplation of 
one of the most awful of all deaths, and, even in his 
moments of delirium, like king Lear, raving in a 
style of sublimity. 

We w^ere informed, that, even in death, he did 
not forget Bkicher, but ordered that he should be 
caged, and the event awaited. The dog was carried 
away with the family, when they sailed for Eng- 
land, although he had previously began to snap and 
fly at people. 

The duke appears to be remembered with af- 
fection ; he was regarded as a very warm friend 
to Canada, and all here, believe that he had its in- 
terests much at heart, and was actively engaged in 
promoting them. 

* I was informed by a British officer, that the duke was not ac- 
tually in the bloody field, but somewhere in the immediate viciri- 
ity. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 299 

His family, consisting principally of daughters, 
young and unmarried, with very slender resources, 
and in a foreign land, received the appaling new's at 
the castle of St. Louis, and soon the sad tidings 
were followed by the breathless body. 

One daughter is married to Sir Peregrine Mait- 
land. Governor of Upper Canada, and the lady Ma- 
ry, the eldest of the remaining daughters, is spoken 
of (although without any intended disparagement to 
the other children,) in the highest terms. We saw 
fire screens, prettily inscribed with verses, and orna- 
mented by her hand ; and the person who attended 
us, gave each of us a walking stick, cut by the 
duke's own hand, in his last excursion. There was 
a large bundle of them done up by strings, and it 
seems it was the duke's custom, when he saw a 
stick that pleased him, to stop and cut it. 

Sir Peregrine Maitland, and his lady and family, 
lodged in the same house w^ith us, at Montreal, and 
appeared plain, unassuming people. While there, 
they received the calls of the principal military and 
civil officers, and of the most distinguished private in- 
dividuals 5 among the rest, came the veteran soldier 
of Wolfe, dressed in his scarlet uniform, and in the 
fashion of other days. 

Before leaving the palace, we wrote, by request, 
our names and residence, a requisition frequently 
made in similar places in Europe. 

From the gallery, in front of the castle of St. 
Louis, we had a most magnificent view of the river, 



300 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

and of the siuTOunding country, while the lower tows 
lay directly at our feet, but was rather a blemish, 
than a beauty, in the prospect. 

The castle is, at its foundation, more than two 
hundred feet higher than the river, and in summer, 
must be a most charming cool spot, but in winter, a 
very bleak one. 

The duchess of Richmond is in Enscland, and 
has never been in America. 



GENERAL REMARKS Oi\ QUEBEC. 

A stranger's residence of a few days, in a foreigL 
city, is hardly sufficient to give him any thing more 
than general views. Such views, accurately sketch- 
ed, are, however useful, although forming but an 
outline. 

Quebec, at least for an American city, is certain- 
ly a very pecuhar place. 

A military town — containing about twenty thou- 
sand inhabitants — most compactly and permanently 
built — stone its sole material — environed, as to its 
most important parts, by walls and gates — and de- 
fended by numerous heavy cannon — garrisoned by 
troops, having the arms, the costume, the music, 
the discipline of Europe — foreign in language, fea- 
tures, and origin, from most of those whom they 
are sent to defend — founded upon a rock, and, 
in its highest parts, overlooking a great extent 
)f country — between three and four hundred miles 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 301 

from the ocean — In the midst of a great continent — 
and yet displaying fleets of foreign merchantmen, 
in its fine capacious bay — and shewing all the bustle 
of a crowded sea-port — its streets narrow — populous 
and winding up and down almost mountainous de- 
clivities — situated in the latitude of the finest parts 
of Europe — exhibiting in its environs, the beauty of 
an European capital — and yet, in winter, smarting 
with the cold of Siberia — governed by a people, of 
different language and habits, from the mass of the 
population — opposed in religion, and yet leaving 
that population without taxes, and in the full enjoy- 
ment of every privilege, civil and religious ; such 
are some of the most prominent features, which 
strike a stranger in the city of Quebec. 

As to its public buildings, besides the Castle of 
St. Louis, which has been mentioned, there is the 
Hotel Dieu, the Convent of the Ursulines, the Mo- 
nastery of the Jesuits, now used for barracks, the 
Cathedrals, Cathohc and Protestant, the Scotch 
Church, the lower town Chnrch, the Court House, 
the Seminary, the new Goal, and the artillery bar- 
racks : there arc also a Place D'Armes, a Parade, 
and an Esplanade."^ 

The Court House is a modern stone building, 
one hundred and thirty-six feet by forty-four, witii 
a handsome and regular front. 

The Protestant Cathedral is seen in the vignette, 
l?eing farther to the left than any building that has a 
■ Bouolietle 

26* 



302 TOLR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC* 

steeple. This is the handsomest modern building 
in the city ; it is of stone, and is one hundred and 
thirty-six feet long by seventy-five broad ;* it stands 
on ground nearly as high as any in the place, and is 
seen at a great distance. 

The Catholic Cathedral, seen on the right of the 
vignette, is built of stone ; it is two hundred and 
sixteen feet lojag, and one hundred and eight broad. 
It was the first pubhc building that we entered in 
Quebec. We found, as usual in such places, priests 
in attendance, and people at their devotions. The 
building is full of pictures and images, and has a 
venerable and ancient appearance. It can contain 
four thousand people. 

The Seminary was founded in 1663, for ecclesi- 
astical instruction only, but is not now confined to 
that profession, although, according to Colonel Bou- 
chette, its members must be Catholics. 

The building is of stone, forming three sides of a 
square, two hundred and nineteen feet long, and 
one hundred and twenty broad. 

The Hotel Dieu was founded in 1637, for the 
sick poor of both sexes. It includes the convent, 
hospital, church, court-yard, cemetery, and gar- 
dens. The principal building is three hundred and 
eighty-three feet long by fifty broad. This estab- 
lishment, conducted by nuns, is highly commended 
for the humanity, comfort, cleanliness, and good ar- 
rangement which prevail in it. 

"* All tho cliaieuiiions of the public hrnidings are talccn on the 
ani.horitv of Colonel Bouchetle 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, 303 

The Ursuline Convent is a square, whose side is 
one hundred and twelve feet; was founded in 1639 ; 
is devoted to female education, and is conducted 
by nuns. 

The Monastery, or College of the Jesuits, now 
used for barracks, is three stories high, and forms a 
parallelogram of two hundred and twenty-four feet 
by two hundred. It w^as a fine estabhshment in 
the time of the Jesuits, and judging from some of 
the apartments which I saw, it contains very com- 
fortable accommodations for officers and troops. 

I w^as particularly struck with the new Goal, 
which is a handsome structure of stone, standing on 
very elevated ground ; it is one hundred and sixty 
feet long by sixty-eight broad, and three stories 
high : the cost was over fifteen thousand pounds. 

The Bishop's Palace is one hundred and forty- 
seven feet by one hundred and eighteen, and stands 
in a very commanding situation, near the grand bat- 
tery. It is now occupied by the Provincial Parlia- 
ment, and for various public offices, and an annuity 
is paid to the Catholic Bishop. It is said to be in 
a ruinous condition. 

The artillery barracks were built by the French 
in 1750. They extend five hundred and twenty- 
seven feet by forty, and contain accommodations 
for the artillery troops of the garrison, work-shops, 
store-houses, &tc. and every variety of small arms 
for twenty thousand men, which are always kept fit 
tor immediate use, and are fancifully arranged. 



304 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

Quebec is well paved with large stones, firmly fix- 
ed. Most of its streets are narrow ; the principal 
ones are thirty-two feet wide, but most of them on- 
ly from twenty-four to twenty-seven. The houses 
are of very unequal height, and generally have high 
sloping roofs, to enable them to sustain the ice and 
snow. The covering of the roofs with tin, or even 
with sheet iron, is by no means general ; most of 
them are still covered with shingles. 

Many of the modern houses, especially on the 
highest ground, are very handsome, and in the mod- 
ern style, and some new ones are in progress. 

The market place is, in its largest dimensions, 
two hundred and fifty feet by one hundred and six- 
ty-five. I saw it on Saturday morning, which is the 
best time, and never wish to see a market better 
supplied with meats, fowl, fish, and vegetables, and 
every thing in very good order. 

The prices we are told are not high. 

There are a great many dogs in Quebec, and 
they are not kept merely for parade : they are made 
to work, and it is not uncommon in Quebec, to see 
dogs harnessed to little carts, and drawing meat, 
merchandise, and even wood, up and down the hills; 
they pull with all their little might, and seem pleas- 
ed with their employment. 



Quebec was founded on the 3d of July, 1608, by 
Samuel de Cbamplain. Geographer to the Kinjr. 



TOUR BETWEEN HAE,TFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 305 

His commencement was on Cape Diamond, on the 
scite of an Indian village called Stadacone. 

In 1629 it was taken by the English, but esteem- 
ed of so little value, that it was restored in 1632. 
It was in the hands of private adventurers or tra- 
ding companies till 1663, when it was made a royal 
government, and became a regular and important 
colony. 

In 1690, Sir William Phipps, with a great arma- 
ment from Boston, attacked and cannonaded Que- 
bec, and landed an army, but was repulsed, with 
2;reat loss and disgrace. 

In 1712 the attempt was again made, by an Eng- 
lish fleet under Sir Hovenden Walker, who was cast 
away in the St. Lavv/rence, and lost seven of his 
largest ships and three thousand men, while General 
Nicholson, who v/as coming with an army by the 
way of Montreal, was obliged to retreat. 

In 1720 Charlevoix visited Canada, and it is in- 
reresting to compare his account of the appearance 
of Quebec, and of its environs, with its present situa- 
tion. It will be found that even then, not only the 
outlines of the place were formed, but that they 
were filled up to some extent. It then contained 
about seven thousand souls. 

He remarks, that it stands on the most navigable 
riv^er in the universe, and that there is no other city in 
the known world, a hundred and twenty leagues from 
the sea, whose harbour is capable of containing one 
hundred ships of the hne. He observ(.s that, as Paris 



306 TOUlR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

was, for a long time, inferior to what Quebec then 
was, he anticipates the time when the latter will be 
equal to the former ; when " as far as the eye can 
reach, (on the St. Lawrence,) nothing w^ill be seen 
but towns, villas, and pleasure houses" — " when the 
shores shall discover fine meadows, fruitful hills, 
and fertile fields" — " when the whole road shall be 
faced with magnificent quays, and the port surround- 
ed with superb edifices, and when we shall see three 
or four hundred ships lying in it loaden with riches." 
All that Charlevoix anticipated a century ago, is 
not yet accomplished, but no contemptible part of 
it is already realized. He speaks of the beauty of 
the prospect from Cape Diamond, and of the purity 
of its air, and says, " you sometimes find a sort of 
diamonds on it finer than those of Alen^on" — " I 
have seen some of them, (says he,) full as well cut, 
as if they had come from the hand of the most ex- 
pert workman," and adds, that they have become 
very scarce. It is scarcely necessary to say, that 
he alludes to the crystals of quartz. He speaks of 
the church as being roofed with slate, and he says 
that it is the only building in all Canada which has 
this advantage, all the others being covered with 
shingles. He mentions the Governor's residence in 
the fort, and describes the front of it as having a 
gallery, exactly as the Castle of St. Louis standing 
in the same place, has now. He mentions the Jes- 
uit's buildings, the Hotel Dieu, the Intendant's Pal- 
ace, the Seminary or College, the Bishop's Palace, 



TOUH BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 30t 

and various other buildings and institutions, which 
evince great intelhgence and vigor, in the early 
French population. 

He says the tides rise twenty-five feet at the time 
of the equinox. This corresponds very nearly with 
the present estimate, which is from twenty-three to 
twenty-four feet, and seventeen or eighteen for com- 
mon tides : the greatest depth of water is twenty- 
eight fathoms, and he states it generally at twenty- 
five. The great rise of the tides at Quebec, causes 
at present a necessity for very high quays : when 
we landed from the steam boat, we ascended on a 
plank not less than fifty feet long, and laid from the 
boat to the wharf so as to form a rather steep in- 
clined plane. 

Charlevoix commends the society in Quebec ; 
he says, you find in it "the best company, and 
nothing is wanting that can possibly contribute to 
form an agreeable society" — that there are " rich 
merchants, or such as live as if they were 50," and 
" assemblies full as brilliant as any where." He 
states, that " they play at cards, or go abroad on 
parties of pleasure, in the summer time, in calashes 
or canoes ; in winter, in sledges upon the snow, or 
on skaits upon the ice" — that " the Creoles of Can- 
ada draw in with their native breath an air of free- 
dom, which makes them very agreeable in the com- 
merce of life, and no where in the world is the 
French language spoken in greater purity, there 
being not the smallest foreign accent in the pronun- 
ciation. 



J30S TOUR BETWEEN HAKTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

He says, that although there are no rich men, 
every body puts on as good a face as possible ; and 
that they make good cheer, provided they are able 
to be at the expense of fine clothes ; if not, in order 
to be able to appear well dressed, they retrench in 
the article of the table : that they have fine stature 
and complexions, a gay and sprightly behaviour, with 
great sweetness and politeness of manners, and that 
the least rusticity, either in language or behaviour, is 
utterly unknown, even in the remotest and most 
distant parts. It is surprising to see how little 
change there has been in these respects after the 
lapse of a century, and after sixty years of subjec- 
tion to a foreign power. 

Charlevoix's comparisons between the Canadi- 
ans and the New-Englanders are amusing : he re- 
marks, that in New-England and the other British 
Provinces " there prevails an opulence which they 
are utterly at a loss to use ; and in New France, a 
poverty hid by an air of being in easy circumstan- 
ces, which seems not at all studied." " The Eng- 
lish planter amasses wealth, and never makes any 
superfluous expense ; the French inhabitant again 
enjoys what he has acquired, and often makes a 
parade of what he is not possessed of." 

I will finish these citations by one which is in- 
deed most remarkable, and accounts for the dread- 
ful scenes of massacre and invasion, which the^ng- 
iish colonies so often and so long experienced from 
«he French. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 309 

" The English Americans, (says Charlevoix,) are 
averse to war, because they have a great deal to 
lose; they take no care to manage the Indians, from 
a behef that they stand in no need of them. The 
French youth, for very different reasons, abominate 
the thoughts of peace, and hve well wnth the na- 
tives, whose esteem they easily gain in time of war, 
and their friendship at all times." 

With respect to the institutions^ of Quebec, most 
of which were founded by the French, the valua- 
ble statistical account of Canada, by Colonel Bou- 
chette, will supply every detail as to the nunneries, 
the hospitals, the college, the churches, catholic and 
protestant, the clergy, and every other important 
particular, which a stranger would desire to learn. 
This work, w^ith its grand topographical map, is 
however, I believe, little known in the United States, 
«nd is rather too expensive for general circulalion.f 

^ After being so full in ray notices of scenery and historical 
events, in tlie vicinity of Quel>ec, n)ore might have been reasona- 
bly expected respecting its, institutions ; the omission was acci- 
dental ; for fear that our fine weather would fall us, we postponed 
these topics till the last, and then left Quebec, several days soonei* 
than we had expected or wished, wiiich deprived us of the op- 
portunity of making other observations. 

t Colonel Bouciiette is highly loyal, and his zeal (commenda- 
ble, without doubt, in the main) perhaps imparts a degree of as- 
perity, to some of his notices of the events of the late warfare, 
on the Canadian frontiers, and of the policy of the American 
government. These things however do not seriously impair the 
value of his great and laborious work, for which he deserves high 
commendation, 

27 



Besides ihe peouiiar, or at icast remarkabie fea- 
uires, which have been sketched, Quebec is certain- 
ly a very respectable city, and one of those places on 
tile American continent, most worthy of the curi- 
osity of an intelliiient stranger. Indeed, to have- 
seen Quebec and Montreal, and the intervening and 
surrounding country, is, in some degree, a substi- 
tute for a visit to Europe. The latitude of Quebec 
is 46^'' 48 39' n. 

THE KJVER e^T LAWRENCE. 

.MontrcaL October 12. — The mighty outlet of 
ihe most magnificent collection of inland waters in 
the world, tlie North American lakes — individually, 
like seas — coUectively, covering the area of an em- 
pire ; already enlivened bv the sails of commerce, 
and recently awed by the thunder of contending 
nav*ies ; bordered by thriving villages and settle- 
ments, and hereafter to be surrounded by populous 
Towns and cities, and countries : associated as tliis 
river is with such realities, and with such anticipa- 
tions, it is impossible to approach tlie St. Lawrence, 
with ordinary feelings, or to view it as merely a 
river of primary magnitude. 

Already, the two great cities of Canada iire erec- 
ted on its borders ; Europe sends her fleets to Que- 
bec, and even to Montreal ; nearly two hundred 
miles of intervening water, are now daily passed be- 
tween tlie cities, by steam boats, some of which are 
as large in tonnage as Indiamen, or sloops of war. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^^UEBEC. 3U 

[t is now, no very difficult task, to be wafted on 
ilie St. Lawrence from Lake Ontario to the Ocean, 
a distance of nearly seven hundred miles, or from 
Niagara, which difters little from one thousand, and 
tlie entire range from Lake Superior, is two thou- 
sand. 

In that part of the St. Lawrence, which, within a 
week, we have now twice passed, there arc fewer 
observations to be made than on many routes much 
less extensive, and on many rivers of much infe- 
rior magnitude. This arises from the great e^amc- 
ness, which prevails along the banks. They ap- 
pear to be very generally alluvial ; extensively they 
are so low that they seem, in many places, hardly 
to form an adequate barrii^r against the occasional 
swelling and overflow of the great river, which they 
limit ; indeed, it is difficult always to convince ones 
9e\i\ that they are not, here and there, actually lower 
than the river ; of rocks, till we come within a few 
miles of Quebec, there are hardly any to be seen, 
and yet it is obvious that there are rocks in the vicin- 
ity, because the houses are often constructed of 
stone ; for many miles from Montreal, on the way 
to Quebec, the banks are little else than damp 
meadows, resembling Holland extremely ; some- 
times the shores recede in natural terraces, and re- 
tiring platforms, placed, one above another, till the 
last visible one forms a high ridge ; at other times, 
precipitous banks, cut down as it were by art, exhibit 
strata of £;ravel and clav and sand — forminc; distinct 



312 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QCEBEC. 

and often variously coloured horizontal layers ; the 
forests are usually removed from the immediate 
margin of the river, and the verdure is in most 
places rich and lively. 

The average width of the river, between Montreal 
and Quebec, appears to be about two miles ; but it 
is extremely irregular ; sometimes it does not ex- 
ceed half a mile, or three fourths of a mile, but 
this is true only near Quebec and at a few other 
places ; at other times, it becomes two, three, or 
more miles wide. I have already mentioned, that 
in the Lake of St. Peter, as it is called, a few mile^; 
above the town of Three Rivers, an expansion of 
the river takes place, so that for more than twenty* 
miles, its breadth is nine or ten miles. 

The current is considerable — probably three 
miles an hour, generally, but in some places it ha? 
apparently, double that force, and the river, instead 
of flowing, as it commonly does, with an unruffled 
surface, becomes perturbed, and hurries along with 
murmurs and eddies, and in a few places, with foam 
and breakers. 

This is particularly the case at the Richelieu 
rapids, fifty miles above Quebec, where the river is 
compressed within half a mile, and the navigable 
part within much less ; numerous rocks, which ap- 
pear to be principally large rolled masses, form, 
when the water is low, as it was w^hen we passed, a 

* Colonel Bouchette states the length at twenty -five miles, but 
he iBcludes that portion which is full of islands 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 313 

terrific reef, and when the river is up, a dangerous 
concealed enemy. Through these rapids, (as was 
mentioned on the passage down,) the steam boats 
dare not go in the night, and the instance in which 
it is said to have been done, was to carry to Quebec, 
the news of the Duke of Richmond's death. The 
speed of the steam boat had, however, been sur- 
passed by that of the land messenger, who had al- 
ready arrived with the gloomy news. At the lower 
end of the town of Montreal, the stream, compress- 
ed by the island of St. Helena, is so impetuous, 
that the steam boats, which everv where else can 
stem the current, are here obliged to anchor, and 
procure the aid of oxen ; four yoke w^ere employ- 
ed, whh a drag rope, to draw^ the Malsham — the 
boat in which we came up to Montreal, through 
this pass ; it is howev^er, not half a mile, that the 
river is so rapid, for after passing this place, 
steam carries the boats on again to their moorings, 
at the upper end of the town. It requires a very 
strong wind to carry vessels with sails against this 
current. I saw some vessels here which enjoyed 
this advantage, and for one hour, I could not per- 
ceive that they made any head way. 

The population on the river is very considerable, 
nearly all the way between the two cities, so that 
on both sides, houses or villages are almost con- 
stantly in view. There are, however, but two 
towns of any magnitude, both of which have been 
mentioned — Sorel, at the moulh of the river of the 

27* 



314 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOKD AND QUEBEC, 

same name, and which connects Lake Champlain 
with the St. Lawrence, forty-five miles below Mon- 
treal, andthe Trois Rivieres or Three Rivers,* half 
way between Quebec and Montreal. This large 
town derives its whimsical name, from the fact that 
the river St. Maurice, which empties here, is divi- 
ded at its mouth, by little islands, into three parts, 
so that there seem to be three rivers instead of one. 

Most of the houses on both banks of the St. 
Lawrence, as well as in the vicinity of Quebec, are 
white, roof and all ; the roofs of houses in Canada, 
being, frequently protected from fire, as well as beau- 
tified, by a white wash of salt and lime or of lime 
only, which is renewed every year. 

There are many villages on the river, some aie 
large and populous, and most of them are furnished 
with pretty, and a few with grand churches ; they 
have from one spire to three, and having generally 
a brilliant covering of tin, both on the roofs and 
spires, they blaze in the sun, and even at the dis- 
tance of miles, dazzle the eyes of the beholder. 
Some other public buildings, and the best private 
houses on the banks, are occasionally covered in 
the same manner. Most of the cottages are only 
one story high, and are small ; but, large and good 
iiouses, appearing like the residences of the seigneurs 
and other country gcndemen, are hardly ever 
out of sight. The banks of the St. Lawrence, thus 
verdant and beautiful from cultivation, and decked 
every where with brilliant white houses, and pretty 
• The tide cea.?es near (bis place. 



TOLtt BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC, 31 i 

villages, impress a traveller very pleasantly; although 
he finds but little variety In the views. 1 have 
omitted to mention, that from the rapids of Rlclie- 
llcu, going down the river, the banks almost imme- 
diately become considerably more elevated. 



STEAM BOATS. 

Although there are roads, said to be good, on both 
sides of the St. Lawrence, it was, till within five or 
six years, a considerably arduous undertaking, to 
travel, back and forward, between the two cities of 
Canada. By land, in the slow Canadian Calash, 
it was tedious, and although down the river from 
Montreal to Quebec, it was obviously no difficult 
thing to go with the current — to return by water, 
was always difficult. With head winds it was, of 
course, impossible to ascend, nor, with strong head 
winds could they always descend, even with the aid 
of the stream. 

Quebec and Montreal, were therefore a great 
way apart, as regarded facility of intercourse 5 now 
they are, in this respect very near, and it is possible 
to visit either city from the other, quite comfortably 
and at ease — to transact business and return, within 
the period of four days, although the distance is one 
hundred and eighty miles. This wonderful facility 
1ms been imparted by steam boats, of which no 
fewer than seven, now ply between Montreal and 
Quebec — they are named, Malsham, Swiftsure, 



316 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

Lady Sherbrook, Quebec, Telegraph, Car of Com- 
merce and Caledonia. 

The burden of the Malsham is over six hundred 
tons, and that of the Lady Sherbrook, was stated to 
us, at about eight hundred ; these are the largest, 
and most of the others are considerably smaller. 

They are built with deep holds for freight, 
which appears to be much more an object with 
them than passengers. Going down in the Swift- 
sure, of between three and four hundred tons, 
we had but about a dozen cabin passengers, and re- 
turning in the Malsham we had but four. The ac- 
commodations are good, and the provision for the 
table ample — for dinner it is luxurious — there is a 
lunch at noon, for dinner is at four o'clock, and tea 
at eight ; breakfast also at eight o'clock. 

The Captains of the boats partake in all the good 
things ; some of them at least, are convivial with 
their guests, and sit long to drink wine, which is the 
common practice in Canada. 

Some of them appear to be in danger from reple- 
tion ; they have but little bodily exercise, and 
swimming as they do in a sea of luxury, it is not 
extraordinary that they exhibit the physical effects 
of good living ; they are, however, very obliging 
and courteous to their passengers, who are made 
perfectly comfortable, on board of their boats. 

The machinery is situated deep in the hold, and 
appears but little above deck ; this circumstance, 
with the depth of the hull, and the burden of freight 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 317 

which the boats carry, causes them to move much 
more steadily than ours do. 

On board the Malsham we could scarcely per- 
ceive the jar of the machinery ; there being no 

ladles on board, Mr. W and myself were per- 

jnitted to appropriate the after cabin, a very pretty 
room, where with a comfortable fire, we enjoyed 
oven domestic retirement, and were allowed to oc- 
cupy our time as we pleased. 

We were told, ^hat the Lady Sherbrook was the 
, finest boat in the line, but we were not on board of 
I her. 

' The fuel for the boats costs about two dollars and 

I fifty cents the cord, and they stop twice, once at 

I Sorel, arid oac© at the Three Rivers, to take it in. 

The passage costs ten dollars down to Quebec, 

1 and twelve returning ; we were on board two nights, 

and one day, in going down, and two days and three 

I nights in returning ; but a part of two of the nights, 

I in the last, and of one of them in the first, was spent 

in the dock. 

Steam boat business has been very profitable on 
this river, but is now said to be otherwise, owing 
principally to its being overdone. 

DANGERS OF STEAM BOATS. 

The catastrophes produced by the explosion of 
the boilers of steam boats, having now become 
rare, the attention of the public, in consequence of 



318 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

several unhappy occurrences, and especially of the 
late dreadful one, on lake Champlain, has been di- 
rected to the dangers of fire. The active volcano 
which the steam boat necessarily carries in her 
bowels, seems sufficiently appalling, and few per- 
sons, when first beginning to travel in this way, can 
lie down to sleep, without deeply pondering, that a 
furious imprisoned enemy, is raging within the com- 
hustible vehicle, that bears them along, and that 
both fire and water, usually foes, but here leagued 
in unnatural alliance, may conspire for their de- 
struction. Rarely, however, does it appear to have 
occurred to the traveller, that the most serious dan- 
ger (as the thing is actually managed,) arises from 
just that neslij^ence, and presumption, and apathy, 
which destroy so many buildings, so much proper- 
ty, and so many lives on shore. 

I am sorry to say, that in the boats on these 
northern waters, there is not that degree of care and 
anxious vigilance which the case certainly demands, 
where so much property and so many lives are at 
stake. The Phoenix, as I have before observed, 
was, without doubt, destroyed by a candle ; still 
candles are negligently left on board of most of the 
boats in the northern waters ; fires and candles are 
not adequately watched on the St. Lawrence, and 
we have seen in one of the Canadian boats, a fire 
made in an open stove, standing without a chimney, 
on the naked deck, while the coals were every mo- 
ment blowing against pine spars, and falling on the 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 319 

deck, which was made of dry pine and covered 
with pitch. We were also exposed to danger from 
a very unexpected 

INCIDENT. 

s On our passage up the river, in a northeasterly 
storm, just as we were entering the Richelieu rap- 
ids, where we needed all our power to stem the 
current, and any disaster would be pecuharly em- 
barrassing, we were pressing on, not only with pow- 
erful steam, but with a strong and fair wind, which 
strained every thread of our large square sail, the 
only one which we carried. Our mast, apparently 
about fifty feet high, and of proportionate diameter, 
was, it seems, only feebly braced from the bow, al- 
though perhaps sufficiently in the other direction. 

The Captain, having been up the preceding night., 
was asleep below : I was on deck, and observed 
that our mast, with its feeble shrouds, was strained 
to the utmost, and felt some anxiety lest it should 
fail. Gomg below, I was scarcely seated, before a 
crash and an outcry brought me again on deck. 

The wind, it appears, suddenly flirted around, 
and a violent squall from an angry cloud, instantly 
threw the sail all aback upon the mast ; there being 
no adequate stays or braces to sustain the solitary 
pine, it snapped, like a pipe's tail ; the two chimnies 
were a few yards behind ; the heavy spar which sup- 
ported the sail at top, falling violently across one of 



320 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND lil/EBKl . 

the chimnies, was broken quite in two ; the mast, 
also, in its fall, broke the horizontal iron rods, which 
crossed each other and were fastened to some high 
frame work, to sustain the chimnies ; the sail fell over 
the months of both chimnies, and shut them up com- 
pletely, and from the top of one of them, sus- 
tained by the cords which fastened them to the sail, 
hung the two broken pieces of the yard, probably 
forty feet in length. 

The Captain could not be immediately found : 
the Canadian seamen wdio managed the boat, vocif- 
erated most furiously in French, but seemed utterly 
confounded, and without resource, and some feeble 
attempts which they made to disengage the sail 
from the chimnies, only pulled it more entirely over 
them. In the mean time, the wind, which continu- 
ed to blow violently, jerked the sail and its broken 
spars with so much force, that there was much dan- 
ger that the chimnies would go by the board ; in 
which case, our furnaces, being in full action below, 
would throw out their flame immediately upon the 
deck, and upon the tierces of gin, by which it was 
covered, even close to the chimnies. There ap- 
peared to be nearly one hundred of these tierces, 
and the explosion of any one of them, w^hich would 
probably occur if struck by the fire, would involve 
us in sheets of flame ; and should we even succeed 
in extinguishing the fire, our boat, without either 
steam or sail, would be completely unmanageable, and 
be Hable to be wrecked at the foot of the rapids. 



YOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 321 

In this moment of anxiety, (while a poor Scotcli 
emigrant, whose all was on board, was weeping and 
wringing his hands, and exclaiming that we should 
all be lost,) the Captain arrived on deck. The 
wind worried the sail across the top of one of the 
chimnies, w^hich was cut into points like a picket 
fence, so that the canvass was soon completely 
perforated, and the chinmey stood up through it, 
like a head in a pillory. The other chimney was 
so battered by the fall of the yard, that it could 
not pierce the sail, especially as it was guarded at 
that part by a strong rope, and every effort to dis- 
engage it failed. It was easy to foresee what must 
follow : the sail, which being wet with rain, for 
some time resisted the heat, now became so dried, 
that it took fire and blazed. The Captain sent up 
one of the sailors to cut it away, and the man, with 
sufficient hardihood, crawled up and worked where 
it was on fire all around him. At length, by burn- 
ing, it fell from the chimney, and we were extrica- 
ted from our unpleasant situation. If, however, the 
sail, the fuel on deck, and every part of the boat 
had been dry, and especially, had the accident oc- 
curred in the nighl, the consequences might have 
been very pain^l. But there was an eye superior 
to human vigilance, which watched over our safety. 

Immediately after this accident, we had a good 

})roof of the manner in v/nich science and art can 

sometimes triumph over the obstacles of nature. 

We entered the rapids of Richelieu, not only with 

28 



322 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

an opposing current of great strength, but with a 
stroflg head wind ; but still, by the force of steam 
alone, we fought our way through, and indeed the 
same wind continued through the remainder of our 
passage. 

A NIGHT SCENE ON THE ST. LAWRENCE. 

The long tvviliglit of this climate, which, (as ob- 
served at Montreal,) in a degree compensates for 
the shortness of the days, w^as exhausted ; the cot- 
tages and villages on shore cast their evening hght 
on the river ; the waning moon, reduced to less 
than half her full size, had just ris(m over our stern, 
and cast a feeble radiance on the flood and the 
shores ; the stars, unobscured by a single cloud, 
were bright as gems in the azure vault ; the galaxy 
was dehcately traced athwart the sky — all was still- 
ness, except the dashing of the water wheels, the 
cry of the steersman, and the occasional song of the 
Canadian boatmen ; when the aurora borealis ap- 
peared, under circumstances which I never before 
witnessed. 

Not only was there a delicate glow in the lower 
part of the northern portion of th^sky, similar to 
that seen through a transparency, but there were 
shoots of light darting upward like very feeble 
flames, now elongating, now receding, and chang- 
ing their places. 

After being a little while below, I w^as delighted, 
on returning, to see a zone of light passing through 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 323 

the zenith, extending across the entire heavens, in- 
tersecting the milky way very obliquely, greatly 
surpassing it in brightness, and forming a beautiful 
glowing belt. 

At this moment, our two chimnies emitted vol- 
umes of smoke, succeeded by flame, and a long 
stream of brilliant sparks, carried far astern by the 
wind, illuminated the deck and the water. 

The Lady Sherbrooke going down the river, 
glowing with lamps, and streaming with fire, now 
moved majestically by us, and seemed a floating 
and illuminated castle. Loud vociferations of nau- 
tical French, from both boats, were soon lost in the 
rapidly increasing distance ; while the lovely belt in 
the heavens, beginning to break, and hanging here 
and there in pale patches of light, finally vanished, 
and resigned the sky to the moon and the stars. 

JVote. — July 31st, 1S20. The papers 'nave just informed us el 
the death of the celebrated Botanist, Frederick Pursh. IJe 
died at Montreal on tlie 11th inst. after a lingering illness. 

When the efforts and purposes of a man who has, by useful or 
splendid labours, attracted the attention of the world, are cut off 
by death, and his mortal toil is over, the mind dwells with an in- 
creased, interest on circumstances, which might not otherwise 
have attracted our attention. This is my apology for the follow- 
ing note. 

At the town of Sorel, when we were returning to Montreal in 
the steam boat, Mr. Pursh came on board, and was with us the 
remainder of the passage. His scientific labours are well known, 
and the public have pronounced their decided approbation of his 
beautiful work, the American Flora, published in London in 



524 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 



MONTREAL. 

St, Johns, Oct. 14th, 1S19. — On leaving the city, 
this morning, we passed again to Longueil, but not 
in so frail a bark, as before. We were conveyed in 
a horse boat, worked by ten horses, and which, 
when we entered, had just discharged sixteen carts 
and calashes, besides people and cattle, other than 

iS14. Mr. Pursh expressed himself very warraly, on the subject 
of the liberal aid which he received in Europe from scientific 
men, in the use of their libraries and their herbariums, and 
in the tendev of their private advice and information ; he men- 
tioned, particularly, his obligations to Sir Joseph Banks and 
PRESIDENT Smith. He informed me, that he contemplated an- 
other tour to Europe, for the purpose of publishing his Flora of 
Canada, upon which he had been already several years occupied, 
and expected to be still occupied for several years more. These 
researches led him much among the savage nations of the north 
west, and around the great lakes. He went first among them in 
company with the exploring and trading parties of the North 
West Com|)any, but tearing to be involved in the consequences 
of their quarrels, he abandoned their protection, and threw him- 
self, alone and unprotected, upon the generosity of the aborigines. 
He pursued his toilsome researches, month after month, travel- 
ling on foot, relying often on the Indians for support, and, of 
course, experiencing frequently the hunger, exposure, and perils 
of savage life. But such was the enthusiasm of his mind, and his 
complete devotion to the ru/i?2gjja.s5ion, that bethought little of 
marciiing, day after day, often with a pack weighing sixty pounds 
on his shoulders, throngli forests and swamps, and over rocks and 
mountains, provided he could discover anew plant ; great numbers 
of such he assured me he had found, and that he intended to pub- 
lish the drawings and descriptions o^them in his Canadian Flora. 
From the Indians, he said, he experienced nothing but kindness, 
and hp often derived from thera important assistance • he thought 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEB E€. 325 

those belonging to these vehicles. We crossed 
lower down, and in deeper water, than we had pass- 
ed in the canoe. 

The view of the town, when we were receding, 
as well as when we were advancing, was very 
fine. It stretches about two miles along the St. 
Lawrence, and it scarcely equals half a mile in 
breadth. The bank of the river is considerably el- 
evated, and the ground, although not very uneven, 
rises gradually from the water, into a moderate 
ridge — then sinks into a hollow, and then rises again, 

that had they been treated with uniform justice and humanity by 
the whites, they would have always returned the same treatment. 
He said he ranch preferred their protection to that of the wan- 
dering whites, who, unrestrained by almost any human law, 
prowl through those immense forests in quest of furs and game. 
Possibly (without, however, intending any thing disrespectful by 
the remark,) some mutual sympathies might have been excited, 
by the fact that Mr. Pursh was himself a Tartar, born and edu- 
cated in Siberia, near Toboltski ; and, indeed, he possessed a 
physiognomy and manner different from that of Europeans, and 
jiighly characteristic of his country. 

His conversation was full of fire, point, and energy ; and, al- 
though not polished, he was good humoured, frank, and generous. 
He complained that he could not endure the habits of civilized 
life, and that his health began to be impaired as soon as he be- 
came quiet, and was comfortably fed and lodged. He said he 
must soon " be off again" into the wilderness. His health was then 
declining, and unfortunately it was but too apparent, that somt 
ot the measures to which he resorted to sustain il, must eventu- 
ally prostrate his remaining vigor. 

It is to be hoped that his unfinished labours will not be lost, 
and that although incomplete, they may be published ; since, if 
sufficiently matured, they must add to the stock of knowledge. 

28* 



326 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBSTt 

with more rapidity, till it finishes, less than a mile 
and a half from the town, in one of the finest hills 
that can be imagined. This hill is called the moun- 
tain^ of Montreal, and indeed, from it the town de- 
rives its name; the words originally signified, as is 
said, the Royal Mountain. This mountain rises 
five hundred and fifty feet above the level of the 
river* 

It forms a steep and verdant barrier, covered with 
shrubbery, and crowned with trees, and is a most 
beautiful back ground for the city* 

Its form, as it appears from the river, is nearly 
that of a bow. We rode up, across the souths* 
end of it, behind the beautiful seat of the Hon. Mr. 
McGillivray. I afterv;ards ascended it on foot, in 
company with an English gentleman, and walked 
the length of its ridge. The view is one of the fin- 
est that can be seen in any country. Immediately 
at our feet, the city of Montreal is in full view, with 
its dazzhng tin covered roofs, and spires, and its 
crowded streets ; the noble St. Lawrence, stretch- 
ing away to the right and left, is visible, probably for 
fifty miles, and, on both sides of it, and for a very 
great w^idth, particulary on the south, one of the 
most luxuriant champaign countries in the world, is 
spread before the observer. Tlie mountains of 
Belseil, Chambly, and a few others, occur upon this 

" There are several springs near the lop of this mountain, and 
fi'omthenri the town is supplied with ^fater, by the usual means o*^ 

'^ubtprrsncan pipes 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 32*7 

vast plain, but, in general, it is not interrupted, till 
it reaches the territories of the United States, in 
which we discern the mountains of Vermont and 
New-York. 

In our rear, we saw the Ottawa or Grand River, 
and its branches, which, uniting, and becoming 
blended with the St. Lawrence, divide the island of 
Montreal from the main. 

Nothing is w^anting, to render the mountain of 
Montreal a charming place for pedestrian excur- 
sions, and for rural parties, but a little effort, and 
expense in cutting and clearing winding walks, and 
^^h removing a few trees from the principal points of 
view, (as they now form a very great obstruction ;) 
a lodge, or resting place, on the mountain, construct- 
ed so as to be ornamental, would also be a desirable 
addition. 

On the front dechvity of the mountain, is a beau- 
tiful cylinder of lime stone, or grey marble, erected 
on a pedestal ; the entire height of both appeared 
to be about thirty-five feet. It rises from among 
the trees, by which it is surrounded, and is a monu- 
ment to the memory of Simon McTavish, Esq. 
who died about fourteen years since, and was, in 
a sense, the founder of the North Western Compa- 
ny. Just below, i& a handsome mausoleum, of the 
same materials, containing his remains; and, still 
lower down the mountain, an unfinished edifice af 
atone, erected by the same gentleman, which, had 
he lived to complete it, would have been one of the 



328 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEC, 

finest in the vicinity of Montreal. It is now fast 
becoming a ruin, although it is enclosed and roofed in, 
and the windows are built up with masonry. It would 
have been a superb house, if finished according to 
the original plan. 

GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY. 

The mineralogy and geology of this mountain, 
and of the island, I could wish to see thoroughly in- 
vestigated, as they appear to be interesting; the few 
facts which I had it in my power to observe, were 
as follow^s : The plain at the foot of the mountain, 
particularly at the race course, is compact, black 
lime stone, fetid, and containing organized remains ; 
its stratification is regular, and its position flat; it 
forms one of the most common building stones in 
Montreal. This rock seems to prevail half way up 
the mounta'in, and is followed, by what appeared to 
me, a hard, probably a sihceous slate, intersected by 
veins of trap. Higher up still, and on the north-east- 
ern end particularly, is a rock, inclined at an angle of 
45°, which seemed to be a decomposed lime stone, 
of a light grey colour, and friable texture, at least 
where it was exposed to the weather. 

The very summit of the mountain, is a horn- 
blende rock, highly crystalline in its structure, and 
containing distinct crystals of both hornblende and 
augite. It is a striking example of the parasytical 
character of the hornblende and trap rocks, follow- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 329 

ing no regular order of succession, but occasionally 
forming caps and ridges, on all sorts of rocks and 
mountains. 

There is found also on the island, within a short 
distance of the town, a lime stone, of a smoke grey, 
highly crystalline in its structure, nearly, or quite as 
much so as the decidedly primitive marbles ; when 
broken, it presents numerous and brilliant crystalline 
plates, and this is, in fact, almost exclusively its 
structure. 

Still, it contains numerous shells, and other or- 
ganized remains, of which the impressions and 
forms are very distinct. Shells, and organized re- 
mains, in a highly crystallized lime stone ! Is it 
transition lime stone, just on the verge of becoming 
primitive ? I had no time to visit the place whence 
it comes, but, in the piles of stone, about to be used 
in building, in the town, I observed this crystallized 
lime stone (and that in vast blocks, shewing the 
stratification, and evincing that it was not accidental) 
actually united into one piece, with the black com- 
pact kind, like the hone slates, of different colours, 
which are often exposed for sale. 

In other pieces, I saw fragments of the black 
compact kind, mixed ivith the crystallized ; and 
some large blocks of the latter were terminated by 
a black uneven surface, probably shewing the line 
of connexion witl^- the black kind.* 

* I thence infer, that they occur together, in immediate connex- 
ion, and probably the black compact kind will be found to Ke up 
^Ti the other. 



330 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

I have not seen enough of the vicinity of Mont- 
real, to venture to pronounce, confidently, concerning 
its geological classification ; it would appear, how- 
ever, that it is partly a transition, but principally a 
secondary region. I saw no proof that any part of 
it is primitive, and cannot hut wonder at the opin- 
ion entertained, as I am told, by many persons in 
Montreal, that the grey crystallized lime stone is 
granite. I saw no granite on the island. 

MODE OF BUILDING IN MONTREAL. 

Montreal has much the appearance of an Euro- 
pean town, particularly of a continental one. The 
streets are narrow, except some of the new ones ; 
the principal ones, are those parallel to the river, 
of which those of St. Paul, which is a bustling street 
of business, near the river, and Notre Dame street, 
on higher ground, and more quiet, more genteel, 
and better built, are the principal ; the latter street 
is thirty feet wide, and three fourths of a mile long. 
A few of those which intersect the above streets at 
right angles, are also considerable. The town has 
a crowded active population, and many strangers, 
and persons from the country, augment the activity 
in its streets. 

But the circumstance which assimilates it most to 
a continental European town, is its being built of 
stone. People from the United States, are apt to 
consider Montreal as gloomy, and, I presume it 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 331 

arises from the fact, of its being built of stone, and 
principally in an antique fashion. The former is, 
however, in reality, a strong ground of preference 
over our cities, built of wood and brick. Stone is 
the best material of which houses can be construct- 
ed ; if properly built, they are not damp in the 
least ; they exclude both heat and cold, better than 
any other houses ; they will not burn,* except in 
part, and scarcely need repair, and they are easily 
made very handsome. Indeed, no other material 
possesses sufficient dignity for expensive public ed- 
ifices ; and we were sorry to see even a few private 
houses, in the suburbs of Montreal, built of brick, in 
the Anglo-American style. 

I was, I confess, much gratified at entering, for 
the first time, an American city, built of stone. The 
inhabitants of Montreal possess a very fine building 
stone in the grey lime stone already mentioned ; it 
is as handsome, when properly dressed, as the cel- 
ebrated Portland stone of England, and it is much 
superior to it in durability. A number of the mod- 
ern houses of Montreal, and of its environs, which 
are constructed of this stone, handsomely hewn, are 
very beautiful, and would be ornaments to the city 
of London, or to Westminster itself. 

Many of the houses are constructed of rough 
stone, coarsely pointed, or daubed with mortar, and 
have certainly an unsightly appearance ; others, 

* An advantage, which they obviously possess in common with 
brick. 



332 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (iUEBEC. 

here, as well as at Quebec, and elsewhere in Cana- 
da, are covered with a rough cement, and look rude- 
ly ; it is perfectly easy to make both these kinds of 
houses handsome, as well as durable, as is seen in 
particular instances in Canada. 

Many of the houses, and stores, and ware-houses, 
In Montreal, have iron plate doors, and window 
shutters, fortified by iron frames ; this is obviously 
a precaution against fire, as well as robbery, and the 
tin coverings on the roofs of the buildings, are in- 
tended as a protection against the former. 

The tin is put on in an oblique direction to the 
cornice and ridge ; the nails are covered from view, 
and from the weather, by doubhng the tin over the 
heads of the nails, and the different rows of tin 
sheets are made to lap in the manner of shingles. 
It is by no means an easy thing, to put on a tin roof, 
so as to be made handsome and durable. 

Montreal is certainly a fine town of its kind, and 
it were much to be wished that the people of the 
United States would imitate the Canadians, by con- 
structing their houses, wherever practicable, of 
stone. 



ENVIRONS. 

The environs of Montreal are beautiful, but, al- 
though considerably cultivated and improved, they 
are far from being brought to the state of which 
they are capable. 



I 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 333 

A number of handsome villas now make then- 
appearance around the town, and there are numer- 
ous scites, still unoccupied, which will probably 
be hereafter crowned with elegant seats. Few 
places in the world, possess more capabilities of 
this kind than Quebec and Montreal ; if the latter is 
less bold than the former, in its scenery, it possess- 
es much richness, and delicate beauty, which need 
nothing but wealth and taste to display them to advan- 
tage ; the former already exists in Montreal to a 
great extent, and there are also very respectable 
proofs of the existence and growth of the latter. 

RACE COURSE AND RACING. 

Near the city of Montreal, there is a race course, 
a circuit of about two miles. It happened that we 
were at this place at the time of the races, and in a 
ride around the environs, we came across the 
ground, at the time when the horses were about 
starting. The subject seemed to excite a good deal 

j of interest in the community. In the steam boat on 
lake Champlain, Canadians, anticipating the sports 

I of the ensuing week, were much occupied in discus- 
sing the merits of the different horses, and in pre- 
dicting the results. 

The same topic was the ruling one at the pub- 
lic houses, and, upon the turf, where we found 

I both the gentry and the common people of Montre- 
al. The latter were on foot, and the former were 

29 



334 TOLll BKTWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

either on horseback, or with elegant equipages, of 
which this city affords a few. Their number ap- 
pears not to be proportioned to the weakh of the 
place, for the obvious reason, that from the nature 
of the country, water conveyance, is principally 
used in travelling. Ladies were present in consid- 
erable numbers, and all were intent, while the judg- 
es mounted the stage — the horses were led forth, 
and the riders, in leather breeches, silk party colour- 
ed jackets, and jockey caps, mounted, and darted 
away at the appointed signal. 

Three times they coursed around the appointed 
circle, and twice, at least, must a horse come out 
ahead of his competitors before the prize is won. 

It was, in the present instance, obtained by a 
iiorse, famous, it seems, on this ground, for distan- 
cing all his compeers. His name is Democrat, and 
thus it has grown into a proverb that Democrat heats 
every thing in Canada, 

At Quebec there is also a race course, and races 
were held the day that we arrived. The course is 
on the venerable plains of Abraham, where we saw 
the ground, exhibiting marks of having been re- 
cently trod. How different a strife from that be- 
tween contending armies ! AVho would not wish 
to preserve these classical plains from such a de- 
gradation ! 



yi 



'm 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 3.S5 

IMPORTANCE OF MONTREAL. 

The point which connects the ocean, and of 
course Europe, and the rest of the world, with the 
countries bordering on the vast lakes of this conti- 
nent, and upon the various rivers which empty into 
them, cannot be otherwise than important. This 
is precisely the situation of Montreal and its loca- 
tion certainly evinces great good judgment on tht^ 
part of Jaques Cartier, who in 1635 or 36, first 
sailed thus far upon the St. Lawrence, and fixed 
upon this place as the scite for a town. It was then 
occupied by an Indian village. The city was be- 
i^un in 1640, by a few houses, compactly built, and 
was originally called Ville Marie. There seems, 
however, to have been one error in locating the fu- 
ture city. It was meant to be at the head of navi- 
\ t^ation ; it is literally so; and ships* can go up to 
vhe very city, although it is not usual to do it with 
vessels of more than an hundred and fifty tons. 
Vess(?ls drawing fifteen feet of water, can lie at 
Market gate, high up in the city ; the general depth 
of water in the harbour is from three to four and a 
half fathoms. Unfortunately, however, the rapid 
of St. Mary, at the extreme end of the town, or 
rather, near one of its suburbs, is so powerful an ob- 
stacle, that nothing but a very strong wind will force 
a vessel through, when not impelled by any other 
power. 

' It is said even of six liundred tons. 



336 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 

Ships are sometimes detained here for weeks, 
only two miles below where they are to deliver 
their freight ; a canal is contemplated, to enable 
river craft to convey freight around the rapid. 

This is the rapid where the steam boats are 
obliged to anchor and procure the aid of oxen. It 
would appear that the town should have been built 
at this place, or a little below, and then the incon- 
venience would have been avoided. But as the 
buildings do now, in fact, extend to this place, it 
would be easy to establish a port here, and it will 
doubtless be done in time ; it would, however, great- 
ly forward the object, if a few spirited individuals 
would begin, by erecting stores and wharves, and it 
w^ould be easy to have the steam boats stop there ; 
easy I mean, as to every thing but the rival local 
interests which are usually in such cases arrayed 
against projected improvements. There are few 
cities in the world, especially of the magnitude and 
importance of Montreal, which, situated more than 
five hundred and eighty miles from the ocean, can 
still enjoy the benefit of a direct ship communica- 
tion with it. 

Montreal is evidently one of the three great 
channels by which the trade of North America will 
be principally carried on. It is obvious that 
New-York and New-Orleans, are the other two 
places, and it is of little consequence that other 
cities rnay engross a considerable share of trade, or 



»OUR BETWEEN HARTFORB AND Q,UEBEC. 337 

that by canals and other internal improvements, 
smaller rills of commerce may be made to flow to- 
wards one city or another. The great natural ba- 
sins, and water courses and mountain ranges of this 
continent, will still control the course of trade, and 
direct its most gigantic currents, towards these three 
towns, one of which is already a great and noble 
city, and the two others are advancing with great 
rapidity. The sickly climate of New-Orleans, will 
somewhat retard its growth, but will not prevent it ; 
Montreal enjoys a climate extremely favourable to 
health, but it is locked up by ice four or five 
months in the year. The carriole however tri- 
umphs over the ice, and the Canadian, when he 
can no longer push or paddle his canoe, on the wa- 
ters of the St. Lawrence, gaily careers over its frost- 
bound surface, and well wrapped in woollen and in 
furs, defies the severity of winter. 

In 1815, Colonel Bouchette stated the popula- 
tion of Montreal at fifteen thousand ; no one now 
rates it, including the suburbs, at less than twenty 
thousand, and one intelligent inhabitant gave it as 
his opinion, that the population must, at present, 
equal twenty five thousand ; perhaps the middle 
number is nearest to the truth. 

Montreal has many good, respectable institutions, 
most of which are, however, French establish- 
ments, dating their origin under the French domin- 
ion, now sixty years extinct in this country. I must 
refer for an account of them as well as of those at 

29^ 



338 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC* 

Quebec to Colonel Bouchette's work which ougiit 
to be perused by every person who would obtain a 
competent knowledge of the Canadas. I shall 
presently quote from him the dimensions and ex- 
tent of some of the most important pubhc institu- 
tions of Montreal. 

The colleges or seminaries of Quebec and of 
Montreal, are considered as v^ry useful institutions, 
and the French is the colloquial tongue in both. 
A gentleman of New- York, who came on with us 
in the steam boat down Lake Champlain, brought 
three boys with liim — two of them his own chil- 
dren, and placed them at the seminary in Montreal. 
This institution is said to contain two or three hun- 
dred members ; both here and at Quebec, they are 
distinguished by a peculiar costume — a blue sur- 
tout, tlie seams of which are all ornamented with a 
white cord, and they are confined around the body> 
both summer and winter, by a large sash or belt, 
doubled around the bowels, and tied in a knot, it is 
of woollen and of many colours, and gives them 
-something of a milhary air. In winter, this appen- 
dage must be useful, but in summer, (and the Ca- 
rip.dian heat is very intense) it must be oppressive 
.if not injurious. Among the youths whom we saw 
in the streets, in the academic uniform, were some 
who were almost men, and others who appeared to 
have hardly escaped from the nursery. The mor- 
als of the boys are said to be very carefully watch- 
od, and the expences to be very moderate — two 



TOUR BETVVEEiV HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 339 

points in which they are certainly very worthy of 
imitation. 

I did not go into the college buildings, but their 
exterior, which I saw, is rude, and the building is 
ancient. They have a fine garden and "buildings 
without the city, besides those that are within. 

The nunneries both here and at Quebec, are 
maintained in all their pristine dignity. We wer& 
too much occupied at Quebec, to see the nunneries 
even in the limited manner in which they are shewn, 
and at Montreal they are open, in a restricted sense, 
on Thursday only ; this happened, unfortunately, 
to be the only day in the week which we did not 
spend there. I went, however, into the Court yard 
of one of the principal nunneries, and saw one of 
the aged sisters with her veil lifted up ; she was 
busily occupied in feeding chickens. 

In the institutions called Hotel Dieu, both at 
Quebec and at Montreal, and in other hospitals, the 
nuns attend on sick and distressed persons, without 
Tegard to any distinctions, whether of religion or oth- 
erwise ; and their humanity, disinterestedness, and 
skilful kindness are spoken of in the highest terms of 
approbation. An opulent and highly respectable citi- 
zen, of Montreal, formerly from Massachusetts, said 
to us, " I shall always think highly of the nuns, and 
feel very grateful to them ; for when I first came to 
Montreal, poor and friendless, and became sick, I 
committed myself to the care of the nuns in one of 
the hospitals, and there I received, for months, 



340 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

all the kindness of mothers and of sisters, till I was 
restored to health." 

Perhaps we ought not to censure with too much 
severity, the establishment of, here and there, an 
institution, where the unhappy, the bereaved and 
even the deserted and betrayed, especially when 
they are pe^^sons distinguished by meritorious pe- 
culiarities of character or situation, may find at least 
a temporary shelter from the gaze of an unfeeling 
world ; but it certainly is wrong, to make the de- 
sertion of the most interesting and important social 
relations a religious duty. It is however, a pleasing 
alleviation to find that any such persons make some 
amends to society for their derehction of its common 
duties and interests, by the gratuitous performance 
of difficult and painful offices of humanity. 

Montreal has a number of good public buildings. 
Besides the large Cathohc and English Cathedrals, 
nnd other churches, there are, the Court House, 
which is one hundred and forty four feet long, the 
Jail and the Banks, and various other public build- 
ings which do honour to the town. The Court 
House, Jail and English Cathedral particularly are 
modern, and very large and handsome buildings, 
constructed of the grey limestone, hewn and laid up 
with neatness and skill. 

The monument to Lord Nelson, in the principal 
market place, would grace any of the squares of , 
London. A figure of his lordship, crowns a high 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 341 

column* of the grey limestone, which is sustained 
by a large pedestal on the sides of which are ex- 
hibited in alto relievo, the principal achievements of 
his lordship's life and an appropriate inscription, 
containing his last and very memorable public or- 
ders to the squadron before the battle of Trafalgar, 
*' England expects that every man will do his 
duty." 

MISCELLAxNEOUS REMARKS ON MONTREAL. 

This city is in latitude 45° 31' north, and in lon- 
gitude 73° 35' west from Greenwich. It covers one 
thousand and twenty acres — what was within the old 
fortifications was only one hundred acres. Its climate 
is very considerably milder than that of Quebec, and 
most persons would probably consider it as a more 
desirable residence. In regard to accommodations, it 
is so to a stranger, who will look in vain, in Quebec, 
for an establishment equal to the Mansion House. 
He will find indeed in Quebec a good table, but 
there are deficiencies on other topics, to which an 
American, from the United States, and still more 
perhaps an Englishman will not easily be recon- 
ciled. 

The following factsf as to the extent of some of 
the public establishments of Montreal, may be of 

"I have not beard its height mentioned, but should imagine U 
may be forty feet. 

t Bouchctle, 



342 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

some use, towards a correct estimation of the pub- 
lic spirit of the country, especially of tliat which 
prevailed under the French dominion. 

The Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644, is three hun- 
dred and twenty-four feet in front, by four hundred 
and sixty-eight deep ; it is attended by thirty-six 
nuns, who administer to the sick and diseased of 
both sexes. 

The Convent of La Congregation de Notre Dame, 
forms a range of buildings, two hundred and thirty- 
four feet in front, by four hundred and thirty-three ; 
the object of this institution is female instruction. 

The general hospital or convent of the grey sis- 
ters, was founded in 1750 : it occupies a s})ace 
along the little river, St. Pierre, of six hundred and 
seventy-eight feet, and is a refuge for the innrni 
poor and invalids. 

The Cathedral of Notre Dame, is one hundred 
and forty-four feet by ninety-four ; this church we 
thought, in some respects, more splendid in the in- 
terior, but less grand, than that at Quebec. It con- 
tains, among other things, a gigantic wooden image 
of the Saviour on the cross. The Cathedral stands 
completely in the street of Notre Dame, across the 
place d'armes, and entirely obstructs tlie view up 
and down the street. This church is on the out- 
side rude and unsightly. 

The English Cathedral is the finest building in 
Montreal — its tower, which is unfinished, is still in 
progress ; this cliurch is very Targe, but I did not 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 343 

learn its dimensions. Those whom we saw attend- 
ing worship in it, were persons of very genteel ap- 
pearance, inckiding many military men, but the 
church would have held ten times as many as were 
present. 

The seminary of St. Sulpice, occupies three 
sides of a square and is one hundred and thirty-tw^o 
feet by ninety, with spacious gardens. It was foun- 
ded about 1657. 

The new College or Petit Seminaire, is in tlie 
Recollet suburbs ; it is two hundred and ten feet by 
forty-five, w^ith a wing at each end of one hundred 
and eighty-six feet by forty-five ; it is an appendage 
of the other seminary, and designed to extend its 
usefuhiess, by enlarging its accommodations. 

There is near the mountain of Montreal, another 
appendage of the seminary. It appears to be about 
a mile from the town — it is a considerable stone 
building surrounded by a massy w^all, w^hich enclo- 
ses extensive gardens, he. This place was former- 
ly called Clateau des Seigneurs de Montreal, but 
now it has the appellation of LaMaison des Pretres. 
It is a place of recreation, resorted to, once a w^eek^ 
by both the superiors and pupils of the Seminary. 

There is no Enghsh College in Canada, but a 
foundation for one has been laid by a gentleman,* 
who died in 1814, and bequeathed ten thousand 
pounds, besides a handsome real estate at the 
mountain near Montreal, " for the purpose of en- 
*Hon. James M'Gill. 



344 TOUIl BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

dowing an English College ; but upon condition 
that such an institution should be erected within 
ten years, otherwise the property was to revert 
to his heirs." I have not heard that the plan has 
ever been carried into execution. 

I know nothing that has excited my surprise 
more in Canada, than the number, extent and vari- 
ety of the French insthutions, many of them intrin- 
sically of the highest importance, and all of them 
(according to their views) possessing that character. 
They are the more extraordinary when we con- 
sider that most of them are more than a century 
old, and that at the time of their foundation the 
Colony was feeble, and almost constantly engaged 
in war. It would seem from these facts, as if the 
French must have contemplated the establishment 
of a permanent and eventually of a great empire in 
America, and this is the more probable as most of 
these institutions were founded during the ambitious, 
splendid and enterprising reign of Louis XIV. 

NORTH WEST COMPANY. 

We have heard in the United States, much of the 
contests of Lord Selkirk,* with the North West 
Company. Fortunately the Americans of the 
States are not involved in the quarrel, but it is 
solely an affair of Briton with Briton. 

* This nobleman it seems, has now terminated his contests and 
his mortal career 



TOUR BETWEExNT HARTFOKD AND QUEBEC 345 

We were honoured with an introduction to Mr, 
Mc'Gilhvray, who since the death of Mr. Mc'Tavish, 
is the principal member of the North West Compa- 
ny. This gentleman, w^ith plain unassuming but 
courteous manners, and much good ' sense and 
worth, is highly esteemed in Canada. 

His villa, situated on one of the declivities of the 
mountain, about one mile and an half from the town 
—commanding a very rich and extensive prospect, 
is one of the most desirable residences, that I have 
ever seen, and appears to possess the charms of a fine 
English country seat, with a splendor and extent of 
prospect, of which, (in an equal degree,) England 
can rarely boast. 

Lord Selkirk, it appears, claims, under the old 
Hudson's Bay Company, a territorial right and ju- 
risdiction, over from one million to one million five 
hundred thousand acres of country, including the 
most important posts of the North West Company. 

This company, it seems, claims no territorial 
rights, except so far as to establish posts and depots, 
necessary to the carrying on of the trade in furs, 
which are their great object, and they entirely deny 
the right of Lord Selkirk, to assume, or of the Hud- 
son's Bay Company, to grant a territorial jurisdic- 
tion. The interfering views and arrangements of 
the tw^o parties, it is well known, have already pro- 
duced several severe conflicts, in which a good 
manv lives have been lost. Mr. Mc'Giliivrav in- 
formed us, that the thing, much to his satisfaction, 
30 



346 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

had at last got before parliament, and he hoped 
would now be arranged as it ought to be. 

We were informed that the quantity of furs fur- 
nished by the Indians, to the North West Company, 
is diminished one half, but Mr. Mc'Gillivray thought 
this rather fortunate than otherwise, because the im- 
poverishment of Europe, by its long continued 
course of wars, had so diminished the demand, that 
even now, it was fully supplied, and the only ef- 
fect of throwing more furs into the market, would be 
to diminish the demand, and of course the price. 

ABORIGINES. 

The native nations of this continent, it is true, 
were ferocious and cruel, and in this character, I have 
more than once, in the progress of these remarks, had 
occasion to stigmatize them. Yet it is an interest- 
ing, and at the same time a melancholy occupation, 
lo remember, that scarcely two centuries have 
elapsed, since this continent was occupied by its abo- 
riginal inhabitants ; heroic, lofty, free as the winds, 
and ignorant of any foreign masters. Now, the 
sword, and that still greater destroyer, which all their 
courage cannot resist, have almost exterminated 
these once powerful tribes. Their lands, it is true, 
jiave been in many instances sold, to the whites ; 
sold ! for what consideration ! — acres for beads and 
penknives — provinces for blankets, and empires for 
powder, ball and rum. Have they retired before 



TO^jR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^ViJKBLC. 347 

ihe wave of European population, and do they now 
exist in remoter and more happy regions, where 
trader never came, nor white man trod ? No ! those 
who once occupied the countries which the whites 
now inhabit, are annihilated ; the blast of death has 
withered their heroic thousands ; as nations they 
have sunk forever into the grave, and their dust is 
mingled with the fields which we cultivate. 

In our older settlements, especially in the Atlantic 
cities, they are now almost as rarely seen, as a white 
man in Tombuctoo, and the few who remain, are 
miserable, blighted remnants of their ancestors, par- 
alysed and consumed by strong drink, squalid in 
poverty and filth, and sunk by oppression and con- 
tempt. 

Are there any tribes that retain their former ele- 
vation f A few of them remain in the forests of the 
west and of the north, and some of them find their 
way to the cities of Canada. In the streets of 
Montreal, we saw numbers of these people who had 
come down from the north west, and their appear- 
ance (although even they cannot refrain from intoxi- 
cation) is such, that one who had never seen any 
but the miserable beings who stagger about our At- 
lantic towns, would hardly conceive that they be- 
longed to the same race. Most of them, (females 
as well as males,) are dressed in blue cloth panta- 
loons, with a blue robe or blanket, thrown graceful- 
ly over the shoulders, and belted with a scarlet or 
party coloured girdle, around the waist. They 
wear hats with lace and feathers, and have a supe- 



348 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QrEBEC. 

rior port, as if still conscious of some elevation of 
character. But these ill-fated nations will become 
extinct, notwithstanding the efforts of benevolent 
individuals, especially as manifested by the estab- 
lishments formed in the south-w^estern parts of the 
United States, to christianize and civilize them ; 
and a heavy reckoning rests on the heads of the 
civilized communities in America, for their cruel 
treatment of the American Aborigines, and of the 
not less injured Africans. 

PLOUGHING iMATCH. 

Within a few years, serious efforts have been 
made in Canada, to encourage its agriculture.-— 
Colonel Ogilvy, one of the British Commissioners, 
respecting the boundaries,* was among the first to 
encourage agriculture. The late Governors Sher- 
brook and Richmond, are also mentioned with 
great respect, as distinguished patrons of the same 
important interests. 

A society is now organised in Montreal, for the 
same purpose, and at their instance, a ploughing 
match was set on foot ; it occurred the day after 
our return from Quebec, and I rode out to see it. 

TweU'e pairs of horses, geared after the Enghsh 
manner, dragged as many ploughs, each moving in 
its appointed portion of a large smooth meadow. 

" Tlie news of whose unforlunato death, while engaged in the 
discliarge of the duties of that trust, reached Montreal while we 
were there, and created a stronaj sensation of e.rief. 



TOUR BETWEEN HAKTi'ORD A^D t^UEBEC. 349 

Some of the ploughs were made entirely of iron, 
and had a very light and neat appearance. Tlie 
ploughing was very well performed — the furrows 
were almost mathematically strait, and the turf was 
handsomely laid over. I was informed that there 
were three premiums, the highest forty dollars, and 
that they were granted both to excellence and speed 
combined. 

AGRICULTURAL DINNER. 

A great dinner was provided at the Mansion 
House where we lodged, and the friends of agricul- 
ture assembled, to partake of its fruits. Dining in 
support of ones country ^ and of its important inter- 
ests, is a method of evincing patriotism, so general- 
ly approved, that it rarely wants adherents. Nearly 
forty gentlemen were assembled on the present oc- 
casion, and among them were some of the princi- 
pal people for wealth and influence. 

The dinner hour in Quebec and Montreal is five 
o'clock, but as it is always five till it is six, the time of 
sitting down is usually delayed to near the latter hour, 
and dinner is actually served, for the most part, be- 
tween six and seven o'clock. By invhation, we at- 
tended, and in the present instance, sat down at seven 
o'clock ; the dinner, however, with all its appen- 
dages, was not over till the next day ; viz. till be- 
tween twelve and one o'clock m the morning. I 
need hardly say, that we did not sit it out; we 

30* 



350 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,L*£BEC 

Stayed however long enough, to see the peculiari- 
ties of a great dinner, in Montreal. 

The tables were laid in a room of fifty feet in 
length, and we marched into it, to the music of a 
considerable band — piping and drumming, the fa- 
vourite air, " speed tJie plough ^ 

A large transparency, occupying the space from 
the ceiling of a lofty room, nearly to the floor, ex- 
hibited, behind the chair of the President, a view of 
Montreal and of its beautiful mountain. 

The table was spread and decorated in a very- 
handsome manner, and ail the meats, poultry, wild 
fowl, and vegetables, which are in season in the 
United States, at this time, were laid before us, in 
the greatest perfection, both in the articles them- 
selves and in the cookery. The desert was equal- 
ly handsome, and of the same kind as is usual in 
the United States. Who, however, that is unac- 
quainted with Canada, would expect to see the 
finest cantelopes, and the most dehcious grapes, the 
produce of the country, and that in the middle of 
October 't The grapes are raised in the open air, 
but in winter the vines are not only covered 
with straw, as with us, but with clay more than a 
foot thick, and, in the summer, a great proportion 
of the leaves, except near the cluster, is taken off, 
and the vines are prevented from running, by twist- 
ing them. Peaches from the Genesee country, were 
on the table, but they were not particularly good; ap- 
ples, however, cantelopes, and' grapes of the finest 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 351 

kindf and in the greatest jjrofusion, hava been con- 
constantly before us in Canada, and have formed a 
part of almost every desert, even in the public 
houses and in the steam boats. " All the usual 
garden fruits, as gooseberries, currants, strawberries, 
raspberries, peaches, apricots and plunis,^ are pro- 
duced in plenty, and it may be asserted truly in as 
much perfection as in many southern climates, or 
even in greater." It is said that the orchards pro- 
duce apples not surpassed in any country. 

The agricultural productions of the country are 
very fine ; in no respect inferior to those of the 
United States, and they are evidently raised, in 
Lower Canada, in greater profusion, and with great- 
er ease, than with us. The market in Montreal, is 
excellent — it contains, according to the season, all 
kinds of meats, with abundance of fowl, game, fish, 
and vegetables, in fine order. 

The fine champaign country, which occupies so 
large a part of Lower Canada, is exceedingly fer- 
tile/ and, although we are accustomed to consider 
the climate as very severe, it is evidently very 
healthy ; with the contrivances which exist here, 
for producitNg and preserving heat, and for excluding 
cold, the climate is, by ail accounts, very comforta- 
ble ; and it does not appear, that it prevents the in- 
habitants from enjoying nearly every production of 
the earth, which is known in the States bordering 
on Canada. Their potatoes and cauliflowers, are 
particularly good, and are raised with great ease* 



352 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

The only article which we have found generally 
bad, in this country, has been bread. The best 
which we have seen, has been only tolerable, and 
most of it has been so sour, dark coloured, and bit- 
ter, that it took some time to reconcile us to it in any 
degree. We were, beyond measure, astonished 
at the badness of this article, especially as it is so 
good in England, and in the cities of the United 
States, and as so many of the Canadians are perfect- 
ly acquainted with both countries. 

This public dinner was conducted with great de- 
corum and civility. 

After dinner, toasts were drunk, with music ; the 
great personages of the empire, and of the North- 
American colonies, were, of course, toasted, and va- 
rious sentiments were given in honour of agriculture. 
Most of them were drunk* standing, and with 
cheers, three, six or nine, according to the intensity 
of feeling, or the dignity of the personages, or pop- 
ularity of the sentiment. 

* There was one circumstance m this dinner, which I have not 
elsewhere noticed. When the toasts were to be cheered, the 
Vice-President, after rising, (and the company with him,) cried 
out, very loud, and with very distinct articulation, and strong em- 
phasis, and k pause between the words — hip! hip! hip! hur- 
ra ! hurra I now ! now ! now : hurra ! again ! again '. 

again! hurra! hip! hip! hurra! hurra! hurra! he. — the 

company repeating only the hurra, to which the other words ap- 
peared to be only a watch word, that all might join in the hurra 
at once. Since this dinner, 1 am told by an Englishman, that this 
ceremonial is not uncommon at set formal parties in England, but 
1 never heard of it while there. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 353 



* 



The Canadians appear very loyal, and we cannot 
be a day in their country, without perceiving in the 
Janguage and manners of the people, that we are 
under a royal government. 

The mansion house, (originally built by Sir John 
Johnson,"^ son of Sir William Johnson, w'hose name 
was so famous in the colonies, during the French 
wars,) is the finest establishment of the kind in Can- 
ada, and would be considered as a fine one in Eng- 
land. The house, (as I remarked when here before,) 
is very large, with two wings, lately added, almost 
as extensive as the house itself, and contains ample 
accommodations for public or private parties, for 
balls and assem'blies, for individuals or families, and 
is delightfully situated, with its front upon the im- 
mediate bank of the St. Lawrence, where the river, 
and every thing upon it, and much of the surround- 
ing country, is in full view. 

!]ISTORY, Lc. 

Attei- the fall of Quebec, in September, 1759, 

Montreal became the rendezvous of the remaining 

forces of the French, and the Marquis Vaudreuille 

Governor-General of Canada, during the ensuing 

ummer of 1760, made every effort possible, to save 

^ W ho is still living in Montreal, although now nn old mar. 



354 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEG. 

the country. But, it was all in vain. The force 
which General Amherst commanded, was totally- 
superior to all that the French General could mus- 
ter. It was not, however, till September, that the 
conquest of Canada was fully accomplished. On 
the sixth of that month, General Amherst, with an 
army of more than ten thousand men, landed at La 
Chine, on the island of Montreal, having prosecuted 
his enterprise, under very great hardships and diffi- 
culties, through the wilderness, from Schenectady 
to Oswego, and down Lake Ontario, and the rapids 
of the St. Lawrence ; on the same day. General 
Murray arrived with his army, from Quebec, and 
the day after, General Haviland, with another ar- 
my from Lake Champlain, appeared at Longueil. 
Thus, by a singular concurrence, (devoutly regard- 
ed at the time, by the good people of the English 
colonies, as peculiarly the result of the favouring 
providence of God,) three powerful armies, amount- 
ing to more than twenty thousand men, arrived, al- 
most at the same hour, from regions widely remote, 
and after encountering peculiar, and great difficul- 
ties'. 

Nothing remained for the Marquis de Vaudreuille, 
surrounded, as he was, by an overwhelming force, 
but to capitulate. Accordingly, on the eighth, he 
•surrendered his army prisoners of war, and with 
them, the whole of Canada and its dependencies. 
The most honourable terms were granted to him, 
iU consequence of the signal gallantry, talent, perse- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q^UEBEC. 355 

verance, and patriotism, which he had displayed. 
** Thus, in little more than a century and an half 
from its first settlement, in the sixth year of the 
war, after six* general battles, this vast country was 
completely conquered by the conjoined armies of 
Great-Britain and her colonies. "f 

Montreal was taken by General Montgomery, on 
the thirteenth of November, 1775, but without op- 
position, except that a little before, Governor Carle- 
ton had been defeated at Longueil, by Colonel 
Warner, an event, which prepared the way for the 
dow^nfall of St. Johns, and of Montreal itself. 

This city has been, more or less, concerned in all 
the wars of this country, since its foundation ; but, I 
am not informed that any very memorable battle has 
been fought in its vicinity. It was never very strong- 
ly fortified, and, at present, there is not even the ap- 
pearance of fortifications ; the old walls and forts hav- 
ing been levelled, and even the Citadel-Hill, an artifi- 
cial mound, of commanding elevation, v/hich, with 
vast labour, the Prench had erected in the midst of the 
city, they are now in the act of removing, to make 
room for a reservoir of water. As at Quebec, I ob- 
served great piles of heavy cannon, but, probably 
they have reference principally to naval prepara- 
tions. 

* Those of Lake George, Ticonderoga, Niagara, MoutQiorenci, 
Quebec, and Silh-ry. 

tTrntnbnir.s History of Coiauecticut:. 



356 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOKD AND QUEBEC. 

There is a small body of troops here at present, 
and I had an opportunity of seeing some of them 
parade in the beautiful ground, called the Champs 
de Mars. There are extensive stone barracks on 
the St. Lawrence, at the lower end of the city ; they 
are occupied by the British troops, but, I presume, 
were erected by the French, as they are in their 
style of architecture. 

CAUXrON TO STRANGERS TN CANADA 

Soon after arriving on the St. Lawrence, almost 
every stranger finds his stomach and bowels derang- 
ed, and a diarrhoea, more or less severe, succeeds. 
The fact is admitted on all hands ; and sometimes 
the complaint becomes very serious, and is said, 
in a few cases, (very peculiar ones, I presume) 
to have become dangerous, and even fatal. It is 
imputed to the lime, supposed to be dissolved by 
the St. Lawrence, whose waters are generally used 
for culinary purposes. I have never heard that any 
chemical examination of the waters has been per- 
formed, but it is evident that it contains something 
foreign, because it curdles soap. It is said that boil- 
ing makes it harmless. The same thing is asserted 
of the waters of Holland, which produce similar ef- 
fects upon strangers. I have experienced it both in 

Holland, and in Canada ; and Mr. W was, 

in tlie latter country, more severely affected than 
myself. 



TOUR BETWEEN HAilTFORD AND <iUEBEC. 357 

Strangers from the United States, coming here 
should be very cautious of their diet, especially as 
the hours are so different from those that prevail in 
most of the states, and as they are even much later 
than those of our cities. The late dinners, and the 
conviviality of Canada, subject a stranger, (especially 
from the eastern States,) to be eating meats, and 
drinking wine, when he usually drinks tea, and his 
stomach has been, perhaps, before enfeebled by 
fasting, and is then eiifeebled again by repletion. 
The sour bread also appears to have its share in 
producing a derangement of the stomach. 

PECULIAR MODE OF EXTRACTJNG TEEiil. 

Severe suffering from my teeth, while in Mont- 
real, obhged me to resort to the usual painful rem- 
edy. It was rendered, however, in the present in- 
stance, much less distressing than common, by a 
mode of extraction, which I have never seen prac- 
tised elsewhere. 

A pair of strong hawks-bili forceps, bent at the 
mouth, gently downward, and then inward, and ter- 
minating in dehcate teeth, is applied to the tooth to 
be drawn ; no cutting of the gum is practised, nor 
any preparation, except simply to place a small 
piece of wood, (pine is commonly used,) between 
the forceps and the jaw, and close to the tooth ; 
this stick is the prop — the tooth is the weight 
to be lifted, and the hand applies the power just 

31 



358 TODK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q^USBEC*. 

at the end of the lever, that is, at the other end 
of the forceps. The pressure is applied downward, 
if it be the lower jaw, upward, if it be the upper 
jaw, and the tooth (withoutany thing of that horrible 
crash which attends the usual mode of extraction, 
without prying against the jaw, and thus creating 
danger of breaking it, besides producing much pain 
by the pressure on the sides of the socket,) is lifted 
perpendicularly from its bed ; there is no other vio- 
lence, than to break the periosteum, and the con- 
necting vessels and nerves, and the thing is effected 
with comparatively little pain. When it is desired 
simply to cut a tooth off, in order to plug it, it is ne- 
cessary only to compress the instrument, without 
prying. 

It may be supposed that the pressure against the 
jaw, by the prop, must be painful ; on the contrary, 
it is not felt, because the action, and re-action are 
exactly equal, between the pressure on the jaw and 
the resistance of the tooth. Dr. Fay, from Ver- 
mont, is the person who operates in this ingenious 
manner.^ 

CATHOLIC WORSHIP. 

This worship is fully maintained in Canada. 
It is said that the Catholics of this country even 
lay claim to a greater degree of purity and strict- 
ness, than those of old France. In other Cath- 
olic countries, they go from the church to the 

* I am aware, that thing has been attempted in other modes, 
hut I believe in noiieso siraule and effectual. 



TOUR BETWEEN HAilTFORD AND q,UEBEC. 359 

theatre, but it was stated to us in Montreal, that the 
Catholic priests do not permit their people to attend 
the theatres, and that it is very rare that a Cathohc 
is seen in them in Canada. 

We visited numbers of their houses of worship, 
and even in their villages, these houses are decorated 
with pictures, and considerably ornamented in their 
finishing. We never entered one of them, with- 
out finding people at their devotions. They 
cross themselves with holy water, and then, with 
much apparent seriousness, repeat their pra3^ers 
silently, moving their lips only. As in other Catho- 
lic countries, the people here are said to be very ig- 
norant of the scriptures, but, of this 1 can say noth- 
ing from personal knowledge. 

The Catholic cathedrals at Montreal and Que- 
bec, are splendidly ornamented with a profusion of 
pictures, images, and gilding, and the dresses worn 
by the Ecclesiastics and attendants in the cathedral 
in Montreal, are very showy and costly, being com- 
posed of silk, curiously embroidered, and flowered 
with many colours, and with gold. There was 
worship at this cathedral, before the hour of the 
Protestant service, and w-e were present a part of 
the time. The building is very large, but it was 
crowded to overflow^ing ; every alley and nook was 
filled, and the utmost attention and seriousness ap- 
peared in the congregation. The preacher pro- 
nounced a discourse* in French, in a very animated 

* His object was to reoommerd tl'C cxH'T^ple of Christ, to th« 
iiutp.lion of his aydlence- 



350 TOHR BETWEEN HAHTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

and impressive manner, and it was considered as an 
eloquent performance, and in very good classical 
French. His private character also was said to be 
excellent. 

Nine tenths of all the population here are Catholics, 
and, in every village, the cross is seen displayed in 
some conspicuous place ; it is commonly made of 
wood, and is frequently surmounted by a crown of 
thorns. The Catholic clergy of Canada, are highly 
spoken of by the Protestants, and, although there 
may be exceptions, they are said generally to exert 
a salutary influence over the common people. Ar- 
ticles of property which have been stolen, are fre- 
quently returned, unsolicited, to the proper own- 
ers, and that through the intervention of the priests. 
The Catholic Church in Canada is opulent. Its 
principal source of revenue is from the lodes et 
rentes, or fines of alienation, which is a certain per 
centage on the sale of real estate. It was stated to 
tis as being in Montreal eight per cent, on the sales 
of all real estate in the seigniory ; that is, in the 
whole island J which is thirty miles long by ten and 
a half wide. The Catholic Church* is the seignieur 
to this seigniory. The per centage is paid by the 
purchaser, and is repeated every time the estate is 
sold. This enormous charge is not, however, fully 
enforced ; the clergy arc glad to compound for five 

■■ Bo^ichette stales, (hat this proppriy belongs to the Seminary 
<if St. Sulpice, but this is, I s:ipj)osc, only another name for its be- 
longing to the clergV; who ore the fadiers and directors of the 
institiitioii. 



TOUR BETWEEN HAKTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 361 

per cent, and it is even, in some instances, evaded 
or refused altogether, and I believe it is rarely en- 
forced by law, although it is understood that the 
right is complete. Perhaps the clergy may feel a 
delicacy in prosecuting an unpopular claim, under a 
government, which, although it protects them fully 
in their rights, and exercises towards them a perfect 
toleration, is of a different religious order. It is a 
strange fact, not only that the Cathohcs of Britain 
and Ireland, but even other sectaries from the es- 
tablished church, do not experience, at home, any 
thing like the toleration which is enjoyed by the 
Catholics in Canada; rather, it would almost seem 

j as if the latter were, in Canada, the established 
church still, and that the Protestant Episcopal, and 
other denominations, were the tolerated sects. The 
present Speaker of the House of Commons in Low- 
er Canada, is a Catholic. 

I have already remarked that we attended wor- 
ship in a very large Episcopal Church recently 
erected, and although the building does honour to 
Montreal, it was by no means so well filled as the 
Catholic Cathedral. 

Indeed, it is wonderful that sixty years of sub- 

I jection to a foreign power have not done more to 
weaken the French establishments and institutions 
in Canada. They not only remain for the most 
part, but seem, in many instances, to have gained 
vigor, and every thing still bears a thousand times 
more the appearance of a French than of an Eng- 

31* 



362 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEC. 

iish country. This is not more apparent in any 
thing, than in the general prevalence of 



THE FRENCPI LANGUAGE. 

This is altogether the prevailing tongue of the 
towns, and the invariable language of the villages. 
In the streets, both in town and country ; in the 
steam boats ; in the markets ; and, in short, every 
where, you hardly ever hear any thing but French. 
All people of business, of education, of fashion and 
influence, speak both languages ; and we were in- 
formed, that the proceedings of all courts, and all 
pleadings and arguments in them, are carried on in 
both. The common people in the towns generally 
speak both ; many of those who come to market 
also ; but in the villages we more generally found 
that they spoke French only. 

It is conceded, I beheve, that the French gentry 
in Canada speak and write the language with purity. 
We heard an eminent French gentleman, at the ag- 
ricultural dinner, sing ^ God save the King' in 
French ; but it is often said, that the common 
French Canadians speak only a spurious and cor- 
rupted French, having only a remote resemblance 
to that of France. But there seems reason to doubt 

the correctness of this opinion. Mr. W , who, 

in youth, learned to speak the French language in 
France, not only found no difficulty in conversing 
with the common people — (and we had considers- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,URBEC. 363 

ble intercourse with them) — but he gives it as his 
opinion, that the French spoken by them is, if any- 
thing, more pure than that used by the country peo- 
ple of France, and that it is as good as the EftC'lisb 
spoken by the common classes of society in ilc 
United States. In many instances, the phraseolo- 
gy of the country people was considered as remark- 
ably apposite, and even, occasionally, elegant. I 
have already quoted the opinion of Charlevoix on 
this point ; and there seems to have been, in this 
respect, very little change, since his time. 



FRENCH POPULATIOiV— THEIR MANNERS, COSTUiME, 
VILLAGES, POLITICAL SITUATION, &c. 

Colonel Bouchette states the population of Low- 
er Canada at three hundred and thirty-five thou- 
sand ; and of this number, two hundred and sev- 
enty-five thousand are French.* It is, therefore, 
still a French country, and it is surprising, that in 
more than half a century so little impression has 
been made on their peculiar characteristics. 

In the lower province, where they are almost ex- 
clusively found, the soil is generally luxuriant 5 they 
inhabit, for the most part, the rich alluvial soil by 
which the St. Lawrence, the Sore], and other prin- 
cipal waters, are so extensively bordered. Their 
subsistence is easily obtained — there are scarcely 

*In 1663, it contained 700© souls ; in 1714, 20,000; in 1759, 
70,000; in 1775, 90,000, including Upper Canada— 5oKC,'i<;«e. 



564 TOUH BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

any marks of extreme poverty among them, and a 
mendicant we never saw while in the country. — 
They are, however, generally without enterprize, 
and are satisfied to go on without change, from gen- 
eration to generation. There is much reason to he- 
lieve, that they give a very just exhibition of the 
French people in the provinces from which they 
emigrated, as they were two hundred years ago. I 
speak of the common people. They are more like 
an European peasantry, than any thing in this conu- 
try ; I mean in North America. They are truly a 
peasantry, except that they are vastly superior to 
European peasantry in comforts and iu privileges. 

It is questionable, whether any conquered coun- 
try was ever better treated by its conquerors. They 
were left in complete possession of their religion, 
and of the revenues to support it ; of their property, 
laws, customs, and manners ; and even the very 
governing and defending of the country is almost 
without expense to them. They are said to pay 
no taxes to government, and none of any descrip- 
tion, except a trifling sum of a few shilhngs a year 
to their seigneurs, as an acknowledgment for the 
tenure of their lands, and a twenty-sixth part of 
their grain to the clergy, with certain liabilities to 
contribute to the repair of churches, and various 
other public objects. 

With the affairs of government they give them- 
selves little concern ; and it is a curious fact, if cor- 
rectly stated to us by various intelligent men iii 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOR:© AND QUEBEC. 365" 

Canada, that this country, so far from being a 
source of revenue, is an actual charge upon the 
treasury of the Empire. 

It would seem as if the trouble and expense of 
i;overnment were taken off their hands, and as if 
ihey were left to enjoy their own domestic com- 
forts, without a drawback. Such is certainly the 
appearance of the population, and it is doubtful 
whether even our own favoured communities are 
politically more happy. It is evident that the Ca- 
nadians are abundantly more so, than the mass of 
the English population at home. They are not ex- 
posed, in a similar manner, to poverty and the dan- 
ger of starvation, which so often invade the English 
manufacturing districts, and which formidable evils, 
aided by their demagogues, goad them on to every 
thing but open rebellion. 

Such is the richness of the soil in Lower Cana- 
da, that the farmers are said even to be afraid of 
raising too much produce, lest the price ghould fall. 
They have so little occasion to manure their 
grounds, that stable manure, as we were assured, is, 
in the winter — even now, and it was much more the 
fact formerly — carried on to the river, and left in 
heaps on the ice, that they may get rid of it as a 
nuisance ; and, in general, it cannot be given away 
— people will not remove it without being paid for 
their labour. Such negligence and bad farming 
are much to be regretted ; for even the Island of 
Montreal, beautiful as it is, would certainly be the 



366 TOUR BETWEEN ilARTFORI) AND (JUEBECo 

better for the manure wlilch is annually thrown 
away, and I trust their new agricultural society will 
soon teach the peojDle a better lesson on tiiis sub^ 
ject, and prevent their wasting so rich a treasure. 

In the costume of the French gentry in Canada, 
there is nothing peculiar. The peasantry frequent- 
ly wear a blue or red woollen cap, falling back in a 
pendant cone, and many of them wear a red or 
party-coloured woollen sash around their waists. 
They are very fond of tobacco, and are frequentl) 
observed smoking with a short pipe while they arc- 
walking or driving their carts. We were sufiicient- 
Jy amused, at seeing a common Frenchman driving 
a cart of dry straw in the streets of Montreal, while 
he was sitting immediately before it, smoking hi:< 
pipe quite unconcerned, although a strong w^ind v/as 
blowing the sparks directly towards the straw^ A 
day or two after we met another, also smoking, and 
with the utmost sang froid, sitting in the midst of 
his load of. straw. 

We visited a number of villages, and went into 
several houses of the peasantry, besides looking in- 
to many others particularly around Quebec, the 
delightful weather causing them to throw their win- 
dows wide open. Most of the cottages are con* 
^tructed of logs, nicely squared, and laid up, the 
angles are framed or halved together, the seams are 
made tight by plaister, good windows and doors are 
iitted in, the roofs are generally of shingles, the 
whole is tight against the weather, and neatly white- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 367 

washed, roof and all; at least, this Is commonly the 
fact on the St. Lawrence. I have already mentioned 
that the better sort of cottages are built of stone, 
sometimes covered with cement and sometimes not. 
Inside, the houses appear very comfortable ; ihey 
are plaistered or wainscoated, and each mansion is 
furnished with an ample stove, usually standing in 
the middle of a large room, or in the partition of 
two, or in the common angle of several. There 
are large out houses, barns, &:c. built in much the 
same manner as the houses. 

We had occasion several times to call at the 
houses of the peasantry for milk, or something else 
that we wanted. The milk was very rich, and for 
a trifle, was bountifully furnished. The manners of 
the French in Canada, are extremely courteous and 
kind ; those of the gentry are of course polished, 
but the common people, also, have a winning gen- 
tleness and suavity, and a zealous forwardness to 
serve you, which, particularly in the villages, de- 
lighted us very much. Even the common " oui 
Monsieur,^^ is uttered in a manner so different from 
the blunt coldness of our common people, who fre- 
quently also forget the Monsieur, that we were 
much struck with the difference.'^' 

The women, of course, excel the men, in all that 
is bland in manner and obliging in conduct ; there 
is also a lady-like self-possession about them ; they 

* We were treated with much kindness, by all classes of peo- 
; le in Gaiiada. 



36^ TOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (iUEBEC. 

do not appear at all embarrassed, by the questions 
of a stranger, but answer them with the ease and 
pohteness of higher Hfe, without rehnquishing the 
simphcity of manners appropriate to their own con- 
dition. It would seem from the citations which I 
have made from Charlevoix, that there have been, 
in these respects, no serious changes in a century. 
After our visit to the Chaudiere, being late and in 
haste, we asked for some milk at a peasant's door, 
without meaning to go an ; the milk was instantly 
produced, but, we must not drink it at the door ; 
" entrez Monsieur," " entrez Monsieur," was kind- 
ly repeated by the woman of the house, and we 
went in ; she seated us around a table and furnished 
us with a bowl of fine milk and with tumblers to 
drink it out of. 

Mr. W was much gratified to find that the 

manners of the peasantry of Canada, remained pre- 
cisely like those of France. Like the people of the 
parent country, they continue ver}' fond of music ; 
we frequently heard the violin in the streets of the 
towns and villages. At Beauport, we saw them 
dancing merrily at a w-edding, which had just been 
celebrated at noon day, and the bride and bride- 
groom were walking home, neatly dressed, hand in 
hand, and with a cheerful air. 

There are May poles in most of their villages ; 
some of them are very high and splendidly painted ; 
they voluntarily erect them as a mark of respect be- 
fore the door of the man in the village, whom they 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 369 

wish to honour as their best citizen, and gaily 
dance around them on the first of May. They 
are very fond of dogs — in the towns, they are, from 
their numbers, a perfect nuisance, and lately at Que- 
bec, a verdict of fifty pounds, was given by a jury, 
for the shooting of a dog by a gentleman at whom 
he flew. The death of the Duke of Richmond, 
seems not to have excited any particular dread of 
dogs. 

■X- * ■K- * -K- ^ ^ 

Lower Canada is a fine country, and wnll hereaf- 
ter become populous and powerful, especially as 
the British and Anglo-American population shall 
flow in more extensively, and impart more vigour 
and activity to the community. 

The climate, notwithstanding its ^severity, is a 
good one and very healthy, and favourable to the 
freshness and beauty of the human complexion. 
All the most important comforts of life are easily 
and abundantly obtained, although the expenses of 
living are high, considering the fertility of the 
country. 

A more correct knowledge of Canada, is now 
fast diiFusing itself through the American States, 
since the intercourse is become so easy, and I be- 
lieve few Americans from the States, now visit this 
country, without returning more favourably impress- 
ed, respecting it than they expected to i)e. It will 
be happy if friendly sentiments and the interchange 
32 



370 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

of miUiial courtesies shall do away the unfounded 
impressions and prejudices of both communities. 
Commercial intercourse between the two countries^ 
is also important, and I presume, mutually advan- 
tageous, and will probably continue to increase. 
The commercial men of Canada are principally 
British and Americans. 



DEPARTURE FROM CANADA. 

We left ^Montreal on the morning of the four- 
leenth, in a thick snow, which however, soon ceas- 
ed ; the crystals of snow were all single prisms, or 
two prism.s, united at an angle, and not the usual 
star of six rays. The first snow of the season fell 
the day before, when 1 was on the mountain of 
Montreal. 

The country and the appearance of the people 
between Montreal and St. Johns, on the river Sor- 
el, a distance of twenty-seven miles, are so similar 
to what I have already described, that I find little 
to add. 

From Montreal to Chambly, fifteen miles, is a 
perfectly flat alluvial country, with a deep rich soil, 
and appears to have been a mere swamp, till cul- 
tivation had redeemed it. The road has been made 
by ditching and embankment, and considering the 
nature of the country, the road is not bad. 

Chambly is a considerably large town, for Cana- 
da; contains a few good, and some handsome houses. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 371 

extensive barracks,* both for infantry and cavalry, 
and a few troops. 

There is here an intt^resting remnant of the old 
French dominion. It is a square fort of stone, 
probably forty feet high, and two hundred feet on 
ilie ground, on each of its sides. It has square 
lowers, projecting from each of its angles, so that 
every approach to it could be completely enfiladed _ 
by three tiers of cannon. We were permitted to 
visit the inside, which is a square open to the 
heavens, although the walls are so thick, as to con- 
tain numerous enclosed apartments. The French 
military works, in this country are highly respecta- 
ble, considering the immaturity of the country, when 
they were erected, and the length "of time that has 
elapsed since most of them were constructed. The 
fort, (or perhaps it might more properly be called 
the Castle) of Chambly has the date 1711, cut in 
the stone near the portculhs. This fortress w^as 
taken by General Montgonlery, in 1775, previous 
to the surrender of the Fort at St. Johns. 

At Chambly, the river Sorel, which, both aliove 
and below, is sluggish, (at least it is so, near its 
mouth and at St. John's) becomes very lively, roar- 
ing over a rocky bottom and forming a pretty, al- 
though not an impetuous rapid. In the only place 
upon its banks, where I had an opportunity to see 
any of the rocks, they were flat secondary lime- 
stone, covered by slate. 

* Erected, principallyj during the late war, when it was a great 
military station. 



372 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

Frora Chambly to St. Johns, twelve miles, there 
is a beautiful country, along the bank of the river ; 
the population is a numerous one, and in summer, 
this must be one of the finest rides that a flat coun- 
try can pi'esent. 

Near Chambly, but on the other side of the river, 
there is a large and handsome house, belonging to 
General Christie Burton, who has there an estab- 
lishment of mills. 

We arrived in the town of St. John's in the after- 
noon. We were very comfortably accommodated 
at Cameron's Inn ; but St. John's is a place in 
which a stranger will not wish to remain long. Al- 
though the country is fertile about it, its appearance 
is mean, dirty, and disagreeable. A few troops are 
stationed here, but the ancient fort, which was very 
extensive, and still looks very venerable, with its 
high earthen walls and falling barracks, is an inter- 
esting ruin. It w^as captured in 1775 by General 
Montgomery, after a gallant defence and a conside- 
rably protracted seige. 

This place was an important post during the 
French wars, and even during the revolutionary 
war : the same was true of Chambly, and both have 
been taken and retaken, although I do not remem- 
ber any very memorable event, that has signalized 
their transfer from one power to another. 

In wandering about the ruins of the fort, I ob- 
served the cemetery of the garrison : their monu- 
ments are boards painted black, and the inscription 
is in white painted letters. 



T0t5R BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, 373 

* * -K- -X- -X- ■}«■ * 

October I5th. — x\t 8 o'clock in the morning, we 
left St. John's in the steam boat Congress, and al- 
though encountering both an opposing wind and 
current, we swept along with great rapidity, in one 
of the swiftest and best boats that I have ever seen. 
She is not large, but is fitted up with great neat- 
ness, and every thing about her is in line order. 

We soon passed the Isle aux Noix, which, as 
observed in the passage down, has also been cele- 
brated in the military history of these countries, and 
is now fortified and occupied by a considerable 
force. Troops appeared to be engaged m throw- 
ing up additional works. There are large bar- 
racks on this island, and numbers of officers reside 
here, on this low spot of only eighty-five aci'es, in 
what appears to be a gloomy exile. This island i? 
particularly important to the naval command of 
Lake Champlain, and here the unfortunate Captain. 
Downie's squadron was fitted out. 

In passing into Canada, I remarked that the coun- 
try on both sides of the river, quite to the lake, is a 
dismal low swamp, with only inconsiderable clear- 
ings and settlements. It is said, however, to be 
healthy. 

At Rouse's Point, at the confluence of the river 
Sorel with Lake Champlain, we again passed the 
-trong stone work recently erected by the United 

32^- 



374 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 

States to command the river, and now about to fall 
to the British government. 

Once more we were in our own waters, and in a 
short time passed around Cumberland Head, which 
is composed of flat strata of secondary limestone. 

PLATTSBURGH BAY. 

The fine capacious Bay of Plattsburgh was now 
before us, and the pretty town of the same name. 
The important military events which have occurred 
here, are too recent and famihar to make any very 
particular notice of them necessary. This is still a 
military station, and when one sees the position oc- 
cupied by the British army before it in 1814, and 
contemplates their numbers, compared with the fee- 
ble force which so gallantly opposed them, he is as- 
tonished that they did not at once storm and carry 
the forts, and annihilate all opposition. -Every one 
here says that they mighty with the greatest ease, 
have done it.* We were on shore and visited some 
of the works. 

We learned the exact position of Commodore 
Macdonough's fleet, and passed over this portion of 
the bay. We conversed with numbers of persons 
who were witnesses of the action, and some of whom 
were on board immediately after it was terminated. 

* It doubtless would have been attempted, had the fleet been 
victorious ; but after its destruction, the acquisition of the fort? 
would perhaps have been of little use. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC 375 

We passed close to the small island, called Crab- 
Island, to which the dead and wounded of both fleets 
were carried, and which was the common grave of 
hundreds of friends and foes. The particular de- 
tails of the scenes of horror which attended and 
succeeded the battle — of the shocking mutilations 
of the human form, in every imaginable mode and 
degree, and of the appalling display on the beach, 
of so many bodies, dead and wounded, prepara- 
tory to their conveyance either to the hospital or to 
the grave, I shall, for very obvious reasons, omit. 
Even now, their bones, slightly buried on a rocky 
island, are partly exposed to viev/, or being occa- 
sionally turned up by the roots of the trees, blown 
down by the wind, shock the beholder ; and their 
buttons, and other parts of their clothes, (for the 
military dresses in which they were slain, w^ere also 
their winding sheets,) are often seen above ground. 
Long may it be, e'er the waters of this now peace- 
ful lake are again crimsoned with human blood ! 

One remarkable fact I shall mention, on the au- 
thority of an American surgeon, who attended upon 
the wounded of both fleets. The Americans re- 
covered much faster than the British, where their 
injuries were similar ; healthy granulations formed, 
and the parts united and healed moro readily. This 
was imputed to the difierent state of mind, in the 
victors and in the vanquished. 



376 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, 



ANECDOTES. 

A British officer in Canada, of his own accord, 
spoke to me in the highest terms of the American 
navy and of its officers. He mentioned Captain 
Hull particularly, with a frankness of commenda- 
tion, that was equally honourable to himself, and to 
the subject of his praise. He said that an officer 
of the Gaerriere, w4io was on board of that frigate 
when she was captured by Captain Hull, narrated 
to him the circumstance, to which I am about to 
allude. 

It will be remembered, that w^hen the two frig- 
ates descried each other, Captain Hull was stand- 
ing before the wind, and Captain Dacres upon it, 
under easy sail ; the tracks of the ships were in 
lines converging at a considerable angle, so that 
they would, of course, cross. When they were with- 
in long cannon shot, the Guerriere fired her broad- 
side, but it was not returned by the Constitution. 
The Guerriere then wore, and gave her antagonist 
the other broadside ; still the fire w^as not returned; 
but Captain Hull, with his ship in fighting trim, con- 
tinued to bear down upon his adversary, who, find- 
ing that he was thus pressed, continued, on his part, 
to wear and to fire, first one broadside and then the 
other ; to all this, however, Captain Hull paid no 



TOITR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEtiEe. 377 

attention, but pressed forward, till he was now very 
Bear. The Guerriere then put before the wind, 
and the Constitution followed on, directly astern, 
till finding that the Guerriere would outsail her, she 
spread more canvass, and then gained so fast upon 
the chase, that she was soon enabled to choose, 
whether she would lie across her stern, and rake her 
decks, or come along side at very close quarters, 
and thus be again exposed to her broadsides, from 
which, as yet, she had sustained but little damage. 
It was this crisis of the affair that excited so much 
admiration among the British officers ; for Captain 
Hull, instead of tearing his adversary to pieces, with 
comparative impunity, which, by tacking and lying 
across her stern, he might [according to the opinion 
of the British naval officer^) have easily done, wav- 
ed his advantage, and did not fire till, coming upon 
the larboard quarter of the Guerriere, he shot along 
side, and tlms gave his antagonist an opportunity 
to defend himself. *' It was the noblest thing, (ad- 
ded the British officer with whom I was convers- 
ing,) that w^s ever done in a naval conflict !" 

From the authentic accounts of this action, it is 
manifest that the gallant American had it in his pow- 
er to rake his adversary, and from whatever motives 
it might have been done, he actually waved the ad- 
vantage. If we do not charge it to his magnanimi- 
ty and generosity, it must, at least, go to the ac- 
count of his bravery, and his confidence (not un- 
warranted by the result) that he was able to subdue 



378 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AXD QUEBEC. 

the hostile ship, without avaihng himself of the ad- 
ventitious advantage which he enjoyed.* 

A gentleman at Montreal, mentioned to us, that a 
public dinner was given at Terrebonne, a small 
town a little way below Montreal, to Commodore 
Barclay, after his signal defeat by Commodore Per- 
ry on Lake Erie. Barcla}^, who was sadly cut to 
pieces by wounds, of which he was hardly recover- 
ed, and his remaining arm (for he had lost the oth- 
er before,) being suspended in a sling, gave as a 
volunteer toast, " Commodore Perry — the brave 
and humane enemy." Commodore Barclay then 
entered into a detailed account of Perry's treatment 
of himself, and of the other wounded and prisoners, 
who fell into his hands ; and in narrating the story, 
he became himself so deeply affected, that the tears 
flowed copiously down his cheeks. The audience 
were scarcely less moved ; and how could it be 
otherwise, when the speaker, who, but a few weeks 
before, had, without dismay, faced the tremendous 

''I have taken care to ascertain, from unquestionable authority, that 
the above dalement of facts is accurate. I understand, also, frooi 
the same authority, that the speedy fall of the masts of the Guer- 
liere was the effect of marksmanship, and not an accidental result 
of random firing. The crew of the Guerriere appear to have 
been, in some measure, disconcerted, by their previous efforts in 
wearing so often, and in firing so many broadsides, and by the 
.singularly cool and undaunted manner in which the Constitution 
bore down upon them. It is a fact that they fired badly, both as 
to rapidity and direction, and often did not even run their guns 
out of their port holes, but tore their own wooden walls with 
their own discbar";es. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 379 

cannonade of his enemy, could not now, without 
tears of admiration and gratitude, relate his deeds 
of kindness to himself and his companions, when 
suffering under wounds and defeat. O ! this was a 
nobler triumph for Perry, than the victory which 
God granted to his arms ! 

* * * 4f 4t * * 

Scarcely had we been gratified by the above 
anecdote, when the New-York newspapers, which, 
in our parlour at Montreal, we were cheerfully pe- 
rusing, informed us, that the brave, magnanimous, 
and gentle Perry, had fallen — not in battle on the 
water, but by a fever, in a foreign land. The news 
would have been sufficiently painful at home, but 
among strangers, and those who were so recently 
our public enemies, it gave us a severe shock : we 
not only felt that it was a public loss, but we nei- 
ther could realize, nor wished to, that it was not our 
own private bereavement. Few men of his age, 
have done more to serve and honour their country 
1 than Perry, although we must still regret that he 
gave his sanction to duelling. 
I 

•if * * * ^ * * 

After a rapid sail across the lake, and seeing the 
Ispot where the Phoenix was burnt, and, at a greater 
(distance, the rocky channel through which General 
jArnold, in 1776, escaped the pursuit of the British 



380 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (iUEJBEG. 

fleet, we arrived, early in the morning, at Burling- 
ton, where the carriage was in waiting to receive us. 
Before leaving the steam-boat Congress, I will 
remark, that, under the auspices of her present 
commander, the younger Captain Sherman, who 
also commanded the Phoenix when she was de- 
stroyed, vigorous measures have been adopted to 
prevent a recurrence of a similar accident, and that 
we were much pleased with his management of the 
boat. 

BLRLINGTON, IN VERMONT, TO HANOVER, IN NEW- 
HAMPSHIRE, S4 MILES. 

We were on the road three days, and, as it is 
not remarkably interesting, except for its wild Al- 
pine scenery, I shall give but a sketch of it. 

Burlington is one of the most beautiful villages in 
New-England. It stands on a bay, of the same 
nune, is a port of entry, and has a population of 
probably nearly two thousand. Rising rapidly 
f om the lake, and occupying the declivity and top 
of a high hill — abounding with elegant houses — 
generally large, and painted white — having several 
handsome public buildings, and (the most conspicuous 
and commanding of them all,) a college, situated on 
the most elevated ground, three hundred and thirty 
feet above the surface of the water ; the impressions 
which it makes on a stranger, are very agreeable, 
and the more so, as it is scarcely forty years since 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 381 

iiis region was a wilderness. Its buildings are, a 
r.Qiirt-house, a jail, an academy, a college, two hand- 
some houses of public worship, one hundred and 
sixty dwelling-houses, and forty-three stores, offices, 
and mechanics' shops. It is the most commercial 
place on the lake.'^ 

The college edifice, is a brick building, one hun- 
dred and sixty feet long, from forty-five to seventy- 
five wide, and four stories high. This institution 
was founded in 1791, under the appellation of the 
University of Vermont. The building is commo- 
dious; it contains about fifty private rooms, and 
good public apartments. This edifice stands in a 
most delightful situation, and from the top of it, to 
which I ascended, there is a grand and extensive 
prospect, although, in the present instance, it v/as 
ubscured by a fog. The number of students v/as 
stated to me, by one of the tutors, to be from thirtv 
to forty. It is well known that, in the Vermont re- 
public of letters, there is a dimsum Imperium, and 
that the two rival institutions of Middlebury and Bur- 
lington, have long contended for preeminence. 

It does not become a stranger to make any other 
i/emark, than that, in a state of no greater population, 
ihe united efforts of all the friends of learning ai'e not 
more than sufficient to sustain one institution, as it 
ought to be supported ; it is to be hoped therefore, 
that Vermont may, in due time, combine all her ef- 
forts, and blend her two institutions into one. 
* Worcester's GazeUeer. 

33 



oSz TO an BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^^UEBEC. 

Burlington college has a library of about eight or 
rjine hundred volumes, and a small apparatus. It 
is but just recovering from a state of partial disor- 
ganization, produced by the late war, when, for a 
season, the building was occupied by troops of the 
United States, and Mars put the muses to flight. 
The concession, however, it was understood, w^as 
not compulsory, and was handsomely paid for by 
the general government. The i^aculty, when full, 
consists of a President, five professors, and two tu- 
tors. At present, there is a President,"^ one profes- 
sor, and, I believe, two tutors, who constitute the 
actual faculty of the institution. 

It is worth a journey across the green mountains> 
which occupy almost the entire breadth of Ver- 
mont, and from which the state derives its name, to 
see the grand views which they present. 

There is, in fact, a succession of mountains, one, 
tw^o, three, and four thousand feet high; not here and 
there a single peak, but a vast billowy ocean, sw-elled 
into innumerable pointed waves, and bold ridges, 
and scooped into deep hollows. 

There were but few^ precipices of naked rock ; 
most of the sides of the mountains were in full for- 
est, and the varied hues of the leaves of the maple 
and oak, now beginning to receive the first influence 
of frost, w^ere finely contrasted with the bright ev- 
ergreens. 

*TheRev. Dr. Austin, 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEC. 383 

According to the barometrical measurements of 
Captain Partridge, the Camel's Rump, twenty m.iles 
east by south from Burlington, is about four thou- 
sand"* feet high, and many others approach this ele- 
vation. 

The day was somewhat obscured by rain, mist, 
and clouds, which, while they did not screen the 
mountains from our view, added a gloomy grandeur 
to the scene, and seemed the appropriate drapery 
of such Alpine regions. 

Most of the country is still unsubdued by the 
plough. Innumerable stumps, the remains of tlie 
pristine forest, deform the fields — pines, and oth- 
er trees, girdled, dry, and blasted, by summer's 
heat, and winter's cold — scorched and blackened, 
by fire, or piled in confusion, on fields, cleared, 
half by the axe, and half by burning — numerous 
log houses, of a rude construction, and incompara- 
bly inferior to the snug cottages of the Canadian 
peasantry — all these, and many other objects, indi- 
* ate a country, in some parts at least, imperfectly 
subdued by man. 

Along the Onion river, however, and its branch- 
es, we found much clear, good land ; on the sides 
of the mountains, many fields fit for pasturage, 
and, almost every where, fine cattle and sheep, 
but very little ploughed land; every few miles also, 
we came to good houses, and a few villages, occurred 
on the journey. 
* Three llion<a:id foiii- liiindrcd. — Worcestoi-'s Gazetteer. 



384 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

At Montpelier, in a low valley, forty miles fi'om 
the lake, we found the legislature of Vermont con^ 
vened. 

Monpelier is a small, and rather neat village, of 
about one hundred families ; the township, in which 
it is situated, contains nearly two thousand people ; 
but this place is so secluded, that it seems as if the 
government had sought retirement, more than pub- 
licity, in fixing itself here. It is probable, however, 
that it was rather a regard to a central position, 
as this place is only ten miles from the centre of the 
State. 

At a little village, where we attended public wor- 
ship, in a very stormy day, we found a very thin 
congregation, but, in a new house, of considerable 
size, and much ornamented within, although, in 
what would, perhaps, be by some, esteemed an er- 
roneous taste. It was, however, honourable to the 
public spirit of the vicinity. 

We were much impressed in Canada, with the de- 
vout appearance of the Catholics in their religious as- 
semblies, and cannot but think, that, in this respect, 
they have the advantage, not only of most of the 
Protestant congregations, in which we have been 
present during our journey, but also of the greater 
part of those, with which we have been, elsewhere, 
conversant, in Protestant countries. 

The Canadian Catholic seems, at least, to be de- 
vout, while, in our Protestant assemblies, how often 
do ^ve s^e. if not levity, at least vacancy, languor. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 385 

and apathy, and how few appear to be, really in ear- 
nest. If we say that the Catholic is so in appear- 
ance only, he may reply, with a force which it will 
not be easy to obviate, that there is no reason what- 
ever to infer the reality^where there is not so much 
as the external decorum of worship. 

The roads were good through our whole journey 
\o Hanover, except the effects of recent rains, and 
considering the mountainous nature of the country. 

Wherever practicable, they have followed the riv- 
>;r courses along the alluvial bottoms, and, where 
ihey have w^ound around the hills, it is done with 
great skill and judgment. Very frequently, v/e rode 
for miles, on precipices, where the descent was, for 
a great many yards down, almost perfectly abrupt, 
and a slight deviation would have been fatal. 

When we arrived at the height of land, which was 
about sixty miles from the lake, the streams, now 
tending towards the Connecticut, indicated our 
course, and, for six or seven miles, w^e descended with 
great rapidity, the carriage almost constantly urging 
the horses forward, and, at last, we found lodgings 
in the beautiful valley of Chelsea, completely envi- 
roned by mountains, which, being free from wood, 
and prettily dotted, here and there, with flocks of 
sheep, reminded me powerfully of the Derbyshire 
?cenery. 

The village was very neat, with one of the best 
inns which we had seen ; we were received with the 
kindness of a home, and with almost all its comforl^. 

33* 



386 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

The next day, (October 18th,) we arrived ai 
Hanover, in New-Hampshire, having crossed the 
Connecticut river, from the pretty town of Norwich, 
on a bridge. 



GEOLOGV. 

The geology of the region over which we had 
passed, is simple and grand. About seven miles 
east of the lake, the primitive country begins, and 
the fixed rocks, running in immense ledges, north- 
east, and south-west, often vertical, or highly in- 
clined in their position, and with a dip generally to 
the east, are principally mica slate, gneiss, clay 
slate, and chlorite slate. Mica slate is, far, the 
most, abundant. In some of these schistose rocks, 
hornblende prevails, but I observed no granite in 
place. Granite, however, in loose rolled pieces, 
some of them weighing many tons, prevails for the 
last forty miles ; there is enough to build several cit- 
ies; it is very handsome, has a fine grain, the feldspar 
is white, the quartz grey, and the mica black, and it is 
used along the road as a building stone ; but w^e can 
discern no source whence it was derived, nor could I 
learn that there were ruj Jixed rocks of the kind in 
this region. 

I am informed that the famous Chelmsford gran- 
ite, so much used in Boston, as a building stone, 
and which this Vermont granite strongly resembles, 
is found loose, like this, and that no quarry of it i? 
known. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 3ST 

In Vermont, these masses of granite have every 
appearance of having been brought down from more 
*^levated regions, for they are observed in deep val- 
lies, and on the ])anks, and in the beds of water 
courses, and on the declivities, and even high up 
on the sides of mountains. But they are rolled and 
rounded ; most of them approach the globular 
form, and all have their angles and edges worn 
away. Was this done in the primitive chaotic 
ocean, which alone could afford time for such an 
agency, and may they not even have been trans- 
ported from a distant region, and scattered over a 
country to which they are strangers f 

HANOVER. 

Oct. IS. — This handsome village, of about sixty 
liouses^ is an agreeable object to a traveller. It is 
built principally upon a small hollow square, which 
is a beautiful green. Most of the houses are very 
neat, and some are large and handsome. The great- 
er part are painted white, and have that lively ap- 
pearance, so common in the villages of New-Eng- 
land. 

DARTiMOUTH COLLEGE. 

This well known, and highly respectable and use- 
ful institution, founded in 1769, by royal charter, 
occupies one side of the square. The principal 



388 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, 

building, which is of wood, is one hundred and i\i\y 
feet by fifty, and three stories high ; it is painted 
white. Besides thirty-four private rooms for the 
students, it contains all the public rooms, except 
those for the medical lectures, and the chapel. — 
The latter is a small plain building, of wood, stand- 
ing in the position of a wing to the college. The 
medical lectures are given in a separate edifice, built 
of brick, a little out of the square, and devoted en- 
tirely to medical purposes. The building is not 
large, but sufficient for a school of fifty or sixty pu- 
pils, w^ho usually assemble here during the season 
of the lectures, which continues twelve weeks, from 
the first Wednesday of October. The building 
would receive more, so far as its public rooms are. 
concerned. The anatomical museum is small. 

The number of medical professors is, at present, 
three. There is the same number* in the academ- 
ical establishment, who, with the president,f and two 
tutors, constitute the faculty. The number of stu- 
dents at present, is about one hundred and fifty, and, 
since the termination of the recent contest, by which 
the old college has been confirmed in its powers, it 
appears to be flourishing more than before. During 
that contest, arid v/hile the buildings were in posses- 
sion of the other party, it is said that they were con- 

* If I am correctly informed, one other professorship is at pres- 
ent vacant. 

i August, 1820. — This institution has recently been deprived, by 
death, of its exoellent head} President Brown. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 389 

siderably injured ; they are not now in the best 
state of repair, although it was stated that one thou- 
sand dollars had been expended upon them, since 
their restoration to their present possessors. 

The library contains about four thousand vol- 
umes. The apparatus of this institution is not the 
most extensive, but is competent to the most impor- 
tant purposes of instruction. There are two libra- 
ries, of about two thousand volumes each, belonging 
to private societies, among the students. 

There is a separate building for commons, but, at 
present, none are maintained ; the students board 
in the vfflage, and many of them occupy apartments 
in it. I was informed, that it is optional with them 
to have rooms in college, or out, but their rooms 
are, in both cases, visited by the faculty, and, ow- 
ing, without doubt, to the smaliness of the place, no in- 
convenience is experienced from the fact, that a 
part of them are in town, 

RIDE DOWN CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

Oct. 19. — We passed down the New^-Hampshire 
side of the river, eighteen miles, and then crossed 
into Vermont, at the beautiful town of Windsor, 
containing two thousand seven hundred fifty-seven 
inhabitants.* 

There was nothing particularly interesting in the 
intervening country. Windsor is built upon two 

* WorceslPr's Gazetteer. 



390 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 

principal streets, parallel to each other, and to thfe 
river, and, in the lower street, shews something of 
the bustle of business; the upper street is very qui- 
et, and both are ornamented by very handsome 
houses, many of them of brick, giving an air of dig- 
nity and elegance to a small town. There are also 
two handsome churches, a court-house, an academy, 
and a state's prison. 

The town has a magnificent back ground, in the 
high mountain Ascutney, measuring three thousand 
three hundred and twenty feet, above the sea, and two 
thousand nine hundred and three, above the surface 
of the river.f The form of the mountain is hand- 
some, and presents naked rocks, at its summit. 

From Windsor, we passed down the Vermont 
side of the river, to Charlestown, where we again 
crossed into New-Hampshire. 

We saw, on our ride, the establishment of Mr. 
Jarvis, formerly a consul abroad. He has a very 
extensive farm, and an entire village, named Wetb- 
ersfield, is owned by him, and occupied by his ten- 
ants. We passed the night at Charlestown. 

This is another village remarkable for beauty. It 
is built upon one street, which is very wide, and, 
for nearly a mile, the houses are planted at distan- 
ces, convenient both for neighbourhood and accom- 
modation. 

t Accordins; to Cajitotii Partridge's megtsiitetnent. This gentle- 
man is establisliiiig a militiiry acrtdoiDy at Norwich, opposite to 
Hatiovcr, and a large bir!!(lii)§;.is now erectirjg for tliis j)urpose. 



TOUR BETWEEx^^ HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEC. 391 

Here, as at Windsor, a large proportion are very 
handsome, and tiiere is an extreme degree of neat- 
ness in the fields, gardens, and door yards. The 
verdure being still fine, notwithstanding the period 
of the year, was charmingly contrasted with the bril- 
liant white of the houses. 

From Hanover to this place, the river Connecti- 
cut flows in a narrow channel, in most places so 
confined by very high ground, and sometimes by 
mountains, that it seems to run in the only possible 
place, and the channel appears, as if it had been cut 
by art, and laid with exquisite skill, through an al- 
most impervious country. Rarely do the precipi- 
tous banks retire, so as to leave any meadows, or 
llat lands upon the border, and the co^intry appears 
not remarkably fertile. The pines still occupy a 
considerable portion of it, but most of the large 
ones are cut away; here and there, an ancient tree, 
still raises its head to the winds, and towers above 
its compeers. In many parts of this region, very for- 
midable fences are made by pulling up the stumps 
of the gigantic pine trees, and arranging them in a 
row^, with their roots interlocked. 

GEOLOGY. 

The geology of this district is very simple. — 
At Hanover, the rocks appear to be a variety of 
gneiss, with so large a proportion of hornblende, as 
to become almost hornblende slate ; and doubtless, 



392 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEe. 

in some instances, lliey become decidedly that rock; 
distinct veins of crystallized hornblende intersect the 
.rock, and it abounds in garnets remarkable for beau- 
ty ; their angles are extremely well defined— their 
surfaces highly polished, and their colour almost as 
fine as tiiat of the Spinelle Ruby. I have seen no 
such garnets, from the rocks of this country. 

From Hanover, w6 pass along in the direction of 
the ledges of rocks, which form the hills, bounding 
the river ; we no longer cross them, as in travelling 
over the green mountains, and it is not always easy, 
in driving rapidly by, or with the opportunity of 
only a very hasty examination, to pronounce confi- 
dently on their nature. 

This may, however, be said, without hazard, that 
ihey are all primitive slaty rocks, generally highly 
inclined, or vertical. 

Leaving Charlestown, we passed by its rich and 
extensive meadows, commencing just below the 
town, and extending nearly to Bellows Falls, a dis- 
tance of eight miles. They were still very verdant, 
and rich in herds of fine cattle. 



BELLOWS FALLS. 

This place is worth visiting, both for its bold and 
picturesque scenery, and for the interesting nature 
of its mineralogy and geology. 

On approaching Bellows Falls from the north, 
the traveller is first struck by the elegant appear- 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORi> AxVD Q^UEBiX. 59^ 

ance of the small village of Rockinghcim, situatetl 
on the Vermont side of the river, upon ground 
pleasantly elevated. A neat church, semi-gothic, 
and several seats of gentry, who have clustered about 
these falls, are finely contrasted with the wildness 
and rudeness of the surrounding scenery. On the 
N^ew-Hampshire side, a very high ridge of moun- 
tain rock, I presume five or six hundred feet above 
ihe level of the river, forms its immediate barrier, 
[here being only just room for a narrow road be- 
iween it and the Connecticut. Immediately at the 
"bot of this frowning and impending mountain, is an 
elegant establishment, belonging to a gentleman, 
tvho seems not to feel what every observer must 
Iread, that his house may be crushed by falling rocks. 

Bellows Falls are very much unlike any thing of 
;be kind which we have seen on our journey. They 
ire rather a grand and violent rapid than a cataract, 
Droperly so called, for, in no place that I saw, did 
he water fall perpendicularly for any great distance, 
riie river is, at this place, very much compressed 
)etween ledges of rocks, and, for nearly a quarter 
>f a mile, it is hurried on w^ith vast rapidity, and tu- 
nult, and roaring. In the whole, it falls fifty feet,'^ 
)efore it becomes again placid. 

The bridge, which stands immediately over the 
alls, and at the most rapid, that is to say, at the 
larrowest place, is a handsome object. Its fouuda- 

** Worcester's Gazetteer 

34 



394 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEC. 

tion is literally a rock, for it is erected not only up- 
on the precipices which form the banks, but upon 
the very ledges which interrupt the course of the 
river, and rise calmly, out of the turbulent scene 
that surrounds them. This is said to have been 
the earliest bridge erected over the Connecticut, 
and the view of the falls from it, is very interesting. 
The water, which for some way above, comes rush- 
ing over and among very rugged rocks, arrives in an 
extremely agitated state at the bridge, under which is 
the grand pass ; for the stream is here narrowed into 
the width of apparently twenty or thirty feet, and 
rushes through with great rapidity ; not, how^ever, 
in the compressed state described by the apocry- 
phal historian of Connecticut.* It is all foam, and 
both immediately above and below the bridge, re- 
sembles the most violent breaking of the weaves of 
the ocean, when dashed upon the rocks, by a furious 
tempest. A Httle below the bridge, the river is 
again hurried on, between two salient points of rock, 
in a place so narrow, that one may easily toss any 
thing to the other side : the angry surges here 
struggle through with vast commotion, and rise, in 
white crested waves, the very sight of which make? 
one's head giddy. 

Bellows Falls, as a piece of scenery, are peculiar, 
on account of a certain snugness, which marks the 
entire collection of mountains, rocks, and river-tor- 

* Peters : who says that the water is here so dense that it cjui- 
not be pierced by a crowbar. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 395 

lent, and pretty houses, which are all approached 
without the shghlest inconvenience, and are com- 
prised within a very small compass. On the west 
side there is a canal half a mile long, around the 
falls ; it has nine locks. 



GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY. 

The rocks at this pass are sienite, mica slate, and 
a peculiar aggregate of mica and feldspar, very 
much resembling sienite. The strata run in the 
same direction as the great mountain ranges in th^ 
vicinity, only they are very low ; the torrent ap- 
pears as if it had once broken through, and very 
possibly there might, anciently, have been a lake 
above this place. 

I would strongly recommend a particular exam- 
ination of the rocks about Bellows Falls. The few 
moments which I had to spend, I occupied in in- 
specting the ledges on the Vermont side, and below 
the bridge. They appear to be sometimes over- 
flowed, for they contain numerous excavations, evi- 
dently worn by the water, agitating the pebbles and 
stones, and, as long as the freshet lasts, whirling them 
with incessant motion. Numbers of these cavities, 
both here and at the bridge, are of considerable di- 
mensions ; some are cylindrical, others are shaped 
like cauldrons, and are large enough to serve that 
purpose. 

In the rocks alluded to, there are numerous veins, 
some of them a foot wide or more. The veins are 



396 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

quartz or feldspar, or more frequently, they are 
proper granite veins. In them I observed violet or 
rose coloured mica, and that of a straw yellow ; 
feldspar resembling tlie adularia ; garnet ; tourma- 
tin, both the common black schorl, and the indico- 
lite, and talc. In loose rocks there was also abun- 
dance of tremolite and of sappar. There can be httle 
doubt that a few blasts of gunpowder would uncov- 
er fine fresh specimens of these interesting miner- 
als. 

-X- * * jf * ■X' 4e 

From Bellows Falls, we passed down to Wal- 
pole. This is another handsome village ; some of 
the houses are splendid. 

Putney, on the Vermont side, presented nothing 
particularly interesting. 

We reached Brattleborough at evening, and there 
pabj'^d the night." 

In Dummerston I saw a great slate quarry : the 
strata were vertical, and the excavation was like a 
deep canal, so that as I walked into it, the perpen- 
dicular strata formed a perfect wall on both sides, 
and I trod on their edges. It was a fine example of 
primitive roofing slate ; and from this place and the 
vicinity, at Brattleborough, &ic. it is extensively 
quarried, and carried down the river. 

In speaking of the villages on Connecticut river, 
[ often use the epithets beautiful, handsome, &;c. till 



TOVR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 397 

they are in danger of becoming trite. Stiil I must 
repeat them with respect to the eastern* village ol' 
Brattleboroiigh. 

This village is built principally upon one street, 
and contains very few houses or shops that are not 
an ornament to the place. The street is parallel to 
the river, and passes through luxuriant meadows, 
spreading into an extensive champaign, bounded 
by the Connecticut, which here, for miles, washes 
the base of a grand mountain-barrier, that limits the 
view on the east. This view was best seen in re- 
trospect, as we rose the hill, at the south end of the 
town. Thence we saw this mountain-range, prob- 
ably here one thousandf feet high, covered with the 
richest drapery of the forest, and stretching away 
to the north, while the Connecticut, gently washed 
its foot, and the pretty village, with its white houses 
and brilliant church, rose in the midst of a rich 
meadov\r. 

But, the most interesting object inBrattleborough, 
is its venerable pastor, with whom, at his pleasant 
rural abode, we had the honour of an evening in- 
terview. At the age of 75, he has recently return- 
ed from England, his native country, after a visit of 
eighteen months. He had been absent from Eng- 
land twenty-five years, and found, on returning to 
his native town, which, (except occasional visits,) 

* The other village I did not see. 

t This is a conjec'iure merely : I know not of any measure* 
ment. 

34* 



398 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q.UEBEC« 

he left sixty-three years since, that hut one person 
remembered him. Even the monuments of his co- 
temporaries in the grave yard, vi^ere so moss-grown, 
that he could not read the inscriptions, and those of 
the persons who had died more recently, he did not 
know. He found, however, many friends in vari- 
ous parts of England, who remembered him with 
affection. The country appeared to him greatly 
improved, and to exhibit the most decided proofs of 
a thriving condition ; but his adopted country he 
greatly prefers, and gladly returned to end his days 
in it. 

The venerable man, at once an instructive and 
delightful Mentor, entertained us with many of the 
incidents of his tour, the relation of which was 
enlivened by the most interesting remarks. 

He is like the aged oak, whose boughs are still 
adorned w^ith leaves, and whose root is still firm in 
the ground, although it has endured the vicissitudes 
of many revolving summers and winters. 

******* 

October 2\st. — We left Brattleborough in the 
morning, and eleven miles below, crossed the bridge 
into Northfield, in Massachusetts. 

Northfield is a neat village, on a wide street situ- 
ated on a hill, but the houses are plain ; the place 
had, however, an air of comfort and snugness. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC 399 
GEOLOGY, &oC. 

In this street, a very interesting change was ob- 
served in the geology. Rocks occurred both loose 
and in place, composed of fragments ; they were of 
every size, from a foot or even several feet in diam- 
eter, down to small grains. These fragments were 
evidently the ruins of primitive rocks : — entire pie- 
ces of granite, with all its constituent parts distinct ; 
of gneiss, mica slate, chlorite slate, common slate, 
he. were interspersed, and the cement which bound 
them together, was merely the same materials, re- 
duced to a finer state. These rocks are very in- 
structiv^e. Coming immediately after the primitive 
country, and indeed in close connexion with it, and 
being composed of fragments of primitive rocks 
confusedly jumbled together, they appear to lay 
strong claims to a transition character. 

Passing down through Northfield into Montague, 
we came to extensive ranges of primitive rocks, 
chiefly gneiss ; but in them occurred great beds of 
granite, the first that I had seen in place on our 
whole journey. Primitive rocks continued to the 
upper lock of Miller's Falls : the canal here, is cut 
through a coarse conglomerate, composed of frag- 
ments of primitive rocks. 

The scenery at this place is handsome ; and at 
the confluence of Miller's River with the Connect- 
icut, the latter forms a great bow, and looks like a 
lake surrounded by high hills. 



400 TOtTR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 

Several miles below, we came to Miller's Falls. 
The river runs nearly north-west, and is precipitated 
over the strata, which at this place cross the river, 
and form a natural dam. In the middle of the riv- 
er, the rocks rise so high that they form an island, 
and the torrent is therefore divided, as at Niagara. 
Through the whole width, which is one thousand 
two hundred feet, there is an artificial dam of tim- 
ber, built upon the natural one. The fall thus be- 
comes thirty feet, and is. very beautiful in its kind. 
It is in fact, a vast mill-dam, and is said to be a very 
good miniature of Niagara. The whole scene is a 
fine one, and was so different from either of the 
other falls that we had seen, that it was an agreea- 
ble addition. 

The object of damming these falls, is to feed with 
water, the canal which is cut around them, and to 
render the current for three miles above, less rapid. 
This canal is two miles long, and we rode along its 
bank, to its junction with the Connecticut. 

The rocks which form the natural dam at Miller's 
Falls, are composed of fragments of primitive rocks; 
but generally these fragments are not large, rarely 
exceeding an inch or two in diameter, and general- 
ly smaller than that. The strata have an inchna- 
tion of forty-five degrees, and have every mark of 
the earliest class of fragmented rocks. Are they 
not a variety of Greywacke ? Their direction is 
nearly north-east and south-west. 



XOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 401 
* * * * -5^ * * 

We crossed the Connecticut again, at the place 
where, by completing its great bend, it returns to its 
usual direction of north and south. 

We now arrived in the town of Greenfield, and 
on ascending the hill from the river, I saw, for the 
first time, in this part of the country, trap rocks in 
place. They here constitute an extensive range, ex- 
tremely well characterized, and, (agreeably to Mr. 
Hitchcock's excellent account of the geology of this 
vicinity,*) form, very nearly^ the northern extremity 
of the great trap ranges, which commence at New- 
Haven and cross completely both the States of 
Massachusetts and Connecticut.f 

The fragmented rocks, which in nearly the whole 
of this range, lie beneath the trap, I here had the 
pleasure of seeing emerge from under it, at a 
high angle of inclination, and at a high elevation, on 
the side next to the village of Greenfield. 

******* 

From the hill in question, we had a fine view of 
this village, which stands principally on two inter- 
secting streets ; has a number of handsome houses, 
and, for a country town, an uncommon proportion 

* See American Journal of Science, vol. 1. 

f The same that, in sketching the scenery in the middle region 
•f Cofioecticut, were described early in this volume. 



402 TOrR BETWEEN HARTFOKD AND QUEBEC. 

of brick buildings. Walpole also has a number, 
and Windsor a larger number than either. 

Greenfield stands two miles from Connecticut 
river, on a high plain, which declines gently to the 
west. It has handsome churches, a court-house, a 
jail, he, 

DEERFIELD. 

Just at evening, v/e drove over to Deerfield, a dis- 
tance of three miles, through the most luxuriant and 
beautiful country, that we had any where seen in 
our whole journey. This country is the fine allu- 
vial region, intersected by the Deerfield river, and 
probably formed by it, as the alluvial countries on 
rivers generally appear to be. Even now, in the 
latter part of October, the grass is most vividly 
green, thickly matted, and rich as the shag of 
velvet. The remains of the crops of corn, evinced 
also great productiveness, and seemed almost to re- 
alize the fables of the golden ages. 

We were comfortably lodged in a good inn, just 
in time to visit, before dark, a very interesting anti- 
quity in this town. 

In the early periods of the history of the New- 
England colonies, Deerfield, being for a long course 
of years, a frontier town, was very often attacked 
by the French and Indians from Canada, and its 
inhabitants were frequently slain, or carried into 
captivity. 



TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qUEBEC. 403 

To guard against these attacks, an extensive fort 
was established, inckiding within its hoiiis, many of 
the houses, and forming a place of retreat and of 
security for the inhabitants. 

In February, 1704, this fort was, by the negli- 
gence of the sentinel, surprised and taken, just be- 
fore day light, and the inhabitants were aroused 
from their slumbers, by the furious attacks of cruel 
enemies, upon their defenceless dwelHngs. Most 
of the houses were burnt, and their wretched ten- 
ants were either dragged away into captivity, or 
slaughtered in their own habitations, or near them. 
Men, women, and children, were indiscriminately 
slain, and parents saw their little ones butchered be- 
fore their eyes. 

One house still remains, as a painful memento to 
posterity. The front door was hacked and hewn 
with hatchets, until the savages had cut a hole 
through it ; through this hole they fired into the 
house ; this door, which still bears its ancient 
wounds, and the hole, (closed only by a board, tack- 
ed on within,) remains now, as the savages left it, 
and is a most interesting monument. 

Through the windows they also fired, and one 
bullet killed the female head of the family, sitting up 
in bed, and the mark of that bullet, as well as of 
four others, is visible in the room ; in one of the 
holes in a joist, another bullet remains to this day. 
This family was all killed, or carried into captivity. 



404 TOUR BETWEEN UARTFOKD AND ttUEBEt. 

In the same attack, the clergyman of the place, 
the Rev. John Williams, and his family, shared a 
similar fate. Two of the children were killed at 
the door, Mrs. Williams, their mother, in the mead- 
ows, a little way out of town, and Mr. Williams, 
and the rest of the family, were carried prisoners to 
Canada. 

We saw, in the museum, in Deerfield academy, 
the pistol which he snapped at the Indians, when 
they rushed into his bed room. 

Mr. Williams* lived many years after his return, 
and I saw his grave, and that of his murdered wife. 
On the latter, is a very proper inscription, which 1 
regret that I omitted to copy. 

****** * 

Deerfield is a plain venerable town, with good 
buildings, but not many of them are in the modern 
style ; this circumstance is, however, rather pleas- 
ing, than otherwise. 

Deerfield extends about a mile on one street ; it 
has a highly respectable academy, the finest mead- 
ows in New-England, and a very interesting ancient 
history, upon which I have no time to enlarge. 

******* 

Oct, 22. — We left Deerfield on a fine morning, 
and extended our ride thirty-eight miles, to Spring- 

* The house of public worship, in whi<i» Mr. VVilUaras used t© 
preach, is stiU staodijjg ixj i^eerfielfll, 



TOHR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBLC, 40i> 

field. We followed the Deerfield mountain — cross- 
ed the fatal, bloody, (or, as it is now called, muddy) 
brook, where, on the 12th of September, 1675, 
Captain Lathrop, with almost his whole company, 
of ninety or an hundred young men, the flower of 
that region, was cut off by the Indians, who, to the 
number of seven or eight hundred, attacked them 
by surprize, when, as is said, most of the party 
were engaged in gathering grapes. 

We rode down to the ferry at Sunderland, to ob- 
tain a good view of the Sugar Loaf Mountain, which 
is so well described hy Mr. Hitchcock,* that I have 
scarcely occasion to remark, that it is composed of 
conglomerate rock, and that the mountain back of 
it, is trap. 

W^e crossed through Hatfield, over to Hadley, 
and thence into Northampton, where w^e dined. — 
It is hardly necessary to say any thing of these 
scenes, which are so luxuriant, and so well known, 
that their beauty is quite proverbial. 

Hatfield and Hadley are neat and venerable pla- 
ces, and Northampton is one of the finest inland 
(owns in America. 

The great bends of the river here — the bold 
scenery of Mount Holyoke, and Mount Tom, and 
the rich and grand landscape, from their summits, 
particularly from the former, have been often dc- 
.-icribed, and can hardly be exaggerated. 

♦American Journal of Seience. 

35 



406 TOUll BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC* 

At West Springfield, we called on the venerable 
Dr. Lathrop, now almost eighty-eight years old ; he 
will complete that age, he informed us, on the last 
day of this month. His sight is almost extinct, but 
his other faculties appear unimpaired. He is erect 
and vigorous, walks well, and his features are not in- 
jured ; his head is covered with fine white locks, 
and his whole appearance is very interesting. He 
is recently relieved from public duty by a colleague 5 
and, after about sixty years of the most useful la- 
bours as a preacher, is well entitled to rest ; as a 
writer of sermons,* he has been excelled by few in 
this country. 

Oct. 23. — We passed the last night at Spring- 
field, which, in beauty, hardly yields to any town 
on the river. In the morning, I visited the United 
States armory, and was much gratified ; for order, 
neatness, and high excellence, in every department— 
under the able management of Colonel Lee, it mer- 
its the highest eulogium. 

We proceeded through Long Meadow to En- 
field, and, at the bridge, on the eastern side, I was 
pleased to observe the sand stone rocks, filled with 
the remains of vegetables, bituminized and car- 
bonized, and affording one indication, among many, 
of a region containing coal. This, and the contigu- 
ous places, should be more attentively examined. 

* Allnsion i.s liprc, of course, made lo the volumes of serniofls, 
which kf. has published. 



JUHsoma 



TOUR BETV/EEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 407 

Through Windsor, we proceeded to Hartford, 
and, arriving there before evening, almost five weeks 
from the time of our departure, found those in health 
and prosperity, who vi^ere most interesting to us ; 
and, in the retrospect, perceived much cause for 
satisfaction, and still more for gratitude, that, in trav- 
elling nearly twelve hundred miles, not one disaster, 
nor one serious disappointment, had given us occa- 
sion to regret the undertaking. 



REMARK. 

I have said very little of the public houses and 
accommodations, on the journey. Should this b© 
thought a deficiency, it is easily supplied ; for, we 
found them, almost without exception, so comforta- 
ble, quiet, and agreeable, that we had neither occa- 
sion, nor inclination to find fault. 

Great civility, and a disposition to please their 
guests, were generally conspicuous at the inns; 
almost every where, when we wished it, we found 
a private parlour and a separate table, and rarely, 
did we hear any profane or coarse language, or ob- 
serve any rude and boisterous deportment 



